New scratch build, now "Binary Effusion"

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I wanted to put a rail button at the aft end, and one in the middle of the aft section. But I would have had to add a third centering ring, so I decided to use well nuts from Dog House instead. Not sure I like them. You have to drill a huge hole (5/16"), and the cardboard body tube doesn't seem to give much support. I'll pull them out and flood the edges of the holes with CA, maybe that will help.

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Man thats one pointy nose cone, I'm courious what this bird with turn out weight wise, looks plenty strong.

Yeah, it's pointier than I had intended. I ordered a 4:1, which would have had an exposed length of 16". But he was out of them, so I ordered a 5:1 instead. This one has 20" exposed length. It's going to be a heavy one. Open Rocket says 86 oz with motors, but it'll probably end up being more.

Nice work as always. :clap:
-J

Thank you Jeff!

Very nice! I'm curious, do you plan on doing internal fillets, and if so; how?

No internal fillets on this one. All I could do is inject epoxy or two-part foam, but I don't think it will be necessary.
 
I flooded the rail button holes with CA, then redrilled and sanded them smooth.

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Moving along nicely! The tall, pointy, little fin design makes it look fast sitting still. I am sure it will look extra fast while it is Binary Effusing.

It's too late for this build, but an option for holding a rail button without a ring is to take a rectangle (1" x 2" -ish) of 1/4" balsa, sand that to the inner contour of the tube, put a T-nut through the balsa in the center (grind if necessary so it doesn't stick out), epoxy T-nut in place on balsa, CA seal the flat side for strength, drill hole in airframe, epoxy balsa block in place using a greased screw to hold it in the right place while the epoxy sets. Sounds long, but it takes <1 h total with 5 min epoxy. This gives you a big epoxy/CA soaked balsa backer block. As an added bonus the railbutton is removable. Also, if it will be fore of the top CR you can easily sand a taper into the bottom and top of the block so they don't snag the parachute or cord, this is how I use them.

NOTE: I may have ripped this method off from one of your threads, rendering this advice completely useless to you...You, Paul, and a few other prolific builders on here have influenced my methods so much I don't know where the borders are anymore, so if I am ripping you (or someone else) off no harm was intended.

Keep going Captain, it's lookin good!
 
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Can you believe it? I actually did something rocketry related! I'm using one of the 60" surplus chutes from Aerocon for Binary Effusion, and decided to try dyeing it red. I put a bottle of liquid Rit dye in about 3 gallons of hot water, and let it soak for a few hours. I stirred it periodically. I put a cup of vinegar in it per the instructions on the bottle, for nylon fabric. It's a little dark, but it is definitely no longer white.

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Can someone tell me what's wrong with the images? They're all full size, instead of thumbnails.
 
The pics changed after a maintenance down period yesterday. Before that they were just showing up as links. I think this is better.

Nice that you are back at it. Now you need to design a vampire themed rocket for that blood-red chute.
 
On broadband, the size of the pictures don't really matter. OTOH, it might make a difference to someone trying to view on a smartphone.

Good to see you back in the RocketWerks.

The red color looks magenta(?) but the chute is still wet in the pictures. I like it. Should show up in the sky pretty well.
 
Does your chute have hairy fiberglass shroud lines? I got one and really like it except for that part... I'm not sure how to deal with them, so I've never gotten around to using it. Maybe they'll work their way off over time.
 
Does your chute have hairy fiberglass shroud lines? I got one and really like it except for that part... I'm not sure how to deal with them, so I've never gotten around to using it. Maybe they'll work their way off over time.

All of these surplus 66" chutes have those lines...and they last! My father and I have flown several of these chutes over the years, north of 30-40 flights. The lines stay perfect, but the canopy is really susceptible to burns. Keep them covered from black powder and the chutes will last a long time.
 
Thanks Captain!!!

When you illustrate it with pictures, you make it look so easy. :)

I have a few of the 36" inchers' from Aerocon.

Guess I better get some dye now. :cool:
 
The color lightened a bit when it dried, but it doesn't look bad.

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The bias tape on the parachute absorbed the dye better than the shroud. It must be a different material.

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Does your chute have hairy fiberglass shroud lines? I got one and really like it except for that part... I'm not sure how to deal with them, so I've never gotten around to using it. Maybe they'll work their way off over time.
Mine was like that too when I first got it and I rubbed the lines with candle wax. Smooth and slick now. It's also what I do to my bow string.
 
The color of the chute turned out nicely.

Pink is a great color for visibility in the sky but on the ground in Oregon not so much.
 
The color of the chute turned out nicely.

Pink is a great color for visibility in the sky but on the ground in Oregon not so much.

Been a long time since I've been to Oregon. But I don't remember ever seeing a field of fuschia there.
 
I actually did something with a rocket. Can you believe it? I got the forged eyebolt attached and epoxied into the coupler.

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We've had rain here for several days totaling at least an inch so the possibility of an actual launch sometime in the near future looms large!

Jim, if you ever need more of those closed eyebolts let me know. I apparently went crazy and picked up 10 or 12 of them in varying sizes in the past few weeks. After I bought them I remembered liking stainless steel U-bolts better as they are probably stronger. Forged eyebolts are rated around 500 lbs in the 1/4" size.
 
Got a new tool. It's a Craftsman Nextec cordless multi-tool. It came with the big sanding pad, but the "finger" sander was optional. Worth it, though, very handy for sanding fins and their nooks and crannies.

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