WildMan Sport build instructions thread.

Wow!:y:

OK....I promise I will not use the can foam.

Thanks for the responses guys.
Ed

Jmhepworth said:

I use Aeropack retainers on all my high power rockets. But I no longer buy the whole thing. It's less expensive to just get the part that goes on the rocket and reuse the screw on part. And I also sprung for the extra cost of having my name and Tripoli number engraved.

Joe

Click to expand...

What do you use to attach the retainer to fiberglass? Can we just use regular epoxy, or does it have to be JB Weld?

JB. We got the big package. It lasts a long time.

Joe


Sent from my iPad using Rocketry Forum

Jmhepworth said:

JB. We got the big package. It lasts a long time.

Joe


Sent from my iPad using Rocketry Forum

Click to expand...

Ugh. Sorry... Which kind of JB, there's like 6 different kinds for sale at Menard's

Original, cold weld, steel reinforced.


Sent from my iPad using Rocketry Forum

Jmhepworth said:

Original, cold weld, steel reinforced.


Sent from my iPad using Rocketry Forum

Click to expand...

Thanks

To be perfectly honest with you, on a small project like this, I have used 5-10-15 minute epoxy to install motor retainers.

There isn't enough heat sink in small motors to really effect the strength of the bond. When you get into bigger sizes, yes it becomes a factor.

If you plan on building larger rockets as times goes on, it would be worth your while to get some.

Every where has it for 4-5 bucks & it will last a loooooong time.


Others opinion may vary.....just mine based on personal experience .

blackjack2564 said:

Final assembly, attach shock cord to Y-harness and NC.

Tie a small loop about 2-3 ft from NC for chute protector and attach parachute.

Done.

View attachment 182196

Click to expand...

Any chance you can do a closeup of how you attached the shock cord, or possibly point me to an appropriate thread on TRF?

I attached the shock-cord to the loop in nose cone with a bow-line [knot] and another bow-line to the Y-harness loop in the fin can.

You could use quick links or any knot of your choice.

The nomex protector is also tied on with a bowline, once again you can use a quick link or knot/tape of choice.

Same for chute. The important part is keeping it fairly close to nose cone, so it doesn't bang into the fin can and chip your paint.


There are some detailed close ups of my build,in the sticky at the top of high power. " How to build a Darkstar"

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showt...-quot-Stock-quot-3IN-DARKSTAR-CJ-Step-By-Step

Click on # 62 and start there. Bigger rocket...dual deploy... but methods of attachment the same. Much simplified for the sport, but based on same principals.

Good luck with your build!

Another question... Is there any need to add weight in the nosecone to balance the Wildman Sport?

None is needed.

flight report?

KenRico said:

...
You can jam a 5g 29mm CTI H160 skid in on of these Sport rockets and still be under model rocket rules if there is no waiver in place.

Kenny

Click to expand...

Just an F.Y.I., if I am not mistaken all sparkies are now consider high power by both NAR and NFPA 1127 even if it is only a "F", or "G"
Is not an H by definition Hi-Powered?

kweaver said:

Just an F.Y.I., if I am not mistaken all sparkies are now consider high power by both NAR and NFPA 1127 even if it is only a "F", or "G"
Is not an H by definition Hi-Powered?

Click to expand...

Under 1500 grams and 125g of propellant, and no need for a waiver. HPR is irrelevant.

I may build one for the drag race at mid west power .

David,
Thanks for pointing out the change(December 2008 Duh!), on the high power definition and " Class 1 rockets".
I asked the question for clarification and enlightenment which I find this forum very useful for.
Thanks again!
This has come up at our launches a couple of times lately in regard to "F" and "G" sparkies, which is a different question from an FAA waiver.
14 CFR 101.22(a):

chris m said:

I may build one for the drag race at mid west power .

Click to expand...

I'll have mine ready for the race... Consider this your official challenge, Chris...

That only comes in to play when buying or flying them...... For those who are not already certified.

JD

kweaver said:

Just an F.Y.I., if I am not mistaken all sparkies are now consider high power by both NAR and NFPA 1127 even if it is only a "F", or "G"
Is not an H by definition Hi-Powered?

Click to expand...

Built mine today... Rail buttons tonight. Thanks for the help!!

what size nomex chute protector do you recommend for this?

6x6 is what Tim recommended for me.

Setting the nose cone loop was my first experience with 2 part foam. It floated the washer more than half way up the cone.

So I ripped it all out while the foam was a little soft and re-set the nut end of the loop with epoxy. Repoured the next morning. Belt and suspenders seemed to work okay.

Charles_McG said:

Setting the nose cone loop was my first experience with 2 part foam. It floated the washer more than half way up the cone.

So I ripped it all out while the foam was a little soft and re-set the nut end of the loop with epoxy. Repoured the next morning. Belt and suspenders seemed to work okay.

Click to expand...

Mine floated a little bit as well, but nothing too bad.

Charles_McG said:

Setting the nose cone loop was my first experience with 2 part foam. It floated the washer more than half way up the cone.

So I ripped it all out while the foam was a little soft and re-set the nut end of the loop with epoxy. Repoured the next morning. Belt and suspenders seemed to work okay.

Click to expand...

Did you drop the loop in first.....,spread the loop...then pour the foam in between?

Or the other way around? Just pouring first and dropping loop on top.

If you wait too long to pour the foam,it begins to rise almost immediately & that will cause issues.

Foam is easy to use, but there can be a bit of a learning curve, as with any new adhesive used for the first time.

I've never had any issue with stuff "floating"...wonder what happened in your cases.

It was my first time for foam. My boy's 2nd time. He built a Wildchild up at MTU with Bill B. He says they tacked down the end of the shock cord with epoxy before foaming over.

I put the loop/nut in first and poured over. I think the main problem was that we had too much foam. As it crawled out the top, it seemed to drag the cord with it. And a lot come out the top that we wiped away. (Alex said they did the same wipe-away- the-excess with the ViltKinder builds.) Even pulling off to the side, with each sweep, the cord rose up.

So now we know. Less foam. Pour quicker. Tack things down if in doubt.

I dropped mine in and poured over it. Barely any lift.
Now, as I'm tying on the shock cord, I've got my bowline knot, BUT, how do I keep the Kevlar from flaying at the end?

One last question. Maybe. Is any surface prep of the fiberglass needed before primer

Worked better this time. Next build I do like this, I'll probably do the external fillets first - some foam wept out of the leading edge of the fin slot.

CzTeacherMan said:

One last question. Maybe. Is any surface prep of the fiberglass needed before primer

Click to expand...

Sand lightly with fine paper. Lay it under a pyramid during the full moon. Run around the pyramid showing your full moon.

OK, maybe the last two aren't really necessary, but do you want to chance it? :dark:

Adrian

jd2cylman said:

Sand lightly with fine paper. Lay it under a pyramid during the full moon. Run around the pyramid showing your full moon.

OK, maybe the last two aren't really necessary, but do you want to chance it? :dark:

Adrian

Click to expand...

I was running around my house with a bare rump before I read the rest of your post. My wife didn't mind, but the neighbors were crying. Huh.
;-)