Do you have a favorite brand of spray paint?

I've been using Krylon, because I've heard good things. But one of the stores where I go has a ton of great colors in other brands (Rust-Oleum and Valspar, especially), but almost no Krylon.

Obviously I want to stick to one brand of paint per rocket, and I'm happy to try other brands. Do you have a favorite brand of spray paint? Are there any brands that you really don't like?

I never liked the Testor's Model Masters. Forget the outrageous cost, the nozzles themselves never worked well for me. I use an airbrush now. Takes a while, but I find building and finishing relaxing, so I don't mind.

I used to swear by Krylon, but they made some changes a few years ago and I started getting a lot of runs and other bad results. If you have any humidity you couldn't get a gloss finish, etc.

I now use Rustoleum E2X and am very pleased. Gloss colors come out nice and shiny. Coverage is great, even with lighter colors, and their clear coats do what they claim.

Used to be Krylon, but a couple of bad finishes on things (not rockets) put me off of them.

I use Rusto now.

I had issues with the Krylon too- now use Valspar and am much happier.

I have tried a bunch of spray paints and the best was the old formula Krylon but that is harder to get and even that has changed some. I tried Krylon, Rustoleum, Valspar, Ace and some cheap brands all with mixed results. Rustoleum 2X gave me some of the best results but also some of the worst issue with funky spray. If I had to say one, it would be Testors Model Master spray. Expensive yes, but for the most part the most consistent when compared to the above brands and leaves a nice gloss.

Rustoleum.

lcorinth said:

I've been using Krylon, because I've heard good things. But one of the stores where I go has a ton of great colors in other brands (Rust-Oleum and Valspar, especially), but almost no Krylon.

Obviously I want to stick to one brand of paint per rocket, and I'm happy to try other brands. Do you have a favorite brand of spray paint? Are there any brands that you really don't like?

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New Krylon has a very spotty reputation... some folks swear by it, some folks swear at it. I've used it and it's "okay", but I've actually had better luck with stuff like Walmart Colorplace, at 99 cents a can... hard to beat, and I can get VERY good finishes out of it...

I've read a LOT of horror stories about people following the directions on the cans RELIGIOUSLY, and even giving MORE time for the paint to cure before doing follow-up color coats for two-tone paint jobs and stuff, and STILL having it "alligator up" (wrinkle the underlying paint when the next color coat is applied) or otherwise ruin the finish. I've not had that happen, but then I don't use any more Krylon than I have to. Krylon USED to be the 'go-to' brand for painting rockets, years ago when it was a "recoat anytime LACQUER formulation, but those days are LONG gone thanks to your EPA. The new Krylon is an alkyd enamel, has been for years, and IMHO a rather crappy one at that. The only thing I've regularly used it for is the "Bauhaus Gold" color, which is a very close match to space shuttle External Tank foam insulation, for rockets like the Dr. Zooch shuttle, and the Dr. Zooch SLS. Otherwise, I really don't have any use for a paint that is unreliable and can go wonky, especially when there are other brands out there... Krylon is cheap unreliable paint in a fancy can with a fancy "twist flat-fan" nozzle on it, which is actually a BAD thing-- those nozzles can pop out and HOSE your rocket with paint, ruining the application, and they regularly spit and sputter and leak, and generally do a REALLY LOUSY job at atomizing the paint. Fancy-schmancy nozzles that do a poor imitation of an auto spray-paint gun can't make up for lousy paint... in fact they make the job a lot harder... the best applications come from good-old regular cheap "button nozzles" like on Walmart Colorplace paint, with its "ordinary" cone-spray pattern with excellent atomization... You can still get the OLD Krylon "five ball" lacquer formulation, but ONLY from industrial supply chains like Grainger's, etc... it's not available in common 'consumer' outlets...

Valspar was a very popular brand, and I've had good luck with it until the last year or two... they "cheapened up" the formulation, seems like the paint takes FOREVER to dry and never really gets hard when it does dry... they went to cheaper paint, but installed a fancy "twist-lock" cap on the can that does a LOUSY job at atomizing the paint and making a good, even spray pattern. Basically it's a nozzle *I* wouldn't put on an air freshener can, let alone a spray paint can... For awhile you could get the Valspar paints at Tractor Supply Company with a 'regular' spray nozzle, but then I guess they renegotiated, and TSC has since switched brands... cest les vis...

Rustoleum is a good brand, but beware-- they have several different formulations like the 2X plastic paint and stuff like that... some are better than others. I've had decent luck with Rustoleum and I appreciate that they haven't succumbed to the stupid "fad nozzle" crap that the other brands have embraced.

One of the best brands now is Dupli-Color, though you have to go to an Auto Supply to get it. Good paint, but beware-- they make BOTH enamel AND lacquer formulations... you can apply an enamel over a lacquer, but NOT a lacquer over an enamel!!! It will alligator up and ruin the paint very quickly if you apply a lacquer over an enamel 95% of the time. Be SURE you get either lacquer paints and primers or enamel paints and primers, and that they MATCH, because the cans look alike and usually reside right beside each other on the shelves!! It's a good quality paint in a variety of colors, and excellent primers.

For basic white/black finishes (common on scale rockets, especially NASA rockets) I like Walmart Colorplace primers and paints... they're cheap, work great, and I've had FANTASTIC results from them... only problem is they don't make many colors, just a few basic colors... I typically use WM CP primer, either red or gray, and then Rusto or Duplicolor paint over it for the color coats... Colorplace primers disappeared from the shelves for most of a year about a year or so ago, and so for awhile I switched to Rusto "wet sandable" primers, and had excellent luck.

DO NOT let anybody sell you "primer and paint in one" crap... that's for lawn furniture and junk like that, NOT to get a great finish on a rocket. If you just want to shoot a color on it, they're fine... if you want a GOOD looking, excellent quality finish, you MUST apply and sand a PROPER primer coat(s) to get the proper surface prep to get a good finish...

That's been my experience... Good luck! OL JR

I've only really ever used Krylon Fusion, as it sticks to almost everything and doesn't require primer (saving you a few $$).


Sent from my iPod touch using Rocketry Forum

X2, started with Rustoleom, had some issues primarily with clear and inconsistent results then switched to Dupli-Color.

luke strawwalker said:

One of the best brands now is Dupli-Color, though you have to go to an Auto Supply to get it. Good paint, but beware-- they make BOTH enamel AND lacquer formulations... you can apply an enamel over a lacquer, but NOT a lacquer over an enamel!!! It will alligator up and ruin the paint very quickly if you apply a lacquer over an enamel 95% of the time. Be SURE you get either lacquer paints and primers or enamel paints and primers, and that they MATCH, because the cans look alike and usually reside right beside each other on the shelves!! It's a good quality paint in a variety of colors, and excellent primers.

DO NOT let anybody sell you "primer and paint in one" crap... that's for lawn furniture and junk like that, NOT to get a great finish on a rocket. If you just want to shoot a color on it, they're fine... if you want a GOOD looking, excellent quality finish, you MUST apply and sand a PROPER primer coat(s) to get the proper surface prep to get a good finish

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Like skywalker says you need to follow the instructions, if you do you should have consistent results. I use the acrylic based enamel in the can and always wait 1 week between coats. Paint as recommended, two light passes then one medium, all within an hour, I wait two days then give a light wet sand with 400, don't worry about making it too smooth between coats, just get rid of any bumps, dust, etc and scuff it up for the next coat. Then wait another five days after wet sanding and cleaning before you apply the second coat. It makes for a long process but it you take your time you will get great results and people will notice. On clear I use a different technique especially as you get to the end as this is the coat which gives you the finish...if you want to know more just pm me.

When it comes to primer I much prefer the Dupli-Color filler primer, it's a mastic based paint and dries quickly but great for prepping the body for paint. I use the same method, 2 light passes, then one medium sand at 320, use 3M spot putty to fill any imperfections after the first pass, prime again, if any imperfections spot putty again and repeat until it's smooth. On the final prime don't sand and the surface, it should feel like about a 400 grit sandpaper ready for your base.

One thing I did to realize consistent results was to get a digital temperature and humidity gauge. They are inexpensive and provide a lot of value and security for painting. The last thing you want to do is create a lot of work for yourself after spending weeks painting then blow it on the last coats due to not following the temperature humidity ranges for whatever paint you end up going with.

Dupli-Color hands down for me...However,where I USED to buy it,the price has not only gone thru the roof,its out in space .
I'll use DP and hit it with Minwax clear laquer while still on the wet side. Works wonderfull for me.YRMV

Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch Ultra Cover 2x. It applies very easily due to having the best spray nozzle of any paint brand that I have tried, and as the name says, it covers great and levels out nicely for a great smooth coat. It's so easy to apply it makes you feel like an expert. After decades of offering only meh colors, Rusto finally figured out that it needed to offer a bright vivid color selection.

I have had no problems with "new Coke" Krylon; in fact I like it better than the classic version. The only things I don't like are their primers and their Gloss White. Both seem to be awfully thin and watery. Other colors are fine,though.

As many have already posted used to use Krylon Old formula almost exclusively but after the formula change i've switched to any of several other rattlecan brands. Over time i've found the most forgiving and compatable formula is Rustoleum products. I'm not as gung-ho on X2 but generally I'll choose a Rustoleum over most others IF and I say IF they have a color close to what i'm looking for. I also use a lot of Colorworks, Dulicolor, Valspar, and even very expensive Testors/Pactra or just about anyones EXCEPT new Forumla Krylon which I've decided to simply not buy.

Rusto has so many different types I have no idea which is better. I really like the look and spray of 2X but too many bad experiences with sputtering and throwing clumps.

SCIGS30 said:

Rusto has so many different types I have no idea which is better. I really like the look and spray of 2X but too many bad experiences with sputtering and throwing clumps.

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I did experience that problem with one can, but I have never seen it again. I like the Ultra Cover 2x's color palette. My town's hardware store also stocks the full line, so they're real easy for me to get, too. I have had very limited experience with Valspar paints, but what I have used has worked out well.

In general I pick paints based on the specific job, and I have been able to make almost every paint brand and type work. The one glaring exception is, oddly, lacquer-based classic Krylon. Nothing but trouble with that stuff. It is even more puzzling because I have had complete success with Rusto-Leum Lacquer spray paint. I am every bit as mystified as everyone else is about this.

used to love Plasticote Lacquer based paint till California made it illegal ( like everything else ) Im pretty disgusted with most of the crap paint on the market now , im about ready to get an airbrush

I still use Krylon for the base coat (white).

I realy like Tamiya spray paints. Applies well and looks good when dry. Only $6-$7 a (small) can. :eyepop:

I had a HELL of a time with krylon colormaster. It bubbled on balsa, crackled on plastic, and the clear coat crackled the whole thing. the finish was also flat. JUNK! the next build I went back to rustoleum with a BEAUTIFUL finish.

I use the ACE hardware brand it works pretty great for me but is is not compatible with other brands. Rustoleum is ok, the X2 stuff is like painting with a fire hose but you can get used to it, I don't like the rustoleum nozzle I can get way more control with the ACE can any day. I try to avoid the ACE brand clear on white because I have notice that it yellows the white a bit.

I too, am about to ditch the spray can altogether and buy a nice small spray gun, better coverage better control and way more paint for the price. A bit longer dry time but in the long run its way cheaper. 32 oz in a quart can VS a 12 oz spray can, the last can of primer I bought was only 7 bucks.



TA

Paint and primer in one is junk!


TA

RKeller said:

I had a HELL of a time with krylon colormaster. It bubbled on balsa, crackled on plastic, and the clear coat crackled the whole thing. the finish was also flat. JUNK! the next build I went back to rustoleum with a BEAUTIFUL finish.

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Sounds pretty typical... Krylon= Cry Long about how it messed up the rocket...

Later! OL JR

Valspar or Halfords automotive paints (in the UK) are reliable. The Valspar metalic paints do take a while to dry though. The finish remains soft for up to 3 days and is easily damaged beyond that.

SO.

For the price,Rustoleum2 works best for me.I use to spray Valspar but they changed the nozzle which is a shame as their paint I found was very good.

I'm typically Krylon or Rustoleum. I just bought a spray gun and am looking forward to using some paints carried by Summit Racing. I have heard really good things about their products.

Rustoleum or Rustoleum 2 works for me. I'll use spray cans or quarts and run it through a spray gun.

Andrew

I have to concur that Krylon, which I really liked for my first projects, easily messes up. It is easy to end up with a milky finish instead of the pure color. Maybe this has to do with humidity or thick layers, but I tried to do very thin layers and ended up with either dry application, thus no glossy finish, or the milky finish. Disappointing

I'll follow your advice and try Rustoleum. Some mention Rustoleum 2. Are there some Rustoleum types of paint that I should stay away from?

Rust-O-Leum now. I agree on the Krylon comments as well, their gloss used to be amazing, now it's like it is thinner and more prone to run. Rust-O also makes a really neat crackle finish metallic one that looks amazing. It's a thicker coat than a typical gloss or flat, but it looks niiiice.

morlock said:

I have to concur that Krylon, which I really liked for my first projects, easily messes up. It is easy to end up with a milky finish instead of the pure color. Maybe this has to do with humidity or thick layers, but I tried to do very thin layers and ended up with either dry application, thus no glossy finish, or the milky finish. Disappointing

I'll follow your advice and try Rustoleum. Some mention Rustoleum 2. Are there some Rustoleum types of paint that I should stay away from?

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Yes, the milky finish is from painting on high humidity days.

I see a ton of Rustoleum products at the store and did not have much luck with 2X, so what other Rustoleum paints are worth using? Also I keep hearing Valspar is a good paint but the nozzle makes it a poor product. What about replacing the caps? There are a ton to choose from online or Ebay. Maybe go back to the old style of caps like the ones on Testors cans.

Valspar took WEEKS to dry on my Leviathan. Rusto 2x is taking it's time drying on my Door Knob. It's been 80-100F with less than 50% humidity at our house for the last few weeks and after 48 hours masking tape was leaving marks on my Door Knob. On Saturday, 5 days later, the rocket still stunk and felt a little tacky to the touch. I've got 2 months until the next launch so hopefully it will be fully cured by then.