Re-born rocket boy... couple of getting started questions (TN)

Like many here, getting restarted in model rocketry as a semi-serious hobby. Dabbled in the 70's like most boys fascinated with the space race. Taught the Space Exploration merit badge in Scouting, just now finding time for myself with the nest emptying out.

I've been reading extensively trying to update my skills and learn a ton of new techniques from this learned body. Wow... sure is different from when I was 13-14 and just shooting them up and hoping for the best..... Am loving all the great contributors and marveling in their experience.

So far, just been using a couple of RTF or snap togethers, but have a Big Bertha and StratoCruiser sitting on the front steps when I get home tonight.

So in my reading.... a couple of areas I need a little clarification:

1) paint / finish: watched all the build videos in the intro section. Is there an easier way to get a food finish short of "prime / sand, repeat, repeat...." . Saw a post that mentioned "Aeropoxy" then spray paint (not sure that that is). I want a respectable finish, not show quality. Tips on how to maximize results with minimal time would be great.

2) Until I can locate a better launch location, I'm planning on staying in the LPR category. Streamers or modified chutes. I read a ton in the Recovery section, but have a chute question. Understand the concept of spill holes, but does the chute material help me in my limited launch space issue? In other words, which chute(s), with or without spill holes, can I get the best controlled recovery with (I know.... many launch day factors involved, but in general).

This looks like a great group and I'm excited about getting started again. I hope to find a club in the Nashville / Middle Tennessee area to get involved with.

Thanks.

Welcome back to the hobby and welcome to TRF!

To answer you first question... Basically, the more time and effort you put into finishing, the better your outcome. The majority of us here really hate sanding, but that's what it takes if you want a nice finish. Sealing the wood grain, filling spiral tubes and primer... all necessary if you want that nice finish. Each of those steps takes sanding. Some folks just like to use a few coats of primer with sanding between coats. Just remember, at 15+ feet away, they all look pretty good!

As for your second question on chute materials, I not sure if there is a noticeable correlation between material type (plastic, mylar or nylon) and controlled recovery. In my experience, nylon works the best as plastic sometimes sticks and doesn't open as well. Powdering the plastic chutes help, but nylon is easier.

Definitely find a club! It is a lot more fun with others when launching. Plus you get to see more rockets launch!


Jerome

Welcome back, Tater. Your story sounds just about like mine. As a kid in the early to mid 70s, I built and flew Estes rockets. As a big kid now, my wife says my rocket stuff is taking over the house!

I'll let others with more expertise handle the bulk of your finishing question. Let me just mention a few products you should consider. A sandable primer - Rustoleum Automotive primer is a good starting point. I use Plastikote brand - it costs a little more but sands really well. Carpenters wood filler (or whatever they are calling it now) for filling spirals and balsa. (I sometimes still use that stinky sanding sealer dope on balsa for old times' sake). Titebond Trim and Molding glue (may be called No-Drip now) for fin fillets. There are lots of threads about all these finishing topics. Experiment and find a system that works for you and gets you the results you're looking for.

And then there's paint - enamels, laquers, acrylics to name a few. Lots of different opinions here. (Stay away from Krylon - my :2

Did I mention you need to sand?

Big Bertha is still a great rocket, by the way. It's been around so long that anyone who's ever been involved in the hobby knows what it is. I've recovered mine on chutes as small as 12" with no problems, but that's landing on grass.

Have fun!

Good to have you back in rocketry and welcome to TRF
I'm in Jackson, TN (PM me if you want), I fly by myself at a local park, and once a month join up with Mid South Rocket Society in Memphis (waiver is like 6K, I think, LOL, I'm just a LPR guy myself so I never "challenge" it.)
Strongly recommend Harry Stine's Handbook of Model Rocketry, easy and fun read and lots of good information.
Do a search on TRF on papering fins (Luke Strawwalker's stuff is really good) and there is also a video on it on Apogee Rocket's education site. Otherwise, welcome to the world of sanding!
I haven't had any problem with plastic chutes, I usually make mine out of Hobby Lobby or other bags and kite string, with scotch tape "reinforcements" at the attachment points (use a hole punch so you get smooth holes that won't rip.) Talcum powder doesn't hurt. Try to pack your chute at the very last minute just before you launch, so it doesn't "freeze" into the folded shape.

Straight Trails!

I just got back in again for the second time. A new one for me was papering fins. I had never even heard of it until 3 weeks ago. Someone mentioned using Avery shipping labels and I happen to have pack of them. I was very pleasantly surprised with the outcome.

As for the filling and sanding of primer, take a look at this: https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?64398-Pigasus-build-thread&p=690070#post690070

Welcome Back! I just got back into Rockets for like the third time last August. Hanging out here has me hooked. Lots of inspiration here to be had.

Welcome back; Beware, the BAR bug bites hard!

Lots of ways to get smooth basla; Thinned wood filler will get fins smooth faster than multiple primer coats, but is messier, takes just one coat, and a lot of sanding. Try a few different techniques, and stick with the one you like the best. I really like aero gloss sanding sealer, but takes many, many coats to get smooth like glass fins. High build primers, such as Dupli-Color, will take fewer coats if you go the primer-only method.

Chute material makes less of a difference than size; The area of the chute is the biggest factor, so go with a small chute, or put a spill hole in the supplied chute. The typical kit chute can get away with a large spill hole, and still bring down softly enough, if landing in grass.

I just started using label paper to cover my fins,and it works great !

Just place a fin on the sticky side and burnish with a smooth object like the barrel of a "Sharpie" marker.

Trim excess paper and repeat on the opposite side.

After the final trim,I like to seal the edges with white glue.

When the glue has dried, lightly sand the edges.

This method is quick and makes for a smooth finish.

I usually use Rust-Oleum 2 in 1 sandable filler/primer.

As stated before, sanding is unavoidable.:sad:

Dean B said:

(Stay away from Krylon - my :2

Click to expand...

I've had outstanding results using Krylon and DupliColor. Try them out and find the one that you like the best.

There are a few clubs that look like they are close to you, check the NAR and Tripoli club lists to find a club close to you.


I've been flying with Bluegrass Rocketry Society here in Kentucky.

The key to a good finish, is good prep work. Me personally, I use high fill primers, such as an automotive primer, or Kilz. I usually prime and sand 2-3 times, then lay on a coat of white as a base. You will just have to experiment with what works for you in your time limits.

As for the chute/streamer questions, I think most lpr kits are supplied with too large of a recovery device unless you are flying over a hard surface. More often than not, I usually step the chutes down a size and cut a spill hole, depending on the model, and fin configuration.

David

Thanks all for your welcomes and guidance..... it is great to find a group that has infinite expertise from seasoned veterans, yet so willing to jump in and share that knowledge with the oft repeated "newbie" questions.

I'm pretty excited to have found a club not far from where I live and they have monthly launches relatively close as well. On Father's Day weekend.... they are hosting "Southern Thunder". Not exactly sure what that means, but I love the sound of it !!

I'm busy looking for the Rustoleum primer mentioned, but not having any luck in the big box stores. Think I just figured out I need to be in the auto parts stores looking.

I'm going to be reading up more on streamer recovery and see if that might not be the answer to my controlled recovery goals.

Thanks again.....

The Rust-Oleum 2-in-1 Filler-Primer I use can be found at Wal-Mart in the automotive section,along with Bondo spot filler and a wide range of sand paper grits.

How does the Rusto 2-in-1 compare to duplicolor high build?

I hated all of the filling, sanding, painting stuff when I was a kid and I still hate it. For the most part I just don't do it. When I do try to make a nice finish I take my time with every step, patience pays off, a rushed job will always look like a rushed job no matter what products you use.

Lord - I hate sanding like nnothing else but its something you have to do. I often rush it and the finished bird - no matter what 'clever' products are used always means it looks less than I had hoped for.

I think the best advice is try different approaches and see what works best for you. I have only built a few kits but on each one I have learnt something different or modified the techniques to get what I want. Papering the fins is something I have learnt to do to get a good fin finish with relatively little pain - it still needs sanding and a lot of waiting around for stuff to dry.
I usually cut paper templates for the fins, put a really thin coat of aliphatic glue on and then press the paper temple to the fin making sure its aligned and then have the fin pressed between to heavy books for a day. Then repeat for the other side. Finally the paper is trimmed, the fin edges given a light hit of fillerr and sanded to give a slight edge. Doesnt work for all rockets mind especially if you want profiled fins.

I generally finish these days with auto spray paint in times - goes on better, dries faster and generally gives a better finish. I found most model type Acrylic sprays too about a zillion coats to get a good finish and enamel took geological time scales to dry adequately. Basic car paint in cans is what I use but I work on limited resources and have to do most things on the cheap.

To be honest the finish doesnt show at 40' away when its on the pad, and definitley not when its 1000' in the air but I still like a good finish just for the satisfaction of doing it - well at least as good as I can at any rate.

My advice for a beginner - and I am hardly an expert - would be to moderate launch height. I kind of came into it and thought 'WOW :y: Go L A R G E and buy something that can go to the edge of space' it turned out to be not smart as rockets that go high - generally arent found again or descend into the rocket eating bushes or trees which seem to have a tractor beam that drags slolwy descending rockets into them So my advice is keep the power down to start with.

Second mistake was buying a bigg(ish) rocket early on - the cost of a launch goes high and in fact its only ever been launched for a few ground skimming flights

Anyway thats my two penneth - welcome back and hope you have happy trails.