What size of disk for keychain camera is needed?

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TheSamurai

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I bought the 808 keychain camera back in August. Still haven't gotten a disk for it yet. I am wondering for one flight, what is going to be the necessary space for the video? The one I am looking at is 8GB but I figured I should wait until I post here to get some opinions on the matter.

I would say that from the time I get my rockets ready on the pad, I am waiting only 10 minutes or so for launch.
 
Micro SD. Also, from what I've read here, you want a "Class 10" Micro SD Card. That's what I got, but just because that's what everyone recommended. I don't even know what "Class 10" means.
 
Oh, and I got a 16 Gig Card. It will record Video for about 2 Hours. I know this because on my first Launch, I failed to turn off the Camera properly, and it was still recording when I got home, so I had to edit the Video to only include the first 4 Minutes.:facepalm:
 
lol. Well I planned on Micro SD. I just don't know what amount of memory I am gonna need. I don't know what the Class means either but it is on Amazon when you are reading the product descriptions.
 
lol. Well I planned on Micro SD. I just don't know what amount of memory I am gonna need. I don't know what the Class means either but it is on Amazon when you are reading the product descriptions.

Yup, I got mine from Amazon. I think you'de be fine with an 8GB Card to record atleast an Hours worth of Footage. Like I said, my 16 is kinda Overkill.
 
Sounds good. Thanks!

At least you now know how much yours can hold in case a bunch of people are setting up and you don't get to launch for awhile. : )
 
Sounds good. Thanks!

At least you now know how much yours can hold in case a bunch of people are setting up and you don't get to launch for awhile. : )

I don't Launch with a Bunch of People. I live in Vermont, where there is only one Rocket Club, supposedly, and they are far away from where I am.
I Launch alone.

Oh look, that Club does'nt even have a Feild to Launch from: https://www.crmrc.org/
 
I have an 8gb in one of mine which lasts longer than the battery. The other one has a 2gb in it which is more than long enough for a few launches as long as the recovery doesn't take more than a few minutes. 16gb is a bit overkill IMO but as the prices have come down I can see getting one as it could always be used in other devices as well.

I have a car charger in my launch box that has come in handy several times. Of course if you take a laptop to the launch you can review your video and charge the cam.
 
I have an 8gb in one of mine which lasts longer than the battery. The other one has a 2gb in it which is more than long enough for a few launches as long as the recovery doesn't take more than a few minutes. 16gb is a bit overkill IMO but as the prices have come down I can see getting one as it could always be used in other devices as well.

I have a car charger in my launch box that has come in handy several times. Of course if you take a laptop to the launch you can review your video and charge the cam.

I think I am going to go with the 8gb.
 
The class ratings are a measure of the speed at which data can be written to the card. They start at "class 2" and go up to about class 10 (AFAIK). A class 2 card is slowest and a class 10 is fastest to write data to. Why is this important?? Because the faster the camera can write the data to the card, the less "dropped frames" you get, and therefore the smoother the recording. Slow cards can be "outrun" by the camera, and when that happens, basically it just says "ditto" the last frame on the next frame occasionally during recording so the card doesn't get hopelessly left behind by the camera... this can appear as a "stutter" or jerk in motion of the playback. A class 4 better yet a class 6 card should be plenty fast, but a class 10 is the absolute "best insurance" that card write speed won't be the limiting factor-- but of course the camera won't write to ANY card faster than the camera can actually process the data, regardless of the card's capabilities. Hence, some micro-cams are better than others-- some have a high rate of dropped frames regardless, simply due to cheap electronics. The "gumpack" cams are some of the worst, which is why the "keyfob" cams are much more popular.

Of course the gigabyte rating of the card is a measure of the volume of data that can be stored on the card... you can get an idea of filesize by looking up the cam's "megabytes per second" of recording time... of course the bigger the card, the more files you can record to it before you have to download and delete them off the card to make more room...

Of course, the bigger the class and gb rating of the card, the more expensive it is, and the possibility always exists that the camera and rocket get lost, hung on a power line or top of a tree, splash down in the one water hole in the vicinity of the launch site, etc... so of course it's a matter of how much you're willing to risk...

The other issue is, beware of cheap cards from Asia... there was an article on the Chuck Lohr website about the 808 cameras that showed that many of the cheap cards from Fleabay and elsewhere are substandard or faulty, and while they may have their markings altered or their "properties" in windows might TELL you they're a class 8 or 10 or whatever, or even that they're a 4 gb card or whatever, when one actually runs speed tests on them or checks when the card is full they may well find they paid for what is basically a class 2 card with 2 gb of memory... buyer beware! I'd recommend that if you're buying a high-dollar high-speed and large volume card, that you stick with reputable vendors... you get what you pay for and usually if something's too good to be true, it usually is!

Later and good luck! OL JR :)
 
The class ratings are a measure of the speed at which data can be written to the card. They start at "class 2" and go up to about class 10 (AFAIK). A class 2 card is slowest and a class 10 is fastest to write data to. Why is this important?? Because the faster the camera can write the data to the card, the less "dropped frames" you get, and therefore the smoother the recording. Slow cards can be "outrun" by the camera, and when that happens, basically it just says "ditto" the last frame on the next frame occasionally during recording so the card doesn't get hopelessly left behind by the camera... this can appear as a "stutter" or jerk in motion of the playback. A class 4 better yet a class 6 card should be plenty fast, but a class 10 is the absolute "best insurance" that card write speed won't be the limiting factor-- but of course the camera won't write to ANY card faster than the camera can actually process the data, regardless of the card's capabilities. Hence, some micro-cams are better than others-- some have a high rate of dropped frames regardless, simply due to cheap electronics. The "gumpack" cams are some of the worst, which is why the "keyfob" cams are much more popular.

Of course the gigabyte rating of the card is a measure of the volume of data that can be stored on the card... you can get an idea of filesize by looking up the cam's "megabytes per second" of recording time... of course the bigger the card, the more files you can record to it before you have to download and delete them off the card to make more room...

Of course, the bigger the class and gb rating of the card, the more expensive it is, and the possibility always exists that the camera and rocket get lost, hung on a power line or top of a tree, splash down in the one water hole in the vicinity of the launch site, etc... so of course it's a matter of how much you're willing to risk...

The other issue is, beware of cheap cards from Asia... there was an article on the Chuck Lohr website about the 808 cameras that showed that many of the cheap cards from Fleabay and elsewhere are substandard or faulty, and while they may have their markings altered or their "properties" in windows might TELL you they're a class 8 or 10 or whatever, or even that they're a 4 gb card or whatever, when one actually runs speed tests on them or checks when the card is full they may well find they paid for what is basically a class 2 card with 2 gb of memory... buyer beware! I'd recommend that if you're buying a high-dollar high-speed and large volume card, that you stick with reputable vendors... you get what you pay for and usually if something's too good to be true, it usually is!

Later and good luck! OL JR :)

Thank you for the advice. There are a lot of cards from Asia out there when I looked on Ebay.
 
Thank you for the advice. There are a lot of cards from Asia out there when I looked on Ebay.

Yes, all of them LOL:) (Well, mpst anyway).

The operative word was "cheap"... Cards priced "too good to be true" from unreputable sources...

Usually you get what you pay for... if it's too good to be true, it probably is...

Later! OL JR :)
 
Of course, the bigger the class and gb rating of the card, the more expensive it is, and the possibility always exists that the camera and rocket get lost, hung on a power line or top of a tree, splash down in the one water hole in the vicinity of the launch site, etc... so of course it's a matter of how much you're willing to risk...


I take my laptop to launches and download the video file(s) from the cards after each flight. That way, if I do lose the camera (as described above) then I at least have the videos from the prior flight(s). If you transfer the files and clear the card after each flight then you can get away with a smaller capacity (and likely less expensive) card.
 
or you could buy a few 2gb cards for less than $5 each.
 
or you could buy a few 2gb cards for less than $5 each.

Yeah, I actually have enough cards to use a new one with every flight and skip the "file transfer and clear the card step." But I like to review the video - and then make a decision as to whether or not I want to send the camera back up for another flight. Most LCO's are accommodating and will launch your rocket first if you let them know you have a camera "rolling". I stop using that camera after I get 3 or 4 good videos for the day. Beyond that, it becomes redundant - and I risk slowing down the range and becoming "that guy". Most days I get two good flights which show the launch field, flight line, pop-ups, parked cars, grass, trees, all the exciting stuff you find out in a pasture or sod farm.
 
I take my laptop to launches and download the video file(s) from the cards after each flight. That way, if I do lose the camera (as described above) then I at least have the videos from the prior flight(s). If you transfer the files and clear the card after each flight then you can get away with a smaller capacity (and likely less expensive) card.

Always a good idea...

I very nearly had the same thing happen with my old Astrocam back in the day-- 24 exposure roll, had taken the bulk of it up (along with a few "missed frames" from winding idiosyncrasies of the Astrocam) and wanting to get the most value out of the roll... "just fly it one more time" and up she went... POW! shock cord broke, separation... drifted down into a cotton field who knows where... search for a couple hours, no joy... DANG IT! There went a couple months of flights and about $20 bucks in motors, with nothing to show for it, AND a lost camera!

Thankfully we were filming the flights with the old VHS camcorder-- as a last resort we went and watched the tape to see if we could determine where it came down... as it just so happened, I didn't see the camera's impact, but my lil' brother did, and he was in frame and started walking out into the cotton field directly towards it just before I turned the camera off to join him... We watched the tape a few times and got our bearings on a distant landmark (tree on the horizon) and went back down to the field, stood where we had been standing, and spotted the same tree, and started walking out into the field towards it, and sure enough, after wading out about 50 yards or so into the field, we walked right up to within 3 feet of the camera... still intact and safe.

After that, I only used 12 exposure rolls of film and got them developed after I had about 6-8 pics on the film-- just in case it DID get lost or irretrievable in a tree or power line... minimize the price that way, even if the film is a little higher that way, and developing, and all that...

With the digital cams, it's much the same... grab the pics or film off every time, and you minimize the costs of loss, which is always present anytime you fly... and of course cheaper cards means you're not out as much money if the camera falls off or the rocket catos and blows the camera off into tall grass, or if it lands in the top of a tree or power line or whatever...

Later! OL JR :)
 
Derek,

I am gonna end up going with a shorter memory card. I always like to over prepare and I think even 2GB will be just fine.
 
I run a 32 gig, class 10, micro SD card in mine. Let's me record just about all day at the launch site, then come home and transfer it to the P.C.

Seems to be nice a roomy.

David
 
I've been using these in my 808 cameras for a couple of years. No problems, even survived hanging in a tree for a month and getting rained on. 4 GB is more than enough memory. Only $4.99 at Amazon.

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I like the have more cards and change them out after each flight. Using the don't keep all your eggs in one basket philosophy.
 
I ended up with a 16GB for 8 bucks. Figure I can use it for some other things as well that may require more memory.
 
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