Titebond Polyurethane Glue

So does anyone have any experience with Titebond Polyurethane Glue? Is this a good glue for HPR builds?

-Dave

From the physical properties tab, it looks like it forms a strong bond. The application guidelines tab says it cures by reaction with moisture so it sounds a lot like Gorilla glue. Maybe their patent finally ran out and Titebond is making their own version of it now. If that's the case, I would just do a search for builds using Gorilla glue and see what their experience is with it. I know we have some glue experts on the forum, maybe one of them will pipe in and share their thoughts.

Urethane glues usually foam a bit. The expansion can be a help or a hindrance depending on the application.

Polyurethane glues don't work for fin attachment because they absolutely require clamping.

Because of the hype when this type of glue first came out, I did a brief informal bond strength test. It was far weaker than anything else I have ever tried. I won't use PU glue for anything critical, except for gluing fuel grains into a liner. Done with care it is not bad for that.

Gerald

I've had problems in the past when using wood glue to glue couplers --- the coupler would "grab" too soon before I had it in the position where I wanted it. Glues like Gorilla Glue do not grab, so they leave time for repositioning. I mostly only use Gorilla glue for gluing couplers.

ThirstyBarbarian said:

I've had problems in the past when using wood glue to glue couplers --- the coupler would "grab" too soon before I had it in the position where I wanted it. Glues like Gorilla Glue do not grab, so they leave time for repositioning. I mostly only use Gorilla glue for gluing couplers.

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That I've done before with wood glue and you are spot on about it grabbing almost instantly. The last time I did that I practiced sliding the coupler in a few times before applying glue to make sure the coupler slid into place in one fluid motion with NO hesitation. It can be done successfully if you are anticipating it and are ready to accept the consequences if it doesn't work. If I have to fiddle with the parts for any reason then I use epoxy - or I might buy some PU glue.

DAllen said:

That I've done before with wood glue and you are spot on about it grabbing almost instantly. The last time I did that I practiced sliding the coupler in a few times before applying glue to make sure the coupler slid into place in one fluid motion with NO hesitation. It can be done successfully if you are anticipating it and are ready to accept the consequences if it doesn't work. If I have to fiddle with the parts for any reason then I use epoxy - or I might buy some PU glue.

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Yep. You definitely need to test fit, and sometimes sand a bit or burnish the edges to make sure they will slide together. I've been using wood glue when inserting the coupler into the first tube. Then using the Gorilla glue for the second side, just to be sure it won't grab short of the tubes meeting. Also, I do not follow the Gorilla glue instructions to moisten one of the surfaces. The Gorilla glue will cure with moisture from the air --- it just takes a little bit longer. It's not a good technique if you are trying to build everything in one night. But if you can leave the part overnight, it will be cured by morning.

Couplers are paper to paper. Why use wood glue at all? White glue works great and doesn't seem to grab as fast. I think it bonds paper to paper just as well and doesn't shrink like wood glue.

I've used both Gorilla Glue and Elmer's Pro Bond polyurethane glues RC airplane builds. I assume the Titebond glue will have similar properties. Both Elmer's and Gorilla Glue foam and expand as they cure. I've used it very successfully to bond balsa skins to form cores, when done in a vacuum bag. IMHO, it produces a superior bond than either contact cement or epoxy in this application.

The foaming/expanding properties make it difficult to use anywhere else, especially in external joints. It leaves an irregular surface that requires a lot of sanding and filling. Epoxy or wood glues are much better in these (RC airplane) applications.

I can't see it for use on rocketry. Epoxy is easier to control, produces at least as strong a bond, and there is little to no weight savings with polyurethane glue.


Rob

DAllen said:

So does anyone have any experience with Titebond Polyurethane Glue? Is this a good glue for HPR builds?

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I currently have the Titebond Polyurethane Glue, and have used Gorilla Glue and Elmer's Pro Bond polyurethane glue. They all work about the same IMHO. And I don't find any of the polyurethane glues suitable for HPR. Epoxy, Titebond III, or Titebond NRND are much more suitable.