Painkiller Micro

stealth6 said:

I did something similar to my kit-bashed WildChild a couple years ago - it's a nice effect.

View attachment 181339

s6

Click to expand...

Beautiful effect! Did you start spraying at the nose and lift as you went down the tube?

I have some 1/4" Kevlar web, some 700# Kevlar cord that is about the same diameter of paracord. What would you use and how long?

I used a foot of 750# kevlar and about 12 foot of paracord, for no particular reason....but it works.

DizWolf said:

the 24P still takes a TON of work to fit.

Click to expand...

I bought the kit direct and a 24P from Apogee. I have a Dremel (A MUST HAVE!) and a 1/2" drum sander attachment ( I really don't know what Dremel calls it). I think I went around the last 1/4" of the motor mount 4-5 times. The Aeropack slid on. Easy peasy. Dave, do you have a Dremel? Or did I just get lucky?

I've got a dremel, but the rocket was built when i did it. Used a carbde bit. Wasn't hard per se. Just more than I'd do by hand.

Ah. Yeah... really easy before the MT is put inside the OT. I can see how it could be harder afterwards!

Frankly, I have no idea why the inner tube is so beefy while the outer tube is kinda thin. I like the kit. Trust me! Just wondering out loud.

I've never seen much 24mm FG. Just glad it exists. Even if it's thick enough to jack a car with

I agree! This is the first kit I don't need to jack with that will fly my insane CTIs!

majordude said:

Frankly, I have no idea why the inner tube is so beefy while the outer tube is kinda thin. I like the kit. Trust me! Just wondering out loud.

Click to expand...

Practicality ...... There are both thick and thin wall 38mm tubing. Remember most 38 airframe kits have 29 motor mounts in them
Thin wall airframe opens the door for 24mm motors, because it is lighter.
Thick /standard tubing is used in a variety of kits for both high power, where as thin wall [which is lighter obviously] is more for smaller mid power motor motors that would not fly in the same kit made of standard. But the beauty of thin wall airframe,it's still strong enough to fly the biggest 24/29mm motors that will fly.

Since 38 tubing is used for 3 things I know of...motor mounts, airframes & minimum diameter airframes. The standard is used where it's needed, thin wall, when you can get away with it.

That's the back ground, now moving forward:

There are no 24/29mm kits I know of using thin wall and if there are, it's darn few... so 98% of 24/29mm glass is standard wall & just used for motor mount ,

There is no need to use anything other than standard 24/29 mm motor mount tubing that would increase the price. So it just looks funny staring up the butt of your rocket when the 2 tubes are different diameters, and the smaller one has thicker walls than the larger.

The final straw is :
There is no need I can see of, for both thin and thick wall 24 & 29 since most if it is used just for MM's where as 38 is used a lot for both airframe & motor mount.
If you did have thin wall 24/29 motor mounts, the kit makers & vendors would have to carry 2 different sized Centering rings for the same thing. Since the ID of 29 tube are the same inside but the OD would be different between the standard & thin. So now you need 2 -24mm to 38mm Cr's. The OD the same on both, but the ID different, yet so close they could EASILY be mistaken for each other when parting out [assembling] kits.

Crap like this [carrying triple inventory parts for no good reason] are one of the things that drive kit makers nuts!

So bottom line is. There is no need to make 24/29mm thin wall ,that's why they use standard/ thick.

You get a real nice light weight rocket, that will fly on larger variety of motors, still allowing the biggest one you can stick in the pipe.
Can still handle all this for are really , really nice price point...where as standard wall airframe , would not allow as for this scale of economy. Thin wall airframe matters... the standard wall motor mount doesn't... for all the above reasons, hence the visual anomaly.

Right GT........

Makes sense, blackjack!

Ok, enough reading, time to get mine out of the closet and start building.

-Hans

That there is one cool lookin rocket,,nice job

Almost done with mine, really drops right together for the most part. Only thing of any real work was sanding down the motor tube enough for an aeropack motor retainer.

-Hans

HHaase said:

Almost done with mine, really drops right together for the most part. Only thing of any real work was sanding down the motor tube enough for an aeropack motor retainer.

-Hans

Click to expand...

pretty sure you could drop the parts for this into a bag, pour in 20 grams of epoxy, shake it twice and a rocket would fall out

Finished mine! The hardest part was painting.

If I were to do it again (and I may) I would NOT paint it.

Launched my rocket yesterday on a CTI F240-8(!) and MAN... that sucker was here... then there... 1300' up in less than a blink of an eye. As the LCO announced, that rocket TELEPORTED from the pad to the end of the thrust.

I know of no other 24mm kit capable of this.

Bad assed kit. Grab one!

Sounds like a fun motor for this rocket. Gotta try it with the f240 in my range box.

DizWolf said:

OK,glued the harness down, sanded up the slots, wiped it down with alcohol, sanded the fin edges, and glued in the fins. I laid a thick line of Aeropoxy ES6209 over the slot, buttered the edge of the fin, and pressed it in place. The fit is tight enough I didn't bother with a fin jig or whatnot. I wiped down the fins with my finger, and BANG! exterior fillets. With the motors this will fly on, I'm not too concerned about the fins ripping off. No need to make the ass end a glue bomb.

All that's left is to find an eye bolt and glue the nose up! (video coming shortly)

Click to expand...

You think you are good ? , no fins alignment tool, what an epic fail.

Area66 said:

You think you are good ? , no fins alignment tool, what an epic fail.

Click to expand...

What? Seriously?

Area66 said:

You think you are good ? , no fins alignment tool, what an epic fail.

Click to expand...

watermelonman said:

What? Seriously?

Click to expand...

HAHAHA. I'm not concerned. He lost his mind, that's cool. I truly find that humorous. I think there is a bunch of over engineering on little rockets, and the entire way I built this one bears that out. No internal fillets, just lay glue on, press it in and pull the externals. one step. I didn't even glue the CR's OMG!!!

I'm smiling epically. All the build threads I've got up, all the dumb stuff I've done, and he comes up with this? *shrug* maybe he learned something checking out all my other threads

watermelonman said:

What? Seriously?

Click to expand...

He sounds like he's about 12 years old. I'd ignore him.

Hi Diz,
What size chute are you using?
Just ordering the retainer and deployment items for mine

15" It comes down fast.

DizWolf said:

15" It comes down fast.

Click to expand...

I'll 2nd that. 15" on fiberglass mini's is perfect. I even use a 15" when I have an eggfinder and lipo in the nose. pad weight is close to 20oz with a 3 grain 29mm. comes down fast but we land on soft dirt so never an issue. I also use a 6x6 nomex.

Thanks guys - I ordered a 15 & 18" and some nomex.
I'll prolly also go with lugs and buttons so I don't always have to break out the rail at home. Great build thread Diz

Guys The Par15 or Par18 will work out fine.

I just got one of these, and am really looking forward to my first fiberglass rocket. I really like the unfinished finishing, and am really impressed with how solid and straight-forward it looks to go together. I also like the shape.

Build question:
One of the post flight photos shows the rail buttons look like they are installed into the centering rings. Is that correct? Did you just drill barely big enough hole for the screw and epoxy it in?

Motor question:
I don't have an L1 so the 6 grain motors are out (at least for now...I suppose this could be an L1 cert rocket...we'll see). In the mean time, I do have an Aerotech 24/40 case. Am I right that I should be consider *28-* or higher reloads (like E28 or F30) for safe flight? I saw a reference to an E15, but for a 17+ ounce rocket, that seems a little under-powered (~3 thrust/weight).

Mine had is first flight yesterday on an e-18w in my 24/40 case, and a 4 foot rail. Weathercocked a bit more than I'm comfortable with. I'll be going with a hotter motor next time.

Two flights on E15's to around 800 feet. I'm very comfortable with that motor. Going to use E18's for the next flights. 6' rails.

I did drill into the CR's. Well, I tried to. missed the bottom one. I put epoxy in both holes and just screwed them in. so far so good.

DizWolf said:

Two flights on E15's to around 800 feet. I'm very comfortable with that motor. Going to use E18's for the next flights. 6' rails.

I did drill into the CR's. Well, I tried to. missed the bottom one. I put epoxy in both holes and just screwed them in. so far so good.

Click to expand...

How long is your rail there? 8ft? 12ft? I'm sure mine would do fine with that length rail as well.
But with a 4 ft rail, my E18W just didn't have the oomph.

-Hans