PSA: Stay away from Valspar spray paint from Lowes

Bat-mite said:

I used paint/primer combo on my Radial Flyer. Looked great on the canvas phenolic, not so great on the nose cone. I lightly sanded the NC, used adhesion promoter, and the paint/primer combo (Rusto) on it. I wish now that I had used a good filler primer on the NC.

And even with the adhesion promoter, the paint flakes off the NC.

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Did you wash NC with dish soap, rinse and then wipe with acetone before sanding?

But yes, I always then use filler-primer after adhesion promoter. Then move to base coat (white flat primer or paint) then finally the finish coat.

dixontj93060 said:

Did you wash NC with dish soap, rinse and then wipe with acetone before sanding?

But yes, I always then use filler-primer after adhesion promoter. Then move to base coat (white flat primer or paint) then finally the finish coat.

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No acetone, but yes, washed with soap and water. Let dry for days. Sanded, wiped down. Adhesion promoter. Paint.

Since I posted this I've used Rusto 2X paints almost exclusively and haven't had any problems. On my last build I used Duplicolor Engine Paint and it covered better than the 2X, but it is thinner so you have to use lighter coats. It also dries to the touch much quicker (around 15-30 minutes). It dries so fast that I had to put a canopy up to keep it out of the sun because even in 68F weather it was drying before it had time to level out.

I agree, Rusto (especially 2X formula) cans sometimes clog. I use Rusto a lot. In about 10% of the cans I have some sort of problem. This is a high failure rate, but with some finesse you can get through most of the issues. I have seen three basic problems...

1. The nozzle clogs (about 50% of faults)
2. The feed tube clogs (about 30% of faults)
3. Lack of aerosol "oomph" (about 20% of faults)

For number one there is a great solution. Buy these to have on hand. These are about 35 cents a piece and are invaluable if you have a bum nozzle. Switch it out and get a nice misty spray. In fact, you may choose only to use these nozzles.

For number two, it seems like there is just too much thick enamel solids in the bottom of the can. First thing to try is to turn the can over. Many times the Rusto can will still work and in fact functions well with the can inverted. I think you get more of the liquid and less of the solids this way, but not sure.

For number three, tough issue. Try number one as I believe you need less pressure to get good coverage with the graffiti nozzles, but if both #1 and #2 don't work you are usually hosed. Keep your receipt. I have never had Menards turn me down on a return.

If you plan on using a single can of spray paint on more than one occasion, the likelihood of nozzle clogs increases dramatically. To prevent this, (as stated on the can) tilt the can upside down and spray for 3-5 seconds. This will let out any remaining paint in the nozzle, and decrease the chance of the nozzle clogging again.

Hope this helps,

Daniel

I use the "Original" spray Kilz for inital priming, let dry 4 hours or more, sand and Kilz again until smooth. That stuff is hard as nails once cured and fills more imperfections. I dust with cloths lightly soaked with denatured alcohol.

Next primer coat is regular Krylon primer, not all in one. I use a color that is closer to the final but i mostly use white or gray. Paint, sand, dust, paint...you get the picture.

My final coats with regular Krylon. I've used the primer crap in one with white and looks great but prefer the standard Krylon. I keep a dampened cloth of denatured alcohol nearby when I finish a coat, invert can, spray to clear the tip and wipe the nozzle clean. You'll have very little trouble with clogging and splatter.

I paint ALL of my rockets that way with good results. You can apply vinyl lettering and graphics, scuff ever so lightly and spray with Krylon clear to protect better.

Nuttin' but Kilz and Krylon.....

One tangential note:

The Valspar LACQUER from Lowes is just fine. They only have it in white, black, gloss clear, and I think red. I've used the clear as my go-to clearcoat (when not using Future for that purpose) and it has always worked fine. The white/black have also been staples, just used less frequently by me.

It's their enamels that suck...