LOC Magnum 3E Build Thread

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I need to locate a retention device for the wires coming out of the Altimeter so they don't get
pulled on, the Blue and Orange wires... Any ideas?
I generally run the ematch leads through holes in the bulkhead and then tie a granny knot on the inside so they won't put tension on the terminal block when pulled.
 
I generally run the ematch leads through holes in the bulkhead and then tie a granny knot on the inside so they won't put tension on the terminal block when pulled.


+1 on this method.

No terminals on my E-bay bulkplates and no complicated wires! Plug and play!



Braden
 
We're not on the same page guys.
I'm referring to the wires on the Sled. I've been searching the web for something
but haven't found anything that appeals to me yet.

My E-Bay is already made up and wired... I like the set up.

JP
 
I need to locate a retention device for the wires coming out of the Altimeter so they don't get
pulled on, the Blue and Orange wires... Any ideas?


JP


I drill 1/8in. [or whatever you can get 2 wires through] hole in sled, run a pair of wires through hole & out the bottom of sled.. then out to BP. You will need 2 holes for 2 pr. of wire.

Try pulling on them then....they don't budge and no worries about damaging the terminals on Alt.

Simple fix, been doing this for years.

In your case since everything is wired., just remove from terminals, drill holes...refish through bottom to top of sled and back into terminals.

DSCN1289.jpg
 
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I drill 1/8in. [or whatever you can get 2 wires through] hole in sled, run a pair of wires through hole & out the bottom of sled.. then out to BP. You will need 2 holes for 2 pr. of wire.

Try pulling on them then....they don't budge and no worries about damaging the terminals on Alt.

Simple fix, been doing this for years.

In your case since everything is wired., just remove from terminals, drill holes...refish through bottom to top of sled and back into terminals.
Nothing to buy! I can do that.
Looks like a great idea there, thanks!

JP
 
Making a little progress.
Ordered an Aerotech (54mm) K550W and a few 38mm H motors from RedArrowHobbies for the LOC IV.
https://www.redarrowhobbies.com/aerotech_38mm.htm
Magnum 3 Fillets.jpgMagnum 3 Tail with screws.jpgMagnum 3 painted 1.jpg
I used screws to fasten the Tail Cone instead of Epoxy in case there's a Nuclear Melt down!
Once it gets a clear coat it will Shine. Right now the Switch Band and Tail Cone are the only items that are Clear
Coated.

Can't decide about decals. I think I want the name "Magnum 3" on it. I thought about Flames too in the lettering
but not wrapped around the rocket. I don't know!
I've still got a few things to purchase so that can wait a little longer.

A Club member (Mike) has a 54mm case I can borrow, I hope it's a 1706 case. Got to call him up soon and see.

JP
 
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She's Beautiful!!!
I love the Looks of the Tail Cone and the clean looking Fillets. The Screws around the Tail Cone look killer too!
Nice Work.:clap:
 
She's Beautiful!!!
I love the Looks of the Tail Cone and the clean looking Fillets. The Screws around the Tail Cone look killer too!
Nice Work.:clap:
Thank you TR!
I've got many days in the making of the fillets!
It's hard to see in a photo but the black is Metallic. It should turn a little darker once I get it Clear Coated. Right
now it's got a Gray tint to it.

JP
 
I drill 1/8in. [or whatever you can get 2 wires through] hole in sled, run a pair of wires through hole & out the bottom of sled.. then out to BP. You will need 2 holes for 2 pr. of wire.

Try pulling on them then....they don't budge and no worries about damaging the terminals on Alt.

Simple fix, been doing this for years.

In your case since everything is wired., just remove from terminals, drill holes...refish through bottom to top of sled and back into terminals.
I drilled a few holes in the Sled for wiring and a few larger ones under each Altimeter, RRC2 Future installment...
I also used a RC "hinge" to fasten down one set of wires using short screws.
Magnum 3 RRC3 Av Bay.jpg

JP
 
Thanks TR.
Last night I drilled the nose cone for a Kevlar harness attachment point.
Tied two knots in each line and epoxied in place.
Magnum 3 nose cone Kevlar attachment point.jpg
Trying to decide on how many metal screws to put in the lower part of
the upper tube to hold it in place as the Main Chute is Blasted out.
I've got the small nylon screws for the nose cone to drill for too.

Are there many people that use 2 E-Matches per charge canister?
*Having one as a redundancy/back up...
JP

JP
 
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Got the LCD Terminal Module from Missile Works yesterday. Built a box for it
and even stained it with Rit dye. This will make Altimeter Life so much easier.
https://www.missileworks.com/store/#!/~/product/category=5895759&id=25232679
From Missile Works
Quote: "The LCDT eliminates the need to bring a laptop PC and provides immediate text and icon based displays that can be used to configure, review flight data and perform diagnostics". "The LCDT (LCD Terminal) belongs to m3 (Missile Works Mini Module) Component family, and provides a handy way to interact with the RRC3 altimeter and future Missile Works products on the launch field".
LCD from Missile Works.jpgLCD box.jpgLCD box 2.jpg
LCD box 3.jpgLCD box stained 1.jpgLCD box stained 2.jpg
Also I've installed wooden buttons for the upper tube where it's going to be hard screwed to the Av Bay. Since I didn't
want to cut the screws off, plus this gives them more surface area.
wood buttons.jpgMagnum 3 screw ends.jpgView attachment LCD Terminal Missile Works web site photo.bmp

JP
 
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Wow! That's really cool. I did'nt know they made something like that.
I didn't know either until I purchased the RRC3 Altimeter.

Installed Brass twist in pieces for the "hard points" into the nose cone. Used Epoxy to secure them as well.
I think the Brass pieces are 3-32 because the 2-56 nylon screws fit without threading, which is what I wanted so
after the break if any is holding on it can be pushed out.
Magnum 3 Hard Point in Nose Cone for BREAK.jpg

Tested the home made canisters today at 3.8 grains. Still have the testing to do on the rocket itself put together. I'm
waiting on the second Altimeter, the RRC2 from Missile Works.
https://www.missileworks.com/store/#!/~/product/category=6735554&id=28645468
RRC2 Missile Works.jpg

JP
JP
 
Tested the upper half today, that's the Nose Cone blasting off shearing the three 2-56 nylon screws.

I used 3.8 Grams of FFFF Goex Black Powder.
I may have written down Grains before, I'm a long time reloader-habbit I guess but it's Grams for the Black Powder charges.
I wrapped the shock cord in it's own Nomex Blanket and the Parachute that came in the kit, Not the New 8' Rocketman chute in the Black Kevlar supplied in the LOC kit.

The pyro charge of 3.8 Grams is aggressive for the upper half! I didn't expect it to tear apart the tape on the shock cord and
when it came to the end of the cord length it snapped back a little. The Kevlar Blanket around the shock cord now has a burned hole in it.
Apparently the end of the "Nomex" Blanket was resting against the charge canister! I've got to think of something to do about that. Suggestions welcome!
ADDED The Nomex cannot handle the fire like I thought it would. The Kevlar blanket has been placed directly on the charge canister 3 times now and Zero burns!
Tomorrow I'll try 3.4 Grams.
Magnum 3 Test one upper half main.jpgMagnum 3 Test Hole in Kevlar.jpg

JP
 
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I pulled the 3.4 Gram charge and went with 3 grams, then fired off a 2.5 gram charge which wasn't as dramatic
as the 3 gram but still everything was laid out to their ends.
This was for the upper half/Main Event.

The rain has put off testing of the lower half/apogee event.

Here's a couple of pics for your viewing pleasure.
Magnum 3 Missile Works Altimeters.jpgBoth Missile Works Altimeters fastened down.
https://www.missileworks.com/store/#!/~/category/id=5704272&offset=0&sort=normal
Magnum 3 testing charges upper half.jpg
Observe the loaded charge canister picture, it has 3 pieces of Electricians tape over it and 1 wrap around it. This
method has produced the most consistent charges.
I've tested this procedure using 2 pieces of tape with and without a wrap of tape. There were noticeable differences
in the BOOM and force delivered.

JP
 
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All the BP charges have been tested, many times. NOTE to self for Future rockets; attach the shock cord, otherwise
look for the rocket to "race" across your Yard!

Got the Clear Coat on the other day. It didn't come out as smooth as I would like so I may try and Buff it out a
bit or may just leave it alone, the Decals are not going anywhere now that's done.

I found some 9.6 Volt block batteries on Ebay for the Altimeters. They are running 10 Volts under a load so I'm
good there. They are a perfect fit into the battery trays I've got mounted.
MAG Apogee seperation nylon bolts x 2.jpgUsing two nylon screws for the Apogee section to Av bay, just in case there's
some drag going on. The metal shown has been inlaid and epoxied, helps cut the screws...
MAGNUM 3 Altimeters MISSILE WORKS.jpgMAG Clear Coat.jpg
Dog House Rocketry Altimeter Wiring Kit. Highly Recommend this kit!https://doghouse.blastzone.org/altimeter-kits.html
This is my first altimeter to install and wire. The kit makes it very easy to hook up everything the right way and they even give you a Great Wiring Example to go by using the colored wires. FIVE STARS!!!!! Dog House Rocketry

Still waiting on motor order. It's been over a Month!

JP
 
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Maybe this Month.
Got to study more for the Test...
I hope 40 mph is fast enough to stabilize the Magnum
Off the 8' rail! I suppose Open Rocket would tell me if it wasn't???

JP
 
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Maybe this Month.
Got to study more for the Test...
I hope 40 mph is fast enough to stabilize the Magnum
Off the 8' rail! I suppose Open Rocket would tell me if it wasn't???

JP
It won't tell you... I would think you would be fine though
 
JP,

As usual flawless work... I have sent you a few pms... hope to hear from you soon buddy...
 
Sorry guys, she's hasn't been launched yet! As of today, 10-08-2016.
Sometimes things get it in the way...
I'll update again if God's willing and the creek don't rise.
 
I generally run the ematch leads through holes in the bulkhead and then tie a granny knot on the inside so they won't put tension on the terminal block when pulled.
You happen to have pictures of this method?
 
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