Anyone Remember The Eggspress???

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Did you FG the nosecone too?

No, it should be fine with its plasticy self, and already came with a nice coat of paint. I'll likely just lightly sand it and add a single coat of a more yellow spray to it. It is obviously faded from being old, but on my original I just left the plastic unpainted, and I want that shade of yellow when I'm done.
 
It's funny how my FG wraps always end up with a Cat Fur or two in them, no matter how clean I try to make my work area.

Cat Hair 003.jpg
 
Looking good Top! I may need to try glassing at some point. Recommend any tutorials?

Thanks! I love the texture of glass cloth.
As for Tutorials, I highly recommend John Cokers Videos. He is kinda' geared toward the larger stuff, but it's a great place to start, and his method for doing the ends of the tube with the couplers and teflon tape are worth learning.
For the smaller stuff like this I usually just cut my cloth to size+1/4" overlap and about 2" overhang for the edges then lay the cloth flat on a sheet of Parchment Paper on my workbench. I use my Nitrile Glove clad finger to apply the Epoxy evenly to the entire surface of the tube, after proper prep sanding, then just roll the tube onto the cloth. Then I smooth it out with my fingers again after changing into a fresh set of Nitrile Gloves.
After I get the excess trimmed off the edges, and the tube has cured for at least 12 more hours, I put on another set of gloves and rub Gorilla Brand Super Glue into the edges and let that cure before sanding, so as to get a super smooth edge, with no fear of damaging the bond between the glass and the tube. Before glassing I make the edges of the tube slightly more sanded than I do the rest of the tube, so the epoxy can "Bite" and yield maximum adhesion between the two. The Gorilla Brand CA is just to seal that up and for insurance. After the sanding is done I rub some more CA into it to make it shiny. You could probably just seal the cut with more epoxy, but then you would have to wait for that to cure again.
 
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Thanks! I love the texture of glass cloth.
As for Tutorials, I highly recommend John Cokers Videos. He is kinda' geared toward the larger stuff, but it's a great place to start, and his method for doing the ends of the tube with the couplers and teflon tape are worth learning.
For the smaller stuff like this I usually just cut my cloth to size+1/4" overlap and about 2" overhang for the edges then lay the cloth flat on a sheet of Parchment Paper on my workbench. I use my Nitrile Glove clad finger to apply the Epoxy evenly to the entire surface of the tube, after proper prep sanding, then just roll the tube onto the cloth. Then I smooth it out with my fingers again after changing into a fresh set of Nitrile Gloves.
After I get the excess trimmed off the edges, and the tube has cured for at least 12 more hours, I put on another set of gloves and rub Gorilla Brand Super Glue into the edges and let that cure before sanding, so as to get a super smooth edge, with no fear of damaging the bond between the glass and the tube. Before glassing I make the edges of the tube slightly more sanded than I do the rest of the tube, so the epoxy can "Bite" and yield maximum adhesion between the two. The Gorilla Brand CA is just to seal that up and for insurance. After the sanding is done I rub some more CA into it to make it shiny. You could probably just seal the cut with more epoxy, but then you would have to wait for that to cure again.

Thanks sir! I will check his videos out!
 
I ordered my CRs and MMT yesterday and got shipping info E-mail from BMS today, so I'll have the parts to continue this build in a few days.:)
 
I got my MMT and CR components from BMS today, and assembled the MMT. I am still waiting on the aluminum retainer from Rocketarium.
I also need to come up with a way to mount my Rail Guides or Buttons.
 
TR...

Keep your eyes peeled on my .ork files thread... I'm planning on uploading my egg carriers there soon... Scrambler/Eggspress, Scrambler II, and the EnerJet Egg Crate.

Sunny Side Up!
Jim

Awesome! Thanks for the heads up. You know I like seeing you work your Openrocket Magic.
Sadly, my Computer is just hanging on by a thread as far as usefulness goes, and there's something going on that causes me to not be able to open Openrocket. I'll be getting a new Computer soon though, and look forward to using some of your .ork files.
 
Awesome! Thanks for the heads up. You know I like seeing you work your Openrocket Magic.
Sadly, my Computer is just hanging on by a thread as far as usefulness goes, and there's something going on that causes me to not be able to open Openrocket. I'll be getting a new Computer soon though, and look forward to using some of your .ork files.

My OpenRocket magic is powered by Voodoo... (Doughnuts).

Voodoo-Donuts-logo-design.jpg
 
The Scrambler II fins are giving me some problems... Thus preventing me from uploading it. I need to manipulate the fin shape into black and white, then scale it properly before it's ready for uploading. My Scrambler II build used printouts of the fins, and not a .pdf generated from OR. Also, my transition was taken from a cannibalized Extreme 12 (thus injection molded), and not from the blow molded part attached to the PNC-60NA. I want to verify the shape of the blow molded part as well.

The Eggspress (1996) and Scrambler (2072) will be up shortly... But first... A teaser image...

Estes Eggspress (1996)(Stock)
 
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Oh... and last year I had a paint malfunction... I attempted to see if I could get the popcorn like finish to even out by adding more paint. Take it from me... You can't.

So I set my Eggspress E (E powered mod) aside and went on to something else. All this about egg lofters has me interested in the project again... So, I spent a lot of time tonight sanding off a lot of paint. I don't know if I've done enough (in a few spots I can see the grey primer clearly showing through), but I think I've done enough sanding to perhaps try priming this again (white) before attempting to hit it with the gloss white. This time though, I'll make sure that I warm the can before I start trying to paint.

Had I not wanted to put the decals on, I should have left this in the white primer... It was looking good!
 
Got the Rocketarium Retainer ground out to fit the heavy walled BMS MMT BT-50. Worked well.
Now I have all the pieces except the Launch Lugs and standoffs built, so I can go ahead and begin assembly.:)

EggspressMMT Assembly 2015-04-06 004.jpg
 
I have what is starting to look like an Eggspress!
I love the way the Rocketarium retainers look in BT-55 tubes.


Eggspress 24mm Assembled 60% 2015-04-07 004.jpgEggspress 24mm Assembled 60% 2015-04-07 005.jpgEggspress 24mm Assembled 60% 2015-04-07 007.jpg
 
Ooooooh, that's looking good!

("Legs off, fins on, simple metal tube through the back of the head..." "You'd need a big tank!")
-Monty Python, Pet shop sketch!
 
I have what is starting to look like an Eggspress!

I think it's looking a lot like a Scrambler :wink:

Really though, you should make a Scrambler too (and a Scrambler II while you're at it).

Just Yolking with you...
Jim (the cracked)
 
Ooooooh, that's looking good!

("Legs off, fins on, simple metal tube through the back of the head..." "You'd need a big tank!")
-Monty Python, Pet shop sketch!

Thanks Kirk.:)

I really like the looks of this design, and as I mentioned in the beginning of this thread, it was my "Rocket from childhood that I wanted back the most", so it's very rewarding to see it all come together.
I'm waiting to get my Micro-Buttons in the mail so I can see how I will incorporate them to work on the lug standoffs.
I'de like to fly this from my 1500mm Makerbeam Rails that are on their way to me.

In the meanwhile, I played in Openrocket. Thanks for letting me know about Photostudio in OR K'Tesh!!


Eggs on the Meadow..jpg
 
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I gently sanded the join where the fin meets the tube with 120 grit Sandpaper wrapped around the edge of my Petco Rewards Card so that it would absorb PC Superpoxy nicely, then laid in some fillets. I used my nitrile glove clad finger to smooth them out then followed that with an acetone soaked paper towel to clean up the excess.
PC Superpoxy works well for this as you can do all the fillets at once since it does not sag or run.
I have been trying to get away from using fillets in favor of TTW or tip to tip but on this model the fillets seem to be the most appropriate approach. It's not a Scale Model or geared toward peak performance in an any way.


Todays Things 2015-04-09 002.jpg
 
"The Early Years" circa 1991. I won 1st & 3rd place in two separate spot landing events at the Univ. of South Florida College of Engineering Rocketry Invitational. One of the events was an egg loft spot landing competition and the other a standard chute/streamer spot landing event. My rocket friends and I had our own feature in our 8th grade yearbook at our elementary school that year. I still have my kit boxed up somewhere. (Trying to upload a picture)

eugenefl_1991.jpg
 
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I got the standoffs for the launch lugs made today. I'm going to get them on there now, one at a time so that I can line the two up perfectly by clamping something flat to both of them while the second one dries.
I wanted to use micro buttons on this bird but I don't like my options for mounting them so were going with old school launch lugs.
 
I kept getting "Discontinuity in body tube" warning on the sim so I found that it was caused by the Phantom Body Tubes that K'Tesh used for modeling the LL Standoffs and the Motor Hook.
I got rid of them and the sim figures changed radically.
Glad I noticed and corrected it.
 
Got those on there, then realized the best way to do the lugs themselves is as one piece using the tube you see atop the clothespins, then I'll cut away the unnecessary portion in the middle. This will give perfect alignment with no guess work.:)

eGGSPRESS 2015-04-26 003.jpg
 
I kept getting "Discontinuity in body tube" warning on the sim so I found that it was caused by the Phantom Body Tubes that K'Tesh used for modeling the LL Standoffs and the Motor Hook.
I got rid of them and the sim figures changed radically.
Glad I noticed and corrected it.

I looked at what you did (over in my .ork file thread), and you didn't add the LL back in. Those do add drag, and you should think about how their presence or absence may affect your rocket's actual performance.
 
Well, it was unable to go over 1000 Ft. even on the more powerful 24mm composite motors. It just seemed that the sim stats were totally unrealistic.
 
Got the launch lug stock on. Before the JB Weld fully cures I'll clean it up a little with some acetone and Q-tips.
When it is all cleaned up, cured and cut, I'll place thin veils of .75oz glass cloth over them from the body on one side right over to the other side to fully integrate them. Another model that is built to last!!!

Eggspress launchlugs 2015-04-27 001.jpg
 
Many times over decades. BT-56 parts will not fit into BT-55 tubes without splitting the BT-55 tube.


I agree with Fred on this one. A BT-56 nose cone isn't going to fit inside a BT-55 body tube. There may be a slim chance and I do mean slim chance that there is enough thickness on the plastic shoulder that you can sand it done enough to fit inside a BT-55 body tube. An alternative would be to remove a layer of paper out from the inside of a BT-55 body tube just at the top where the shoulder fits into. Of course I believe Semroc sales the original Centuri equivalent diameter tube.

John Boren
 
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