Tools Airframe G-10 fins & Plywood fins

Hi

What is thew best saw or tool to use to cut fiber glass and wood airframes and fins for High power. ?

Thanks
Paul

Dremel cut off wheel is what I use on FG. I use a bandsaw for wood and fg fins.

For wood fins I like to use a table saw. With the fence and miter it makes it easy to get straight cuts and the angles for the fins. I also use a band saw and scroll saw for small fins and centering rings. Now and then I even use a hand pull saw. For fiberglass its a toss up between the table saw and a tile saw. The table saw is quick and easy, but you do get the dust. The tile saw, with the diamond blade can be used wet or dry, but if I use the tile saw I use it wet and don't have to deal with any dust. I do sometimes use the band saw and scroll saw for G10 centering rings and they work well. The only drawback is that you must use carbide blades, which can be a bit hard to find for band saws and scroll saws, and when you do find them you will pay for them. Do not try to use regular blades for G10 on the band saw or scroll saw as you will get about 10-15 seconds before they turn into junk. All my table saw blades are carbide so they work on G10 as well as wood. I do use the dremel when cutting slots in G10.

Mike

Table saw, router, and drill press are my best friends

Composite materials (fiberglass and carbon fiber) should be cut with special purpose blades, such as a diamond blade in a table saw or a dedicated tile saw. The latter is best because the water keeps the nasty dust under control.

I'm not sure what wood airframes you're talking about, but paper and (paper) phenolic can be worked with ordinary woodworking tools, like plywood.

Hi

Thanks very much gentailmen for the suggestions . I was ready for aleast one person to say mitre saw but none . Oki doki tabel & tile saw it is .

Thanks
Paul

Paul Whalen said:

I was ready for aleast one person to say mitre saw but none .

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A chop saw (don't need angles other than 90°) is very useful for cutting tubes to length. The point I was trying to make is that ordinary woodworking tools and blades work for paper, phenolic and plywood, but you need to use special blades and dust collection for composites.

Looking for advice for mounting of my Jolly Logic Altimeter 2 in my scratch built rocket......
The rocket is 3.9" diameter and 57" in total length. I know the altimeter needs air in to the body tube in order to read the pressure to get readings for the altitude. My question is, if I get a couple holes in the body tube for the Alt 2 to operate, will that greatly reduce the effectiveness of my ejection charge from the motors? I am running on a Quad cluster of 29mm mounts, so I think I probably have enough charge to get the nosecone off and support the Alt 2? just looking for some advice before i commit to putting the holes in the body tube.
Thanks anyone for your help.

Vinny said:

My question is, if I get a couple holes in the body tube for the Alt 2 to operate, will that greatly reduce the effectiveness of my ejection charge from the motors?

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Any electronics should be in a sealed compartment separate from the ejection charge. You drill multiple largish holes in the bay section of the airframe, but only a single tiny hole in the recovery section itself.

Thanks John, makes sense. I'll be sure to make a separate compartment for the electronics.
Vinny

Vinny,

There's also a mount for the 2014 version of AltimeterTwo, if you're making a sled to hold stuff.

You can check it out here.