Boosting the SEMROC Nike-Tomahawk from 18mm Powered to 24mm and Build.

The Rocketry Forum

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

SteveA

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2010
Messages
1,464
Reaction score
3
Location
Kansas
Apparently I am on a sounding rocket kick now. A week ago I designed an 18mm Viking 7 in Rocksim and built it and now I laid my meat-hooks into a SEMROC Nike-Tomahawk. I downloaded their Rocksim file and wanted to see if and how well, a conversion from 18mm to 24mm would work since the body tube was more than large enough to accommodate a motor this diameter. After I made the requisite modifications to the design file and ran the sims I was pleasantly surprised with the results.
Rocksim Screen Shot.jpg

The kit, overall, is a pretty straight-forward build, but for me the most intriguing aspect are the stick and paper fins on the Nike booster! Yes, I like this sort of minutia.

The kit as produced by SEMROC:
Nike Tomahawk Parts.jpg

I am really looking forward to this project and looking even more forward in launching it to see if it reaches the altitudes predicted by Rocksim.

Stay tuned.

Steve
 
I'll be watching with interest. I've been bouncing around in my mind a few ways to stage this one. I really like the idea of giving it more kick off the pad as well!

Cheers,
Michael
 
Beautiful rocket and a great looking kit.

Very nice choice ,I look forward to this build also.

Cheers


Paul T
 
As I mentioned, I was boosting this Nike-Tomahawk from an 18mm to a 24mm. I cut a new 24mm mount from stock tube at 4 inches to accept up to an E motor. In addition, I notched one centering ring to thread Kevlar string through for the shock cord. Because of the length of the Tomahawk portion of the vehicle, I added a much longer shock cord to the assembly in order to provide enough clearance between the upper half and lower and avoid both halves from whacking each other on the way back down during recovery.
NT1.jpg

The engine block in place for an E-motor. Stand-offs can be used for D motors.
NT2.jpg

The completed motor mount sans the new shock cord. Now I just wait for it to dry.
NT3.jpg

In the mean time, I began filling tube seams using the standard method of Elmer's Carpenters Wood Filler and then I began working on the fins for the Tomahawk portion of the vehicle. If I sound as though I am gushing over the quality of this balsa sheet I apologize. However, this was some exceptional balsa in my example. Very tight, dense grain, sanded easily, best of all, no crumbling. I was able to sand some very nice and very clean airfoils onto each fins. If this quality is repeated in all of these kits, kudos to SEMROC, whomever the supplier of the wood is, keep them.
NT4.jpg

One of the sanded fins and nice-clean foil.
NT5.jpg

After sanding the foils I began sealing them with four coats of sealer as well as the transition for Nike booster and the nose cone for the Tomahawk. While they dried, I sanded my filled tube seams.
NT6.jpg
NT7.jpg
NT11.jpg
Once the above steps were completed, I moved onto the portion of the build that intrigued me the most, the assembly of the Nike booster fin frames. Again, these parts were part of the same balsa sheet as the Tomahawk's fins and were quality parts. Each laser cut piece was very clean and very delicate. Each assembly was made up of six parts that connect via joints and tenons. This process really appealed to the scale modeler side of me. I connected each piece with small amounts of glue using a tooth pick and frequently checked my alignment with a square. To remove the connection nubs from each piece I used a Squadron medium grit sanding stick and gently sanded them away.

The smallest parts in the assembly
NT8.jpg

The completed assembly
NT9.jpg

One down, three more to go. I'll allow this to dry overnight and will move onto the next one. Once all four are completed, I'll be ready to cover them with the card stock skin.

Stay tuned.
 
Last edited:
Reviving this 2 year old hanging thread

How did this build turn out? Any launches? I'm thinking of doing the same 24mm conversion to mine. Has anyone ever attempted a 2-stage conversion? I presume the booster length would require electronics.
 
More necromancy at work ...

Were there ever any updates on this build? And, to repeat the question, has anyone ever tried to stage it?

Obviously, making the booster become unstable at the right time would be important.
 
Back
Top