swatkat
Down these mean skies, a kat must fly!
Ahhh OK. A co-worker and fellow gun enthusiast lives out that way as well by the golf course. He also has your problem. I'm in a different portion of the unincorporated area.
GUNS & ROCKETS
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swatkat
Down these mean skies, a kat must fly!
How did you make out, did you find any Mausers? I just found a beauty, and it is an all original un-issued M48BO (all matching numbers). Here is the link to the sale:
https://forums.thecmp.org/showthread.php?t=149986
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That is a good find and price. They were in the $500.00 range at a local gun show here in Fl.
Doh! Yeah, I bought it... Love the Yugoslavian Mausers. They are not the most accurate rifles, but they can still be found in like-new condition from time to time.
I gave $350 for the last one I had. After I sold it, the gentleman who bought it converted it to some Serbian war sniper rifle or some such... drilled the pristine receiver and all. This rifle should help me forget that one.
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Well I spent a lot of time looking down barrels that day. I found a lot of Yugo's (M24 and M48's) But they were all over priced around $350-$500 for a gun that did not have a clean bore.
I did however find a K98 that was restamped with the Yugo crest and has the full length receiver for $250.00. I bought and its in the shop right now, they are checking the headspacing. The barrel has some errosion from corrosive ammo, but it has really sharp rifling. I am going to test the accuracy as soon as I get it back and over the years I plan on changing the barrel, bedding the receiver floating the barrel and adding a timney trigger.
All of this will not effect the outside or look of the gun which is what I want.
USAFmissileer
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Have two pristine M-48s that my dad bought me from Mitchell's Mausers. Matching numbers and came with bayonets and original leather. Nice collectables
Launching rockets (or missiles in my case) is so easy a chimp could do it. Read a step, do a step, eat a banana.
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Launching rockets (or missiles in my case) is so easy a chimp could do it. Read a step, do a step, eat a banana.
Sent from my iPad Air using Rocketry Forum.
Glad you found a Mauser to play with... it is a shame that 8mm ammunition is so scarce these days (compared to other popular ammo types in the same class). Pics?
legranddudu
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What about "Swedish Mauser"? Here in Germany there are really popular for their legendary precision, much more than Portugese or Brasilian Mauser's.
Can you find them in the US too?
Can you find them in the US too?
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What is your preferred model of Swedish Mauser? There are a number of models available in the USA, but I'm not sure what would be the best to own...
TopRamen
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I had a 1918 Carl Gustav Mauser in 6.5x55 and loved it! Sadly it too was one of those that I sold or traded a long time ago.
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Very nice example, love the Mauser rifles.
legranddudu
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thx for the link. assuming they are genuine and prestine conditions, this is VERY CHEAP, I would dream of it here in Germany. Eventually shooters in US do not really know the real precision potential of the swedish Mausers, explaining the low market price.
Nowdays you will even find them with brand new modern shafts and systems, just keeping the barrel. they are terribly precise....
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I bought one from them. It was in pretty good condition with exception of the stock having some scratches, but considering it's age. It is a very fine shooter!
TopRamen
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I went to a Gun Shop today that is pretty well known, and where I've usually been treated pretty well, and in a Profesional Manner, but they had hired Help for the Hunting Season Rush, and the Help was not knowledgeable about the Optic that I was interested in, but already knew everything there was to know about it.
I get that the Folks that run the Place are busy out Huntin', and good for them, I hope they get one, but if you are going to hire Folks to Work in a Gunshop, atleast teach them the Basics of stuff like Light Transmission and Exit Pupils. Some Knowledge of Reticle Designs and what each one is Appropriate for goes a long way too, and should be Common Sense for any Shooter.
Standing there saying "I don't know", indicates to me that the Optic that you are Holding has probably been Dropped on the Floor.
I get that the Folks that run the Place are busy out Huntin', and good for them, I hope they get one, but if you are going to hire Folks to Work in a Gunshop, atleast teach them the Basics of stuff like Light Transmission and Exit Pupils. Some Knowledge of Reticle Designs and what each one is Appropriate for goes a long way too, and should be Common Sense for any Shooter.
Standing there saying "I don't know", indicates to me that the Optic that you are Holding has probably been Dropped on the Floor.
TopRamen
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Tarasdad
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There are three rifles I passed by that I've always regretted. The first was a near-pristine 1903A3 that I passed on because I was saving the money for something else. The second was a Kar.98k that was in about 65% on the wood, 60% on the metal but had a spotless bore. I was looking for one that was in a bit better condition, silly me. The last was a never issued Czech VZ-24, arguably the best of the Mausers. That one I simply had to walk away from because I didn't have quite enough cash on me. I can't begin to count the number of US M1917 rifles, SMLE's, Mosin-Nagants and others I've walked right by without ever looking twice at them.
I have had the pleasure of owning some magnificent rifles over the years. M-1 Garand, M-1 Carbine, M-1A, Schmidt-Rubin, SMLE (finally did get one), Colt Match H-BAR to name a few. I've also owned some real stinkers, such as the Norinco SKS that we picked up at a gun show for $59. Most inaccurate rifle I ever had the displeasure to shoot. Also liked to rust as soon as you turned your back on it, despite just having been cleaned and never using corrosive ammo!
That's all in the past now. All I have are a couple of .22 rifles - and no ammo to shoot. *sigh*
I have had the pleasure of owning some magnificent rifles over the years. M-1 Garand, M-1 Carbine, M-1A, Schmidt-Rubin, SMLE (finally did get one), Colt Match H-BAR to name a few. I've also owned some real stinkers, such as the Norinco SKS that we picked up at a gun show for $59. Most inaccurate rifle I ever had the displeasure to shoot. Also liked to rust as soon as you turned your back on it, despite just having been cleaned and never using corrosive ammo!
That's all in the past now. All I have are a couple of .22 rifles - and no ammo to shoot. *sigh*
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I got my K98k back and the gunsmith said it has the best head spacing on a Mauser he has ever seen. So I feel a lot better about putting some rounds down range. On Nov 11th me and my wife are going shooting for her birthday so I bought 80 rounds that I will send downrange.
If anyone needs more pictures or would like more pictures lets me know.
If anyone needs more pictures or would like more pictures lets me know.
I bought my first gun this year. I'd been shooting at ranges for a few years on borrowed equipment (mostly a 9mm and a .40), and finally made the leap to buy my own. Picked up a new Taurus Judge as a nightstand gun/fishing trip gun. Liking it so far. It feels good with the 410 slugs at the range. The 45LC, I don't enjoy as much.
What kind of loads were you shooting? Have you tried cowboy loads? Probably less recoil than a .357
Walldiver7
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Glad to see this thread come up. I have been a shooter/hunter for a life time. I got into reloading about 30 years back... and now that I'm into hp rocketry I can't help but notice all the ballistic similarities (and differences)! I measure all my ejection charges in grains.... 
The safe handling of powder protocols I learned as a reloader definitely crossed over into rocketry.
The safe handling of powder protocols I learned as a reloader definitely crossed over into rocketry.
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Anyone have any advice on polishing my K98? The butt plate is in desperate need and I may take off the blue from the bolt and bolt handle.
I also want to lightly sand the stock to get rid of some minor scratches. After I do that what should I finish it with?
I also want to lightly sand the stock to get rid of some minor scratches. After I do that what should I finish it with?
Personally, I would leave it at it is. It gives it character and maintains its value.
TopRamen
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I've refinished a number of Stocks with Birchwood Casey Tru-oil. It's like a Beeswax Linseed Oil Mixture, and can be worked in by hand rubbing to a satin sheen or built up to a high luster.
Muaser Stocks often are well worn with deep Oil Stains or sometimes even soaked through with Cosmolene, so getting the Stock cleaned/dried out first is important. That took me nearly a Month on my Swedish.
Mister Clean in warm Water is good for lifting all that old Oil out.
If there are any Cartouches or Stamps/Markings in the Wood that you would like to keep, it's best to do it by cleaning it and drying it a few times instead of going at it with Sandpaper. The Wood would still be oily underneath anyway, and the Finish won't adhere and absorb properly.
I see you are in Arizona, so lucky you, Drying out the Stock should be easy.
Forgot to mention, a Hair Dryer is good to have too, because you can warm the Wood when it is Dry and it will leak the old Oil out. Do that first to get out as much as possible prior to beginning Cleaning.
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dave carver
....what hump?
+10 on the Birchwood Casey gun stock oil. Use it by itself. Don't Minwax stain, seal, fill. modify in any way. The TruOil brings out the colors of the wood like no other product. You really rub it in with your fingers, your fingers can feel if you've missed a spot and make sure the coating is uniformly applied. We actually had woodshops in our schools when my dad work there. He would collect abandoned boxes student's had made, most of the times there were flaws. I'd fix then use many coats, 8 or more. When dry between coats you buff it all down with 0000 steel wool, every time. The final finish will look so custom many will believe you had a stock made.
I know of a good stripper for old gunstocks, Spray On EasyOff Oven Cleaner. It water neutralizes and is much less caustic than a paint stripper. Test it in a inconspicuous spot just in case. Like Top said, let it dry. Let it dry every time it gets wet with water or oil. Time consuming but the results are gorgeous
I know of a good stripper for old gunstocks, Spray On EasyOff Oven Cleaner. It water neutralizes and is much less caustic than a paint stripper. Test it in a inconspicuous spot just in case. Like Top said, let it dry. Let it dry every time it gets wet with water or oil. Time consuming but the results are gorgeous
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