Rocketry Warehouse 4 inch Nike-Smoke Build Thread

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gdjsky01

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I learned that there might be a Nike-Smoke theme at the Summer ROC-Stock. Peoples were talking about Polecat, or Madcow, or whatnot. I fell back on my great experiences with Rocketry Warehouse products. I have a Quest Nike-Smoke, a Madcow 2.6 inch NS, and an Estes 3 inch NS. So I went for the 4.0 RW Nike-Smoke as it's not a budget buster at $150.

I don't have a parts picture tho somewhere along the way I upload a picture of the washed parts. Maybe on Faceplate.

The quality I think is excellent. The nose cone is beefy and the seams are negligible. They should be easy to clean up. The nose cone does not have the 3 plates at the base molded in but those are easily added using card stock if you care. I might. I might not.

The fins appear to be two gel coated FG shells joined together and filled foam. They have a bit of a seam to clean up. I'll get a photo or two of those later.

Otherwise the kit is bare bone which I expected for $150. Two centering rings, a 12 inch 54mm MMT and a bulk plate for the nose cone. A single exploded parts illustration is the instructions. No matter... this was all expected.


 
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Like all my RW builds the NS will be built for dual deploy using an altimeter in the nose, motor eject at apogee, and an Archetype Rocketry Cable cutter to release the main.

To do that I mount 1/4-20 rod in the nose and add a coupler bulkhead plate to the provided body tube bulk plate. When glued together and screwed on to the 1/4-20 rod via an 'eye-nut', they will seal the nose cone.

The altimeter sled rides on the 1/4-20 rod. I will be drilling a hole in the nose cone for the switch, but hand painted white, most won't notice or will forgive the transgression.


So I went to my $10 RW fiberglass 'grab box' and found a 3 inch cut out.
I grabbed a cutoff piece of the 1/4-20 threaded rod, two washers, a lock washer, and two nuts.
Those items were assembled on one end and test fitted. Once fitted and tightened, a bit of epoxy is slathered on both nuts.
Then18g of System III epoxy was bulked up a bit with silica thickener and poured on top of the fitted assembly.

This should make things clear (Note the rod has nuts on both sides so it did not have to be the full length of the nose cone).
2014-04-15-Nike-Smoke-4.0-0001.jpg 2014-04-16-Nike-Smoke-4.0-0008.jpg

Here's a photo of the two bulk plates, one a 4 inch tube plate, the other a 4 inch coupler plate
2014-04-15-Nike-Smoke-4.0-0003.jpg

Here's a plate taped to hold the rod centered until the epoxy cures overnight.
capiche?

:grin:
2014-04-15-Nike-Smoke-4.0-0004.jpg
 
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And voila!

2014-04-16-Nike-Smoke-4.0-0008.jpg

Yeah there is a leaky gap there. I'll patch that up.

Notice I dremeled the inside rim of the nose. That is to allow the coupler bulk plate to fit.
 

The next thing I worked on was the motor mount and the harness anchor. The anchor is a forged eye bolt. It was a bit long but what the heck... you can see where I used some keval cord to tie up the protector below the ring of the eye bolt. Hopefully that'll work.

I used that dreadful epoxy from Aircraft Spruce. But I'll give it one redeeming quality, it stays exactly where you put it. :)

2014-04-15-Nike-Smoke-4.0-0005.jpg 2014-04-16-Nike-Smoke-4.0-0006.jpg 2014-04-16-Nike-Smoke-4.0-0007.jpg

I sanded the other centering ring to be loose in the tube so I can use it to center the MMT when I glue it up and yet still use that tape to pull it back out.

I am using an Aeropack retainer. And the Missileworks RRC2+ came today for it.

So that is where it's at. Did most of it last week since I had the Cadio Cath this week... Just getting back on my pace...


That's the Estes nose cone laying on the table. It just finished drying.
 
Subscribed. Always love to follow your builds. I've been thinking its time for me to commit to doing a build thread again.
I'm working on the 2.6 Madcow Nike Smoke with my son ( it's his rocket so I am trying to let him lead) and have used some of your build thread to help keep him from wanting to do it all in 1 night.

If you are taking requests, I would like to see your layout with the cable cutter when you get there. I have seen you have had a high success rate and would like to mimic how you set it up.
 
Sure. I had two more successes a few weeks ago. The Formula 98 to 5200' (J760) and the Dagger 38 to 2300' (J350).

You know I did do a video a while back? I may have changed things up a bit... I'll have to see if it needs updating...


[video=youtube;5QGznnvJNQc]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5QGznnvJNQc[/video]
 
Awesome video. Not sure how I missed it before. I like your emphasis on watching out for strain relief of the lighter wire. I wouldn't have thought of the wrap at the eyebolt and I could see that as a potential failure point. Again nicely done, I will reference that video again. I think I need to spend a bit more timing bundling my chutes, as they don't look anywhere near as good as yours.

Thanks again for re -posting.
 
Jeff, where to place your altimeter "breathing" ports on the nosecone?

I'm finally getting around to doing the nose cone alt bays in a couple of my birds.

BTW, good idea of tying the shock cord protective sleeve down below the eye of the forged bolt. I use those same forged bolts most of the time, too.
 
I measure the nose cone shoulder. I mark the body tube maybe a 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch above where the shoulder will end. I place the nose cone in the body tube. And drill through my marks. Because I am never that precise, I place 'registration' marks on the inside of the BT and the outside of the shoulder so that I always get them lined up the way I drilled them.

So the nose cone is vented as far away from the nose/body as I can. It seems to work... just make sure one last time when you arm it, the holes are lined up.

 
I measure the nose cone shoulder. I mark the body tube maybe a 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch above where the shoulder will end. I place the nose cone in the body tube. And drill through my marks. Because I am never that precise, I place 'registration' marks on the inside of the BT and the outside of the shoulder so that I always get them lined up the way I drilled them.

So the nose cone is vented as far away from the nose/body as I can. It seems to work... just make sure one last time when you arm it, the holes are lined up.


That's what I was thinking, too. You don't want them near the body tube/nose cone transition. I've heard 1/4" to 1" depending on the size of the rocket. When the altimeter bay is way up north in the nose cone, the vents get drilled into the nosecone that same 1/4 to 1" distance above the joint.

Thanks.
 
Looking good, Jeff. Any idea which paint scheme you'll go with?
 
So here you have the two bulk plates and you can see how they fit in the dremeled area of the nose cone shoulder.

2014-04-16-Nike-Smoke-4.0-0009.jpg

Next I have the two glued to together. I use a bolt with two nuts to keep them centered. Of course I rough sanded them before joining.
And the terminals being epoxied down and clamped. Note that the epoxy is intentionally slobbered over the ends to help hold them in place... and of course everything was rough sanded yada yada yada.

2014-04-16-Nike-Smoke-4.0-0001.jpg

2014-04-16-Nike-Smoke-4.0-0006-2.jpg

I only need one set of terminals for motor deploy at apogee. However I installed two. If I fly someone's EX motor with no ejection charge I have the option of providing an apogee charge under the chute bundle.
 
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Here's a picture of the nose cone base. It fits perfect. Now to drill the holes and run the leads. I pot the holes with epoxy once the leads are run. Also you can see I don't have enough thread for my usual lock washer. I could use a star washer underneath. However I think I'll drill a pilot hole and thread in a small screw eye. Then I can safety wire the eye nut to it.

2014-04-17-Nike-Smoke-4.0-0001.jpg


Fit is perfect...
2014-04-17-Nike-Smoke-4.0-0002.jpg

Okay here's something I didn't catch. The fin tabs are way too long (well about a 1/4 inch). It could be the kit was or is sold in a 38mm Motor Mount version as well. Looks like I'll have to do some measuring and cutting. Not welcome, but not impossible. :)

It will definitely slow me down a bit... :surprised:

2014-04-17-Nike-Smoke-4.0-0003.jpg
 
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Okay here's something I didn't catch. The fin tabs are way too long (well about a 1/4 inch). It could be the kit was or is sold in a 38mm version as well. Looks like I'll have to do some measuring and cutting. Not welcome, but not impossible. :)

It will definitely slow me down a bit... :surprised:

Wow, not good. Shouldn't have left the vendor's shipping dock like that.
 
Well I went three for four... :eyeroll: :bangpan: :facepalm:

2014-04-17-Nike-Smoke-4.0-0003-2.jpg


The four will need that little starbucks stir stick and a tad of sanding... no worries, by the time it's filleted, it'll be plenty strong.

 
I made the holes to run the leads in the nose cone bulk plate, and mounted a screw to use as a post when safety wiring the eye-nut.
Got the battery holder and RRC2+ mounted. Still need to solder it up, and drill holes for the ty wrap used on the battery. Pay no attention to the 'Up' writing. I am recycling an old sled.
2014-04-17-Nike-Smoke-4.0-0002-2.jpg

Note the broken screw eye. G10 just ain't the right material for this. :)

My hi-tech wire twister. :facepalm:
2014-04-17-Nike-Smoke-4.0-0001-2.jpg
 
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Fantastic photo and rocket Dave! Thanks for posting! Just flew a J760 a few weeks ago in my RW Formula 98. What was the altitude?
 
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4600' with a J760 and 6100' with a K940 and a 12" extended payload section. Both are GREAT motors!
 
Thank you. Yes the J760 is 14ns short of a full J (1266 vs 1280). Did you reinforce yours in anyway?
I have a few K550s and a few K456s. I have the 54XL CTI case and spacers, but it's WAY too long. I'd have to borrow a 4 or 5 grain case to fly some of the bigger CTI K's
 
Sorry for joining late. Jeff, thanks a lot for the video in post #6. I've been wanting to try cable cutters and after seeing that video, I'm all ready to put on up.

Kevin
 
Jeff, All the Nike Smoke fin tabs come long, its so the user can put whatever MM in they want. My 1/3 Scale Nike Smoke I had to cut as well as I opted for the 75mm MM.

View attachment 169393


Thanks Gary. Holy Crap! Your ARE smiling! I figured 38mm MMT was the smallest. And that the tabs were fitted for the smallest. No worries. Fins are curing as we speak. I wish the Rocketry Warehouse was online more. It's a great lineup of kits. And I want my discount for helping sell so many! :lol:

Sorry for joining late. Jeff, thanks a lot for the video in post #6. I've been wanting to try cable cutters and after seeing that video, I'm all ready to put on up.

Kevin

Kevin don't forget there is a video from Archetype Rocketry. He did his chute differently, and so you might want to view it as well. I am 20 for 22. One MIGHT not have cut it, but it was darn sure cut when I got to the rocket. So that could be it was almost cut and hitting the ground broke it, or it just did not 'spring' open. The other the chute streamered. Hardly the cutters fault. Inspect the aluminum pistons carefully. I hate that they now cost 2.50 a piece but I wouldn't use a side more than 2 times. I've done it 3 or 4, but I think I was pushing my lucky mightily. :y:

Just remember, unless you are using a charge to eject the bundle, you are counting on the motor to do it. So make sure the bundle is not too tight OR stuff Mo BP in the ejection well. Blow it out, or blow it up. Cause with a cutter, if the bundle ain't out, the result will be the same! :lol:
 
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Also make sure you check for deformation of the piston. Even with an O-Ring Bumper, they can deform and not slide well anymore.

I am sure the SS pistons are most durable. But they are also $5.... still they may be worth the extra $$$.


I love the thing because to me its seems to simplify the building of the rocket and the prep. Especially when using motor eject. That said, when you get up to certain sizes A) you can not have motor eject, and B) you'll need redundant cutters to be safe.

Like I will use charges (twin) to eject the bundle on my L3 and have redundant cutters on the ty wrap. All hooked up to two separate altimeters. Probably a RR2+ and a PF SL100
 
Thank you. Yes the J760 is 14ns short of a full J (1266 vs 1280). Did you reinforce yours in anyway?
I have a few K550s and a few K456s. I have the 54XL CTI case and spacers, but it's WAY too long. I'd have to borrow a 4 or 5 grain case to fly some of the bigger CTI K's

The fins appeared a bit 'soft' due to the internal foam so I put a 1/8" G10 spine down the center of them to make it a bit stronger. I just used a knife to carve out some foam to slide the 1" x 4.5" 'spine' of G10 into the center of each fin and epoxied them in place.
I did my usual fin to motor mount fillets as well as fin to internal body tube and external fin to body tube fillets with cab-o-sil.
My CTI 6 grain case fits without any issue. Even the 6XL should fit but not much room to spare.
 
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