Snap Ring Plier Use

I've been meaning to do this for a while, and I finally got to it today.

Below is a video I made today that will help new users easily and safely use snap ring (retaining ring) pliers. It might even help others that have been using them for a while. It's basically what I have learned to keep the retaining ring from flying off the tips. I hope it is helpful. It has been very helpful for me for many years now. Hopefully it will show those who are unfamiliar with snap ring motors just how easy and safe installing snap rings / retaining rings can be.

Thanks for watching.

[video=youtube;ZXN_BoA-szI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXN_BoA-szI&feature=youtu.be[/video]

Thanks for the tips Scott, well done.

I was showed a pretty neat trick using the forward bulk head , treaded rod , PVC pipe and a piece of wood to remove the liner from my 76/6000 case after flying a M2550 this weekend. Sure beat the dowel and mallet method. Thanks Jim!

If a liner is so tight that you have to pound it out, try taking a propane torch to the case and warming it up. Don't torch it to death, but if you warm it up enough it will loosen everything up and make it much easier to remove. Always disassemble a motor as soon as you can after recovering it. A pair of leather gloves are good to keep in your range box to protect your hands if the case and/or nozzle is still a bit hot.

Very cool video Scott,,,
Thank you very much...
I use Knipex side cutting (linesman's) pliers
and have found them to be a quality piece of steel...

Teddy

Great video, Scott!

And I agree on the Knipex pliers -- they work very well, and the prices are very reasonable.

-Kevin

The Knipex pliers are worth the investment. I was building 3" and 4" hybrids many years ago and tried all kinds of snap ring pliers; none of which were reliable or easy to use. Someone tipped me off to the Knipex brand at McMaster Carr and I gave them a shot and it was worth the money.

Spiral rings can be substituted for any snap ring. Spiral rings need no tool. They are available from McMaster and a lot of places.

https://www.smalley.com/retaining-rings/spirolox

-->MCS

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MCS said:

Spiral rings can be substituted for any snap ring. Spiral rings need no tool. They are available from McMaster and a lot of places.

https://www.smalley.com/retaining-rings/spirolox

-->MCS

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Click to expand...

My experience with those is that they lose their temper easier especially on the nozzle end. I still use them for my 38mm high l/d motors, but consider them single use.

Binder Design said:

My experience with those is that they lose their temper easier especially on the nozzle end. I still use them for my 38mm high l/d motors, but consider them single use.

Click to expand...

but if you keep them cool with a phenolic nozzle....

I've found my place for them, but only after struggling for a long time to get an ear-less (constant cross section) retaining ring made to spec.

For the reloads using single use phenolic/graphite nozzles, I really wanted to stick with something that used pliers since that's what people are use to using. True, you don't need any special tools, other than a flat head jewelers screw driver, but 2-turn spiral rings still have their own quirks as well. So, I'll be doing another video on using those in the near future. I do a bit of work to them in order to make them easier to pry out and less likely to scratch the hardware. They are now shipping with the 54/4000 hardware and are available for the 54/2800 Loki Red reloads soon to come out. I just thought it would be great to make a video on using snap ring pliers since questions about them always seem to be popping up.

I have been using these for use with my Loki 38mm cases, and they work awesome - very easy to use and I haven't had a single snap ring fly off.

Thank you Coleman,,
I think I have a similar pair of snap ring pliers by another manufacturer...
I will give them a try before I spend on a pair of Knipex pliers....

Teddy

I bought 2 sets: for the 38 mm, 54 mm and 76 mm; one for home and one for the range box...
I find it too easy to leave things you need in the field at home.
The only one I don't have 2 of is the 98 mm pliers.

JD

pyrobob said:

The Knipex pliers are worth the investment. I was building 3" and 4" hybrids many years ago and tried all kinds of snap ring pliers; none of which were reliable or easy to use. Someone tipped me off to the Knipex brand at McMaster Carr and I gave them a shot and it was worth the money.

Click to expand...

JDcluster said:

I find it too easy to leave things you need in the field at home.

JD

JD

Click to expand...

Tell me about it.............

Take it from someone who has put a nasty gouge in his nice new case with a crappy cheap pair of snap ring pliers. Knipex pliers are the only way to go, thanks for the tip on filing the notch, its next on my list of things to do.


TA

I used to use Tools like those for assembling Geared Hubs and whatnot. I'm actually a big fan of Snap Rings. Even for Tires.
As long as you use the Snap Ring Properly, it will serve you well.
They used to show us a Video at Fort Knox, of what happens to a Human Body Dummy if a HET or HEMIT Wheel over inflated.
When I got to Iraq I found myself Macguyvering the "Cold Start" Ether Canister from my 5 Ton to inflate Humvee Tires "Ivan Stewart Style".
Split Rings in General are great

Loki Research said:

but if you keep them cool with a phenolic nozzle....

I've found my place for them, but only after struggling for a long time to get an ear-less (constant cross section) retaining ring made to spec.

Click to expand...

Yup, they have their place. I think that their load rating is superior to snap rings, and the cost of throwing them away after they look like a slinky is just part of doing business. I can see that you don't have room for any other option there.

Something else I'd like to add here. It's more of a habit for me now, so I don't really even think about it.

You'll notice that almost every time I install or remove the snap ring, I've got my thumb and for finger cupped around the outside of the snap ring. This is done so that in the off chance the ring does fly off the pliers, it is somewhat caught and doesn't go flying away towards me or the person next to me.

Also, NEVER compress a snap ring with the flat plain (side) of the ring in line with your face, or anyone else's face near by. If one does happen to fly off the pliers, they hurt really bad when they impact soft tissue at high speed.