PSA: Stay away from Valspar spray paint from Lowes

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ChrisAttebery

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Hopefully I can save some of you the headaches I've been dealing with for the last couple weeks. I bought several cans of Valspar spray paint and primer from Lowes to paint my rockets. It covers great but after 3-4 weeks the paint is not fully cured. The directions say to apply it between 65-90F. It's been in the mid to upper 60s at my house for the last few weeks. It's been in the upper 70s and low 80s a couple days too. We flew my Leviathan that I painted before March 15th this weekend and I managed to leave finger and blue jean prints on portions of the rocket. I've had to repaint my daughter's rocket because the masking tape left imprints on it too. I only use 3M Blue and Tamiya masking tape, so it's not like I'm using cheap materials.
 
Yeah I gave up on valspar when the went to those totally crappy twist lock nozzles... Those things belong on a can of air freshener, not spray paint...

Thanks for the heads up tho...

OL JR
 
I had a rocket that was part Valspar Orange. From painting to tree food, ~9 month period, the orange never fully cured. Also, the spray sunblock that I use on the kids solublized it. Orange fingerprints everywhere! Complete and total crap to be avoided at all costs. I've been very happy with the Rustoleum Professional and 2X paints. Except the yellow, but all yellow paint sucks.
 
OH that's interesting, because I did spray myself with Neutrogena sunscreen on Saturday, but I used a baby wipe on my hands afterward.

I went to HD and bought 7 cans of Rustoleum 2x yesterday. They stuff was dry to the touch in a couple hours.
 
Valspar used to have some good stuff... Tractor supply sold the regular nozzle cans for a while after the hardware stuff all went to air freshener nozzles.... Then I guess the contract expired and TSC got a better deal elsewhere or valspar didn't renew so now they sell "magik" brand paints...

Later! OL JR
 
That's a shame about Valspar - I painted my first several rockets with it (some 4 years ago) and it was pretty good. I later switched to Rustoleum for enamels, which I still use, and am pretty happy with it. I painted some white this weekend, and it was completely dry to the touch overnight. I still like to wait a week or so with enamels, just to let them cure before masking.
 
I too had good experience with Valspar but then something changed.....and now it won' cure for me either. So I've gone to the Rustoleum 2x stuff, mostly.
 
Sorry to hear about your troubles with the paint, Chris. That Leviathan turned out great, and it's too bad if it sustained damage simply due to uncured paint. I've had pretty good results with the Rustoleum 2x Painters Touch. But I've even had longer cure times with those than expected. I've had a few pick up finger prints a few days after painting. Usually it is when I've put on multiple coats quickly.

Right now I am trying to get a few rockets painted before next Saturday's launch at Moffett, and the problem is I am going to be out of town Wednesday and Thursday, so my best bet is to get everything painted by tomorrow. I put a color coat on today before 11 am. I'm hoping it will be good to mask and put on a second color tomorrow. How can I be sure?
 
I've used a propane heater in the past to warm up the garage *BEFORE* I started painting.

It should be warm enough that you shouldn't have any trouble, but SHOULDN'T isn't the same as WON'T. :facepalm:
 
I've used a propane heater in the past to warm up the garage *BEFORE* I started painting.

It should be warm enough that you shouldn't have any trouble, but SHOULDN'T isn't the same as WON'T. :facepalm:

It was a reasonably warm day today, and I put the rockets out in the sun after a few hours when they had dried to the touch, so they spent most of the afternoon being baked. I'm thinking it would be better to mask them and paint them tomorrow afternoon, even if that is just over a 24-hour cure, rather than do it Friday and bring them to the Saturday launch. I don't like the idea of masking potentially soft paint, but I like the idea of bringing soft paint to the launch even less. Really, I just wish I had started building earlier...
 
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I have yet to have trouble with Valspar. I fix the airfreshner cap by splitting and removing it, or more correctly the outer part of it. The button stays behind and it sprays just fine.
I am wondering if you are grabbing a can of paint that is too cold. Just because the air temp is 65F, the paint in your garage may still be at 50F. On marginal days I put the can out in the sun to heat, then also after spraying the paint, leave the rocket in the sun as long as possible.
I put the rocket in an oven of sorts to cure it. My oven is just a small room in the house where I place an electric heater, then shut the door. Get the room nice and toasty, turn the heater off, put the rockets in and shut the door. The next morning the paint is cured, no problem. Using this method requires an area or handle of sorts where one can lift/carry the rocket without touching the paint. I still wait a few days to a week for full cure between colors, but the rocket can be handled.

That being said, yes, Rusto or Rusto 2X is much better paint, tho I bake cure it the same way during the cooler months.
 
Any recommendations on how to free up a frozen or clogged spray can nozzle? Especially the valspar air freshener variety? I'm loosing more than half the can, each time that I buy one.
 
I used Valspar "Gold Abundance" (are some of these names even colors?) and it definitely dried and was a great color, but seemed a bit soft and tacky. Did last sanding with a bit of wetness to keep it from making tiny paint balls on the sandpaper. Also they describe it as a Primer and Paint. Whatever primer qualities it may have, opaqueness isn't one of them. Smelly too.
 
The few Valspar lacquers tend to do well for me, when I use anything other than airbrush acrylics. Valspar clear lacquer is my go-to clear. Also good results with White and Black.

I've been "done" with enamel spraypaints for years.

And I agree, the new Valspar twist cap thing sucks.

Marc
 
I have yet to have trouble with Valspar. I fix the airfreshner cap by splitting and removing it, or more correctly the outer part of it. The button stays behind and it sprays just fine.
I am wondering if you are grabbing a can of paint that is too cold. Just because the air temp is 65F, the paint in your garage may still be at 50F. On marginal days I put the can out in the sun to heat, then also after spraying the paint, leave the rocket in the sun as long as possible.
I put the rocket in an oven of sorts to cure it. My oven is just a small room in the house where I place an electric heater, then shut the door. Get the room nice and toasty, turn the heater off, put the rockets in and shut the door. The next morning the paint is cured, no problem. Using this method requires an area or handle of sorts where one can lift/carry the rocket without touching the paint. I still wait a few days to a week for full cure between colors, but the rocket can be handled.

That being said, yes, Rusto or Rusto 2X is much better paint, tho I bake cure it the same way during the cooler months.

T-rex makes a good point here... the cans SHOULD be warm when painting... the warmer, the better actually (so long as they're not too hot to hold). The quickest way to warm them up is to set the can in hot (tap) water about half the depth of the can... being 860 times denser than air, water will transfer a LOT more heat into the can MUCH more rapidly... plus tap water at 125 degrees+ will put a lot more warmth into the can...

Why warm up the can?? Well, for one thing, it lowers the viscosity of the paint... that makes it thinner so it flows and atomizes better at the nozzle, and flows out better when it lands on the object being painted. Second, rattle cans rely on propellant vaporizing to produce the pressure to push the paint out of the can and atomize it at the nozzle. The higher the pressure, the better the paint will flow, and the higher the pressure, the smaller the droplets produced by atomization at the nozzle, which means a better spray pattern and a more even coat.

As for the twist-lock cans, sure its easy enough to defeat the twist-lock feature, but it does nothing for the glorified air freshener nozzle they put on the can... Maybe you've had better luck or better paint (or a different color-- different solids to produce different colors DO behave slightly differently when atomized) but I was spraying Valspar silver and it was coming out looking like sh!t from the twist-lock nozzles because the atomization was terrible... some fine droplets, but a lot of larger "spit" droplets too that would just make the whole thing look uneven and more like a galvanized panel than aluminum or stainless steel sheet... I had used Valspar in the old cans before with regular plain-Jane old 99 cent a can "standard" nozzles (that have been used on cans since time immemorial) and it worked just beautifully. When I could get the regular-tip cans from TSC, they worked beautifully-- never could get a twist-lock cap that atomized worth a tinker's d@mn...

Later! OL JR :)
 
Any recommendations on how to free up a frozen or clogged spray can nozzle? Especially the valspar air freshener variety? I'm loosing more than half the can, each time that I buy one.

Rip the can nozzle apart and drop the atomizer part that presses onto either the nib or socket in the top of the can valve and then drop it in a jar partway full of paint thinner... lacquer thinner works even better. Let it sit in there a day or two and then take it out, clean it off, and try it again...

I usually keep a few old spray can tips in a jar of paint thinner just so if I'm spraying and it pulls a glob of paint into it and gums it up, I can swap them out quickly and keep working...

Just make sure you clean and dry it off very well before you start painting, and shoot some paint through it to wash any paint thinner out of the tip passages BEFORE you start painting your rocket again... lacquer thinner is especially prone to damaging a finish if you don't, but paint thinner won't do it any good and can really mess things up if you shoot it on the rocket... spray a cardboard box or something for a few seconds til you're getting clean, smooth paint flow...

Later! OL JR :)
 
I used Valspar "Gold Abundance" (are some of these names even colors?) and it definitely dried and was a great color, but seemed a bit soft and tacky. Did last sanding with a bit of wetness to keep it from making tiny paint balls on the sandpaper. Also they describe it as a Primer and Paint. Whatever primer qualities it may have, opaqueness isn't one of them. Smelly too.

My advice- FWIW...

STAY AWAY from paints/primers all-in-one-can... total crap.

Primer has a purpose-- part of that purpose is light surface filling of the object being painted (which is why we sand the primer down smooth before painting-- the better the surface finish, the better the final paint job will be-- NO paint job will EVER be better than how the final surface to be painted looks right before the color coat is shot on it... EVER! Paint MAGNIFIES surface problems-- it DOES NOT cover them! IOW-- you want a great looking finish; start with a great looking primered surface ready for paint. The other purpose of primer is as an adhesion promoter-- gives something for the final color coat(s) to stick to.

The color coats are just that-- color you're applying to the already prepared surface... they really do NOTHING to mask surface imperfections or lack of good preparation-- in fact, they usually magnify surface imperfections and make it plain as day that the surface wasn't prepped good... sanding scratches you didn't even notice will show up easily in most paint color coats, for instance.

These "combo" products are just a cheap and dirty shortcut for folks either 1) painting something that basically as long as it comes out the color they want, who really cares if it's a "perfect finish", or 2) just too lazy to prepare the surface properly with primer, sanding, and then the color coat, so they "buy into" the idea of this "miracle in a can" crapola...

If you want a "good enough from 30 feet" finish, the "paint/primer all in one" stuff is good enough... You want a GREAT finish that looks amazing, don't bother with that crap... get a good primer and prepare the surface properly, and then follow it with a good paint using a good nozzle...

One other thing... you can't make a final finish look better than the prepared surface before you paint, but you CAN ruin a good surface prep job with crappy paint applied with a crappy nozzle-- that's why I TOTALLY avoid the "air freshener nozzles" like on the Valspar and the "twist-fan" nozzles on the new Krylon if I possibly can... they simply don't atomize worth a d@mn and you can't rely on them not to spit paint or shoot big droplets/globules of paint on the nicely prepped surface, resulting in a sorry color coat that looks like crap...

Later! OL JR :)
 
The few Valspar lacquers tend to do well for me, when I use anything other than airbrush acrylics. Valspar clear lacquer is my go-to clear. Also good results with White and Black.

I've been "done" with enamel spraypaints for years.

And I agree, the new Valspar twist cap thing sucks.

Marc

This is true... spray enamels are just going totally to crap... it's all about marketing now, and complying with EPA regs, not about producing a product that does what it's intended to do, and do it WELL...

Hence all the "all in one" primer/paints coming out, and the flashy twisty-lock caps, twist-fan nozzles on new Krylon, and other "gimmicks" that actually make a WORSE product, NOT BETTER...

Being a farmer, I've dealt with spray nozzles of various types and kinds for decades... there are rules to nozzle design that differentiate a good nozzle from a bad nozzle and dictate the uses for which they are designed, and how they work... and most of these "gimmick" nozzles are just the totally OPPOSITE of what you need to get a good coat of paint on a rocket...

Basically, the plain-Jane old "hairspray" nozzles they put on the 99 cent a can Walmart paints give the best paint job... WHY?? Because they do EXACTLY what you want the paint to do-- atomize finely into an even cone spray pattern. Why a cone pattern, why not the flat pattern touted by the Krylon people as SO superior?? Simple-- a cone pattern will atomize into FINER DROPLETS at a given pressure than a flat fan nozzle at the same pressure. Smaller droplets coat more evenly and smoothly, and flow out onto the surface more evenly, for a finer coat. Big, gloppy droplets that "spit" out of flat-fans create less overspray, true enough, but they also don't flow out on the surface as smoothly and evenly nor do they coat as evenly, leaving a poorer final finish coating.

So why do paint guns used by professional painters use fan patterns?? To cover more area more quickly-- and for more even coating across a larger (wider) pattern than you'd get from a cone pattern. BUT, there's a critical difference. If you ever look at a professional paint gun, you'll notice it has NUMEROUS air holes around the tip that mix to create the flat-fan pattern... these jets of air rip into the stream of liquid paint coming from the paint gun when the trigger is pulled and atomize it out into a flat pattern of finely atomized droplets. This combination of liquid paint and AIR coming in from the surrounding nozzles creates the excellent atomization of a professional paint gun-- the "flat fan" nozzles of Krylon DO NOT have any air holes to help atomize the paint stream from the nozzle-- they are basically identical to ag spray nozzles that squirt pressurized liquid mixes of water and pesticides through a slit-shaped opening and atomize that liquid by a combination of the effects of surface tension of the liquid itself, the very exacting design and machining of the slit in the nozzle itself and how it manipulates the fluid flowing through it, and the pressure of the liquid being sprayed itself... factors like the pressure of the fluid and the design spray angle of the nozzle have the greatest effect on droplet size and pattern uniformity, once the slit in the nozzle is properly designed and machined or molded. The higher the pressure, the wider and more finely atomized the pattern is, and the smaller the droplet size. The lower the pressure, the narrower and coarser the spray pattern is with larger droplets. The wider the pattern design, the smaller the droplet... (how the nozzle orifice is cut, which is referred to in nozzle terminology as "spray angle" of the pattern-- for instance, most nozzles are available for ag use in 45, 60, and 90 degree patterns, and some nozzles in 120 degree patterns. Most popular nozzles are the 60 and 90 degree patterns). In ag, finer droplets lead to more drift of pesticides off-target, which we want to avoid. Hence the use of flat fan nozzles (which produce larger, more uniform droplets at the same pressure versus cone pattern nozzles) and lower pressures (say 30-60 PSI versus 70-90 PSI, which is a MAJOR contributor to droplet size... doubling the pressure quadruples the number of "fines" or extremely small, drift prone droplets from a given nozzle-- this is also the reason for the change to "high-volume, low-pressure" (HVLP) spray paint guns for professionals-- fewer fines to create "overspray" and more paint on target, thus lowering the overspray problem and using paint more efficiently). Also, lowering spray height to reduce drift, but this produces a tradeoff-- you can spray lower (reduced height) with a wider pattern nozzle angle, and lower height reduces drift... BUT higher angle pattern nozzles produce finer, more drift prone droplets at the same pressure versus lower-angle nozzles.

Anyway, that gives you some idea of why nozzles and nozzle design matters... Don't fall for the hype... most of that crap about how "superior" their fancy-shmancy nozzle is on a can of spray paint is all just pure BS advertising rubbish and gimmickry, nothing more...

Airbrushing of course gives the best final coat-- like a professional spray gun, they mix the paint and air and finely atomize it into a conical pattern as it leaves the airbrush... since you can adjust the amount of paint in relation to the air, and how much air pressure you use, just like a professional paint gun, you have a LOT more control over the final droplet size and pattern, and the rest is good technique and skill in actually applying the paint to the surface to avoid runs, drips, and sags... the best equipment in the world won't make up for an unskilled, unpracticed, poor-technique painter... so yeah, practice, practice, practice... a good, highly skilled painter can produce good results even with poor equipment, but even the best equipment can't make a bad painter produce great results...

There really are no "miracles in a can"...

Later! OL JR :)
 
So what would yall recommend as far as spray paints go because i used valspar on my lvl cert and the paint looks terrible
 
I sprayed 3 rockets on Sunday with Rusto 2X. The primer and 3 of the 4 colors came out great. The white I used apparently needed to be shaken quite a bit more than the others. It would spray fine for a minute and then start spraying solvent only. :facepalm: I cleaned up the nozzle and shook for a couple minutes and finally got it to spray nicely, but one fin is going to have to be sanded and resprayed. All of the paint dried to the touch within hours and seems much harder than the Valspar after 24 hours.
 
I sprayed 3 rockets on Sunday with Rusto 2X... The white I used apparently needed to be shaken quite a bit more than the others.
This has also been my experience a few times recently. Rusto Painter's Touch used to be more reliable; I still use it but need to be emotionally prepared for any given can to have problems. Save your receipts for sure! And do test sprays before starting on anything you care about.
 
I used Valspar from lowes a few years ago to paint a Big Daddy. I painted in the hot summer months.. and didn't notice much issue with the paint hardening. However, 2 weeks ago I painted a Leviathan with 4 different Valspar colors, one of which was primer and paint all-in-one. Every color was sticky for the last 2 weeks. Just as you'd mentioned, Chris, I had issues with finger prints and anything that touched the paint for more than a few seconds. I wish I'd seen your posts before I painted the Leviathan.
Now that over 2 weeks has gone by, the Leviathan's paint seems "touchable".. and hopefully will harden off soon.
Tonight, I put a couple coats of primer on a new Mega Der Red Max... I used Rustoleum Bonding Primer.. hope it works well. I also picked up a can of Hobby Lobby Krylon Shimmer Metalic Red. I hope it works out. I'll find out tomorrow.
 
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I'm a little surprised that nobody has mentioned Krylon. It is my favorite, seems to dry even faster than Rustoleum.
 
I've also had a poor experience with Valspar. I use their plastic primer to prime my plastic nosecones. First of all, the primer is CLEAR, so you do not know where you are painting and where has a good or bad coat, second the stupid twist nozzle takes like 50lbs of force to spray, and you end up looking like a idiot using two hands. Third, I have to wait days before light coats, which doesn't make sense. From now on, I've been using only Duplicolor primer and Rustoleum paints, and have been having no issues with their product. The quality of Valspar has been going WAY WAY down, they've been advertising themselves as a "premium" spray paint for a while now, and they focus more on their labels and marketing than putting effort to making a formula that actually works.

Daniel

(P.S. The Rustoleum 2x stuff is my favorite, if you don't get a good coat of primer the Rusto will take care of it)
 
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My advice- FWIW...

STAY AWAY from paints/primers all-in-one-can... total crap.

Primer has a purpose-- part of that purpose is light surface filling of the object being painted (which is why we sand the primer down smooth before painting-- the better the surface finish, the better the final paint job will be-- NO paint job will EVER be better than how the final surface to be painted looks right before the color coat is shot on it... EVER! Paint MAGNIFIES surface problems-- it DOES NOT cover them! IOW-- you want a great looking finish; start with a great looking primered surface ready for paint. The other purpose of primer is as an adhesion promoter-- gives something for the final color coat(s) to stick to.

The color coats are just that-- color you're applying to the already prepared surface... they really do NOTHING to mask surface imperfections or lack of good preparation-- in fact, they usually magnify surface imperfections and make it plain as day that the surface wasn't prepped good... sanding scratches you didn't even notice will show up easily in most paint color coats, for instance.

These "combo" products are just a cheap and dirty shortcut for folks either 1) painting something that basically as long as it comes out the color they want, who really cares if it's a "perfect finish", or 2) just too lazy to prepare the surface properly with primer, sanding, and then the color coat, so they "buy into" the idea of this "miracle in a can" crapola...

If you want a "good enough from 30 feet" finish, the "paint/primer all in one" stuff is good enough... You want a GREAT finish that looks amazing, don't bother with that crap... get a good primer and prepare the surface properly, and then follow it with a good paint using a good nozzle...

One other thing... you can't make a final finish look better than the prepared surface before you paint, but you CAN ruin a good surface prep job with crappy paint applied with a crappy nozzle-- that's why I TOTALLY avoid the "air freshener nozzles" like on the Valspar and the "twist-fan" nozzles on the new Krylon if I possibly can... they simply don't atomize worth a d@mn and you can't rely on them not to spit paint or shoot big droplets/globules of paint on the nicely prepped surface, resulting in a sorry color coat that looks like crap...

Later! OL JR :)

The only benefit of the Paint + Primer spray paints, is a slightly more even surface and better adhesion of the paint to the surface. But that all depends on how well you sanded the surface down before painting. When I use filler primer to fill in my spirals, the entire can is not directed on getting a even coats everywhere, it is focused on filling the spirals, because it would take A LOT of cans to evenly coat the entire rocket. So when I sand the rocket down I still have small white patches on the rocket, the paint + primer will help me get a more even surface from the spirals to the non spiraled parts of the rocket, and will adhere better than spray paint enamels.
 
I've totally abandoned the Rustoleum Auto paints/primers. About 50% of my cans would clog, usually on 1st or 2nd use. Threw away 4-5 cans that were 3/4 full. Also, too many big drops of paint. Krylon is a little better, but not by far. My current favorite rattle cans are Dupli-Coat, which is sold by the auto parts stores (Auto Zone, Advance Auto Parts). Hands-down, superior to the hardware store stuff. Their sandable primer comes in red, gray, white and black and is the best I've found to date. Beyond that, you can get a good finish with Testors and Tamiya cans, but you pay more for the experience.
 
Two comments:

Valspar sucks. Used it on my MDRM last summer. Never cured. Had to spray over it with clear coat, which did harden, so it was usable.

I used paint/primer combo on my Radial Flyer. Looked great on the canvas phenolic, not so great on the nose cone. I lightly sanded the NC, used adhesion promoter, and the paint/primer combo (Rusto) on it. I wish now that I had used a good filler primer on the NC.

And even with the adhesion promoter, the paint flakes off the NC. :facepalm:
 
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