Voo-Doo V-2 new 4in. Dual-Deploy kit continues...

If you are just using motor deploy.....glue the coupler into the nose cone and you are basically done. [except for rail buttons & paint]

No bulk plate is used. Just attach recovery to loop in NC.
This allows you to go up into the NC with motors as large as the 54mm 6xl case!!!



This now puts the Voo-Doo V-2 in a class by itself. I know of no other V-2 4in. kit than can handle a 6xl grain 54mm motor, and comes standard with Aero-Pac motor retention included in the price!
To "the moon Alice"!!


Now on to the Dual-Deploy upgrade version, which consists of 2 aluminum BP's and a coupler vent-band.:grin:
With the DD you can fly up to 4 grain 54mm motors.

Dual De-Ploy Upgrade, the only 4in V-2 that comes with a simple Dual De-ploy upgrade available,doesn't lengthen the kit, nor mess up the scale, no need for long walks anymore. Just enjoy the flight!:

If you want to maximize space to allow using a 4 grain case,[CTI] you cannot use an eyebolt in the center.It will hit top of case. Yes it's that close! If 3 grain is all you care about then the standard eyebolt in center & 2 tie rods can be used for AV-bay.

Here's how to maximize your space....... yes I'm an evil genius .....LOL. [actually just lazy & don't like looong walks. Necessity is the mother of invention.]

Drill 2 holes.....1/4in. in aft bulkplate....1/2in. from edge of BP, for a recovery strap. I used 3/8 kevlar.
Thread kevlar through holes and tie knot on each end. Drill 1/8 hole for wire to pass for ejection charges.
Add length of 1/4in threaded rod to center hole use nut on outside, & lock washer/nut on inside. Use thread locker or CA to hold in place. Make sure rod is flush with nut on exterior!



1/2in. of threaded rod exposed on nose end.



Use a coupler nut & eyebolt for forward retention of BP's and to attach recovery gear.[ If you can find them an eye-nut works great also.]



Finished AV-bay assembly .




Yes the photo's are out of sync....vent band attachment is coming........

Mark the vent band for 3 holes. These marks will be used for shear pin position & vents for AV-bay.
Can't use the slots in fin can trick....4 fins..we want 3 positions.
I just sat the band on another 4in diameter rocket and marked it using the fin positions.




Slide Av-bay [with bulk plates attached or coupler will go farther up into NC!] into nosecone & add the vent band.
Draw line around coupler.



Remove coupler/av-bay, remove vent band. Apply tape around mark.
This is to keep excess glue off coupler. Stick back into NC and mark front edge where vent band would be, mark around.




Remove coupler/av-bay. You now have a marked area to sand for vent band attachment & tape to catch excess glue.

Sand inside the vent band.
In-between the lines on Av-bay/coupler.




Smear thin band of epoxy onto the Av-bay/coupler, between lines only.
Do not put any inside vent band .





Slide on vent band, twisting, to evenly disperse glue.
Remove tape & Voila!..... no muss, no fuss, no glue to clean up.





Check the fit by placing into the nosecone, make sure nothing has shifted, so there is no gap between band & NC, adjust by pushing band lightly to fit.

Transfer the 3 marks from the vent band on to the nose cone.



Measure 1 inch from edge of cone & mark/drill the 3 holes for shear pins.[2-256 nylon pins] Use 5/64 bit.
Drill hole, insert pin, move on to the next. Do one at a time & insert pin. Do NOT try to drill all 3 then fit pins.




When finished, drill "key mark" into joint between NC & airframe. This will aid in alignment when prepping. Just deep enough to see through several layers of paint.



Center the marks on vent band and drill the 3 vent holes for altimeter sampling with 5/32 bit.
Be sure to remove any splinters and sand interior edges of holes smooth.




The nose cone is acting like a payload tube,shear pinned onto the coupler, since we are putting the main chute into it. As in a payload tube, we need a vent to equalize interior pressure with exterior. Drill a small vent in NC, be careful to drill vent ABOVE where the Av-bay/coupler ends.Won't do any good if you drill into it.LOL 7/64 what I used.

Rail Buttons install:


draw center line on airframe.
make sure when marking for upper rail button you mark below where the coupler will end. Mark 3/4 in below Coupler edge.




Bottom button will go right where fin slots end or top of fins. Tail-cone is full body diameter at this point.




Drill hole with 1/8 bit[for 1010 buttons], screws will self tap & be plenty strong enough. I removed the top screw and ground off the excess length so it would not catch the recovery straps.



Finally another vent hole is needed to equalize internal/external pressure in airframe.
used a 7/64 bit.





Maybe it's time for another adventure of......

'the most interesting rocket in the world"

Did you create a RockSim file for this beauty?
Anyone.....
I am telling my better half that I need this fro MWP. She is a visual person and if I show her lots of data it sometimes helps!
Thanks

Jarhead said:

Did you create a RockSim file for this beauty?
Anyone.....
I am telling my better half that I need this fro MWP. She is a visual person and if I show her lots of data it sometimes helps!
Thanks

Click to expand...

I never ask for permission...just buy it!

Jim, why not use a tap for the rail button screws- makes life easier and cleaner.


Mark Koelsch
Sent from my iPhone using Rocketry Forum

markkoelsch said:

Jim, why not use a tap for the rail button screws- makes life easier and cleaner.


Mark Koelsch
Sent from my iPhone using Rocketry Forum

Click to expand...

I've always just drilled a 1/8 hole and let the #8 screw self tap into it.
Therefore I never found a reason to go & buy a tap set.


If I had one [tap set] for other purposes, I probably would do as you recommend.

I really don't see how it would be easier or cleaner. You still must drill a hole, I just skip the tap part & install the button. Seems a bit easier by eliminating the tap part ..LOL

blackjack2564 said:

I've always just drilled a 1/8 hole and let the #8 screw self tap into it.
Therefore I never found a reason to go & buy a tap set.


If I had one [tap set] for other purposes, I probably would do as you recommend.

I really don't see how it would be easier or cleaner. You still must drill a hole, I just skip the tap part & install the button. Seems a bit easier by eliminating the tap part ..LOL

Click to expand...

With my clumsy hands, the self tap method sometimes results in an off angle that is then a pain to fix. What I now do is use the rail button as a guide while self tapping the screw.

WoShuGui said:

With my clumsy hands, the self tap method sometimes results in an off angle that is then a pain to fix. What I now do is use the rail button as a guide while self tapping the screw.

Click to expand...

Actually, that's exactly how I do it.

Finally painted the Voo-Doo V2. Will fly at MWP.

2nd shot next to the Sport for scale.

Beautiful paint job! How did you do it?

Not that difficult, just a bit time consuming taping tube off.

I don't see so well anymore so Tim did the initial tape/divide for me. After that I completed the job.


First paint the finish coat of lighter color on the entire rocket. Here this would be white gloss.

Then divide the rocket in half vertically with tape, this was 3/4in.
After you have taped off both sides, leave center section in place. The top & lower section, place tape alongside the original. Once in place remove original . I used a box cutter to cut tape clean at joint lines. Look closely after enlarging images...you will note the imaginary straight line that now divides the rocket vertically, keeping the paint in proper place for the effect.



The fin can I used tape around the fin & filled in area to remain whit with tape....just one fin.
Other large box areas to remain white I used paper [folded to fit] and masked to tape already in place.



Lightly coat orange area with mist coat first to seal tape edges. After 10-15 minutes apply finish coats I did 2 medium.






PS call me when you get the time....want to hear about your Balls adventure!

Absolutely Beautiful!

Great job Jim! Thanks for this thread!

Jim, a question following an observation. The V2 is designed to need a bunch of weight in the nose. This comes from the original being designed to deliver a ton of explosives and being actively guided. Have you a recommendation as to the needed weight in the nose on this one?


Mark Koelsch
Sent from my iPhone using Rocketry Forum

markkoelsch said:

Jim, a question following an observation. The V2 is designed to need a bunch of weight in the nose. This comes from the original being designed to deliver a ton of explosives and being actively guided. Have you a recommendation as to the needed weight in the nose on this one?


Mark Koelsch
Sent from my iPhone using Rocketry Forum

Click to expand...

Hi Mark..... good question.

So far the other 2 kits [54mm Sport & 6in version] have not needed any.
There are several 4in versions out there and they all fly fine with out any.
I have not flown mine yet {MWP} but added none.

I think part of the success , lies in having the DD out of the NC coupler, with main, shock cord & nomex in the front of cone.
You have the weight of sled, tie rods, altimeter, battery, chute, cords, quick links all in the top.

I can't tell what the weight distribution is on this one , but my 6in. weighs 17lbs. ....9lbs of that is the fin can & 8lbs is the NC and recovery gear. NC stripped is 5.5lbs.
So I guess you could say there is 2.5lbs of nose weight, but it's just the recovery gear..... in the correct place for once.LOL

On all these versions the CP is right at the front of fin & the CG [on mine] is 1/2 caliper ahead of that with worst case motors.[short and behind the CG. When using larger/longer motors the CG is a comfortable 1-2, which as you know is excellent for a short, stubby rocket.

Do you consider the V2 stubby? I think the boat tail might mess that up a little as you loose the benefits of the base drag.

Still having the deployment out the nose will certainly help the Cg.


Mark Koelsch
Sent from my iPhone using Rocketry Forum

Jim great paint job, you should look into liquid masking film.


Alexander Solis

TRA - Level 1
Mariah 54 - CTI RedLightning- I-100 - 6,345 Feet

markkoelsch said:

Do you consider the V2 stubby?


Mark Koelsch
Sent from my iPhone using Rocketry Forum

Click to expand...

Well...come to think of it...lets go with....."stout" LOL!

SinfulDarkLord said:

Jim great paint job, you should look into liquid masking film.


Alexander Solis

TRA - Level 1
Mariah 54 - CTI RedLightning- I-100 - 6,345 Feet

Click to expand...

Thank you...... I will.

Did you fly it this past weekend?