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9x18mm Makarov ammo is impossible to obtain now. Many shooters switched to other less popular calibers when the ammo famine hit just to be able to keep shooting.

Picked up an Umarex Makarov air pistol through Walmart over the Holidays. Nice shooter.

My Mom carries a Makarov.
Back when they were popular I even carried one for a couple years, and I gave her about 1000 Rounds of Ammo. She won't be running out anytime soon.
 
Try spending months working up loads for your favorite cartridge/rifle combo, get 'em shooting pretty darn sweet, then have to set shooting aside for a few years. When you get back to it, you find out they no longer make that particular powder, or your favorite bullet.

Frustrating.

Lucky us.. Its time to start working up new loads anyway since we live in CA where all lead will be outlawed for hunting in a couple of years
 
Took last Friday off from work and headed to a local range for some fun with long time friend and his dad. A bad day at the range beats a good day at work. :bangbang:

M&P15-22 (.22 LR)
M&P9 Compact
H&K HK45 with Surefire X300 Ultra

DSCN0113_1600x1200.jpg
 
I'll take the 1942 Winchester M1 Garand out today, and maybe the 8mm M48 BO or the Remington in 223 (un-decided). I'll have some back-ups like my Taurus 38 Special and my Mossberg M44 US(b)

I spent last weekend plus Monday and Tuesday in the hospital with pneumonia... I'm making up for lost time today!
 
Indeed! I drink the following flavor Kool-Aids:

- Colt
- Daniel Defense
- Heckler & Koch
- Smith & Wesson
- Ruger

Koolaid. :rofl:

Ruger
Thompson/Center
Browning
Remington
Winchester
Colt
Stevens/Savage

Though not necessarily in that order. :wink:

Currently accurizing another Ruger 10-22 for rimfire MS competition. :grin:
 
I am looking for some advice from TRF.

As I posted before I acquired a K98k with a full length receiver. It was re-stamped by Yugoslavia before 1950 and the stock and action share a common serial number but the bolt does not.

My issue is the cosmoline that continues to bleed out the stock. I have shot the gun a few times out in the hot desert and have kept the gun in the sun outside my house in order to bleed as much cosmoline out as I possibly can. I will then swiftly wipe it with a rag and even use mineral spirits to remove the cosmoline. I have spent probably 50 hours trying to get this thing dry.

Anyone have another method that would work? I am thinking about wrapping the stock in rags and keeping it in my trunk and each day wipe it down and do that for a week. If it helps the stock is not laminated it is a hardwood of some sort.

Also my front barrel band is really, really tight. I always have to use a center punch and a hammer to take it off. Would you sand the inside of the band? Or just leave it alone?
 
I am looking for some advice from TRF.

As I posted before I acquired a K98k with a full length receiver. It was re-stamped by Yugoslavia before 1950 and the stock and action share a common serial number but the bolt does not.

My issue is the cosmoline that continues to bleed out the stock. I have shot the gun a few times out in the hot desert and have kept the gun in the sun outside my house in order to bleed as much cosmoline out as I possibly can. I will then swiftly wipe it with a rag and even use mineral spirits to remove the cosmoline. I have spent probably 50 hours trying to get this thing dry.

Anyone have another method that would work? I am thinking about wrapping the stock in rags and keeping it in my trunk and each day wipe it down and do that for a week. If it helps the stock is not laminated it is a hardwood of some sort.

Also my front barrel band is really, really tight. I always have to use a center punch and a hammer to take it off. Would you sand the inside of the band? Or just leave it alone?

Heat. Lots and lots of heat. I see you also live in an arid, sandy place. I've had success with leaving everything in a closed metal trash bin (Home Cheapo and Lowers around her still sell 'em in metal). As you mentioned for the trunk trick, wrap it up in rags, set it in the can, close 'er up and set it outside. Preferably in August. Wipe down and replace rags periodically.

I once invested in a Scünci Steamer, and it kind of works, for spot treatment, but it doesn't put out enough steam to really heat the whole works up enough.

If you have access to a large enough vessel, the "traditional method" (i.e. what they used at the depot in preparation to issue the piece) is to dunk it in boiling water. Eventually, all of the cosmo melts off, and since oil doesn't mix with water, it floats up to the surface, sort of like rendering tallow... If you're equipped for hot salts bluing, the hot water tank would probably work. Or, if you want to shop for it ... Brownell's is your friend there.

In terms of faster than waiting, but cheaper than boiling, you have solvents. Diesel, kerosene, gasoline will all do a nice job. I've had good results with Ed's Red (one of the greatest cleaners of all time; the Googles will give you the recipe, and a few places sell it pre-mixed). Bluntly, though, no "non-toxic", "eco-friendly", "won't melt your face off" cleaners will do much against cosmo.

(Collect milsurps, I do)
 
Heat. Lots and lots of heat. I see you also live in an arid, sandy place. I've had success with leaving everything in a closed metal trash bin (Home Cheapo and Lowers around her still sell 'em in metal). As you mentioned for the trunk trick, wrap it up in rags, set it in the can, close 'er up and set it outside. Preferably in August. Wipe down and replace rags periodically.

I once invested in a Scünci Steamer, and it kind of works, for spot treatment, but it doesn't put out enough steam to really heat the whole works up enough.

If you have access to a large enough vessel, the "traditional method" (i.e. what they used at the depot in preparation to issue the piece) is to dunk it in boiling water. Eventually, all of the cosmo melts off, and since oil doesn't mix with water, it floats up to the surface, sort of like rendering tallow... If you're equipped for hot salts bluing, the hot water tank would probably work. Or, if you want to shop for it ... Brownell's is your friend there.

In terms of faster than waiting, but cheaper than boiling, you have solvents. Diesel, kerosene, gasoline will all do a nice job. I've had good results with Ed's Red (one of the greatest cleaners of all time; the Googles will give you the recipe, and a few places sell it pre-mixed). Bluntly, though, no "non-toxic", "eco-friendly", "won't melt your face off" cleaners will do much against cosmo.

(Collect milsurps, I do)

Thank you! I saw a trick on YouTube where the guy just ran the stock under hot water in his tube and would add soap to break up the cosmoline. Do you recommend this? If that works I may try that tomorrow.

If you're not trying to restore the Mosin to stock condition, you might consider an aftermarket replacement stock. ATI Blackhawk makes a nice Monte Carlo style stock (https://www.atigunstocks.com/mosin-nagant-monte-carlo-stock) and just about everyone on the planet has seen the Archangel futuristic/tacticool stock (https://www.archangelmanufacturing....le-stock-for-mosin-nagant-m1891-and-variants/).

The ATI model retails for about $90 while the Archangel goes for about $150 locally so YMMV.

I am refinishing a K98 and am attempting to keep it in as close to original as I can get. I need a new upper handguard as the one it came with is laminated and the rest of the stock is hardwood. I plan on removing cosmoline and then putting some linseed oil on the stock to give it some color. I also am trying to keep the coloration around the grip the same to retain its used look. I want to use it for hunting eventually and something I can pass down. I just want people to respect the history it had.
 
To get the grease out of the stock it can be buried in kitty litter and left for six months or longer.
The hotter the better, Yoda's trash can is good, wrap in black plastic in sun or in a hot garage. The litter can be brushed off and white residue removed with a little soap and water.
The grease had half a century to soak in it is going to take a while to come back out.

M
 
I have put stocks that were saturated with cosmoline in the oven at the lowest setting (~170 deg.) and wipe every 10-15 minutes. Placed a drip pan at the lowest point just to keep it off oven surface. It took anywhere from 1-2 hours depending how saturated.
 
In all of this, somehow I missed that the stock was specifically the problem, rather than the metal.

First, disregard what I said about Ed's Red, that stuff can be hard on the wood.

<disclaimer>Do not do the following if the rifle has any serious collector value. If it's a "shooter", proceed with caution, but depending on who you ask, we're straying into "bubba" territory

As for hot water and soap: be careful. This ultimately leads to the question of what's your plan with the wood? It sounds like this is a candidate for a gentle "restoration", rather than specifically trying to keep it all original. In that case, the hot water and soap works. You can actually stick the pieces in the dishwasher and run it, although, obviously, if there's too much cosmo left, this can be bad for the drain. Sounds like you're not in that situation, though.

Another option is to spray it all down with oven cleaner, stick it in a black trash bag, and let sit for a while... Then hose it off, and, viola, you have a bare stock.

Both of these options are risky, though, 'cause they will raise the grain, and they tend to strip *everything* out of the wood, i.e. break out your linseed oil, Tru-Oil, or wood finish of your choice.

</disclaimer>

If you want to keep the stock as original as possible, go with MClark's suggestion, and bury it in kitty litter in the trash can.

Good luck!
 
So due to my limited resources I have wrapped the stock in some rags and tightened it down with some blue tape. Then I placed in my outside closet.

I am going to check it in a few days as its not supposed to get to warm today. For now I have to turn my focus to my school studies with an exam I have today. Thanks for the help and I will report back in a week or two.
 
This is a build of a "fake" or prop gun, but it would be interesting to build an actual, functioning, firearm.

[video=youtube;QWiqr-lwYA0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWiqr-lwYA0[/video]

Adam Savage's One Day Builds: Barbarella's Space Rifle
 
https://reason.com/blog/2015/02/25/atf-tries-to-ban-common-rifle-ammo-as-ar It's quite telling that the same agency who hates rocketry also hates the Second amendment and is relentless in its quests to infringe upon our Liberty. This ain't another one of my jokes either!

The proposed ban on SS109/M855/XM855 (aka green tip) is just a smoke screen/stepping stone to ban other ammo deemed &#8220;evil&#8221; by the BATFE. Even though green tip does have a steel core, the round would likely go in and out of a soft target with no tumble or round break up. Polymer tip .223/5.56 that is designed for varmint hunting would do a hell of a lot more damage to soft tissue. Any proposed ban should be based on facts.
 
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So it snowed heavy here in North Alabama on Wednesday the 25th, the heaviest in recent memory. The following day we had 6.5" to 8" that shut down many roads and kept me home from work... Bummer! What's a guy to do...? I love the sound of the .223 "crack" echoing through the woods.

[video=youtube;f6aNcAjADOk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6aNcAjADOk[/video]
 
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M855 is the stuff I stocked up on a while back because it is dirt cheap. Maybe it'll be desirable now and I can trade it for more ammo.
Almost any 5.56 ammo will go through soft body armor.
 
M855 is the stuff I stocked up on a while back because it is dirt cheap. Maybe it'll be desirable now and I can trade it for more ammo.
Almost any 5.56 ammo will go through soft body armor.

Exactly. And this edict will do absolutely nothing to stop the criminally insane from committing acts of mayhem because it is not aimed at them. It's aimed at law abiding citizens to in order to implement a Police state as opposed to the Free state codified and enshrined in the Second amendment. There's no mystery here.
 
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