so what's the deal with squadron putty?

is it similar to bondo?

I would really like a light weight sandable filler.

SGP will shrink and crack if used in large areas but can be thinned with plastic cement (the liquid - I've never tried the gel). It polishes nicely with gel toothpaste or a ScotchBrite pad. For large area filling, drip CA in then dip or shovel SIG MicroBalloons in. Give it time to cure (don't use stale CA or you'll wait forever) then knock the remaining MicroBalloons back into the can. Repeat as necessary then give the area a rough sanding. Thin some Squadron Putty (they also make a White) and cover the MicroBalloons, fine sand and polish.

I wouldn't call any putty lightweight, but SGP is very handy for chips, nicks, gouges and other irregularities. Dries quick and sands very well without sanding off everything around it.

A lot of my rockets have some under the paint. I'll also use it to fill any deep balsa grain that shows up after priming.

Please describe how you fill the balsa grain.

I use the white and thin with acetone. It does not take much and it dries very very fast.



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NAR86238 said:

is it similar to bondo?

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Whew! When i saw the subject of this thread, I was afraid that you were going to ask "what's the difference between the 'Green' and the 'White'?"

-- Roger

Simple!
You don't need any of this HEAVY stuff. SGP, SWP or Bondo!
There are other ways to create a babies butt smooth finish without the need for Grain or Spiral fillers. (other then cheapy Primer that is
I haven't use a single drop of any kind of Filler on over 15 years.

thanks for the tips


I have a model where I modified a NC to serve as a transition from a BT50 to fit as a sleeve over a BT20. I like smooth lines and it all looks good except the need for a little filler at the BT20 end

I just cant believe that there is no light-weight clay like filler on the market for these applications...

I guess I could try expoxy overloaded with microballons or even yellow glue with MB's then hardened with CA... dunno?

Micromeister said:

There are other ways to create a babies butt smooth finish without the need for Grain or Spiral fillers. (other then cheapy Primer that is
I haven't use a single drop of any kind of Filler on over 15 years.

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Care to enlighten us?

NAR86238 said:

snip... I just cant believe that there is no light-weight clay like filler on the market for these applications...

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Micromeister said:

snip...
You don't need any of this HEAVY stuff. SGP, SWP or Bondo!...snip

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A dab of filler doesn't amount to anything. Seriously. Certainly nothing I would consider "weight."

Lowpuller said:

Please describe how you fill the balsa grain.

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After I've used laquer sanding sealer (2 or 3 coats), sanded, primed (sometimes just once, sometimes more) and sanded, if anything shows, I'll rub or scrape a bit of SGP on the offending area and sand smooth. It amounts to nothing. I'd bet the same volume of paint weights as much or more.

For those who are interested, there are water-based alternatives to solvent-based putties: Vallejo Plastic Putty (which I use on my scale models) and Perfect Plastic Putty by Deluxe Materials (this product has received great reviews). One of the advantages of using the water-based putty is that when it it dry, you can use a rubbing alcohol to wipe away the excess putty, leaving it in the gap, thus not having to worry about sanding away surface detail.

On balsa parts that are just dented you can wet them with water use an iron or heat gun and in all but the most severe case the wood will expand and the dent will disappear.

When I do use a filler I use this.



This comes in 8 ounce plastic jars. The 8 ounces is by volume not weight since it feels like it is empty when you pick the jar up. If it dries out in the jar it can be thinned with water. It sands nicely. There is also a balsa colored version besides the white.

What about that lightweight spackling you get at the hardware stores DAP I think it is called

Sure PhlAsh:
You can read all about it in the Library section of Narhams.org Tech-tips-002 through 005 take you from bare wood & cardboard to finished product. Including the many options for filling Grain and spirals.

Personally I've been using Only the Cheapest Sanding Grey Auto primer I can get as the base for all my models since the late 90's. ONLY Dry sanding...Primer is porous which allows Wet sanding to penetrate into and soften standard Model Cardboard tubes. Dry sanding to 320g is as fine as is needed on primers unless your looking for a particular spot flaw. and NO Rattle Can Clear Coats on the entire model either
All the tips and tricks are in the Articles for everyone to use....ANYONE can product a Babies butt smooth model rocket finish..it all depends on how much time you wish to invest in your model(s).
Hope this helps.

AfterBurners said:

What about that lightweight spackling you get at the hardware stores DAP I think it is called

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Same stuff as the Hobbylite except about 1/3rd the price.