X-Ray Upscale Build

qquake2k · Oct 19, 2013

I actually started this project over a year ago. Bill2654 graciously gave me some balsa blocks, and I found some 3" OD clear tubing at McMaster-Carr, so I decided to build an upscale X-Ray. The original X-Ray is OOP, but I had one as a kid, so this will be a lot of fun for me. When I first started this project, my goal was to turn my first nose cone to fit the clear tubing. The clear tube is 2-7/8" ID, so a stock nose cone wouldn't fit it. Well, that failed miserably, and it kind of lost steam.

I have since successfully turned three nose cones, two 3" and one 5-1/2". I decided to try to salvage the original balsa cone, but it was a no-go. But then Rocketgeek101 suggested that I turn the failed balsa cone into a smaller cone for a different project. Well, I liked that idea! I bought some 3-1/2" square, 16" long basswood that I'll be using for the X-Ray's nose cone.

View attachment x-ray_xl_bt-70h_29mm.ork

qquake2k · Oct 19, 2013

When I originally glued up the balsa for the nose cone, I also glued some up for the transition. The problem I had with the balsa nose cone was that I turned it too small. So for the transition, I got a smaller 2" faceplate for the lathe, so I could use a piece of the clear tube to use as a guide to turn it to the correct diameter. My 3" faceplate has a center hole, so it's easy to center it when you attach it to the wood. But this 2" faceplate is open in the center. To center it, I drew diagonal lines across the end of the block, and lined up the screw holes with the lines. I took a piece of 3/16" brass rod and sharpened one end of it, to use as a center punch to mark the hole locations.

qquake2k · Oct 19, 2013

I drilled the pilot hole for the first #8 x 2-1/2" wood screw, then screwed it in to hold the faceplate in place when I marked the rest of the holes. I removed the faceplate again, to drill the rest of the pilot holes.

qquake2k · Oct 19, 2013

There are eight mounting holes in the faceplate. I was going to use four screws in it, but the package came with six. So I went ahead and used all six screws. I wanted a little extra holding power, because balsa is soft, and the free end wouldn't be supported during turning. As I did with my successful nose cones, I trimmed the corners off the block so there would be less to remove during roughing.

qquake2k · Oct 19, 2013

And the initial roughing the block round. Sure makes a mess!

qquake2k · Oct 19, 2013

More roughing. That new faceplate is working pretty well! I was afraid it wouldn't provide enough support, but so far so good. Still have a lot of material to remove.

qquake2k · Oct 19, 2013

This one's for Kit!

qquake2k · Oct 19, 2013

Some videos of the process. It was very wobbly at first, but I was able to rough it out no problem.

[YOUTUBE]XuuHRuxX8ew[/YOUTUBE]

[YOUTUBE]cwD4D4Bud6Y[/YOUTUBE]

[YOUTUBE]L547KOiWTQQ[/YOUTUBE]

qquake2k · Oct 19, 2013

The piece of clear tube is to gauge the large OD of the transition.

qquake2k · Oct 19, 2013

I parted off the free end of the piece. Should have used a hacksaw, the parting tool tore up the end grain a bit. No worries, it should be fine. The lines are for the two shoulders.

eedetail · Oct 19, 2013

You might find it useful to use a center on the tailstock when roughing out the shape,
it will put less stress on the screws in the faceplate. Remove the tailstock center when
you are close to final shape.
TimE

Rocket86 · Oct 19, 2013

Nice rocket to upscale. I'm eager to see the results.

qquake2k · Oct 19, 2013

More work on the shoulders. I went ahead and cut the body tube to length, so I could use the short piece to size the aft shoulder.

qquake2k · Oct 19, 2013

Got both shoulders sized. Now to start shaping the transition.

qquake2k · Oct 19, 2013

Like I said, I've turned three successful nose cones so far, but I've never turned a transition. I had no idea how to proceed from this point. The best I could come up with was to turn the tool rest to the approximate angle of the transition, and use that as a guide to cut it.

qquake2k · Oct 19, 2013

Seemed to work pretty good. It looks like a transition!

qquake2k · Oct 19, 2013

I must say, I'm happy with it! I did a dry fit with the clear tube and body tube, and it looked pretty good.

qquake2k · Oct 19, 2013

It looks good, but I noticed the edge of the aft shoulder wasn't quite square.

qquake2k · Oct 19, 2013

I touched it up with the point of a skew chisel and sandpaper, and it looks a lot better. Initially, I was planning on drilling a large hole and embedding an eyebolt in resin. But I decided to drill all the way through it and use a long eyebolt instead.

T-Rex · Oct 19, 2013

Where are your safety glasses, sir? Norm would be so angry, and I don't think you would like him when he is angry....
Seriously, they are important, and you can get them with 'cheaters' now... I scratched my eyes with sawdust years ago, it was not a fun time.

qquake2k · Oct 19, 2013

If I can't find a long enough eyebolt, I can always use threaded rod and an eyenut.

rocketgeek101 · Oct 19, 2013

Very very nice work Jim! That's a top notch transition you've turned! I tell you this rocket is going to look sweet roaring off the pad. Since the payload bay is clear, it would be an excellent opportunity to get some HD inflight videos.... Maybe a strobe light or two for some night flying... Just food for thought.:wink:

bradycros · Oct 19, 2013

Now that you have gained a sence of confidence in your ability to turn nose cones, transistions and boat tails, should we expect an increase in your scratch building? Just think, all those childhood favorites are now possible!!!

qquake2k · Oct 19, 2013

I wanted the nose cone to be 10", plus a 1" shoulder. So I cut the basswood to 12", to allow for the tip. I cut the block to 3-1/4" x 3-1/4", so I wouldn't have as much material to remove. Attaching the face plate was the same as for the transition.

qquake2k · Oct 19, 2013

I trimmed the corners like before. Since this block is so much longer, I supported the free end with the live center in the tail stock.

qquake2k · Oct 19, 2013

I roughed it round, then cut the shoulder. The shoulder ended up a tiny bit too small, but it shouldn't matter as it will be painted.

qquake2k · Oct 19, 2013

I finished roughing the forward end, then started on the shaping. I kind of had to experiment with different chisels, to find what worked. Fortunately, I have lots of chisels!

qquake2k · Oct 19, 2013

Shaping and more shaping. It's fun watching a nose cone emerge from a big chunk of wood.

qquake2k · Oct 19, 2013

Getting closer!

qquake2k · Oct 19, 2013

I'm almost afraid to part off the tip. I've had spindles go all whoppy jawed when I removed the live center before. Yes, that's a technical woodturners term. :tongue:

X-Ray Upscale Build

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

Captain Low-N-Slow

Captain Low-N-Slow

Captain Low-N-Slow

Captain Low-N-Slow

Captain Low-N-Slow

Captain Low-N-Slow

Captain Low-N-Slow

Captain Low-N-Slow

Captain Low-N-Slow

Captain Low-N-Slow

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Captain Low-N-Slow

Captain Low-N-Slow

Captain Low-N-Slow

Captain Low-N-Slow

Captain Low-N-Slow

Captain Low-N-Slow

Captain Low-N-Slow

Ordinary Average Guy

Captain Low-N-Slow

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Captain Low-N-Slow

Captain Low-N-Slow

Captain Low-N-Slow

Captain Low-N-Slow

Captain Low-N-Slow

Captain Low-N-Slow

Captain Low-N-Slow

Similar threads

Join the conversation!

Join today and get all the highlights of this community direct to your inbox. It's FREE!