FLAIL by The Launch Pad

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JP Morgan

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So I've started another TLP kit, the Flail.
Here's a few pics.
Flail card.jpgFlail by TLP.jpg

JP
 
Are the fins supposed to have a ton of cant or is it an optical illusion in the photo?
 
Are the fins supposed to have a ton of cant or is it an optical illusion in the photo?
I think it's just an elliptical conclusion!
The forward fins are formed by folding 4 paper pieces. I think this is what you mean. It has beveled forward fins...
Looking at the card picture the rear fins look out of alignment with the forward too.
I'll get a picture up of the forward fins and how they are made.

JP
 
There is no cant on the fins.
Is that a TLP kit?
The rear fins on my kit don't look like yours do.

Here's a shot of the forward fins, folded paper, ready for glue.
Flail forward paper fins folding.jpgFlail fin instructions.jpg

JP
 
Last edited:
Is that a TLP kit?
The rear fins on my kit don't look like yours do.

Yes, It is indeed constructed from a TLP Flail kit.

I put in a lot'a effort to put bevels on those rear fins. They were flat balsa fins before I started in on them, just like yours are.

IMG_1433.jpg
 
Yes, It is indeed constructed from a TLP Flail kit.

I put in a lot'a effort to put bevels on those rear fins. They were flat balsa fins before I started in on them, just like yours are.
OK, nice job you've done! It only suits the front ones.
Bring back more pics if you like.
Thanks for posting!

JP
 
nose cone extension.jpgmotor tube changed out for LOC.jpgFlail chute shelf.jpg
Flail interior rail block balsa.jpgFlail tail cone filling.jpgFlail front fins paper.jpg
Flail front fins 2.jpgFlail leading edge front fins straight.jpg<This shows 2 builders aluminum squares pressing
together the outside edge of the front fins, making sure they glue and set-up straight.

JP
 
Hope you've given thought to how your going to mate the very flat and wide root of the fin with the continuous curve of the body tube. :grin:

Flail%20front%20fins%202.jpg

Flail%20chute%20shelf.jpg
 
Hope you've given thought to how your going to mate the very flat and wide root of the fin with the continuous curve of the body tube. :grin:
Yep. I'll use a 38mm motor tube with sandpaper glued to it. Same technique I used on the conduit for the Martel. Puts that rounded curvature on it.

Three Dimensional Fins make life fun!:)
Now I want a Flail!
Get ya one, they're cheap enough. Order some of those Mini Rail buttons too!
You see the LOC motor tube you gave me?:handshake:

JP
 
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Yep. I'll use a 38mm motor tube with sandpaper glued to it. Same technique I used on the conduit for the Martel. Puts that rounded curvature on it.

JP


Good thinking! It's not what I did, but it will get the curve into it.
 
Yep. I'll use a 38mm motor tube with sandpaper glued to it. Same technique I used on the conduit for the Martel. Puts that rounded curvature on it.


Get ya one, they're cheap enough. Order some of those Mini Rail buttons too!
You see the LOC motor tube you gave me?:handshake:

JP

I have no interest in Mini Rail Buttons, because then I'de need a Mini Rail. I'm ok with the 1010 size. The Mini ones are great and all, I just don't want to get into having to buy anything more than I need right now. Maybe somewhere down the road. Right now I have the 1010 Rail and plenty of 1010 Buttons on hand, so I simply can't justify changing.
Glad to see you getting good use out of the LOC MMT. :)
 
Started sanding the edges on the rear fins. I changed from balsa to bass wood.
Flail rear fins beveled.jpg

JP
 
Looking good.
I like Basswood. I used it on my TLP ALARM that I Kitbashed/Modified. It's very easy to work with.
 
One of the front fins had a twist in it, so I made a fixture and used CA on it while bending it
by hand. I'm pleased with the results, I got most of it out!
Sorry about the focus, I've never figured out how to manually focus it.
This should be better>Flail front fins done.jpg
before >Flail front fin twisted before.jpg after>Flail front fin twisted After.jpg

JP
 
Sorry about the focus, I've never figured out how to manually focus it.
JP

Try using the camera's Macro setting to get clear, up close shots.

After I got the forward fins into the desired shape, epoxy was brushed onto all the edges and corners on the inside of the fin(s). This really stiffens 'em up. The outside surfaces of the fins were soaked with thin CA to help resist all the sanding 'n filling that will be needed for you to produce good looking forward fins
 
Forward fins glued in place.Flail front fins glued.jpg
10-4 on the epoxy Brady. I've got some thin CA on order. I ran out fast building these TLP kits!
At first I didn't like all the paper parts but it's going to work out OK. Makes for a lighter rocket,
maybe higher flights or using a lesser motor and saving a few bucks.

I had the camera on close-ups. Sometimes when I use the flash on close-ups it turns out too bright.

I like working with the Bass wood too. Sands very easy and it's light as well.

JP
 
I had the camera on close-ups. Sometimes when I use the flash on close-ups it turns out too bright.

I like working with the Bass wood too. Sands very easy and it's light as well.

JP


To help prevent 'wash out' from to much flash, cut out a piece of printer paper and tape (scotch tape) it over the flash lens. This will diffuse the light and you get some really good close ups. This works very well for me!

I agree with you about the bass wood, it's great to work with.
 
To help prevent 'wash out' from to much flash, cut out a piece of printer paper and tape (scotch tape) it over the flash lens. This will diffuse the light and you get some really good close ups. This works very well for me!

I agree with you about the bass wood, it's great to work with.
I had forgot about that old trick with the paper over the flash.
Here's a shot of the rear fins glued on today.
Flail rear fins glued.jpg

I managed to stuff into the body tube through the chute shelf a bundle of "scrubber pad". This should
enable me to go without using the pieces of wadding. We'll see!
After doing this it added some weight to the back end so I'm thinking about extending the nose end with
a few inches of body tube. Maybe not. Right now I'm just to lazy to draw it up in OpenRocket to see for sure.
No big investment so no worries. I'll be remotely shooting the smaller rockets.

JP
 
I went ahead and added 3" to the tube. Used a coupler and Titebond II wood glue.
Bondo Glazing & spot Puddy used to fill any voids.
Flail coupler and 3 inches added.jpgFlail 3 inches taller.jpg

JP
 
I like it!!!:clap:

That said, I've learned the hard way to never use Titebond II inside a Body Tube.:( Even Titebond III has set up on me too soon if I'm not careful.
 
She's coming along nice JP! It's a great looking bird for sure.

:)


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I like it!!!:clap:

That said, I've learned the hard way to never use Titebond II inside a Body Tube.:( Even Titebond III has set up on me too soon if I'm not careful.
I know what ya mean, I used a putty knife and smoothed out the glue right after taking the picture.
She's coming along nice JP! It's a great looking bird for sure.

:)


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Thanks! Your Nike Smoke looks Great!
Layed up some fillets using fillets using glue.jpg
I cut off the threads from the end of the syringe, makes more nipple stick out! This method
makes a nice fillet of glue.
Flail fillets.jpg
I'll be using Mini Rail buttons on this bird too. I've got to figure out how I'm going to mount the rail
to my speaker stand, soon. I just hate to start drilling into the aluminum center pole.

JP
 
About the TBII, I was referring to trying to insert a Coupler and having it only go in so far, as in not far enough.
In my Case, I was trying to install a Baffle in my TLP ALARM, and as I was pushing it into position it froze up. I pushed harder, and crumpled the Body Tube. Not my finest moment.:facepalm:
 
About the TBII, I was referring to trying to insert a Coupler and having it only go in so far, as in not far enough.
In my Case, I was trying to install a Baffle in my TLP ALARM, and as I was pushing it into position it froze up. I pushed harder, and crumpled the Body Tube. Not my finest moment.:facepalm:
Dang, that would be a bad moment! :surprised:
You're right, it sets up fast upon contact. My first tail cone on these TLP kits got crushed because of the TBII grabbing
on Tite! Good thing I was able to take the cone apart and make another.

JP
 
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