Repairing cardboard tube damage

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Nathan

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Apr 19, 2012
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My Porsche DX3 was damaged a couple of weeks ago when then upper and lower sections crashed together hard during parachute deployment. I just finished repairing it, and I took some pictures of the process.

The lower section got the most damage so I am only showing the repair of the lower section. The impact was hard enough to tear the cardboard tube. One of the fins also got slightly dinged up.
pdx3fixa.jpg


First step was to sand down the damaged area.
pdx3fixb.jpg


Then I did a repair job using Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty. I wouldn't want a body shop using this stuff on my car but it's great for rockets. This picture was after 3 coats of Bondo. After each coat I dry sanded with 600 grit. It may not look smooth from this picture but it is.
pdx3fixc.jpg


The texture of the Bondo will show through the paint unless it gets covered with primer. Here it is masked for primer.
pdx3fixd.jpg


I lightly sanded the primer with 400 grit and feathered the edges of the primered area so that there will be no visible ridges once it's repainted. This picture is with the rocket masked for spraying black. Notice that although only one fin was damaged, I am repainting both, to make the repair less visible.
pdx3fixe.jpg


I forgot to take a picture after spraying the black paint. Here it is after spraying black, waiting 3 days, and then wet sanding the repainted area with 2000 grit.
pdx3fixf.jpg


After polishing and waxing it's as good as new! :)
pdx3fixg.jpg


The only sign of the repair job is the barely visible paint edge just below the Porsche emblem.
pdx3fixh.jpg
 
That finish always amazes me. The fact that it's a repair even more so. Great job!
 
Beautiful job!

I just read somebody else's comment on what they did rocketry related this weekend, and they spoke of their Neon XL rocket doing a nose plant, burried into the ground when chute failed to deploy properly.
I had a wake up moment, as I suddenly realize that I've just ordered that same rocket this Xmas and it could happen to me!

The poster talked about cutting away the end of the tube where it had crumpled, and just shortening up the main tube to repair and launch again soon.
IS that possible? Doesn't that alter some of the weight/thrust ratio? Move the CP or CG or something like that?

It never occured to me that I might have to repair the main tube....though I have cracked off a fin a half a dozen times so far in my career. Guess I've been lucky?

How often does one have a CATO or plant a rocket? (I hate to think of all that time and effort, not to mention expense on a larger rocket, to plant and destroy it in a moment.)
 
Very nice work Nathan. See, I told ya it would buff right out.
That hard line below the porsche emblem would be a tough one to make dissappear, and you nearly have done that too.
TimE
 
Very nice work Nathan. See, I told ya it would buff right out.
That hard line below the porsche emblem would be a tough one to make dissappear, and you nearly have done that too.
TimE

It's almost impossible to make enamel paint lines disappear. If it was lacquer it would be invisible.
 
Beautiful job!

I just read somebody else's comment on what they did rocketry related this weekend, and they spoke of their Neon XL rocket doing a nose plant, burried into the ground when chute failed to deploy properly.
I had a wake up moment, as I suddenly realize that I've just ordered that same rocket this Xmas and it could happen to me!

The poster talked about cutting away the end of the tube where it had crumpled, and just shortening up the main tube to repair and launch again soon.
IS that possible? Doesn't that alter some of the weight/thrust ratio? Move the CP or CG or something like that?

It never occured to me that I might have to repair the main tube....though I have cracked off a fin a half a dozen times so far in my career. Guess I've been lucky?

How often does one have a CATO or plant a rocket? (I hate to think of all that time and effort, not to mention expense on a larger rocket, to plant and destroy it in a moment.)

I repaired the LOC Iris in the picture below after it crashed (elastic shock cord broke). I cut off the damaged top end of the tube and spliced on a new section of tube with a coupler, making the repaired rocket 8" longer. I don't have a pic of the repaired rocket.

If you just cut off the damaged end of the tube you need to check the stability using OpenRocket or RockSim. It may be necessary to add some nose weight depending on how much you shorten the rocket.

iriscrash.jpg
 
I call bluff, I think that last picture was a picture of the rocket before the crash...
:p


Nathan, how many hours do you spend painting and sanding and filling until the final product? 20 or so?
 
I call bluff, I think that last picture was a picture of the rocket before the crash...

Damn, you figured it out! Actually, notice my red 38mm Onyx in the background, which I just painted a couple of days ago.


Nathan, how many hours do you spend painting and sanding and filling until the final product? 20 or so?

It depends, multi-color paint jobs take a lot longer. My record was the 4 color paint job on my Minie-Magg which took me 5 weeks, although most of that time was just waiting for paint to dry. Of the actual finishing work, the part that takes the most time is sanding. Painting doesn't take much time but my paint room is also used for other things when I'm not painting, so every time I spray I have to spread drop cloths, set up lights and a fan and sometimes a heater. Then after I'm done spraying I have to take it all down again.
 
What clearcoating/waxing do you use to get that high-gloss a finish?

I get the high gloss finish by wet sanding and polishing enamel paint, and then applying a coat of car wax. There are other ways to get a high gloss finish but that's how I do it. For a detailed description of my rocket finishing process and the products that I use, see my Minie-Magg paint thread from last year. I have made some minor changes to my process since I built the Magg but it's basically the same.
 
Very nice job OP, where did you get the bondo putty? would a place like lordco or napa have it?
 
I call bluff, I think that last picture was a picture of the rocket before the crash...
:p


That's a good one,,,,,,,,,,
I got a good chuckle there,,,,,,,,,,,
Nathan I think Matt's got you all figured out..........

Nathan,,,
May I ask,,,,,,,,
Your finishes are legendary..........
They take a lot of work............
Why don't you build out of a stronger material like fiberglass
so the finished product is less likely to be damaged.................

Teddy
 
@ CRC; Bondo spot & glazing putty (essentially real thick primer) yes most any auto parts store (or automotive section at your local hardware store) should carry it. also works wonders on plywood parts :).
Rex
 
Very nice job OP, where did you get the bondo putty? would a place like lordco or napa have it?

I got the Bondy putty at Advance Auto Parts but as Rex said, any auto parts store should carry it.

Nathan,,,
May I ask,,,,,,,,
Your finishes are legendary..........
They take a lot of work............
Why don't you build out of a stronger material like fiberglass
so the finished product is less likely to be damaged.................

Teddy

Cardboard Super DX3: $85
Fiberglass Super DX3: $250
animated-smileys-shocked.gif


I'm doing a 7 foot tall 4" diameter scratch build right now and I'm using Blue Tube. That should be able to take more abuse than the cardboard tubes.

Hey Teddy, I need more shock cords, I'll be sending you an order soon.
 
You've got it Nathan,,,,,,,,,,
Let me know what you need...........

I'm sure I'll be seeing you at Higgs................

Teddy
 
Thanks sabastian, Rex & Nathan, I've never worked with bondo, Name wise, do I look for spot & glaze bondo? Or even better queston what dont I want to use? Dont know the differances of diff bondo products. Nathan have you found any brands better then other or brands to stay away from?
 
There is one very important distinction between the 2 Bondo glazing products..........
Bondo glazing compound is a one part product,,,,,,,
you have to wait for it to dry and it isn't very strong,,,,
and it works better on something like a paper wound tube,,,,,,
it won't adhere well to fiberglass .........

Bondo professional glazing compound is a 2 part product,,,,,,,
it is much stronger,,, though still not as strong as Bondo body filler,,,,,
it adheres very well to properly prepared fiberglass and metal,,,,,,,,
it hardens as all 2 part products do, as opposed to drying
and has a very short pot life / work time............

Personally,,, I didn't like the 1 part product,,,,,
the 2 part product I liked very much.........

Teddy


This information is from Bondo..............
 
I've never had an issue with one part glazing/spot putty, but you can't expect too much if it. I wouldn't go filling in 1/4 inch deep holes with it. But surface imperfections and pinholes in paint, fillets etc. It works great. Especially so with hand fiberglassed airframes
 

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