Multiple disposable plastic chutes in bulk?

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Kirk G

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Ideally, if you protect it, your plastic chute included in your kit will last forever....

but we all know that that's impractical. There are kit-eating trees out there, a recovery wadding failure, or a grassland landing on a windy day... all can produce rips, tears or damage to your chute.

So, I'm beginning to think that maybe I should but a bulk pack of ten or twelve of these plastic chutes to have on hand and replace on launch day if the need arises.

Where do you recommend I go to look for these?

I note that Semroc had a slightly more colorful and slightly larger one with the IRIS scale model I bought two years ago...but almost all the Estes kits have virtually the same one.

Anyone got a good lead or source for this type of bulk purchase?
How about shroud lines? For low-power rockets and these types of chutes, what do you recommend? Source? Quantity? Price?
 
Thank you for the link.
I searched on Ebay, and after seeing all the pretty nylon and multiple sized options, I remembered my intent was to have cheap, plastic replacements on hand...for me or for a friend, and the option to cut to size is most helpful for that. So, I ordered via Ebay , one pack of 10, and the shipping there was cheaper than through your website.
Thank you so much.

Now, the next question is about swivels. I hear that some guys prefer snap swivels so that the chute can spin without tangling the shroud lines. How important is this, and how heavy a swivel should I invest in? I think I can get a set of swivels in a plastic storage/dispensing case from the fishing department of the local walmart, but it seems pretty thin and not sure it'll stand up to the forces necessary.

What do you guys think?
 
For low power rockets, fishing swivels work fine. The brass ones can sometimes pop open from the force of the chute opening. I use "coast lock" swivels and haven't had any more problems. #5 or #7 are probably as big as you need for plastic chutes.
 
+1 to Bob's suggestion on the Coastlock swivels... and yeah you can get them in pretty much whatever size you want in the Walmart fishing dept... I don't usually go with the really small ones since they're a PITA to try to close and open with large hands/fingers. I usually get some "mid-size" ones that are easier to open and close. Really heavy ones are good for big rockets.

Now, the usual suspects in the peanut gallery will probably chime in with "you don't need coastlocks; I've NEVER seen a swivel pop open and dump a rocket from altitude... the brass ones are just fine." Well, I HAVE seen a swivel straighten out and turn loose and drop a rocket from altitude... I've had it happen personally and I've seen it before. Coastlocks will prevent that problem in most cases, but like most things, they're not completely bulletproof... If you have a heavy enough rocket moving fast enough and a large chute that opens too fast, something's gotta give.

As for cheap chutes, it's hard to beat trash bag chutes (plastic trash bags cut to hex or round or octagonal shapes) and use heavy thread from Walmart or JoAnns or Michaels or Hobby Lobby (just the heaviest thread you can find-- it used to be called "carpet thread" but if you ask for that now they just look at you like you're nuts...) Just cut your thread to a length 3 times the diameter of the chute, and go from one hole the next adjoining hole on the first line, and to the next holes further around on each side of the first two on successive shroud lines. When you get to the last one, it'll be the last two adjoining holes opposite the first one. This keeps all your lines parallel, and prevents crossed over lines, and really simplifies installing a swivel.

Of course there's also mylar party balloon chutes... those are basically free if you have some old party balloons available. I did a thread with lots of pics showing how to make them awhile back... What's nice about them, is that they usually have some sort of pic or graphic on them, and the mylar is very shiny and usually silver on the inside, making them highly reflective and catching the light and glinting in the sunlight on the way down and after landing... Of course the thread and pics work equally well for making chutes from trash bags as well...

Later and good luck! OL JR :)
 
As for cheap chutes, it's hard to beat trash bag chutes (plastic trash bags cut to hex or round or octagonal shapes)

They are not quite as inexpensive, but plastic table cloths provide good, brightly colored material for parachutes. The cheaper ones are often thinner and work better as 'chutes. Party stores often stock them in a wide range of colors.

... and use heavy thread from Walmart or JoAnns or Michaels or Hobby Lobby (just the heaviest thread you can find-- it used to be called "carpet thread" but if you ask for that now they just look at you like you're nuts...)

The Coats and Clark product is now called Button and Craft thread. I guess "craft" covers using the thread for parachutes.

Edit: Actually, it says "Craft and Button" on the spool.

-- Roger
 
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As for cheap chutes, it's hard to beat trash bag chutes (plastic trash bags cut to hex or round or octagonal shapes) and use heavy thread from Walmart or JoAnns or Michaels or Hobby Lobby (just the heaviest thread you can find-- it used to be called "carpet thread" but if you ask for that now they just look at you like you're nuts...) Just cut your thread to a length 3 times the diameter of the chute, and go from one hole the next adjoining hole on the first line, and to the next holes further around on each side of the first two on successive shroud lines. When you get to the last one, it'll be the last two adjoining holes opposite the first one. This keeps all your lines parallel, and prevents crossed over lines, and really simplifies installing a swivel.
Later and good luck! OL JR :)

I've made plenty of trash bag chutes in the past.
I'm not using as much now, the black plastic can warm up in direct sunlight and models stay in the air a little too long!
 
Now, the usual suspects in the peanut gallery will probably chime in with "you don't need coastlocks; I've NEVER seen a swivel pop open and dump a rocket from altitude... the brass ones are just fine."
Well, I have had the brass ones straighten out which is why I use coast lock swivels now.
 
Well, I have had the brass ones straighten out which is why I use coast lock swivels now.

Exactly... me too... and I too use the coastlocks for the same reason...

I saw some pics somewhere online of snap swivels mangled beyond all recognition by hard deployments... even coastlocks aren't totally immune, but they probably improve your chances by at least a 10:1 margin, probably more...

I know I've never had a coastlock fail me, where I have had the brass one straighten out... well worth the tiny additional money for that much "insurance" that the swivel won't be the "weakest link" when it comes to deployment...

Later! OL JR :)
 
I just made a bunch of chutes out of Mylar sheets I bought in a gift wrap section at Michaels --- it was called "foil tissue." I used braided (not twisted) nylon masons line, which seemed to work really well, causes fewer tangles, and comes in neon colors.

I like snap swivels for LPR. Have never used a coast lock swivel, but seems like a good idea. For all my BT80 LPR and my MPR, I've gone to nylon chutes, stainless swivels and quick links, and I really like working with them.
 
You can make chutes out of just about any Plastic bag available out there today. I use a lot of clear 1/4mil. Dry Cleaner bags or 1/4mil. Silver Mylar for LPR and competition PD models. Add a few Black and Red magic marker lines they are quite visible for a long long way.

Should lines I've stopped using Carpet thread, nylon and cotton threads all together. preferring now to use 13lb 2 strand Kevlar eliminating the burned shroud possibility. I get this stuff from Edmond Scientific on-line in 600yd spools for about 20bucks.

I DO NOT punch holes in my chutes which can cause easy tare outs. instead going "Old School" bending a U in the ends of my Shroud lines with a simple overhand knot about 1/2" from each end. Placed under a 1/2 Square of Silver Trim Monokote or Silver Mylar tape as "Tape Discs". Even on Egg loft models I've had very little shroud line failures using this method.

Comp Chutes-a_25mil, KevlarThread& tapestrips_08-27-06.jpg

Mylar Comp Chutes-d_knot & lloop shroud on tape square.jpg

Mylar Comp Chutes-e_Attach to corner and burnish.jpg

Snap Swivel Options_Std, BallBearing & HDBallBearing_02-12.jpg
 
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Should lines I've stopped using Carpet thread, nylon and cotton threads all together. preferring now to use 13lb 2 strand Kevlar eliminating the burned shroud possibility. I get this stuff from Edmond Scientific on-line in 600yd spools for about 20bucks.
I DO NOT punch holes in my chutes which can cause easy tare outs. instead going "Old School" bending a U in the ends of my Shroud lines with a simple overhand knot about 1/2" from each end. Placed under a 1/2 Square of Silver Trim Monokote or Silver Mylar tape as "Tape Discs". Even on Egg loft models I've had very little shroud line failures using this method.

That's pretty expensive, I use kite string.
I still punch holes and with the donut rings I don't get tare outs.
 
You can make chutes out of just about any Plastic bag available out there today. I use a lot of clear 1/4mil. Dry Cleaner bags or 1/4mil. Silver Mylar for LPR and competition PD models. Add a few Black and Red magic marker lines they are quite visible for a long long way.

Should lines I've stopped using Carpet thread, nylon and cotton threads all together. preferring now to use 13lb 2 strand Kevlar eliminating the burned shroud possibility. I get this stuff from Edmond Scientific on-line in 600yd spools for about 20bucks.

I DO NOT punch holes in my chutes which can cause easy tare outs. instead going "Old School" bending a U in the ends of my Shroud lines with a simple overhand knot about 1/2" from each end. Placed under a 1/2 Square of Silver Trim Monokote or Silver Mylar tape as "Tape Discs". Even on Egg loft models I've had very little shroud line failures using this method.

The little plastic hole reinforcing rings seem to work well for me and do not tear out easily. I remember when I was a kid, I occasionally had the thread pull away from the tape disk. (Although, I used to like using super long delays and having the chute pop open just before the rocket would have crashed! Crazy kids!)
 
I've gotten some pretty good deals off eBay for plastic parachutes, per unit cost was .21 cents each or 100 for $21. They are octagon in yellow and black with markings to cut them down by 1" increments. They were made in 1990 in Canada for QED Rocketry. I bought 2 packs of Avery rings at WallyWorld pretty cheap. I got the white ones but I'm looking for the clear ones, think I'll have to go to Staples or the like for them. I bought a spool of crochet' thread for shrouds then a spool of Spectra Braid at 6 lb test, orange in color and both stronger and finer than the crochet' thread.

When I'm bored I'll take a few out and make them up. Quite honestly I can see a day when I'll use them up, might take a while but I will use them all...someday :)
 
That's pretty expensive, I use kite string.
I still punch holes and with the donut rings I don't get tare outs.

You can cut dozens of different flat plastic chute canopies from a single 1/4mil dry cleaners bag. and they are almost always FREE. I've even ask if I could have a few extras when picking up things from the Cleaner. They are usually happy to give me several on the spot. 1/4mil Mylar sheeting is getting harder to find but 1/2mil silver mylar Space blankets are readily available from sporting good shops they and most package wrapping "paper" mylar from the Party Store suppliers make excellent and colorful chutes, As to used mylar balloons.

Expensive is in the eyes of the beholder: When it comes to Keeping my models recovery system in one piece a few extra cents or even dollars are well worth it. Chrome Silver Adhesive Backed Trim Monokote is Way more expensive then Paper reinforcing "donut" tape discs. but one need not worry about the adhesive drying out and failing with the Monokote or silver giftwrap tapes. Being penny wise proves Pound foolish when your Cheapy Chute burns off or tears out several shrouds becoming an instant streamer instead of gently bringing our models back for another flight.

When it comes to Kevlar shroud line thread the few Pennies more are more than worth it to me to Not have to worry about burning off thread shrouds or ripping out corners even on heavier, late opening models. Seems very club launch I'm repairing one or two other flyers models broken fins and/or replacing chutes with ripped out punched hole donut ring tape discs. Cotton shroud line thread and maybe the donut hole discs should be banned from flying model hobby use.

I mean really all one has to do to prevent a looped shroud line from pulling free from a flat "Good Adhesive Backed" disc is to tie an overhand knot about 1/2" for the ends placed under the disc and burnished down with your finger.

OBTW someone mentioned using "Spider Wire" as shroud lines. VERY Bad choice...Spider Wire is Super sensitive to HEAT, even a tiny amount is enough to snap(melt) it. Great stuff for fishing...Lousy for anything with model rockets or near any heat source what so ever.
 
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DIY chutes out of trash bags or thin-film poly tablecloths are a snap.

You can usually buy the tablecloths at the dollar store (one tablecloth will make a dozen 'chutes if you cut reasonably closely. Plus whatever leftover plastic scraps you have you can make into streamers) and they usually have a heavier string in their hardware section too for shroud lines.

I usually use adhesive-label paper as the mounting tabs for the shroud lines. You can make pretty much all the LPR chutes you'll need for a couple of years for a couple of bucks.
 
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Alright. What is a Coast Lock Swivel? Anyone got a picture of one? Where does one buy such a thing?
And, is it already pictured in post #12 above, by any chance?

(Small brass swivels, I already got. However, my daughter seems to think that anything related to bending wire, threading beads or using swivels, is her personal property, and so, has taken my plastic dispenser of swivels that I bought from the fishing dept in Wal=Mart THREE TIMES NOW!)
 
Alright. What is a Coast Lock Swivel? Anyone got a picture of one? Where does one buy such a thing?
And, is it already pictured in post #12 above, by any chance?

(Small brass swivels, I already got. However, my daughter seems to think that anything related to bending wire, threading beads or using swivels, is her personal property, and so, has taken my plastic dispenser of swivels that I bought from the fishing dept in Wal=Mart THREE TIMES NOW!)

You can do a quick yahoo search of coastlock swivels and get a ton of pics, or search for them at cabelas.com or whatever your favorite outdoor sporting goods store happens to be and find lots of pics of them. Basically they're a swivel with a locking hook or tab that engages the latching part of the swivel loop to prevent them from "springing open" when pulled hard...

The regular straight-hook brass ones that are closed by slipping the straight end of the hook behind a "latch" on the swivel can come undone under load... if the loop is pulled hard and fast enough, like in a hard deploy of the chute late in the flight at high speed, the loop will actually lengthen until the straight end of the hook pops out of the latch, and then the unsecured loop will spring open enough most of the time to allow the screw eye or shock cord loop completely slip out of the swivel hook loop and separate...

Coastlocks, with their latch on the end of the loop, cannot slip out of the latch or loop back and latch to themselves... basically they tighten as they try to pop open, preventing them from popping open.

Later! OL JR :)
 
You can cut dozens of different flat plastic chute canopies from a single 1/4mil dry cleaners bag. and they are almost always FREE. I've even ask if I could have a few extras when picking up things from the Cleaner. 1/4mil Mylar sheeting is getting harder to find but 1/2mil silver mylar Space blankets are readily available from sporting good shops they and most package wrapping "paper" mylar from the Party Store suppliers make excellent and colorful chutes, As to used mylar balloons.

Expensive is in the eyes of the beholder: When it comes to Keeping my models recovery system in one piece a few extra cents or even dollars are well worth it. Chrome Silver Adhesive Backed Trim Monokote is Way more expensive then Paper reinforcing "donut" tape discs. but one need not worry about the adhesive drying out and failing with the Monokote or silver giftwrap tapes. Being penny wise proves Pound foolish when your Cheapy Chute burns off or tears out several shrouds becoming an instant streamer instead of gently bringing our models back for another flight.

When it comes to Kevlar shroud line thread the few Pennies more are more than worth it to me to Not have to worry about burning off thread shrouds or ripping out corners even on heavier, late opening models. Seems very club launch I'm repairing one or two other flyers models broken fins and/or replacing chutes with ripped out punched hole donut ring tape discs. Cotton shroud line thread and maybe the donut hole discs should be banned from flying model hobby use.

I mean really all one has to do to prevent a looped shroud line from pulling free from a flat "Good Adhesive Backed" disc is to tie an overhand knot about 1/2" for the ends placed under the disc and burnished down with your finger.

OBTW someone mentioned using "Spider Wire" as shroud lines. VERY Bad choice...Spider Wire is Super sensitive to HEAT, even a tiny amount is enough to snap(melt) it. Great stuff for fishing...Lousy for anything with model rockets or near any heat source what so ever.

I'm not foolish.
1/4 mil dry cleaner bags are too thin. Mylar rips and and tears easy.
I don't use paper donut rings. Plastic rings don't rip! I've never had the adhesive dry out on the Avery plastic rings.
If cotton thread and donut rings were "banned from flying model hobby use" you'd be the only one left flying! LOL
After many flights I've never had a shroud line pull out, burn through or tare off of a parachute.
 
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I'll add, just for the record, mylar is one of the only tips I have ever picked up at TRF that has been an abject failure. Maybe I did something wrong. I got mylar from a camping emergency blanket, I tried party balloons. It's gets memory creases, difficult to pack, difficult to unpack (deploy), and rips if you look at it funny. When it rips, mylar seems to have a mind of its own, which is convinced there's some sort of emergency to keep up this ripping process as fast as possible and to the extent of the material.
 
I'm not foolish.
1/4 mil dry cleaner bags are too thin. Mylar rips and and tears easy.
I don't use paper donut rings. Plastic rings don't rip! I've never had the adhesive dry out on the Avery plastic rings.
If cotton thread and donut rings were "banned from flying model hobby use" you'd be the only one left flying! LOL
After many flights I've never had a shroud line pull out, burn through or tare off of a parachute.


I hate to burst your misinformed bubble; But Competition and Sport flying modelers have been using 1/4mil Aluminized Mylar and Dry Cleaner bag Chutes for at least 35-40 years. They are absolutely NOT too thin from most model rocket flying. NO; they are not ment or intended for MPR or HPR use but the OP was not asking about chutes for those type models.

Actually I prefer 1/4mil dry cleaner bag over 1/4mil Aluminized mylar (NOT Space or emergency blankets which by the way are at least 1/2mil and do tend to rip easily) because larger chutes up to 48" can be packed in much tighter spaces like a BT-20 body tube. Marry these canopies with 2 strand 13lb Kevlar thread shrouds and chrome trim monokote 3/8" or 1/2" tape discs you'll have some really outstanding PD and other duration flights.

Many of my club members and I have been flying 1/4mil chutes for decades. DO You Really think we'd still be doing so if the Failed often? In model up to and including 1 pound, 1/4mil mylar and 1/4mil Dry Cleaner bag plastic make PERFECT chute canopies. After a couple flights both materials tend to take on a "Semi-Hemi" canopy shape increasing their duration characteristics. Many of us Routinely use 24" to 36" 1/4Mil mylar and dry cleaner plastic chutes on Egg and Dual Egg-loft models with over the top shroud-lines.

Don't dis what you don't understand or can't comprehend... Get with an experienced competition flyer and let them SHOW you how to prepare, pack and fly these very useful and easily made Long lasting chutes.

I don't really care how one attaches their Shroud lines to the canopy;(tape discs, tape rings or what-have-you) as long as we do not introduce a HOLE in the material. Putting a hole in ANY plastic, mylar or any material except fabric is a sure way to create damage to your chutes and more then likely the model its supposed to bring back for another flight. In this instance we must use our Heads for something other then a Hat rack.

When it comes to snap Swivels, barrel swivels and the like. on most competition chutes terminal tackle is generally not used because of weight. we just tie them directly to the shock-line or payload. If Sport flying chutes I like #14 for chutes to about 24", #2 for Nylon hemi's to 60" and Ball Bearing Swivels on heavier MPR chutes. The Ol'e standard brass snap swivel can be used on most LPR model rockets but can if severely overloaded by way late ejection (Bad Motor Choice) Straighten out. The newer Locking snap swivels are a good bit better for our use.

Snap Swivel Options_Std, BallBearing & HDBallBearing_02-12.jpg
 
Ya know Micro, it might be nice to try to make your point without being condescending and insulting...

You catch more flies with honey than vinegar ya know... :)

Later! OL JR :)

PS. I find that "poking holes in the canopy" FAR more reliable than any goofy "knots under tape dots" and other such methods common back in the 80's when I was a teenager... those silly Estes tape dots would either dry out and turn loose, or the string would simply rip out from under them when you least expected it... since returning to rocketry nearly a decade ago, I've had ZERO failures with shrouds tied through ring or tape reinforced loops though a hole in the canopy edge, so long as that hole is at least 1/2 inch from the edge of the material itself...

Of course, YMMV... and if one's preferred methods and materials run into tape dots with the shrouds under them, well, that works too...

Point is, ANYTHING will fail if stressed sufficiently... REGARDLESS of material or method used...
 
Your qwotes are in " "

"I hate to burst your misinformed bubble . . ."
Ruh-rho!

"Actually I prefer 1/4mil dry cleaner bag . . . "
That's okay! Use what works for you.

"Marry these canopies with 2 strand 13lb Kevlar thread shrouds and chrome trim monokote 3/8" or 1/2" tape discs you'll have some really outstanding PD and other duration flights."
I dont fly competition. I think the original post was about regular kit style parachutes in bulk.

"DO You Really think we'd still be doing so if the Failed often?"
All I know is what I've done and had sucess with. I don't speak for others.

"Don't dis what you don't understand or can't comprehend... "
I don't dis what works for others. I do comprahend what I've read in your responses.

"I don't really care how one attaches their Shroud lines to the canopy;(tape discs, tape rings or what-have-you) as long as we do not introduce a HOLE in the material. Putting a hole in ANY plastic, mylar or any material except fabric is a sure way to create damage to your chutes and more then likely the model its supposed to bring back for another flight."
If you really don't care than why are you making a big deal out of it?
I put a HOLE in the parachute in the middle of a plastic ring and tie on the shrowd line. It works great for me!
Never had one pull out or tare. Really, never! It works for a lot of rocket companys.

"In this instance we must use our Heads for something other then a Hat rack."
A Hat rack? Really.

Im new to this forum but not to rockets.
 
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PS. I find that "poking holes in the canopy" FAR more reliable than any goofy "knots under tape dots" and other such methods common back in the 80's when I was a teenager... those silly Estes tape dots would either dry out and turn loose, or the string would simply rip out from under them when you least expected it... since returning to rocketry nearly a decade ago, I've had ZERO failures with shrouds tied through ring or tape reinforced loops though a hole in the canopy edge, so long as that hole is at least 1/2 inch from the edge of the material itself...
Of course, YMMV... and if one's preferred methods and materials run into tape dots with the shrouds under them, well, that works too...
Point is, ANYTHING will fail if stressed sufficiently... REGARDLESS of material or method used...

YAY! (goofy knots . . LOL!)
 
OBTW someone mentioned using "Spider Wire" as shroud lines. VERY Bad choice...Spider Wire is Super sensitive to HEAT, even a tiny amount is enough to snap(melt) it.

I used it all the time in the past without any melting problems. I eventually switched over to a different material to get more flexibility in the shroud lines.
 
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