WildMan Sport build instructions thread.

The Rocketry Forum

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

blackjack2564

Crazy Jim's Gone Banana's
Joined
Jan 17, 2009
Messages
9,168
Reaction score
1,424
Location
Savannah Ga
Tim has added the Sport line to his growing arsenal of kits.

Prior to this, the DarkStar Lite & Drago were made of light weight, thin wall glass tubing.
Now with the addition of the "Sport " line, many other Favorites join the lightweight party.
These all are 54mm [2.1in] diameter airframes & 29mm motor mount.
All fly Extremely well on a variety of 24mm & 29mm motors.....and yes they can handle the biggest one you can stuff in it. H's & I's, as well as E's &F's & G's.

They can be built with 5-10-15 minute epoxy or even "foam" [2-part polyurethane which Tim sells].

"Most" will weigh a tad over 16oz. unless you make it a tank build.[Warrior has large fins..heavier] Only takes an hour or so to put together , let glue cure and later you are ready to fly!


Competitor Sport $79.99 DarkStar Sport $79.99
Intimidator Sport $79.99 Shape Shifter Sport $79.99
Vindicator Sport $79.99
Warrior Sport $79.99

Wildman Sport MSRP: $79.99 which is on sale for the month of August.
$49.99

Wild Thang Sport $79.99

They all build the same, other then some have split-fins [6] rather than [3].
All feature the new NC.

So let's build it!

Wildman Sport:

Black Fiberglass
Light weight tubing 54mm [2.1 in.] 22 in.long
New NC flawless. Lighter and smoother than a spiral wound. Paints & epoxies like a dream! NO mold lines!
29mm motor mount
Flies on 24mm & 29mm all the way up to 6g xl
Weight 1lb. built.
32in long built


1/16in plate G-10 fins
All tubing G-12 Spiral wound lite.

DSCN3345.jpg

DSCN3348.jpg
 
Last edited:
Needed to finish build:

Epoxy or foam.
60-80 grit sandpaper
12 ft shockcord. I used 1/4 in. Kevlar from Wildman . 1.5 foot cut for NC loop. [attach recovery gear] 2ft cut for recovery harness attached to motor mount. Rest for recovery & chute.
Parachute. I'm using a 12in. I will fly it on some larger motors and don't want to walk. Most should use a 18-24in. Topflight.

Rail buttons or launch lugs. I'll use buttons [1010 size]

Primer and paint of choice.

Wash or wipe out interior/exterior of fiberglass parts to remove dust & grime with plain water.

Fit fins into slots. Sand if needed for fit.
Sand root edge of fins up approximately 3/4 in.

DSCN3352.jpg


Sand on each side of fin slots approximately 1/2 in.

DSCN3354.jpg

Sand interior of rear airframe where centering ring will be glued and forward edge of slots where front CR will be glued.

DSCN3356.jpg
 
Last edited:
Sand exterior of motor mount tube.
Test fit centering rings to MM, sand to fit if needed.

Draw a line between fin slots for mounting rail buttons/lugs. I always forget this till after fins are mounted. Much simpler before.LOL

DSCN3360.jpg

File notch in top centering ring so shock cord clears when gluing to MM.

DSCN3363.jpg

Sand one side of both centering rings.

DSCN3369.jpg


Test assemble for fit of shock cord to MM. All looks good a drop of CA to hold in place. Put sanded side of CR facing rear.

DSCN3365.jpg
 
Thanks for the instructions, but how do I attach the nose cone and shock cord?
I am new to the world of fiberglass kits.
 
Sorry, been remodeling a bathroom the last 4 days.

I'll finish the instructions tonight.

You rough up the inside of near tip with sandpaper. Then cut a section [1.5-2ft] of cord for loop. Run this through a nut or washer. Drop that end into tip of NC & either foam or epoxy it in. If using epoxy, set NC in glass of water to dissipate heat generated by cure reaction. If foam, just enough for 3-4 inches....I will use left over from foaming fins in place. Got all the pics just have to post them tonight.

CJ
 
Are you going to post a "build thread" of the bathroom remodel?

s6

Well .....I thought about that for awhile..... trouble is, might have turned into a real "stinker":eye roll:


better be with sheet rock and red guard (or what ever it is called.... i forget)

Yes there was sheetrock, wallpaper removal, Piranha [wallpaper removal goo] mud, primer, paint [white]....But no Communists were involved [red guard] in this adventure.

BUT....VOO-DOO the "V-2" most interesting rocket in the world, was there helping me all 4 day.:grin:


CJ are we going to see DD for the WM Sport kits???????

No Gary...I did NOT DD the bathroom.

Yes for the Sport....heck ya can take the top off any Jr Kit you may have & use that. But yes Tim will sell you the DD conversion kit.
 
Ok....

take the rear centering ring and put 2 screws in it on the shiny side. This is so you can remover the rear CR later to add foam, if you are using the epoxy method of building, just glue the rear CR on motor mount tube & leave enough room sticking out for motor retainer if using one.

DSCN2884.jpg






Glue the shock cord & front CR, to MM tube. Encapsulate it, set aside to cure.

Take the mm assembly and place into rear airframe tube. Push rear CR up to edge of slot, so fin will engage later.
Make sure the shock cord on motor mount is not visible in any fin slot or fin will hit it & not seat to the tube!!!

DSCN3366.jpg





Place a fin into slot, fits good, then remove add some [5-10-15 minute] epoxy to the root edge and seat to MM tube [or tack it in with CA if using foam]

be careful not to glue the rear CR on if foaming!!!! Continue with other 2 fins. Use your favorite type of fin alignment.

DSCN3357.jpg
 
Last edited:
While fin can glue is curing move onto the NC recovery attachment loop. No need for a BP [bulkplate].

Cut a section off your recovery cord, long enough to make a loop barely sticking out of NC.
Tie section through a 1/4 nut or washer, making a loop.

DSCN3371.jpg


I'm using a clear cone just to show what I'm doing. [Your's of course will be black.]

Rough up front half of interior of nose cone with sandpaper wrapped around a dowel.
Drop the heavy end of loop with nut/washer into tip.

DSCN3372.jpg

Place the NC into a glass of water to keep the NC cool when glue is poured in.

DSCN3395.jpg

Fill the front 1/3 to 1/2 with 2-part polyurethane foam. Or just enough epoxy to cover the Nut/washer if using that method.

DSCN3396.jpg

If you use too much foam....don't worry...if it overflowed the NC, just cut off or sand excess flush.
 
Now remove the rear CR by pulling it out with the 2 screws [ these are just sheet rocket screws]

DSCN2879.jpg


Stand fin can vertical for foaming.

DSCN2881.jpg


Using the 2-part PML foam kit. Around 12-14.00 enough to do many small-medium size projects.

Mix 30 ml 15ml resin........... 15ml hardener.
Mix fast, you will only have 30 seconds to a minute to do this before it begins to foam.

DSCN3378.jpg

Pour equal amounts [10ml] between each fin. Let the foam cure hard. 15-30 minutes. Do NOT touch it, will be gooey and a mess if you do.Wait till it hardens and is easy to cut or sand. It may leak out around the fins while foaming.....don't mess with it...till it cures hard!DSCN3381.jpg


Once hard it becomes very easy to cut...shape.... sand. Just cut off any excess and sand flat, replace and glue on rear centering ring....or don't, doesn't really matter. Trim with blade any leakage around fin slots and sand.
DSCN3379.jpg





If you are building with epoxy. You would be doing external small fillets at this point.

If you foamed the fins in, no external fillets needed. I just did tiny ones with my finger [gloved] wiping on a bit of 5 minutes to fill the crack/edge so paint will look nice.
 
Last edited:
Drill 1/8in holes right above rear CR position and front CR position. On the centerline previously drawn on tube.

Use the button to align the screw while installing. Take your time and keep even pressure on screw while turning into place.

DSCN3384.jpg


Drill a small pressure relief vent into airframe 6-7 inches from top of tube. If you plan on hammering this thing with motors [like most of you will] you don't want the NC popping off on the way up do to internal pressure being higher than external. This happens when traveling at high speeds over 2500 ft or so. This is 7/64.... 1/8in will do too.

DSCN3400.jpg
 
ya know...that clear nose cone would work nicely for a night launch bird...
Rex
 
Final assembly, attach shock cord to Y-harness and NC.

Tie a small loop about 2-3 ft from NC for chute protector and attach parachute.

Done.

DSCN3403.jpg
 
I haven't worked with the "thin-wall" glass. Are the PML/Fiberglass style (RA29P) Aeropack motor retainers the right fit, or the LOC-style ones (RA29L)? Though it pains me to spend 1/2 the kit price on a motor retainer, I do like them...still considering other, less expensive retention options.

Mark
 
I haven't worked with the "thin-wall" glass. Are the PML/Fiberglass style (RA29P) Aeropack motor retainers the right fit, or the LOC-style ones (RA29L)? Though it pains me to spend 1/2 the kit price on a motor retainer, I do like them...still considering other, less expensive retention options.

I'm not sure what size mmt they used for the sport kit, but on my Jart I managed to fit an estes 29mm retainer. It's ugly as sin, but it works if you're looking to save some coin.
8344931318_dfeb1ae9f8_n.jpg
 
I haven't worked with the "thin-wall" glass. Are the PML/Fiberglass style (RA29P) Aeropack motor retainers the right fit, or the LOC-style ones (RA29L)? Though it pains me to spend 1/2 the kit price on a motor retainer, I do like them...still considering other, less expensive retention options.

Mark

I emailed Tim to ask. He said to get the RA29P for PML tubes. Ordered mine the other day. I also got the AeroPack 29-24 adapter because I'll probably put it up on some 24mm motors on small fields and windy days.
 
I emailed Tim to ask. He said to get the RA29P for PML tubes. Ordered mine the other day. I also got the AeroPack 29-24 adapter because I'll probably put it up on some 24mm motors on small fields and windy days.

I use my Aeropack 29 to 24mm adapter at almost every launch, even with an Estes retainer . Usually with a 24/60 AT F35W .. can use as a hot or go for it load in a 24mm rocket or as a baby F to get off the pad but not leave field of view on a bigger rocket. Also Tim the Wildman has the killer price on these and the other Hobbyline RMS motors including the $10 29 40/120 G motors ...all 'Gateway' motors .

I have been mudding my bathroom for the last few weeks..and its finally almost ready for paint - if my wife heard that this could be done in a weekend she would have me shot ! But need to push on this project to because I am looking forward to the fall launches and want to be done and gone for them!

Kenny
 
Last edited:
Using the 2-part PML foam kit. Around 12-14.00 enough to do many small-medium size projects.

Mix 30 ml 15ml resin........... 15ml hardener.
Mix fast, you will only have 30 seconds to a minute to do this before it begins to foam.

View attachment 182146

Jim..

Do those construction spray foam cans do the same as the 2-part you show here?

Ed
 
I haven't worked with the "thin-wall" glass. Are the PML/Fiberglass style (RA29P) Aeropack motor retainers the right fit,
Mark

Motor mount is standard 29mm tubing, the RA29P works fine. Only exterior airframe is thin wall, light weight.

I use my Aeropack 29 to 24mm adapter at almost every launch, even with an Estes retainer . Usually with a 24/60 AT F35W .. can use as a hot or go for it load in a 24mm rocket or as a baby F to get off the pad but not leave field of view on a bigger rocket. Also Tim the Wildman has the killer price on these and the other Hobbyline RMS motors including the $10 29 40/120 G motors ...all 'Gateway' motors .

I have been mudding my bathroom for the last few weeks..and its finally almost ready for paint - if my wife heard that this could be done in a weekend she would have me shot ! But need to push on this project to because I am looking forward to the fall launches and want to be done and gone for them!

Kenny

Wildman has all AT Hobbyline re-loads and cases on sale for 35% discount ALWAYS. If you are a Wildman club member 40% always.
Most can be shipped with out Hazmat too! Now that's a hard deal to beat.

https://www.wildmanrocketry.com/ShowProducts.aspx?Class=82&Sub=85&Sub1=87

Kenny I was in living Hell, in that bathroom. Had to strip 30yr old wall paper off. Then re-skim the walls...of course that leads to hrs of sanding. Makes painting rockets seem like a cake walk. They never painted or prep-surfaced the walls .Paper was glued to raw sheetrock, making removal a you know what! Hope your ordeal went better.
 
Jim..

Do those construction spray foam cans do the same as the 2-part you show here?

Ed

NO!

The two part stuff is MUCH more adhesive. It's basically like epoxy that happens to foam up. It sticks really well to everything, so it really does a great job of locking everything together (fin tabs, motor mount, etc.) when used in the way Jim shows. It also chemical cures (like epoxy), meaning it does not need air to cure and an will therefore cure fully.

The spray can stuff just fills space - it doesn't stick anywhere near as well. Also it air-cures, so sometimes bits of it deep inside a space doesn't fully cure - not good.

Do NOT use spray can foam.

s6
 
Jim..

Do those construction spray foam cans do the same as the 2-part you show here?

Ed


No they are 1 part moisture cure. In tight confined places like rocket fin can construction they will continue to expand for months, their cure rate is based on exposure to moisture in the air....every time the sun beats down on your rocket and it gets hot. It's meant as a filler & insulator. It has very weak adhesive properties

Not an adhesive like 2-part polyurethane. Use what's specified and designed to work properly or suffer ill consequences .
 
Motor mount is standard 29mm tubing, the RA29P works fine. Only exterior airframe is thin wall, light weight.



Wildman has all AT Hobbyline re-loads and cases on sale for 35% discount ALWAYS. If you are a Wildman club member 40% always.
Most can be shipped with out Hazmat too! Now that's a hard deal to beat.

https://www.wildmanrocketry.com/ShowProducts.aspx?Class=82&Sub=85&Sub1=87

Kenny I was in living Hell, in that bathroom. Had to strip 30yr old wall paper off. Then re-skim the walls...of course that leads to hrs of sanding. Makes painting rockets seem like a cake walk. They never painted or prep-surfaced the walls .Paper was glued to raw sheetrock, making removal a you know what! Hope your ordeal went better.

In mine had to pull the plaster walls off to re-do tub surround..then the pipes cracked ..and had to pull up the floor to get to the pipes. .then since the rest was gutted anyway..thought it would be a good time to put in a new tub.

That RMS special rocks..most I order is non hazmat so reorder whenever I need something - one stop shopping. But of course if you het on the mailing list you will buy something big like the Vindicator DD and have to L2 to fly it right when those sales are announced .

You can jam a 5g 29mm CTI H160 skid in on of these Sport rockets and still be under model rocket rules if there is no waiver in place.

Kenny
 
Thanks for the retainer answers, everyone. I was briefly tempted to go cheap and do the plastic Estes one, but I just closed my eyes and ordered the Sport with an AeroPack... It's only money.:facepalm:
 
Thanks for the retainer answers, everyone. I was briefly tempted to go cheap and do the plastic Estes one, but I just closed my eyes and ordered the Sport with an AeroPack... It's only money.:facepalm:

I use Aeropack retainers on all my high power rockets. But I no longer buy the whole thing. It's less expensive to just get the part that goes on the rocket and reuse the screw on part. And I also sprung for the extra cost of having my name and Tripoli number engraved.

Joe


Sent from my iPad using Rocketry Forum
 
Back
Top