Astrocam 2014

The Rocketry Forum

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Tramper Al

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2013
Messages
400
Reaction score
36
If it works out, this may be a rather long term build. My intention in to build and fly an Astrocam which outwardly looks quite like the 1989 (the year I graduated college!) version while housing a modern digital camera of some sort. I expect the tricky part will be getting one of the key fob type cameras to line up with the rather small forward window of the Astrocam. We'll see.

IMG_0825.jpg

That is shrink wrap, and the Astrocam just arrived by mail an hour ago.

IMG_0826.jpg

Yes, that is the 1989 Estes catalog inside - and this is how I am dating this project basis for now. My plan has been to duplicate the nosecone/payload look with a modern camera and then fly it on the old rocket. But now I am considering trying to keep the original Astrocam 110 stock and intact, duplicating the launch vehicle as well. Anybody know where I can get more stickers?

I think this is going to be interesting . . .
 
Last edited:
If it works out, this may be a rather long term build. My intention in to build and fly an Astrocam which outwardly looks quite like the 1989 (the year I graduated college!) version while housing a modern digital camera of some sort. I expect the tricky part will be getting one of the key fob type cameras to line up with the rather small forward window of the Astrocam. We'll see.

View attachment 158374

That is shrink wrap, and the Astrocam just arrived by mail an hour ago.

View attachment 158375

Yes, that is the 1989 Estes catalog inside - and this is how I am dating this project basis for now. My plan has been to duplicate the nosecone/payload look with a modern camera and then fly it on the old rocket. But now I am considering trying to keep the original Astrocam 110 stock and intact, duplicating the launch vehicle as well. Anybody know where I can get more stickers?

I think this is going to be interesting . . .

I remember that Catalog!!!
 
Anybody know where I can get more stickers?

I'd go to Gord (aka Sandman) (Excelsiorrocketry.com) if you are trying to get replica decals.

Me, I'm trying the same kind of thing, however I'm looking to do it with a Cineroc (Cat. No. 701-RC-8). However, I'm not trying for a stock appearance, I'm looking to replicate the model used for the 1974 catalog.

BTW... I still have that catalog (1989).
 
Last edited:
Cool project. I always liked the astrocam. I lost one to a group of trees back in 1998. I eventually recovered the nose cone, but the booster was a total loss. I just fly the Astrocam nose cone on what ever booster I feel like sticking it on these days. Right now it's flying on a slightly trimed down Amazon rocket. I guess with would be a worth project for me to build a clone booster for my Astrocam. I'll follow this thread and see if I can learn something.

David
 
I should add, I made my Astro Cams (I made 2, now have 3) as "look back" versions. I bought a tech manual from Estes that showed how to do it back in the '90's.

One modification that I did to mine, was to lose the nose cone, and use the plastic fin can to create the connection between the camera and the coupler. My launch vehicles were modified Helio Copter (1995) (circa 1994) rockets.

I'm quite happy with the appearance of the results... except the only one I "launched" (I faked it so I could avoid a rather annoying arrest/confinement/fines) wouldn't advance the film so I wasn't able to get the shot I built it for... I *just* tossed (as in, the last hour) that film (20 years later).

Seemed stupid to me that Estes didn't make the camera capable of being flipped for look forward/look back options (by default it's look forward). Not much need for it now as the 808 #16 video camera has taken the hobby market by storm. Some enterprising rocketeer with access to a 3D printer could make the parts needed to do it though.

Now that I've read about your intentions, I may make the "broken" one of mine into one that carries an 808 camera in it too. Might make my fake shot a hell of a lot easier too... I just use a still from the video, rather than a "lucky shot".
 
Last edited:
I should add, I made my Astro Cams (I made 2, now have 3) as "look back" versions. I bought a tech manual from Estes that showed how to do it back in the '90's.

One modification that I did to mine, was to lose the nose cone, and use the plastic fin can to create the connection between the camera and the coupler. My launch vehicles were modified Helio Copter (1995) (circa 1994) rockets.

I'm quite happy with the appearance of the results... except the only one I "launched" (I faked it so I could avoid a rather annoying arrest/confinement/fines) wouldn't advance the film so I wasn't able to get the shot I built it for... I *just* tossed (as in, the last hour) that film (20 years later).

Seemed stupid to me that Estes didn't make the camera capable of being flipped for look forward/look back options (by default it's look forward). Not much need for it now as the 808 #16 video camera has taken the hobby market by storm. Some enterprising rocketeer with access to a 3D printer could make the parts needed to do it though.

Now that I've read about your intentions, I may make the "broken" one of mine into one that carries an 808 camera in it too. Might make my fake shot a hell of a lot easier too... I just use a still from the video, rather than a "lucky shot".

Why wouldn't it advance the film?? Was the film locked up?? Or did you turn the thumbwheel to advance the film and nothing happened??

The first problem, turning the wheel and it "locking up" was usually caused by not depressing the "film lock" before starting to advance the film by turning the thumbwheel... This was a small square black button adjacent to the film door/cover over the back of the camera housing... You were supposed to depress this small square/rectangular button and then advance the thumbwheel a bit and then IMMEDIATELY release the button. The button was mounted to a roughly "C" shaped plastic piece that held a small plastic "tooth" in the film pathway along the edge of the film itself. The film had a tiny rectangular "index hole" on the edge of the film that this tooth was supposed to catch to "lock" the film in place, so it was indexed or centered directly under the lens for the next exposure. The only problem was, this little tooth would sometimes miss, especially if the button was a little 'tight fitting' or if a little grit or dirt got in there and caused the button to stick partway down when released, preventing it from popping back up the fraction of an inch necessary to put the tooth back in contact with the film... Pressing the button lowered the tooth away from the film enough that a slight turn of the thumbwheel would start the film sliding forward toward the next frame... releasing the button was supposed to allow the tooth to jump back up into contact with the film, where the film would slide underneath it until the next hole aligned with the tooth, at which point the tooth would drop down into the hole in the film and lock the film in place for the next picture to be taken. If the tooth missed, the numbers for the next exposure would simply roll on by in the frame number window, and you'd have to "pry upwards" a bit on the button to get it to pop up enough to catch the NEXT available hole on the next frame of film-- the one you missed simply remained unexposed on the roll, since there was no way to rewind the film to try again... this was a fairly common problem I had on the Astrocam...

The other issue was, unless you got the film cassette installed good and snug, and kept it snug, sometimes the teeth on the thumbwheel wouldn't fully engage the teeth on the winding sprocket on the film cassette that advanced the film. Usually this was a problem that would pop up upon loading the film into the camera since you had to advance the film several winds to get past the "protective layer" wound around the film in the cassette to get to the first exposure, and basically you could feel when the thumbwheel was "freewheeling" and not under the load of pulling film through the cassette and winding it around the takeup spool inside the cassette. Usually a slight adjustment of the film cassette would get it to drop down a fraction of an inch more, engaging the teeth on the thumbwheel advance drive and the teeth on the pickup spool in the cassette. Sometimes if it landed hard just the right way though, the cassette would shift a small bit, just enough to allow the teeth on the thumbwheel gear to jump or skip over the teeth on the pickup spool gear on the cassette. I usually took the Astrocam into a very dark closet and opened the back door (which the instructions said never to open until the film was fully exposed and fully wound to the finished position, which covered the exposed film with a protective layer to prevent any light leaks from ruining the exposures). By feel in the closet I'd carefully pop the back door off, wiggle the cassette a bit while pushing down on it until I could feel it fully seat, then pop the door back on and try the thumbwheel again... Usually that'd do the trick. If not another attempt usually did.

As far as the "look forward/look back" feature... the Astrocam was ALWAYS intended to look DOWN. It's just that in the DESIGNED operational scheme, you were supposed to use a -7 upper stage long-delay motor so that the rocket soared up to apogee, nosed over, and started to fall vertically downward before the ejection charge went off-- this would then pop the shutter and take a photo of whatever the rocket was over at the time, at various downward angles. If you used a -5 regular delay length motor, in theory the rocket would take a "horizon" shot, that is, a shot from a "near horizontal" position, IN THEORY, depending on a few assumptions-- that is, assuming the rocket coasted to apogee and was in the midst of "nosing over" at apogee to start falling back to earth when the ejection charge popped the shutter. If the rocket was still "nose high" you usually got clouds-- if the rocket had already nosed over and was near vertical, the results were nearly indistinguishable from the long-delay motor shots... usually the rocket was in some kind of a combination rolling-tumble as it nosed over and the shot ended up uselessly blurred. Since there was no control over the direction the rocket nosed over, or the attitude of the rocket when it rolled over or ejected, and no control over how the camera was "clocked" in relation to the horizon (IE what direction it was in the roll axis) the resulting shot, IF it even worked, could be "upside down", "sideways", or right-side-up, or basically any angle in between... usually that "any angle in between"... meaning the resulting picture was "lopsided" and turned at a weird angle, or rather the horizon appeared at a weird angle to the frame of the picture...

The "rearward facing" Astrocam came about after some folks started experimenting with them and someone got the bright idea to take pictures of the moment of staging on a two stager or multistager, when the stages blew apart, by lengthening the shutter trip cord with some extra string and pinching it between the stage couplers while prepping the rocket. The rocket would take off normally, and when the stage blew off the model, it would release the trip cord and the camera would snap the pic, and whatever was behind the rocket on the ground below. I suppose that if one would use a short-delay motor (-3 motor) that you theoretically COULD take a picture behind the rocket looking downward while the rocket was still coasting upward... but it would of course by definition have to be BEFORE apogee, and thus NOT at the highest altitude the rocket could theoretically achieve... and also usually early deployments tend to be rather hard on the rocket, parachute, and shock cord of course...

Personally, the best shots I got from the Astrocam was from launching it on the Maniac-- the Maniac was a bigger rocket with the same BT-56 size tube that the Astrocam was designed for, with a much better plastic fin can than the standard Astrocam rocket came with, and it was designed for 24mm motors as well rather than the smaller 18mm motors of the Astrocam rocket... The Astrocam was a direct-replacement for the standard Maniac nosecone. I have catalogs from the early 80's that recommended the "Challenger II" for a "D-powered" launch vehicle for the Astrocam-- by the time I got around to getting one, the black fincan and gold trim cool looking Challenger II rocket had been "restyled" into the rather garish and tacky blue fincan and nosecone and yellow tube and fugly decals and renamed the "Maniac" (which has subsequently been re-trimmed and renamed again to today's "Eliminator"). With a D12-7, the Maniac would boost the Astrocam to a really good height, probably about as high as you'd want to go to get any usable detail of anything on the ground anyway, given the limitations of the film and camera design (lens and mirror size) and usually result in the same sort of "straight down" picture as a C6-7, but from much greater height. Similarly a D12-5 motor in the Astrocam/Maniac would result in some sort of horizon shot, if one wanted to burn some motors and roll to dice to see what you got. Pretty much just like the C6-5 motor shots, only from greater height... some sky/cloud shots, some badly blurred if the rocket was rotating around or spinning or tumbling when the chute popped out, maybe half the time some sort of horizon shot, usually cocked over at a weird angle to the picture frame... I suppose a rearward looking Astrocam could have been used to shoot rearward facing pics from a two-stage Maniac (Estes sold a two-stage version of the Maniac later on, but I can't recall the name of it at the moment) or if one built an additional stage on their own and made it a two-stager... again, the greater height and larger "fireball" at staging would probably have been pretty dramatic...

Some other neat stuff was done with Astrocams as well... stereopairs (primitive 3D pics) were taken by attaching a pair of Astrocams to the sides of a rocket externally mounted, with their shutter strings rigged so they went off simultaneously... that way two pictures were shot at the same time from slightly different angles, creating the parallax necessary to be perceived as "3D" (sort of like those old "opera-glasses" things with the stick that stuck out in front of the viewer, that you put the pictures on the end of with enough parallax to view as a 3D image... or basically the same idea as a "View-Master" toy and picture disk (anybody remember those??)

There were also some pics taken that ended up being used in the catalog to advertise the Astrocam, which were taken apparently from an externally side-mounted Astrocam mounted below the the nosecone to take a shot of the parachute and wadding being ejected from the rocket tube itself... I remember seeing the ad of that one...

Good luck with your project! OL JR :)
 
Luke,

Interesting development (pun intended)... You got it in one.

I thought that the film release was for popping the film out of the camera, and not advancing the film. I didn't understand this about the camera and once I was tired from my hike up and above my target (about 2 hours each way, plus the altitude, and the drive to and from it (1.5 hours each way)), I let the issue drop. Since it didn't work, and my opportunities at this site were so rare (then I moved away), I never thought to pick it up and troubleshoot it with the instructions.

I pulled the ancient film out of the trash, and tried advancing it, and it's working like a charm. I now (may) have an image of my computer, desk space, and either your post, or a draft of this post, presuming that the film was (somehow) serviceable after all these years. I won't waste any motors on it, but I will try to take some of the remaining 10(ish) photos, and see what will develop.

I know that Estes used the look back version to advertise some of the Astrocams in the catalogs, yet there was no instructions (until I found that tech report) that said how to do it. I find that kind of thing to be annoying. My Helio Copter rockets were made D Powered.

I don't "do" plastic fin cans. I've always had problems with them being warped, or just too D**N ugly (swirls of colour in the plastic or other defects, as well as just unappealing shapes). I now know to unwarp a warped plastic part, I nuke some water until it's boiling or nearly so, dunk the offending area for a few seconds to a minute after it stops boiling, then twisting the warp out, and "setting" it with cold water. Still too often they look pretty D**N ugly to me. I'd rather build with balsa and paper, then fall back to injection molding (scale models excepted).

I'll have to get a photograph of my camera uploaded for everyone to see. BTW, my cameras had the dorky pre-colored body tubes (Yellow) rather than the older, and IMHO better looking white ones.

Thanks for the solution to the problem.
Jim
 
Last edited:
Luke,

Interesting development (pun intended)... You got it in one.

I thought that the film release was for popping the film out of the camera, and not advancing the film. I didn't understand this about the camera and once I was tired from my hike up and above my target (about 2 hours each way, plus the altitude, and the drive and from it (1.5 hours each way)), I let the issue drop. Since it didn't work, and my opportunities at this site were so rare (then I moved away), I never thought to pick it up and troubleshoot it with the instructions.

I pulled the ancient film out of the trash, and tried advancing it, and it's working like a charm. I now (may) have an image of my computer, desk space, and either your post, or a draft of this post, presuming that the film was (somehow) serviceable after all these years. I won't waste any motors on it, but I will try to take some of the remaining 10(ish) photos, and see what will develop.

I know that Estes used the look back version to advertise some of the Astrocams in the catalogs, yet there was no instructions (until I found that tech report) that said how to do it. I find that kind of thing to be annoying. My Helio Copter rockets were made D Powered.

I don't "do" plastic fin cans. I've always had problems with them being warped, or just too D**N ugly (swirls of colour in the plastic or other defects, as well as just unappealing shapes). I now know to unwarp a warped plastic part, I nuke some water until it's boiling or nearly so, dunk the offending area for a few seconds to a minute after it stops boiling, then twisting the warp out, and "setting" it with cold water. Still too often they look pretty D**N ugly to me. I'd rather build with balsa and paper, then fall back to injection molding (scale models excepted).

I'll have to get a photograph of my camera uploaded for everyone to see. BTW, my cameras had the dorky pre-colored body tubes (Yellow) rather than the older, and IMHO better looking white ones.

Thanks for the solution to the problem.
Jim

You're welcome... See what you can learn when you read the instructions?? LOL:) When all else fails, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS... :)

I agree that the plastic fin cans can be fugly, but the idea was that by using a rocket with plastic fin can, the thing should boost straight and true with NO ROLL induced by a slightly crooked fin. As you mentioned, though, the plastic fin cans are often warped from how they were stored or from the plastic warping when still warm after being molded, probably during extraction from the mold...

Balsa fins are fine if you do an excellent job of getting them all on straight and true and parallel to the body tube, and if you make sure that any airfoil you sand into the fins for streamlining is absolutely symmetrical... unsymmetrical airfoils can induce spin on the rocket on the way up due to lift being generated 90 degrees to the direction of flight on the more curved side of the fin, causing it to spin away from the flatter side... best to simply round the forward and aft edges and leave that as all the "streamlining" that you do... "teardrop" shaped fins (classical airfoil) is MUCH harder to get perfectly symmetrical. Of course if the fin isn't exactly straight up and down parallel to the tube, and/or straight out from the tube (90 degrees to the centerline and evenly spaced from the other fins) this can induce spin as well, and spin on the way up is bad for camera rockets-- spin on the Astrocam would result in blurry pictures a lot of the time... Tube fin rockets are much easier to construct with the tubes perfectly aligned, and thus are probably the most stable and roll-free type of camera rocket, actually...

The problem with the original Astrocam rocket was that its plastic fin can stuck the fins out behind the rocket somewhat, and that the root edge was NOT the full width of the fin... (the fin tapered back and away from the fin can a bit, then had a "flat" trailing edge out to the tip, a slightly swept front edge going back to the fin root). This created a weak spot where the fin joined the fin can. The Astrocam deliberately used an undersize parachute for fast recoveries, to minimize the chances of it drifting off never to be found again... but of course the smaller chute made for harder landings. After a few landings in plowed fields, mine showed stress cracks at the back end of the fin root edges cracking towards the front. I applied model airplane glue (which is all I had when I was a teenager) and hope that "welded up" the cracks... That was about the time I switched over to using the Challenger II/Maniac/Eliminators anyway-- back then an Eliminator kit was only about $8 bucks or so and it was a terrific Astrocam booster. I bought a couple of them actually. One snapped the rubber shock cord on the second flight and dropped the booster from probably about 1,000 feet onto recently rained on hard clay pasture... it streamlined in apparently the ground softened just enough from the inch or so of rain that the tube "core sampled" about an inch or two, then hit hard dry clay and the tube started to accordion fold from the impact-- the rocket crunched straight downward in neat accordion folds until the air trapped inside the tube was compressed to the point that it ruptured the tube, exploding outward with a loud BANG! like a shotgun going off!! The tube split along a spiral seam from the accordioned part to within about 2 inches of the fin can. I complained to Estes about the stupid rubber band failing on the SECOND FLIGHT and they sent me a new kit. I cut the old tube off right where the split stopped, and glued a coupler in to make a "booster stage" out of the old Maniac... punched a couple vent holes in the sides with a hole puncher and it worked great!

Later! OL JR :)

PS... I got the information about the Estes stereopairs and "look back" Astrocams from some Kalmbach hobby book (Experiments in Rocketry or something to that effect-- bought it at the hobby shop back in the early 90's IIRC-- had an X-wing fighter on the front cover IIRC-- it's probably in the office on the shelf if I remember right...) There was a whole chapter on photo interpretation and methods of using the Astrocam in non-conventional setups...

Course the COOLEST thing I've seen done with the keyfob cams was how Dr. Zooch gets his "chase plane" footage of staging... the camera is on a "T" or inverted "V" shaped mount sticking out away from the side of the rocket looking back towards it... He put a "dead" camera out on the other side to counterbalance the whole thing and keep it symmetrical and the weight identical on both sides (though an identical weight counterweight should work just as well...)
 
Last edited:
Spent a few hours tonight working on reviving my old Helio Copter launch body for my AstroCam.

One fin was missing (just fragments of the balsa still stuck to the body tube), one fin had snapped off (but I had the missing piece), two others were... Well, lets just say, scarred.

Now this was an unfinished rocket from my first round as a BAR (my "must-survive-a-launch-before-paint" days). So, I hadn't papered the fins (Hell, this one didn't even have dope). The fins (4) are IIRC based on the rear fins of the Sentinel. I managed to glue the damaged fin back into place, and fill the missing areas (small holes) with gap filling CA. I papered the fin, and when that turned out Ok I papered the next fin, and so on. I was really surprised to find that if I didn't know which one was snapped off, I'd never be able to tell which one it was. I replaced the missing fin with a new one, and now I'm working on the fillets (two are done, two to go).

I'm thinking about trying to create my own variation of the original black/white/gold color scheme of the original AstroCam 110 if I can find the decals. I also have a desire to make this a 2 stage rocket. However, I don't have any BT-56 couplers. Semroc also doesn't carry them (or BT-56 body tubes), unless they're listed under another labeling system (Standard? Series?). Now that it's nearly 1am, I'm disinclined to look harder, as my eyes are getting very heavy.
 
Last edited:
Use Semroc ST-13 tubes and HTC-13 couplers for BT-56. In fact, Estes borrowed the Centuri ST-13 for the Astrocam and it later became BT-56 after Centuri faded into the sunset.
 
I got some BT-56 and couplers from Uncle Mikes Rocket Shack or Sunward, can't recall which ATM...

I like the BT-56 tubes-- wish that Estes would make more rockets based on that tube size and offer more nosecone shapes for it...

Later! OL JR :)
 
I got some BT-56 and couplers from Uncle Mikes Rocket Shack or Sunward, can't recall which ATM...

I like the BT-56 tubes-- wish that Estes would make more rockets based on that tube size and offer more nosecone shapes for it...

Later! OL JR :)

I saw them on Uncle Mike's, however the cost of the shipping was more than 2x the cost of the couplers. :(

I also wish I could find the nosecones I had from my AstroCam 110's. My modification didn't use them, but I think that now I could have modified them to match my project.

Pointy Side Up!
Jim
 
I saw them on Uncle Mike's, however the cost of the shipping was more than 2x the cost of the couplers. :(

I also wish I could find the nosecones I had from my AstroCam 110's. My modification didn't use them, but I think that now I could have modified them to match my project.

Pointy Side Up!
Jim

Nosecones?? Astrocam WAS the nosecone! Or am I misunderstanding you??

AFAIK the only nosecone shape they ever released for the BT-56 from Estes was the "Eliminator" style cone... Semroc probably has more shapes, I'm sure, but from Estes-- I can't think of any others...

Later! OL JR :)
 
I think our NAR Section has an Astrocam in our used rocket box that has no 'guts' inside the camera section and it has some wear and tear. Contact the club president if you are interested and tell him to look for the 'old Astrocam in the 'trade box' - Martin Bowitz mailto:[email protected]
He can sell it to you cheap and ship it for the actual cost of shipping.

I saw them on Uncle Mike's, however the cost of the shipping was more than 2x the cost of the couplers. :(

I also wish I could find the nosecones I had from my AstroCam 110's. My modification didn't use them, but I think that now I could have modified them to match my project.

Pointy Side Up!
Jim
 
Nosecones?? Astrocam WAS the nosecone! Or am I misunderstanding you??

AFAIK the only nosecone shape they ever released for the BT-56 from Estes was the "Eliminator" style cone... Semroc probably has more shapes, I'm sure, but from Estes-- I can't think of any others...

Later! OL JR :)

Hi Luke,

I should have said the nosecone part (the parabolic shaped part) of the cameras. You see what I did with mine was I built the camera following the destructions, except I took the fin can, cut off the fins, then glued that in the place of the nosecone (then attached the fin can to a tube coupler). This way the camera looks down the length of the rocket (instead of forward/ahead of it) and be triggered by a staging event, or the ejection charge. To get it to fit, I had to trim away a little of the fin can to get the notch in the nosecone part right, but in the end, I wasn't forced to try to center the coupler on the rounded surfaces of the actual nose. This looks IMHO cleaner. It also has the advantage of being able to photograph an object while flying away from it, instead of towards it. In the event anyone was thinking that I might try... No, I wasn't trying to capture a photo of Area 51.

This isn't my camera, but it strongly resembles this one:


For the replacement of the nosecone, I'm using the NC from the Helio Copter (painted black). However, given a chance, I'd like to recapture the shape of the original.

I'll post pics soon.

Oh, the fins fillets are finished. However, I decided to opt for a 3/16" launch lug, and need to re-fillet it.

astro74.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hi Luke,

I should have said the nosecone part (the parabolic shaped part) of the cameras. You see what I did with mine was I built the camera following the destructions, except I took the fin can, cut off the fins, then glued that in the place of the nosecone (then attached the fin can to a tube coupler). This way the camera looks down the length of the rocket (instead of forward/ahead of it) and be triggered by a staging event, or the ejection charge. To get it to fit, I had to trim away a little of the fin can to get the notch in the nosecone part right, but in the end, I wasn't forced to try to center the coupler on the rounded surfaces of the actual nose. This looks IMHO cleaner. It also has the advantage of being able to photograph an object while flying away from it, instead of towards it. In the event anyone was thinking that I might try... No, I wasn't trying to capture a photo of Area 51.

This isn't my camera, but it strongly resembles this one:


For the replacement of the nosecone, I'm using the NC from the Helio Copter (painted black). However, given a chance, I'd like to recapture the shape of the original.

I'll post pics soon.

Oh, the fins fillets are finished. However, I decided to opt for a 3/16" launch lug, and need to re-fillet it.

Oh, okay... I see what you mean...

That's a pretty cool setup...

Later! OL JR :)
 
Finally got some shots of my camera... That said, I used my cell phone's camera, so they're not the best quality images.



The piece of plastic behind the decal "Frame No." is originally the fin can of the Astrocam. I used this instead of the nosecone to make the joint between the body and the payload/nosecone section.


Here's a shot looking down at the new "top" of the camera:


A view from the side:


Once I get some paint on the bodytube, I'm sure it'll start looking a lot better.
 
Last edited:
I've worked up a sim of the two stage variant of the AstoCam 110 Look Back mod.



What I'd love to see is Estes produce a digital video version of this (call it the AstoCam DV). A neat feature of my concept would allow you to invert the camera and get a look forward version (closer to the original), or remove the hood/mirror, and film horizontally (a clever person could probably design it to invert the hood and get the same kind of performance).
 

Attachments

  • Estes AstroCam 110 (Original Livery)(Look Back Mod).ork
    50.6 KB · Views: 17
Last edited:
PS... I got the information about the Estes stereopairs and "look back" Astrocams from some Kalmbach hobby book (Experiments in Rocketry or something to that effect-- bought it at the hobby shop back in the early 90's IIRC-- had an X-wing fighter on the front cover IIRC-- it's probably in the office on the shelf if I remember right...) There was a whole chapter on photo interpretation and methods of using the Astrocam in non-conventional setups ..
Luke, I wanted to thank you for mentioning this old model rocketry publication. I tracked down a copy (cheap) from Amazon, and the Astrocam suggestions are very interesting! They are more general ideas than concrete plans.
1) A pretty standard lookdown or lookback Astrocam, built using BT-55 tubes, cone.
2) A sort of Enerjet-1340 like E- and F-powered (CDI composites) vehicle, using the Maniac fin can, short ST-13 tube, and a 24mm motor tube built without the hook - so the longer motors could protrude. Actually not very different in build from a shortened Challenger II - which was also featured.
3) A boost-glider with an Astrocam mounted to the underside of the engine tube. I do question whether any of the standard gliders could handle the weight.
4) The stereo view idea is of a very large diameter rocket with two Astrocams mounted on the outside wall of the tube.
Anyway, interesting stuff.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top