Estes V2, Steam Punk, Forward Mounted Canted Cluster build thread.

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CZ Brat

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I am starting to build my first V2 rocket. I have always wanted to do a steam punk rocket. And with the success of my first fwd mounted canted cluster (https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?66677-WTF-(Where-s-The-Front-quot-)), I wanted to do a combination of the 2. I thought the V2's look would be the perfect platform for both of these ideas.

This rocket will have a few modifications.

First: Forward Mounted Canted Cluster. Since this rocket has 4 fins, I needed to do 2 or 4 motors. For a 2 motor, I would have gone 24mm. But I chose 4 motors, and decided to do 18mm for each. They will be mounted near the top of the BT at about 15 degrees. Here is a pic of a motor tube cut at the correct angle to help me size things up and trace the hole to cut.
IMG_1008.JPG

Here is the hole cut.
IMG_1016.JPG

Second: I wanted to glue the NC and have the chute ejected out the rear. By gluing the NC, it will force the ejection gasses downward to push the chute out the rear. I replaced the 24mm MMT with a BT55. I plugged the fwd end of the tube and cut slots in the side of it just above the CR. This will act as a baffle. Because of this, I had to shorten the fin tabs. But I over shortened them, so I thickened up the chute tube with a couple pieces of BT55 tube that I cut a slit lengthwise. I had to cut up the NC shoulder to make room for the MMTs.
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IMG_1019.JPG

Next I will glue in the MMTs and the supports for them. Then I will glue in the fins. I have covered them with cardstock to make them stronger.
IMG_1006.JPG

After I have the rocket built, comes my biggest challenge. Steam Punking. I haven't done this before, but want to try. Jeff (Fatboy) has inspired me to do this. I hope I am half as good as him.

I will try to keep updating this thread in a timely manner.
 
looking good sofar.....you think the finishing will be the hard part? I think your doing the hard part :cheers:
 
So have gotten more done. I added the fins and filled the fin can with foam. I have also readied all 4 MMTs with the needed support brackets. I also went to the hobby store and got some stuff to start the punking. I will have plenty of exterior pipes, rivets, and even some diamond plate.

IMG_1023.JPG

IMG_1027.JPG
 
So I am making more progress. I have the motor mounts glued in. The pic below is before they were glued. I also have glued the BT to the tailcone. I am also doing some of the "punk" work too. I decided what the rocket needs is some bellows. I will have a tube for each motor that comes out of the lower part of the NC horizontaly, then bends down angling in towards the rocket and attaching on the outside of each MMT. I am using bendy soda straws. Since soda straws are VERY weak, I took some Gorrilla glue mixed with a little water, then injected it into the straws with a syringe. The result is a low density foam that stiffens up the tube a lot. Just be sure to bend the straws in the position you want before it cures. I will try to get pics of this soon.

All put together.jpg
 
This is so cool. Now I know what to do with that other Mega Skeeter kit. BTW, do you have an easy way to make the motor mount cutout template? I used to have a link to one on line but can't find it. If so, could you make one for a 24mm tube? TIA.
 
This is so cool. Now I know what to do with that other Mega Skeeter kit. BTW, do you have an easy way to make the motor mount cutout template? I used to have a link to one on line but can't find it. If so, could you make one for a 24mm tube? TIA.

Dick,

Look at the first pic of the first post. I take a spare/scrap MMT, and cut it at the angle I want the real ones to mount to the rocket. With that, I then hold it in place and trace around it, then cut it out (see pic 2 of first post).

I don't have a pic of it, but I cut out a piece of balsa at the same angle, and glue to the side of the MMT that will be inside the MMT. It sticks down the inside of the BT and I glue it to the MMT and the BT. This helps transfer the forces to the BT so all the strain isn't on the glue joint where the MMT goes through the BT.
 
Cool. Finally folks are putting the canted motors up front where they belong. Get out the wipes as there will be a lot of soot to clean off after the first flight, but no burn issues with the fins. Do you think the big virtual fins caused by the canted motors will eliminate any V 2 wobble? In the end it is just an ignition issue. Well there is that CP-CG thing with all the steam punk stuff but more power and nose weight will take care of that.
 
Cool. Finally folks are putting the canted motors up front where they belong. Get out the wipes as there will be a lot of soot to clean off after the first flight, but no burn issues with the fins. Do you think the big virtual fins caused by the canted motors will eliminate any V 2 wobble? In the end it is just an ignition issue. Well there is that CP-CG thing with all the steam punk stuff but more power and nose weight will take care of that.

Daddyisabar,

I did this once before. I used a stock Fliskits Tres motor kit and put it into my scratch build. I flew it once before I painted it. No soot. Being it is a steam punk, I am thinking of putting a "Flame protector" just beneath each motor. I have scale plastic diamond deck that I could paint chrome for looks. In that case, a little soot would improve the steam punk look IMHO.

Please see my first canted fwd mounted rocket here.

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?66677-WTF-(Where-s-The-Front-quot-)
 
Dick,

Look at the first pic of the first post. I take a spare/scrap MMT, and cut it at the angle I want the real ones to mount to the rocket. With that, I then hold it in place and trace around it, then cut it out (see pic 2 of first post).

I don't have a pic of it, but I cut out a piece of balsa at the same angle, and glue to the side of the MMT that will be inside the MMT. It sticks down the inside of the BT and I glue it to the MMT and the BT. This helps transfer the forces to the BT so all the strain isn't on the glue joint where the MMT goes through the BT.

Thanks. It appears I didn't read all the words and thought that was a tube already sticking thru the body. :facepalm:

I searched https://mathworld.wolfram.com/ and did the math to get an ellipse that would be the pattern if the main BT were a plane. That will get the long dimension right and will be a good start in the other direction.

Your idea on the motor tube reinforcement is a good one. I was thinking about using triangular pieces joined in the middle. However, doing this down in the tube seems tricky.

I will also have to trim the cone as you did and am thinking about adding a bulkhead up in the cone so the ejection charges don't directly meet the thin plastic.

BTW, mine will be 3x24mm. I've gathered all the extra parts save one Estes 24mm retainer.
 
Thanks. It appears I didn't read all the words and thought that was a tube already sticking thru the body. :facepalm:

I searched https://mathworld.wolfram.com/ and did the math to get an ellipse that would be the pattern if the main BT were a plane. That will get the long dimension right and will be a good start in the other direction.

Your idea on the motor tube reinforcement is a good one. I was thinking about using triangular pieces joined in the middle. However, doing this down in the tube seems tricky.

I will also have to trim the cone as you did and am thinking about adding a bulkhead up in the cone so the ejection charges don't directly meet the thin plastic.

BTW, mine will be 3x24mm. I've gathered all the extra parts save one Estes 24mm retainer.

Do a thread and I'll subscribe.
 
It's been a long time since I did a build thread... I'll start one once the cutting and gluing commences.
 
Second: I wanted to glue the NC and have the chute ejected out the rear. By gluing the NC, it will force the ejection gasses downward to push the chute out the rear. I replaced the 24mm MMT with a BT55. I plugged the fwd end of the tube and cut slots in the side of it just above the CR.
i am interested in this concept... will you employ a burn string or some other method of keeping the recovery system in place prior to ejection or is friction enough to keep all that stuff in place so they dont come flying out early?
 
i am interested in this concept... will you employ a burn string or some other method of keeping the recovery system in place prior to ejection or is friction enough to keep all that stuff in place so they dont come flying out early?

Friction. I calculate that the highest G forces will be 20G. Times that by the mass of the components (plug and chute) of 1.5 OZ, I am looking at 30 OZ of force. I will test it with a 2 lb weight to ensure it stays put, but a 3 lb weight to ensure it releases. With a cross section of 1.36 square inches, it will take 1.5 PSI to pop it out at 2 lb resistance and about 2.3 PSI at 3lbs resistance.
 
So I made some progress. I added some of the large rivets, added a ladder and hatch made of diamond plate. Added a diamond plate "patch" and added the edge cap to two of the 4 fins. I also have the "Feed Lines" from the CersiumHypoxylate tank (Nose Cone) to the Pluranium Combustors (MMTs). They are put on in the pics, but not glued in. I am waiting for the O scale 3D waterslide rivet decals from Micro Mark to do a lot more details. I also have to finish the fill and sand (especially around the MMTs).

I also adjusted my calculations for the plug resistance. I weighed the plug and chute at .8oz. Round that up to 1.0oz and multiply by the max G-force that OR says for (4) C6 motors (20G), and I get a force of 20oz. Keep in mind, OR thinks the motors are straight up, not at 15 degrees off vertical. So the real acceleration is going to probably going to be about 17G or less. I then cut two weights out of some lead plate I had laying around. One weight is 24oz and the 2nd is 16oz. After adding the right amount of tape, the plug stayed in with the 1.5lb weight added, but released when I added the 1lb weight to it (total weight=2.5lbs). At an ID of 1.283, the cross section is 1.29 square inches. So at a maximum of 2.5 lbs force to expel, it requires 1.94 PSI to spit it out. I think the rocket is more than capable of handling that and the (4) motors will have no issue producing it, if they stay put.

Each motor with a cross sectional area of .4 inches squared, will have .8 lbs of force on them (max). Assuming good tight friction fit and a little tape on the outside as well, they should easily stay put. This is very critical. If even one motor poops out, I will probably not develop the 1.16 - 1.93 PSI required to eject the chute. I think I will get a large alligator clip or clamp that I can attach a 1lb weight to the end of each motor to test them at launch. This way I am sure they won't poop out.

So here are the pics, which is what we care about most on a build thread (if you're anything like me).

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Ok. Made some progress.

I glued the CersiumHypoxylate lines (soda straws) and added the vent lines (LL).
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Finished the friction calibration rig.
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And the LL "tie downs".
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Did the primer and added the copper paint. Now I am adding the MicroMark waterslide 3D rivets. It will ad up to about 3000 rivets when I am done. Glad to be able to do it 50 at a time with the decals.

Copper paint 1.JPG

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Love the color...you'll have ten times as many rivets as my Skeeter
 
I think I have 80-100 of the 3mm self adhesive half pearl beads and then all the MicroMark water slide ones. I have never put so much into finishing a rocket. Keep your fingers crossed it turns out good.
 
Wow, it's coming out very nice !! The V-2 really lends itself to the steampunk theme. I'm also in the middle of a scratch steampunk---I'll start posting pics later tonight---I know what you mean about all the finishing. The nice thing is you just about can't go wrong. H
 
Yeah, I like the V2 form factor more than the Skeeter...but I usea what I had on hand :)
 
Wow, it's coming out very nice !! The V-2 really lends itself to the steampunk theme. I'm also in the middle of a scratch steampunk---I'll start posting pics later tonight---I know what you mean about all the finishing. The nice thing is you just about can't go wrong. H

Hornet Driver,

Let me know where your thread is so I can check out the pics
 
OK guys. It's time for the finished product pics. I am happy with the results, but there are small things I learned that I plan to apply on future builds.

Here are all 4 sides.
Finished V2 1.JPGFinished V2 2.JPGFinished V2 3 .JPGFinished V2 4.JPG

The rear plug. Can you guess what the giant hand wheel is?
Finished V2 5.JPG

Motor Mount up-close.
Finished V2 6.JPG

Access hatch.
Finished V2 7.JPG

Fin Patch.
Finished V2 8.JPG

Fillet rivets.
FInished V2 9.JPG

Circular rivets
Finished V2 10.JPG
 
And the last 2 pics, since I am only allowed 10 per post.

Feed line "weld". This is actually a fortunate accident. I used gorilla glue and wet things to make it expand. On some of the joints, it oozed out. Once painted, it looks like a crude weld bead. Very happy with this accident.
Finished V2 11.JPG

More details.
Finished V2 12.JPG

Thanks for watching my build. Not sure when I will launch it.
 
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I would really like to hear some discussion from you steampunk wizards about how you do the weathering. What techniques do you use to apply the black color that gives it the weathered, used, corroded look? It's fantastic, and I just have no clue how you do it.
 
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