Sheri's Mercury Redstone

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IMG_0001.jpg Here's the start of the other side. I really have a hard time keeping these consistent. You have to be applying the same amount of pressure and know exactly when to release. On my RC planes, I've used devices that basically are like a lawn edger with the spines. Just roll it over the panel lines and you get perfectly spaced and sized 'rivets. Other techniques were buying rolls of self adhesive strips of paper with holes already cut out in them. You just lay the strip down along the panel lines, apply glue in them, then remove the strips leaving behind perfect 'rivets'. I've also used the tip of a soldering iron modified to accept a hollow brass tube to lightly burn a circle in the wood creating a flush 'rivet'.
 
View attachment 255282 Here's the start of the other side. I really have a hard time keeping these consistent. You have to be applying the same amount of pressure and know exactly when to release. On my RC planes, I've used devices that basically are like a lawn edger with the spines. Just roll it over the panel lines and you get perfectly spaced and sized 'rivets. Other techniques were buying rolls of self adhesive strips of paper with holes already cut out in them. You just lay the strip down along the panel lines, apply glue in them, then remove the strips leaving behind perfect 'rivets'. I've also used the tip of a soldering iron modified to accept a hollow brass tube to lightly burn a circle in the wood creating a flush 'rivet'.

How ironic. I've been describing all these techniques I've used over the years and haven't applied any of them here. What is wrong with this picture I ask? :bang:
 
I've decided to hold off on any further riveting as I'm not happy with the present results. What I have done is order a rivet making system called "Rosie Riveter" from Flite Metal. This consists of using removable, perforated tape with certain gauge holes to fill in with glue. We'll see what happens when I receive my order. This might require me to either remove the present glue rivets, or keep what I have and move on to doing the remainder of the rocket with the system instead.
 
IMG_0001.jpg This is the beginning of the removal process. On the unpainted side, these are coming off like a dream with no residue or damage of any kind left behind. Just the slightest bit of pressure from my knife is all that's needed.
 
I'm surprised more people haven't discovered Archer:

https://www.archertransfers.com/SurfaceDetailsMain.html

I use their surface details in pretty much all my scale rockets. It may seem expensive, but they pack a lot of rivets on a single sheet, and it sure beats the heck out of placing individual rivets. Here are a couple shots of my Sheri's Redstone:

head.jpgtail.jpg

All of the rivets and weld lines are from Archer. The panels, antennae, etc. are all scratch built from styrene.
 
I'm surprised more people haven't discovered Archer:

https://www.archertransfers.com/SurfaceDetailsMain.html

I use their surface details in pretty much all my scale rockets. It may seem expensive, but they pack a lot of rivets on a single sheet, and it sure beats the heck out of placing individual rivets. Here are a couple shots of my Sheri's Redstone:

View attachment 255327View attachment 255328

All of the rivets and weld lines are from Archer. The panels, antennae, etc. are all scratch built from styrene.

Now that's what I'm talking about! Great job!!
 
I'm surprised more people haven't discovered Archer:

https://www.archertransfers.com/SurfaceDetailsMain.html

I use their surface details in pretty much all my scale rockets. It may seem expensive, but they pack a lot of rivets on a single sheet, and it sure beats the heck out of placing individual rivets. Here are a couple shots of my Sheri's Redstone:

View attachment 255327View attachment 255328

All of the rivets and weld lines are from Archer. The panels, antennae, etc. are all scratch built from styrene.

Curious to know, what scale are these?
 
I was afraid you were going to ask that. This was back in 2009, and I used the biggest rivets they sold at the time. Now they have added G-Scale details which might be closer to the right size. I spent quite a bit of time with calipers, blueprints, photos, the sample pictures from the Archer web site, etc. before finding the best fit.
 
I was afraid you were going to ask that. This was back in 2009, and I used the biggest rivets they sold at the time. Now they have added G-Scale details which might be closer to the right size. I spent quite a bit of time with calipers, blueprints, photos, the sample pictures from the Archer web site, etc. before finding the best fit.

I just like to make peoples lives more miserable. :neener::wink:
 
I was afraid you were going to ask that. This was back in 2009, and I used the biggest rivets they sold at the time. Now they have added G-Scale details which might be closer to the right size. I spent quite a bit of time with calipers, blueprints, photos, the sample pictures from the Archer web site, etc. before finding the best fit.

BTW, because of you, I've ordered some of their products which is in G scale and we'll see what happens. I also ordered from another source a similar system and will use this as a comparison with the other. Thank you for letting us in on a valuable source!!:handshake:
 
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I've decided to scrap the tower assembly with an emphasis on building a more scale like tower. It just didn't quite sit well with me and I want to improve on the initial design and see what I come up with. I'll still be using carbon fiber for the scaffolding structure, though I want to replicate the angle of attachment and include additional support 'bars' that the original kit does not allow for. I might go as far as including cables and rivets on the tower as well. We'll see. :wink:
 
While I build the new tower, I'll be using David Weeks' drawings which I've already got to help me out immensely. Other than that, I'm waiting on more carbon fiber stock and two different rivet systems to arrive. Can't wait!!:drool:
 
IMG_0001.jpg I might as well move on to the capsule while waiting for more detail stuff to arrive. I've used my Moto Tool to clear out the general shape and angle of the main window. After getting the shape (which I pretty well have), I'll start using styrene sheeting to line the entire inside. Then use two layers of clear acetate for the double window effect. One laying flat on the sloping part and the final one just flush with the outside shape of the capsule. I like what I see so far! :)
 
IMG_0001.jpg Her's a bit more progress. I ran out of the white styrene so now I'm using clear acetate. It looks rough now but it'll be worked out as I progress.
 
IMG_0002.jpg Another angle. Once I get all the plastic pieces in place, I'll begin filling and sanding.
 
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IMG_0001.jpg Now the ribbing has been added. I think at this point, I'll shoot some primer over this, (first I'll try this on a test piece) and see what kind of work I'll need to do.
 
IMG_0001.jpg One of two rivet systems came to me today. These are 3D resin rivets that are applied like water transfer decals. Along with setting solution, these snug down with no trace of any clear backing or silvering. Quite malleable too.
 
IMG_0004.jpg Out of the package. Though you can not tell from the photos, these are in fact raised rivets. Just ran my finger over them.
 
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