Blast deflector recommendations

The Rocketry Forum

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

apastuszak

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2011
Messages
48
Reaction score
0
I need to buy a launch rod and blast deflector for a PortaPad II. A browse through the forum has shown me that a trip to home depot can solve my launch rod needs. But what about a blast deflector? What can I use that's readily available at a local store?
 
Ceramic tile
Terracotta pots (not a plastic look alike :wink:)
Coffee can cut in half and folded (rod goes through a hole made at the fold - crude picture \__/|\__/ )
 
Makes me want to grout some ceramic tile to a piece of plywood, add 4 legs to it and make a custom launch pad with a permanent built in blast deflector.
 
I need to buy a launch rod and blast deflector for a PortaPad II. A browse through the forum has shown me that a trip to home depot can solve my launch rod needs. But what about a blast deflector? What can I use that's readily available at a local store?

Go to the electrical supplies aisle and get you a steel box cover... it's a roughly 4x4 inch square steel plate with rounded corners... one corner will have a slightly elongated hole and the other will have a slotted hole that opens to the edge of the plate, so that the cover can be slid back out of the way by simply loosening both screws and then swiveling the plate out of the way around the captured screw.

Slide the plate down directly over your launch rod (through the elongated but closed hole-- the open hole will look something like a hook). This will tilt the plate at a slight angle to your rod and provides a dandy blast deflector. Cost is approximately $1 or so...

I DID see some blue drain covers that looked almost identical to Estes blast deflectors (with a hole in the center) over in the plumbing aisle... the center hole is "dimpled in" for a tapered-head screw. I'm not sure what material they're made of though-- avoid aluminum as motor blast will melt them, or very thin metal.

https://www.lowes.com/pd_113199-539...rentURL=?Ntt=electrical+box+covers&facetInfo=

https://www.lowes.com/pd_253213-138...&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=drain+covers&facetInfo=

later and good luck! OL JR :)
 
+1 on the steel box covers. Absolutely the cheapest way to buy a small sheet of steel (thanks to volume). I'm still using round ones I bought years (decades?) ago for LPR launches on a Big Foot launch pad (OK, now I'm REALLY dating some of my ground support equipment...). I did drill a hole in the middle of these. They last through a surprising number of launches, which is why I'm still using that old stash. Much better than the old Estes deflector.
 
while it is very true a 16ga Steel 1900 box cover (4" X 4" square) is a pretty good and inexpensive jet deflector. they Do Rust up badly after a very short while.
4" Square ceramic tiles are another inexpensive way to go... If your looking to make something that will hold up for a very long time combine the two with the ceramic tile contact cemented to the predrilled steel 1900 box cover. This combination will out last your porta-pad:)

Personally I've replaced all these type of cheap deflectors with 16ga Stainless steel deflectors. They out last all other deflectors and clean up with a little fantastic cleaner followed by a wipe down with WD-40. I have Stainless deflectors I've been using since the mid 1970's that look pretty much like they did brand new.
 
while it is very true a 16ga Steel 1900 box cover (4" X 4" square) is a pretty good and inexpensive jet deflector. they Do Rust up badly after a very short while.
4" Square ceramic tiles are another inexpensive way to go... If your looking to make something that will hold up for a very long time combine the two with the ceramic tile contact cemented to the predrilled steel 1900 box cover. This combination will out last your porta-pad:)

Personally I've replaced all these type of cheap deflectors with 16ga Stainless steel deflectors. They out last all other deflectors and clean up with a little fantastic cleaner followed by a wipe down with WD-40. I have Stainless deflectors I've been using since the mid 1970's that look pretty much like they did brand new.

This is a good point, but if one is looking for a "ready made" solution (which the OP seems to be inferring) then making a stainless deflector might be more than he wants to mess with... course it's not hard; just get an appropriately sized piece of stainless steel in a square or round shape, cut the corners off the square part (to eliminate the risk of snagging or poking clothes and body parts while working at or transporting the pad, hooking up the rocket, etc.) and then drilling a hole to go over the launch rod.

At 59 cents a piece, though, the work is done for you with a box cover... cheap enough to replace once a year... ignitors probably cost more than that! BUT, if you're looking for a more permanent solution, then yeah a stainless deflector is the way to go... or glue a tile to a box cover, which would be a pretty easy thing to do, compared with cutting corners off a stainless piece and drilling it to fit over a rod...

By the way, when it comes to rods, the OP mentioned "obtaining them from the local big box hardware store" (or to that effect) and I would caution the OP NOT to buy the mild steel rods available at the local stores... they will RAPIDLY rust when exposed to the hot, corrosive compounds present in rocket exhaust, and a rusty rod will give you no end of problems... While "servicing" rods is certainly an option, by sanding off rust, either with sandpaper or a scotch-brite pad, and attempting to minimize and prevent rust by applying various materials like WD-40, wax, etc... it's basically a losing battle.

A FAR better choice is to go to your local Fastenal store (or other industrial supply) and get a STAINLESS STEEL launch rod. I got a stainless assortment of rods, 1/8, 3/16, and 1/4 rods, in 3, 5, and 6 foot lengths.

Stainless rods won't corrode and are easier to clean than mild steel rods, which is all that's available from the local indoor lumberyard type stores.

Best of luck! OL JR :)
 
This is a good point, but if one is looking for a "ready made" solution (which the OP seems to be inferring) then making a stainless deflector might be more than he wants to mess with... course it's not hard; just get an appropriately sized piece of stainless steel in a square or round shape, cut the corners off the square part (to eliminate the risk of snagging or poking clothes and body parts while working at or transporting the pad, hooking up the rocket, etc.) and then drilling a hole to go over the launch rod.

At 59 cents a piece, though, the work is done for you with a box cover... cheap enough to replace once a year... ignitors probably cost more than that! BUT, if you're looking for a more permanent solution, then yeah a stainless deflector is the way to go... or glue a tile to a box cover, which would be a pretty easy thing to do, compared with cutting corners off a stainless piece and drilling it to fit over a rod...

By the way, when it comes to rods, the OP mentioned "obtaining them from the local big box hardware store" (or to that effect) and I would caution the OP NOT to buy the mild steel rods available at the local stores... they will RAPIDLY rust when exposed to the hot, corrosive compounds present in rocket exhaust, and a rusty rod will give you no end of problems... While "servicing" rods is certainly an option, by sanding off rust, either with sandpaper or a scotch-brite pad, and attempting to minimize and prevent rust by applying various materials like WD-40, wax, etc... it's basically a losing battle.

A FAR better choice is to go to your local Fastenal store (or other industrial supply) and get a STAINLESS STEEL launch rod. I got a stainless assortment of rods, 1/8, 3/16, and 1/4 rods, in 3, 5, and 6 foot lengths.

Stainless rods won't corrode and are easier to clean than mild steel rods, which is all that's available from the local indoor lumberyard type stores.

Best of luck! OL JR :)


Actually JR:
It's even easier then that. McMaster-Carr, several Industrial supply places and Better Hardware Stores offer 1/4"ID x 3.0" OD x .080" thick Larger Diameter Flat washers (we in industry call them Fender Washers).
Best news is we have a choice! #911525A237 is 316 stainless packaged individually @ 2.88each.
or #90313A309 same size in 18/8 (304 series) Stainless in a 5pk for 8.92. Don't need to drill or do anything other then slip it onto the launch rod;)
As mentioned earlier with either one above you'll never have to replace the deflector (Unless you CATO a big APCP over it. Might bend it a bit).. Couple example photos below.

+1 on Stainless Launch rods also, I'm still using the 1/8" and 3/16" diameter 304 stainless launch rods I purchased in the very early 80's. McMaster is a decent source for them also.

Blast Deflectors-h_.25in x 3.0in x 12ga St Stl Fender Washers - McMaster#90313A309 (1.71ea)_06-0.jpg

Blast Deflectors-i_16ga 304 Stainless 6in Sq.Deflector Curv_08-03-13.JPG
 
Thank you everyone for all the great suggestions!

I'm planning a model rocket launch for a Boy Scout camping trip that happens in 3 weeks.

I was originally just going to buy an Estes 1/8" launch rod and blast deflector off of eBay, but the price of those two together was more than a new Porta Pad II.

Here's what I did in the short term.

Went to Home Depot and was able to purchase a 1/8" x 36" steel rod and a 3/16" x 36" zinc coated steel rod.

I also bought some 1/2" PVC one end cap, one threaded end and a threaded cap, and made a 3' launch rod holder.

I also bought 3 6" x 6" floor tiles and drilled a 3/16" hole in the middle of it using a tile bit to use as a blast deflector.

This gets me by for the launch.

My long term plans are to buy a 1/8"x36", 3/16"x36" and 1/4"x48" stainless steel rods, and some decent stainless steel blast deflectors.

Thanks again everyone!
 
Another inexpensive method is cutoff wheels from Harbor Freight. We use these on our low power pads. They can be cleaned with a wire brush if needed and not as fragile as tile.

Steve G

cutoff wheels.jpg
 
I use a 10" Stainless Steel Camping Style Frying Pan from one of my Camping Cook Sets. I just cut a square Hole in it to be able to slide it over my Rail.
 
Last edited:
Another inexpensive method is cutoff wheels from Harbor Freight. We use these on our low power pads. They can be cleaned with a wire brush if needed and not as fragile as tile.

Steve G

That's an interesting idea... and a new one... Not seen that one before... :)

Later! OL JR :)
 
Another inexpensive method is cutoff wheels from Harbor Freight. We use these on our low power pads. They can be cleaned with a wire brush if needed and not as fragile as tile.

Steve G

Neat Idea! they should stand up to the shock & heat pretty well. do you add something to reduce the hole size?
 
I use a 10" Stainles Steel Camping Style Frying Pan from one of my Camping Cook Sets. I just cut a square Hole in it to be able to slide it over my Rail.

This is a nice Idea Also! Are you installing the Pan with the side flanges Up to re-direct the exhaust up and away for the Ground? if so an Excellent Idea!
 
Another inexpensive method is cutoff wheels from Harbor Freight. We use these on our low power pads. They can be cleaned with a wire brush if needed and not as fragile as tile.

Steve G

Sounds like something I need to look into. I've been gluing tile to 3/8" plywood and drilling a hole through the center for our LPR. They run about $0.25 each when I'm all done and last a whole season.
 
For those interested here are two photos of the launch pad. The blast shield sits on a stalk made from phenolic tubing which is glued to a 3 inch diameter plywood disc. The disc and the base rotate to adjust the angle both tightened by wing nuts.

Steve G

068-NEFAR-May-10-2014.jpg

079-NEFAR-6-14-2014.jpg
 
One of my clubs uses cutoff wheels for LPR and MPR. The other uses old circular saw blades. The blades can be a little dangerous, though.
 
I had a bunch made up at a welding shop.
They cut squards out of 1/8" std. plate steel, spot welding in roll pins.
Varied in sized for 1/8", 3/16" & 1/4" rods.
Rounded corners, no sharp edges.
Cost average was $4
Unfortunately, I didn't get the bucket full of plates out of house before they locked me out.
 
as a teenager we used rain gutter downspout elbows for blast deflectors


I've used 3" 90* bend exhaust pipe. Cut across a bend to make an elongated hole for the big ones. I know most are looking up when a rocket goes off but they miss the cool smoke ring you get :)
 
as a teenager we used rain gutter downspout elbows for blast deflectors

Those will melt/burn through pretty fast if they're light aluminum.

I use a stove pipe exhaust elbow joint ($4-5 bucks a few years ago) attached with a hose clamp.
 
I got the idea to use ceramic tile while browsing Home Depot years ago, and I cannot imagine ever using metal blast deflectors again. Avoiding clip shorting is a big plus for me, and the tile is cheap. Cut-off wheels would be similar, I suppose, but they are a bit more expensive. But never again will I use steel.
 
I got the idea to use ceramic tile while browsing Home Depot years ago, and I cannot imagine ever using metal blast deflectors again. Avoiding clip shorting is a big plus for me, and the tile is cheap. Cut-off wheels would be similar, I suppose, but they are a bit more expensive. But never again will I use steel.

I completely agree! We use 4x4 tile glued to 3/8 plywood as deflectors on all of our club LPR pads. At about $0.25 each, you can't beat them. Most last a season, and some two.
 
I use 6x6 tiles with a couple of strips of duct tape on the back to pad them a bit in the range box.
 
I completely agree! We use 4x4 tile glued to 3/8 plywood as deflectors on all of our club LPR pads. At about $0.25 each, you can't beat them. Most last a season, and some two.

I bought a bunch of tile for blast deflectors from the clearance rack at Lowes for $0.10 a few years ago. Clearance racks can be fun... :)
 
+1 on the Harbor Freight cutoff wheels. They also have a package of 5 7" Metal Grinding wheels that are 1/4" thick that we have started to use for mid-highpower deflectors for about $10.
So far so good.

https://www.harborfreight.com/pack-...um-oxide-grinding-wheels-for-metal-90336.html
+1 more on cutoff wheels. Home Depot has the same thing for just over $2 each:

14215884765_5669810955_c.jpg
 
The next time you open a tin can, save the top. Drill a 3/16 or 1/4 inch hole off-center. Take a motor casing and sand the ejection end at an angle. File, sand or grind the sharp edge off of the tin can lid. Drop the motor casing on the rod angle side up. Drop the tin can lid on the rod. Cost: ~15 minutes. Mine have lasted for over two years.
 
Back
Top