New upscale, Freefall XL

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qquake2k

Captain Low-N-Slow
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Okay, I give up. I can't stop building rockets. I must be psychotic. The latest I'm designing is an upscale of the Estes Freefall. I already have a generic GI Joe paratrooper, so this will be the perfect launch vehicle for him.

Freefall XL will be a 4" upscale. It won't be exact, because the body tube should be 37" long, and the LOC tubing is only 34" long. But it'll be close enough. The motor mount will be 38mm. I'm a little worried about the fins, though, because of the design. I'm afraid they'll break easily because they're narrow where they attach. I'm considering using 3/8" plywood. Overkill? Maybe. But I've never been accused of under kill!


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I like it. I just upscaled it to 6 inches. You inspired me to build it dual deploy. Imagine a paratrooper from 5000 feet.
 
I like it. I just upscaled it to 6 inches. You inspired me to build it dual deploy. Imagine a paratrooper from 5000 feet.

A 6 inch version will be very cool! You should have enough room for 3 or 4 Joe's!

If you're using my Open Rocket file for the 6" version, keep in mind the fins may not be exact. I used the largest photo of the Freefall I could find online, cut off one of the fins in Photoshop, and imported it into OR. When I upscale a current kit, I always order one of the kits. It seems more fair that way, since it's not my design. I'll scan the decal and trace the fin once I get the kit.
 
Qquake could you maybe "beef up" in that area of the fins? An extra layer of paper? Possibly a thin layer of basswood glued/laminated and sanded to a taper? Just some ideas but you are the rocket machine who seems to cover all your bases. Looking forward to this rocket.
 
Qquake could you maybe "beef up" in that area of the fins? An extra layer of paper? Possibly a thin layer of basswood glued/laminated and sanded to a taper? Just some ideas but you are the rocket machine who seems to cover all your bases. Looking forward to this rocket.

Well, I thought about fiberglassing the fins. But I've never done it before, and don't have the right epoxy for it. I also thought about 1/8" G10 for the fins, but working with it is problematic. The only time I've cut G10 fins, it was .092" and it ruined my bandsaw blade. I'll probably be lazy and just use 3/8" plywood. I do like thick fins.
 
Go with 1/4 balsa or plywood fiberglassed. I have a piece of each and the balsa with a layer of 6 oz and 3 oz is incredibly strong.
 
I got this "Bail Out" kit a long time ago, back when we both were younger men.

It shares the same theam as your new build.

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Go with 1/4 balsa or plywood fiberglassed. I have a piece of each and the balsa with a layer of 6 oz and 3 oz is incredibly strong.

Unfortunately, I'd have to buy the epoxy and cloth for it. I don't know that it's worth it to me.
 
I got this "Bail Out" kit a long time ago, back when we both were younger men.

It shares the same theam as your new build.

Hey, I remember the Bailout! Is it a BT-60? Looks like the same fins.
 
I got the order from Hobbylinc. Thank goodness the 4" tube wasn't damaged this time. The Estes V2 kit is for my nephew.

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This is the Estes Freefall kit. No painting required! LOL

I traced the fin and scanned it...


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But no matter what I did, I couldn't get Open Rocket to import it. So finally, I took a photo of it against a piece of white card stock. As you can see, the actual fin (on the left) is quite a different shape than the one I originally came up with.

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I finally got Open Rocket to import the fin. But there's something about the shape of the actual fin that OR doesn't like. With it, I have to add 30oz of nose weight to make it stable. And of course, that was a slippery slope. The more nose weight I added, the bigger the motor needed to be, which reduced the stability, so I had to add even more nose weight... Talk about a catch-22!

I really don't want to add nose weight, so I'll probably use the fin shape I came up with. I think it's close enough.


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I have been wanting to do this for years.
I have dozens of GI joes with parachutes, I can't wait to see how yours works out.
 
Using my tried and true method, I got the centering rings cut out with a 4-1/4" hole saw, then sizing them on the lathe. The center holes were cut out with a 1-9/16" hole saw, and sized with a sanding drum in the Dremel.

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I'll be watching closely. Out of curiosity; how many rockets are in your fleet now? You should take a picture of all of them together and post it here for us to drool over...
 
I'll be watching closely. Out of curiosity; how many rockets are in your fleet now? You should take a picture of all of them together and post it here for us to drool over...

Oh heck, 50 or 60? Maybe more? It would take me an hour just to set them all up for a group shot! Right now, I have rockets in my bedroom, garage, living room, computer room, they're all over the place. I have four brand new ones that haven't flown yet.
 
As discussed here, the weird stability issue is apparently due to a glitch or bug in Open Rocket. My gut tells me the design is stable, so I'm going for it. I've got two fin designs, the initial one and the more accurate one from the tracing. I've decided to use the initial fin design, even though it's not an exact upscale. The reason being, it's a little "meatier", and I think will be stronger. With the rockets the same colors, and the same decals, I think it'll be plenty close enough.

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Got the blocks epoxied onto the centering rings for the tee nuts and rail buttons. Also got the rail button blocks sanded flush.

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I printed the fin template on card stock and got it cut out. I printed the fin wrap on regular paper, but had to cut two and tape them together since it was longer than 11". As I've done in the past, I cut out "fin blanks" with the bandsaw. I love a bandsaw with a good fence!

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I wanted to pin the blanks together to cut out and sand the fins together. Normally, I drill holes in the fin tabs for 1/4" wooden dowel pins. But in this case, I was afraid holes in the tabs might weaken them. So I drilled the holes on the perimeter.

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When cutting out fins with the bandsaw, I like to use the fence wherever possible. I sanded what I could before making the final cut and removing the pins. You know, that little 1" belt sander from Harbor Freight has ended up being much more useful than I ever thought it would.

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