Micro Army Little John Missile w/ Launcher PMC (1/40th Scale)

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Micromeister

Micro Craftman/ClusterNut
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While going through my unbuilt Pile of Potential Plastic Model Conversion Kits looking for Give away stuff for the clubs annual Christmas party raffle. I came across a very old OOP Revell kit I wasn't sure I'd ever be able to convert.
This U.S. Army Tactical Rockets Set, I picked up several years ago at auction contains an Army Little John Tactical Nuke Missle with launcher and 4 tiny Dart anti-Tank wire guided missiles.

On opening the kit I was a bit disappointed as the Little John body tube was just a tad to small to allow removing enough wall thickness to pass a T2+ tube. At that point I resealed the box and put it out of sight and mind.
This time I decided darn it I was going to find a way to convert the Little John. Working several evenings with a 1/4" round file only, the body wall thickness was reduced to less then 1/32". Even at this we still did not have enough space for a nomal T2+ (.281" OD) tube. I decided to hand roll a 2 wrap .010" paper body sleeve around a couple spent motor casings (to ensure the motor would fit). this worked out great. Using the stock kit nose cone a 1/2" piece of T2 (.246") tube and 50lb kevlar/stainless steel thread loop were epoxy joined. Cutting a 3/16" section of spent motor casing as a motor block/shockline anchor I added 30" of 50lb Kevlar/3strand St. Stl. shockline and a 1/4" x 9" yellow Military grade Teflon wadding/streamer. The completed Model less paint,decals and launch shoes only tipped the scale at 2.2grams.
My Plan was to add a .049" x 9" stainless launch rail to the kit provided scale Launcher but the Launch shoes prevent clean passage of the fins. SO will use the kit launch shoes on the slide short Launch rail which is only 5-1/4" long. With the model being as light as it is I'm confident she'll have plenty of speed leaving the rail for a safe and stable flight.
Will update after paint and decaling.

MM 397-uc01_40th Little John Missile PMC & boxart_12-07-13.JPG

MM 397-uc02_40th Little John Missile PMC Close_12-07-13.jpg

MM 397-uc03_MM Little John- 40th PMC & Launcher(NoPaint)_12-13-13.JPG

MM 397-uc04_MM Little John 40thPMC & DART rockets (NoDecals)_12-13-13.jpg

11 model MMX Powered PMC Fleet_12-07-13.JPG
 
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12-15-13 Update:
Before MC (Methylene Chloride) solvent welding the Kit rail launch shoes to the missile side I had to rethink this option. If added to this very small model they surely would effect the flight path of the model.
We'll MC the shoes to the launch rail instead, make an addition to the rear of the Launch rail by melting Spru into a 1/4" thick rectangle that will be solvent welded to the aft end of the launch rail then drilled and tapped 0-80" for my usual .049" x 9" 304 Stainless Micro Launch rod after threading the rod about 1/2" with a 0-80" die.
Once the Kit shoes are in place and completely set they will have to be altered somewhat by filing there outer edges to easily pass the fins and round file the center to miss some custom cut micro Launch lugs. My Plan is to use 1/16" OD tube drilled out with a .050" bit to pass our .049" rod. Hopefully these can then be cut down to about 1/32" long before MC & tiny bit of epoxy fillet applied in place on the model just aft of the model loaded CG and between two fins.
All this may take a day or two so stay tuned, I'll add a couple pics of the process as they become available.

Edit: Pics of Threaded Launch rod and the Tapped styrene block added.

MM 397uc05_.049in rod threaded 0-80 & Nut_12-16-13.JPG

MM 397uc06_.063 x .032in Styrene Lugs(MC Only)_12-16-13.JPG
 
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After MC (Methylene Chloride) solvent welding the newly formed "Spru Tree" styrene block to the rear of the Launch rail the block was marked & drilled for 0-80" thread tapping. While the styrene would be strong enough to hold the screw in Rail by itself I decided to add a recessed 0-80" stainless steel Hex nut back up. Block is shown in the first photo rough shaped with a file. before Painting this will be trimmed a bit more and hopefully blend into the Overall Launch rail look.

filing and sanding the forward support kit supplied launch shoe is still a bit tight if the rail wiggles the front lug may hit so some additional clearance filing will be needed. I could just leave it as is and not trim the extra inch of launch rod I have but I'd Really like to get the model to sit all with way back on the rail.

another launcher base modification was to replace the elevation piston arm with a longer 1/16" piston allowing the rail to extend to about 85° or so. This modification does not allow the kit launch rail to return to the horizontal transport level but for my purposes that wasn't necessary anyway.

The Last photo shows the model sitting on the rail/rod ALMOST where I want it. just a bit more tweaking should have the clearance needed.

Have yet to determine the size of the semi-diorama earth base to add to the Little John but it will be set-up to screw directly onto my everyday Tripod launcher.....just don't like getting on my knees anymore:) I don't expect this piece to be much more the 4" x 6" or so with a Hydro-cal/epoxy terrain as the jet deflector.

MM 397uc07_Added Styrene block tapped 0-80_12-16-13.jpg

MM 397uc08_Modified kit Launch shoes_12-16-13.JPG

MM 397uc09_Modified Rail Stop with rod & nut temp location_12-16-13.JPG

MM 397uc10_Nut recessed in Rail Stop_12-17-13.jpg

MM 397uc11_Bare model on Rail on .049 x 10in rod (66% Elevation)_12-17-13.JPG
 
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A couple pictures I missed somehow of the 0-80" threading process I thought might be of interest. For those who might want to look for tiny threading taps, Dies & Handles most (down to 0-80" anyway) are from McMaster-Carr. Smaller 00-90 and 000-120 from Small Parts Now part of amazon. or Micro-Mark.
As you might expect these small to tiny taps & dies do get expensive as you get smaller but once you have them they last a very long time with a little care and patience in use.

What some may not know, it is possible to tread our Stock .013" thick Cardboard tubing for some of the finer threaded machine screws from 2-56" and below. One can reinforce these areas If needed by CA soaking the area creating a mock- phenolic that holds threading quite well. This method is used often with Scale model Bolt & Screw heads on Micro to mid-Power models, adding access doors and other places where a real fastener is desired.

MM 397uc05a_Threading .049in St. Stl Rod_12-16-13.JPG

MM 397uc05b_finished 0-80in Threading_12-16-13.JPG
 
very cool lil models, I want to see that tiny rocket fly, good job!
 
Thanks for the Kudo's guys.

When I got around to attempting to decal this model I realized this model WAS purchased as a Collector Plastic Kit in 1998 (not intended to EVER be built!) LOL!
On further inspection (and referring to my Kit Lists) I discovered this model was produced sometime around 1958-60. DOH! No wonder the decal sheet had turned a dingy yellow.

I carefully cut one of the not so important decals and attempted to wet and use it as usual. As expected the Old Decal Clear shattered into many small pieces.
To remedy this I quickly added a medium wet coat of Krylon #1305 UV Gloss clear. Let them dry overnight, then hand cut and applied the remaining decal. One of the Rocket side "US Army" decals still split but was able to pretty much slide the pieces into far alignment. After drying a coat of micro-scale decal film was applied to ensure they stay down.
Model and Launcher are now complete, working on the Launcher base "semi-diorama" block. Hope to have it and some photos in the next day or two.
 
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Thanks for the Kudo's guys.

When I got around to attempting to decal this model I realized this model WAS purchased as a Collector Plastic Kit in 1998 (not intended to EVER be built!) LOL!
On further inspection (and referring to my Kit Lists) I discovered this model was produced sometime around 1958-60. DOH! No wonder the decal sheet had turned a dingy yellow.

I carefully cut one of the not so important decals and attempted to wet and use it as usual. As expected the Old Decal Clear shattered into many small pieces.
To remedy this I quickly added a medium wet coat of Krylon #1305 UV Gloss clear. Let them dry overnight, then hand cut and applied the remaining decal. One of the Rocket side "US Army" decals still split but was able to pretty much slide the pieces into far alignment. After drying a coat of micro-scale decal film was applied to ensure they stay down.
Model and Launcher are now complete, working on the Launcher base "semi-diorama" block. Hope to have it and some photos in the next day or two.

Cool! Nice Job on the Threading.
Can't wait to see some new Pics!
 
Thanks again guys:
Here are the two latest Photos with the models stats.
Just getting around to attaching the finished model to the Phenolic Launcher Base Board that has been tapped 1/4-20 to thread onto my Camera Tri-pod launcher. Once I've outlined the base on the board I'll add a matte medium, a small amount of hydrocal to uneven the surface, some earth tones & grass along with a few bushes just for fun.
Will add one more photo with that process is complete. And Hopefully a Launch Pic or two at the next Narhams Sport Launch the Better 2/3rds & I attend. This however could be a month or two with way the winter weather has been going around here.

Ps: Launcher Base attachment complete and the model is ready to go. All I need now is the weather to warm Up Like maybe March LOL!

Edit 01-16-14: Still have one more Photo to get of the model attached to my Digital camera Tripod Launcher base. Will Try to get that one sometime over this weekend. With Family in-town that might be harder to do but I'll attempt to sneak off to the Building Dungeon when the Grandkids give me a break:)

Edit 01-17-14: Final 3-pic combo showing 1:40th scale Little John Tactical Nuke with working launcher mounted on Diorama textured baseboard attached to standard Digital Tripod. Now we wait for the weather.

MM 397uc13e_Little John & Launcher Complete_01-13-14.jpg

MM 397uc12b_Little Joh PMC on Pad w BaseBd & Rod_01-12-14.JPG

MM 397uc12a_Little John PMC on Pad Paint & Decaled(40th)_01-07-14.JPG

MM 397uc14d_Little John 40thPMC on launcher&Tripod-3pic_01-17-14.jpg
 
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Cool set up!

Thanks:
I just love the digital camera tripods for getting launch platforms Up off the ground, These Old knees just will not tolerate that old torture anymore;) Adding a 1/4-20 Stainless rod coupling drilled and tapped with an 8-32" x 3/4" nylon thumb screw and a 4" x 4" or 6" x 6" 16ga Stainless steel jet deflector turn just about any Camera tripod into a very stable launch platform for models from MMX to about 1lb. D12 powered stuff.

Launch Rod Tripod Holder-Adaptor-zz01b_6pic pic Pg (jpg) _08-16-12.jpg

TripodLaunchRodAdaptor-b3_.1875inStStlRod&Deflector_5-19-01.jpg

TripodLaunchRodAdaptors-d_7 of 12 w Blk Nylon 8-32 x .375in ThumbScrews_05-30-13.JPG
 
I remember those days, back in Miami Lakes, oh, say 10 years ago when I did inventory control for Small Parts, before they became part of Amazon. Carried around 35,000 part numbers and stocked almost ALL of them! Thank goodness they were really small parts...
 
I remember those days, back in Miami Lakes, oh, say 10 years ago when I did inventory control for Small Parts, before they became part of Amazon. Carried around 35,000 part numbers and stocked almost ALL of them! Thank goodness they were really small parts...

Ho Man Mike!
Small Parts was one of my Go-to Suppliers for tons of stuff. Truly wish they had NOT been bought or became part of Amazon as it's almost impossible to find many of the things I used to buy regularly for Small Parts direct.
Amazon has not done a very good job as far as I am concerned. I've taken to finding alternate sources for almost all the stuff I used to buy from Small parts. Truly a shame.
 
Over the weekend I used some scrap clear acrylic sheeting to fabricate a Protective cover "box" for the Little John & Launcher.
Have not yet finish sanded and Flame polished the rounded corners yet as that's generally a fairly time consuming process I do while watching TV or a movie.
Eventually the edges will again be visually Clear. Now I can throw (well...Place) this boxed model in my range box or "Ready Model" box without fear of damage to it or other models.

MM 397uc15a_Little John & Launcher in Protective Case_02-09-14.JPG

MM 397uc15b_End View Little John &Launcher in Case_02-09-14.jpg
 
Finished hand sanding and resurfacing the Clear acrylic protective cover last night while watching TV. What a boring & tedious job but it gives the completed Model & Launcher attachment a good bit of protection since this "Unit" will be permanently stored in with about 100 other Micro models in a plastic Tote bin. Photos to be added soon.

I still think it's a pretty Cool thing to be able to have at the Launch site 197 of my 199 Current Flying Micro models...in 3 bins now but still nearly the entire fleet ready at a whim or moments notice:)

Some might want to know why 2 models aren't in the total. One is my ELE-1 "Extreme Length Experiments" 103" long micro Super-Roc that stores in it's own 36" storage tube (won't fit in any of my range or storage boxes). The other is my Der-Red-Max Launcher Diorama with Summer & Winter Camouflaged models that stores in it's own carrier box. These two only come out on special occasions and demos.
 
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Over the weekend I used some scrap clear acrylic sheeting to fabricate a Protective cover "box" for the Little John & Launcher.
Have not yet finish sanded and Flame polished the rounded corners yet as that's generally a fairly time consuming process I do while watching TV or a movie.
Eventually the edges will again be visually Clear. Now I can throw (well...Place) this boxed model in my range box or "Ready Model" box without fear of damage to it or other models.

What exactly do you mean by flame polishing and how do you go about it?
 
What exactly do you mean by flame polishing and how do you go about it?

Brian:
Flame Polishing is a technique used to remove and refinish scratches in Acrylic and Modified Acrylic Plasitc sheeting. Actually it is the Last step in the scratch removal process.
To begin Scratches and damaged area are sanded with progressingly finer Grit papers, cloths and liquid rouge from about 220grit to 32000 grit. Generally Wet papers, Dry cloths and then liquid finishing rouges similar to 3m Finessit-II used on auto paints.
After the sanding process any remaining gouges or scratches are treated using a Hydrogen Torch flame to "level out" such imperfections. This doesn't resurface the entire piece only the problem area. Flame Polishing returns the material to "Visually Clear". Propane can be used but takes longer to flash off the scratch which can allow possible pitting and burning which ruins the work piece. The process is a controlled re-melting of the affected surface layer of the Acrylic or Modified Acrylic plastic. This process does NOT work on Polycarbonate (Lexan) or most other "plastics.
For Most Hobbyist I'd suggest limiting Acrylic scratch removal to just sanding, Standard 3m wet/dry paper 220 to 2000 grits will just about get you as close as would be needed for most applications. If you really want to get close to "Flame Polishing" There are a couple "Micro-sand" kits that contain Sanding cloths from 4000 to 32000girt Cloths, sanding block, and polishing cream for about $45.00 We get ours from our 3m Rep but I seem to recall seeing a similar kit at www.micromark.com.
Hope this helps.
 
Finished the resurfacing and scratch removal on the Clear Acrylic Plastic Protective Cover for this PMC Model and Launcher.
You should be able to see the vast difference in the clarity of the rounded edges and corners and all of the flat surface scatches have been removed. The Process starting with 220grit sand paper progressed to 32000grit sanding cloth, then 2 grits of liquid polishing rouge. I didn't feel it necessary to Flame polish these edges to get the visual clarity I wanted.

It'll probably be a couple months before I can add a few Flight photos.

MM 397uc16a_Little John & Launcher Cover Side Complete_02-12-14.jpg

MM 397uc16b_Little John & Launcher in Cover End Complete_02-12-14.jpg
 
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