New scratch build, now "Binary Effusion"

o1d_dude · Nov 22, 2014

qquake2k said:
Got a new tool. It's a Craftsman Nextec cordless multi-tool. It came with the big sanding pad, but the "finger" sander was optional. Worth it, though, very handy for sanding fins and their nooks and crannies.

Is that the 12v/battery operated model? Mine is a wired one from Ridgid and fairly heavy duty so I can see where a smaller battery operated model would come in very handy...as you say sanding fins and such.

qquake2k · Nov 22, 2014

o1d_dude said:
We've had rain here for several days totaling at least an inch so the possibility of an actual launch sometime in the near future looms large!

Jim, if you ever need more of those closed eyebolts let me know. I apparently went crazy and picked up 10 or 12 of them in varying sizes in the past few weeks. After I bought them I remembered liking stainless steel U-bolts better as they are probably stronger. Forged eyebolts are rated around 500 lbs in the 1/4" size.

I know, I'm getting cautiously optimistic about a December launch.

Where did you get your eyebolts? I got the black one and this weird long shoulder one at Blue Collar. I usually use u-bolts on heavier builds.

qquake2k · Nov 22, 2014

o1d_dude said:
Is that the 12v/battery operated model? Mine is a wired one from Ridgid and fairly heavy duty so I can see where a smaller battery operated model would come in very handy...as you say sanding fins and such.

Yeah, all Nextec tools are 12v lithium ion. This one is heavier than I expected, but it's well balanced, and easy to control. It's also variable speed. I have the drill, right-angle impact wrench, circular saw, palm sander, and the jigsaw. The only one I don't like is the jigsaw. The shape of it makes it hard to control.

https://www.sears.com/search=nextec

o1d_dude · Nov 22, 2014

qquake2k said:
I know, I'm getting cautiously optimistic about a December launch.

Where did you get your eyebolts? I got the black one and this weird long shoulder one at Blue Collar. I usually use u-bolts on heavier builds.

Blue Collar has the black ones in stock; 1/4" and 5/16". I have a few of the zinc plated forged eyebolts, too. Used to use the large 5/8" ones to make throwing implements for the Scottish Games so I knew where to find them.

Lowe's and Home Depot both sell the stainless steel U-bolts but Lowe's seems to have the better selection.

I"m not sure we'll be able to have a launch at Snow Ranch in December but I plan to be ready just in case. Have a few small repairs to make to a couple of birds but all my motors are assembled and the delays set.

qquake2k · Nov 22, 2014

o1d_dude said:
Blue Collar has the black ones in stock; 1/4" and 5/16". I have a few of the zinc plated forged eyebolts, too. Used to use the large 5/8" ones to make throwing implements for the Scottish Games so I knew where to find them.

Lowe's and Home Depot both sell the stainless steel U-bolts but Lowe's seems to have the better selection.

I"m not sure we'll be able to have a launch at Snow Ranch in December but I plan to be ready just in case. Have a few small repairs to make to a couple of birds but all my motors are assembled and the delays set.

If there is a December launch, I might be going alone. So I'll be packing light.

qquake2k · Nov 23, 2014

My famous sanding sealer photos.

qquake2k · Nov 23, 2014

And my famous primer photos. At least you can see the difference with the primer. Since it's so cool outside (60's), I heated up the primer (and sanding sealer) in hot water before I sprayed it.

o1d_dude · Nov 24, 2014

The warming treatment before applying the paint makes a noticeable difference. Highly recommended in cool weather.

qquake2k · Nov 25, 2014

o1d_dude said:
The warming treatment before applying the paint makes a noticeable difference. Highly recommended in cool weather.

I think I learned that from you.

qquake2k · Jan 13, 2015

I really want to launch this at the Snow Ranch launch on February 7, so I'd better get busy! I decided to put the eyebolt out as far as it would go, so it would be a little bit easier to reach when attaching the shock cord link. Sometimes all you need is an extra inch! Then using a piece of PVC pipe as usual, I epoxied the bulkhead into the forward body tube. The epoxy was a little thin on one side, so I added some to it. I know it probably wasn't necessary, but I'm paranoid about such things.

o1d_dude · Jan 13, 2015

qquake2k said:
I think I learned that from you.

And I learned it from Micromeister.

What's left to do on this bad boy? Just paint?

qquake2k · Jan 13, 2015

o1d_dude said:
And I learned it from Micromeister.

What's left to do on this bad boy? Just paint?

Yep, down to paint.

qquake2k · Jan 13, 2015

Got the coupler epoxied into the aft body tube. I sanded the nose cone and tail cone, and washed them both in hot water with dish soap. I got lazy, and didn't primer the nose cone, just sprayed the red directly onto it. Not sure if it was the lack of primer, or the fact that I didn't wipe it down with alcohol (which I usually do), but there are some spots on the nose cone where the paint didn't adhere. I'll let the paint cure a few days, sand it, and spray it again.

qquake2k · Jan 13, 2015

I wiped the tail cone down with alcohol, then sprayed it with black primer. The gloss black covered pretty well after the primer had dried.

cjp · Jan 15, 2015

Glad to see your back at it,should be a great looking rocket when done.Is that apple red?Love that color of paint.Tail cone looks like it came out great.Can't wait fro launch pictures.

qquake2k · Jan 15, 2015

Got the forward body tube primered. I lightly sanded the nose cone, wiped it down with alcohol, and resprayed it. It turned out pretty good. Up close, you can still see the imperfections. But from a few feet away it doesn't look bad. It's good enough for who it's for.

qquake2k · Jan 15, 2015

Found some wrinkles I hadn't noticed before. But they're not bad enough to do anything about. I went ahead and sprayed the yellow on both sections. Turned out pretty good, if you look past the glare from the sun. I'll take some more pics when it's in the shade.

qquake2k · Jan 15, 2015

cjp said:
Glad to see your back at it,should be a great looking rocket when done.Is that apple red?Love that color of paint.Tail cone looks like it came out great.Can't wait fro launch pictures.

Thanks Carl. Rustoleum calls it "Gloss Apple Red". It's getting there!

qquake2k · Jan 15, 2015

Time to mask the fins. I did a trick I've used before, I cut half circles from the edge of pieces of masking tape to fit around the rounded fins. It's worked before, I hope it works this time. You know, it's not easy to mask a yellow rocket with yellow masking tape. But I got it done. We'll see how well I did when I peel it off.

qquake2k · Jan 15, 2015

Not my best paint job, but then, I'm not known for my paint jobs. About the best thing I can say, is at least the fins are covered with red.

qquake2k · Jan 15, 2015

Time for unmasking. I love that Tamiya tape, it leaves very clean lines. In this case, though, I got a little bleed due to my rough fillets. And a new paint problem I haven't experienced before. The paint bled through the thin Harbor Freight newspaper and stuck it to the yellow paint in spots. I rubbed it with an alcohol prep pad, and most of it came off.

ChrisAttebery · Jan 15, 2015

Did you use a hole punch to cet the half circles? That's a great trick.

qquake2k said:
I did a trick I've used before, I cut half circles from the edge of pieces of masking tape to fit around the rounded fins.

qquake2k · Jan 15, 2015

Like I said, not my best paint job, but still not too bad. I'm happy with it. And the decals will make it look better.

qquake2k · Jan 15, 2015

ChrisAttebery said:
Did you use a hole punch to cet the half circles? That's a great trick.

Yeah, just a 1/4" handheld hole punch. I've done it a lot. The rounded paint lines at the top of the fins look better to my eyes than squared lines.

o1d_dude · Jan 15, 2015

It's gonna look just fine sitting on the pad...especially when both tailpipes spew flame and smoke.

If the initial pre-first-flight finish really matters to you, quit using Rustoleum 2X paint. I've never had good luck with that crap.

Yellow, orange and fluoro colors are the worst color choices when it comes to ease of getting even shading with no blotches.

No primer on the nosecone? It's PLASTIC and it hates paint more than you do!

Looking forward to seeing this bad boy light 'em up.

qquake2k · Jan 15, 2015

o1d_dude said:
It's gonna look just fine sitting on the pad...especially when both tailpipes spew flame and smoke.

If the initial pre-first-flight finish really matters to you, quit using Rustoleum 2X paint. I've never had good luck with that crap.

Yellow, orange and fluoro colors are the worst color choices when it comes to ease of getting even shading with no blotches.

No primer on the nosecone? It's PLASTIC and it hates paint more than you do!

Looking forward to seeing this bad boy light 'em up.

I've had much better luck with Rusto 2X than Krylon, that's for sure. I used Dupli-Color once, and I liked the color, but it was very expensive and didn't cover well. What kind of paint do you use?

o1d_dude · Jan 15, 2015

qquake2k said:
I've had much better luck with Rusto 2X than Krylon, that's for sure. I used Dupli-Color once, and I liked the color, but it was very expensive and didn't cover well. What kind of paint do you use?

Seriously?

Rusto Fluorescent Pink and Rusto Metallic Midnight Black, as if you didn't know.

Back in the LPR days I used Testor's on several rockets. It covered well but it's very expensive when you have to those small rattle cans.

I have laid in a fairly large supply of fluoro pink and metallic black in air brush paints (Createx and the brand the R/C car & truck guys use to paint the inside of the lexan car bodies....brand name escapes at the moment.)

Basically it seems I'm a creature of habit in my color choices...been flying these colors since the late 1980's when I flew AMA aircraft.

ChrisAttebery · Jan 16, 2015

Tamiya? Pactra?

qquake2k · Jan 16, 2015

ChrisAttebery said:
Tamiya? Pactra?

I haven't used Pactra paint since I was a kid! I used to brush paint my rockets back then, for some reason.

qquake2k · Jan 16, 2015

o1d_dude said:
Seriously?

Rusto Fluorescent Pink and Rusto Metallic Midnight Black, as if you didn't know.

Back in the LPR days I used Testor's on several rockets. It covered well but it's very expensive when you have to those small rattle cans.

I have laid in a fairly large supply of fluoro pink and metallic black in air brush paints (Createx and the brand the R/C car & truck guys use to paint the inside of the lexan car bodies....brand name escapes at the moment.)

Basically it seems I'm a creature of habit in my color choices...been flying these colors since the late 1980's when I flew AMA aircraft.

You're right, I should have known. :lol: So it's just Rusto 2X that you have a problem with?

New scratch build, now "Binary Effusion"

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