The fabric weighs 145g/sm. 12 layers. Should be about 1/16" wall.
The fabric weighs 145g/sm. 12 layers. Should be about 1/16" wall.
Wow thats a lightweight fabric. Very pretty UNI too.
Why use mylar at all? Shrink tape can be used by itself as the release layer on tubing. Its meant to squeeze excess resin out, but it cant do it with the mylar there.
Very very intereted with this build. Carry on!
Alex
I agree it is rather pricey just something I noticed that I wanted to point out.
Silicone is pretty scary for anything you are going to have to bond and paint later. I wouldn't spray that any where near where you plan to paint or bond ever. I would use free kote or safe lease even johnson paste wax works pretty well.
Dangit! I think I knew that. Maybe you had mentioned it before. For the high temperature cure Safelease sounded like the best bet, but it was a large quantity and pricey. Maybe I can find someone who wants to sell a small quantity. Got any?
But looking into the Frekote just now I seem to be mistaken that it wont handle the high temps.
And when you say Johnson Past wax, you mean this stuff? https://www.homedepot.com/p/SC-Johnson-16-oz-Fine-Paste-Wood-Wax-00203/100154748
I have Partall #2, but I didn't think that was appropriate for the temperature.
I am pretty sure I have used that paste wax over 250F but its back in the hazy time part of my brain.
Freekote comes in lots of flavors and some are on amazon
https://www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/307199_LT4831_Frekote_Guide_Final_LR202359.pdf
you might be able to find some watershield
https://www.chemtrend.com/our_brands/zyvax/release_agents
It never hurts at ask for a sample if you can find a local rep.
I would be more concerned about fitting motors into your finished case. I did a layer of peel ply wrap on my 54mm airframe to make sure I could get CTI motors in as they bulge at the front edge.
Cancelled the Aircraft Spruce order (you can do that online, kinda cool) and ordered an aerosol can of Frekote 700nc from ACP.
The Frekote should work for you and the temperatures that you expect. I believe it was the 770nc, that we used recently, and it worked well for autoclave cured parts. When it came to the demoulding step, a reasonable nice aluminum mandrel worked better than a very nice steel mandrel - so I think your chances are good. My experience at this point is very anecdotical, though.
Reinhard
Do you have access to a lathe? If so, you could easily true up the OD after the fact. I assume the ridges are primarily resin and therefore it won't hurt your structure to machine it.
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