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4" diameter coupler -- G10, "old school" green, 9"+

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dixontj93060

dixontj93060

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I need to get my Wildman Extenze project completed before Midwest Power so gathering parts. I have a few sections of 4" G10 fiberglass airframe but I am lacking a coupler. I really do not want to use G12 as these pieces will have a number of holes and I want them clean and crisp (which is so hard with G12). Of course, most vendors now are only carrying G12, thus my request... Does anyone out there have a section of G10 coupler that is 9" or more that they'd be willing to part with? If so, PM me with your terms. I also have various sizes of FG available if you are looking to trade, or someone that reads this needs a particular "short section."
 
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dixontj93060 said:
I need to get my Wildman Extenze project completed before Midwest Power so gathering parts. I have a few sections of 4" G10 fiberglass airframe but I am lacking a coupler. I really do not want to use G12 as these pieces will have a number of holes and I want them clean and crisp (which is so hard with G12). Of course, most vendors now are only carrying G12, thus my request... Does anyone out there have a section of G10 coupler that is 9" or more that they'd be willing to part with? If so, PM me with your terms. I also have various sizes of FG available if you are looking to trade, or someone that reads this needs a particular "short section."
Click to expand...

Drill G12 at high speed and your issues will disappear - ~3,000rpm.
 
dixontj93060 said:
I'm drilling as fast as my drill will go. Are you suggesting a special tool?
Click to expand...

What I have found to work is to set up a some type of hard backing when drilling so you can produce shear. For instance in the case of an airframe you can use a sacrificial coupler (if you have extra FG couplers sitting around of the right size, which is seldom) and when the drill bit goes through it shears the fibers from the airframe. With the case of a coupler it is worse because you seldom ever have something available to provide a tight fit. I have been thinking about buying some PVC pieces and trying to set up some type of jig to see if I could get consistent shear, but have not gotten around to it. Boy I miss G10...
 
dixontj93060 said:
What I have found to work is to set up a some type of hard backing when drilling so you can produce shear. For instance in the case of an airframe you can use a sacrificial coupler (if you have extra FG couplers sitting around of the right size, which is seldom) and when the drill bit goes through it shears the fibers from the airframe. With the case of a coupler it is worse because you seldom ever have something available to provide a tight fit. I have been thinking about buying some PVC pieces and trying to set up some type of jig to see if I could get consistent shear, but have not gotten around to it. Boy I miss G10...
Click to expand...

Yeah, but what it gave us in workability, it gave up in durability - remember those lengthwise splits that grew and grew?

My POS Harbor Freight 8" drill press has adjustable speeds, the highest of which is 3070rpm. I try to avoid drilling the tube with a hand drill, because the drill can't even reach maximum speed before the bit bites into the material, and the hole ends up being drilled at 100rpm.

-S (who will spend the evening trying to cleanly drill 36 pin holes through 3/8" wall FWFG with a hand drill putting together his Airfest motor, before getting on the road at midnight and heading to Argonia to launch at 10am tomorrow morning).
 
prophecy said:
Yeah, but what it gave us in workability, it gave up in durability - remember those lengthwise splits that grew and grew?

My POS Harbor Freight 8" drill press has adjustable speeds, the highest of which is 3070rpm. I try to avoid drilling the tube with a hand drill, because the drill can't even reach maximum speed before the bit bites into the material, and the hole ends up being drilled at 100rpm.

-S (who will spend the evening trying to cleanly drill 36 pin holes through 3/8" wall FWFG with a hand drill putting together his Airfest motor, before getting on the road at midnight and heading to Argonia to launch at 10am tomorrow morning).
Click to expand...

OK, yes, my father-in-law has an ancient drill press but not comfortable with its accuracy. I used to have one, but my wife sold it in a garage sale as we were getting ready to leave Texas. I can tell you the two Mexican gentleman that showed up at that garage sale were ecstatic as my wife sold a bunch if my tools for way too cheap. Unfortunately I was traveling for work when she did so :(.
 
The only way to drill any spiral wound tubing correctly would be: with an end mill type of bit.
Regular drill bits just push the filaments out of the way and splinter them.

I have a coupler you might be able to use.
I'm not sure of the fit as; it doesn't fit PML tubing....the first gen PR tubing did match them.
This one does not but, haven't checked it to current tubing specs.

JD
 
JDcluster said:
The only way to drill any spiral wound tubing correctly would be: with an end mill type of bit.
Regular drill bits just push the filaments out of the way and splinter them.

I have a coupler you might be able to use.
I'm not sure of the fit as; it doesn't fit PML tubing....the first gen PR tubing did match them.
This one does not but, haven't checked it to current tubing specs.

JD
Click to expand...

I have a G10 coupler as well that is the "old dimension." It's meant to fit Hawk tubing, which is what I am using this coupler for. I had machined it down a tad though and now it fits either tubing.
 
JDcluster said:
The only way to drill any spiral wound tubing correctly would be: with an end mill type of bit.
Regular drill bits just push the filaments out of the way and splinter them.
Click to expand...

I have tried end mill bits with only marginally better success. I think prophecy is right, you just can't keep up the speed with a hand drill as it bites in.

JDcluster said:
I have a coupler you might be able to use.
I'm not sure of the fit as; it doesn't fit PML tubing....the first gen PR tubing did match them.
This one does not but, haven't checked it to current tubing specs.

JD
Click to expand...

PR used to sell G10 in a normal 4" size, i.e., 3.9" ID and 4.025" OD, and also a 4" thick tube which was 3.9" ID and 4.15" OD. If that is what you are referring to, I need to have a coupler for the smaller of the two.

Actually my comment above is a stupid--the coupler OD would be the same size, so I'm not getting the differing sizes you and Dan are referring to?
 
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