CJ's WildMan 6in V-2 build

View attachment 168528 Designed by David Reese drawings & attachment pdf's by D.R.also


This is a quickie build/photo session. We built one and flew it over the weekend at ThunderStruck.

NO added nose weight! The whole idea was to build a scale version that did not need any. Looks like a rousing success!

I will do a detailed version build when we get back from Red Glare where it's flying again. For now this should answer many questions you all have on how it goes together.

It will hold a 5 grain 75mm case!

14.8lbs built but empty.....20.1 with all gear & a L-910 motor....2 grain 75mm case.

Went up on a CTI L-910 C star [2 grain 75mm] which is probably close to the worst case scenario for putting weight in the rear. Anything larger and you are ahead of the CP. [which is about 1in in front of fin]. The CG loaded for pad was exactly 3in in front of the CP or .5 caliber.

It flew straight & true to around 6100 something. A 60 in Recon Recovery chute was used for main & 30 for drogue. 25 ft of 9/16 TN for apogee & 15ft for main which is housed in the Nose cone. [more on that later]

2.5 grams bp for apogee & 2.5 in NC for main.
3 shearpins 2-56 in NC.
None for apogee.

This differs from most V-2's by being very, very close to scale, the fins seem small but all functioned perfectly!!!



Placement of the railbuttons [1010] was a bit touchy, as they must fit just below the NC coupler & as far down the tailcone as possible. Remember the first 3.5 in of tailcone is dimensionally the same as airframe[so the coupler fits] before the curve starts so right above the top of fin is the limit.

Cool!

Rocket is built in 3 assemblies:

Nose cone/coupler/av-bay
Airframe
Fincan/tailcone

Photo shows how all 3 fit together .....fincan on left, airframe middle [held on fincan with 4 rivets] NC assembly to right. There is only about 1.5 in. inside when assembled,for top rail button clearance.



Fin can may have fins injected like most other Wildman builds or remove CR after tacking fins to do internal fillets. You attach Kevlar recovery Y-harness to CR, so you can pull it to remove for doing internal fillets if not injecting.




Side view of tail..... you can see we put rail button right above where curve begins. Coupler is glued in tailcone, but airframe is attached with rivets or screws etc.

David was trying to retain some of that detailed V-2 look shown here, by adding the bolt on retainer. By having the ring mounted just below the airframe [flush] the bolts are clearly visible adding to the "look".

View attachment 168529


AND it was a total success! Looks great besides being functional. This was not an easy thing to do. Precise cut off of NC tip, & slotting was required to get dimensions correct.

Now for the "Crown Jewel" the nose cone shoulder av-bay or head end DD.

This allows for a full 5 grain motor case to be utilized by fitting right through the center of the av-bay. The rear CR is a centering ring, top is solid bulkplate. Both aluminum with the lip built in. These are not anodized [prototype's] they will be black in future.

Since the shoulder on spiral wound cones is usually glued in,if fitted right, will make the perfect av-bay. A vent band is glued on/positioned to prevent the shoulder from going to far forward and being wedged in place. I first did this on the 4in Jart.

BP 's must have the 1/4in. holes all drilled for the tie rods & eyebolts. Holes are "centered" on the BP's 2 on each end for tie rods & 2 for eyebolts.


First you remove the metal tip from NC and replace it with an eyebolt. I used thread locker to keep in place.




Then BP's are drilled and tie rods & eyebolts placed. Add a recovery Y-harness on each end.

Bp with hole to rear...... solid BP on front. 3 shearpins [2-256] added equally spaced around cone...1.5 in from edge.

4 - 5/32 vent holes drilled into vent band. [marked before building by slipping coupler into fincan and using slots for marking. Then transferring marks to band.




This type av-bay allows a 5 grain case to go right through the middle of the av-bay!

You will have enough room for a 1 in. wide sled [maybe an 1/8 over] up to 7.5 inches long.

The Motor tube in center can be left unattached or glued in on the open end. I use twist and tape with switch wire going through the vents in band. I'm sure switch users will figure something out.

This shows a Stratologger & a MissleWorks RRC2+ [which I mounted to a separate sled, since the 2 mounting holes are centered, they would have hit the tube on bottom of sled. I then mounted the sub-sled to the regular one, with 4 screws that clear the central tube.] mounted to the sleds.
The next flight will use the RRC3 already installed. I believe with some thought you can get just about any altimeter in there.

Note that one sled uses a battery box & the other I just taped the 9v in place.....I ran out of battery boxes. Close inspection and you can see the sled on sled mount. Since I was doing that anyhow I added a terminal block for my switch wire on the RRC2.:wink:




I know some pics are blurry, this is just to show the bare bones of how this goes together to get those of you who bought one started. A more detailed build will follow after Red Glare.

Woah baby! Paint that thing!! op:

I did...Oooops never put up the finished shot.
Now one of my favorite finished projects............

Looks like a fun project!
I'm hoping for a V2 build someday.