Q-Modeling Retro Mega Series Bull Pup AGM-12D Build Thread

A couple years back my Mom got me this kit from Q-Modeling. Heck it could have been longer and I've been putting off building because of other scratch builds and projects. Well now is the time to build it. It means a lot to me because it was a gift from my Mom and I want to be able to take her out launching with me and have her push the button when the time comes. She's never been before and I want to share this experience with her. Below are a few pictures of the kit all packaged up.



Hopefully I'll make some time every night after work when I get home to work on this build and document it. I figure if I can get in 2 hrs a night I will be happy with my progress.

I'm also happy that Q-Modeling will be back in business soon. If you guys haven't visited their site yet.

https://www.qmodeling.com/

I feel better about building this now so if I some how "goober" something I can at least get some parts. This build I'm going to do an all out jam up job on it. I really want everything to be just perfect and I will put in the effort to make it happen.

Some of the modifications I would like to make is add an Aeropack retainer, so I'll have to read over the instructions and make it happen.

I'm impressed at the quality of the parts. The balsa fins are 1/4" thick and in perfect condition. The kit comes with a quality Topflight chute and Nomex blanket with Kevlar shock cord and eye screw. The tubes are really nice and the center rings seem well made and I like how Q-Modeling added their name to the bulkhead.



I plan on building this stock. I doubt if I will use any epoxy fillets. I want to keep the weight down on it as much as possible. I will use wood glue fillets and go over them with Titebond Molding and Trim Glue.



As far as finishing fins I'll go with the Aerogloss Dope method using the Balsa Fillercoat Primer and follow with the Sanding Sealer

Thumbing through the instructions for this kit and all I can say is I'm really impressed!! Well documented and easy to understand. There's a check box for east step so you know where you left off last. I'm looking forward to starting this build. Should be a lot of fun.



Well hopefully I'll get started on this Tuesday or Wednesday we'll see.

Stay tuned....

op:
Q modeling has some nice kits, I had the Hawkeye, then it took a core sample, then I went to order another one and found out that Q modeling was washed out from a storm, so now I'm waiting for them to reopen, the Bull Pup was going to be my next Q modeling kit. Can't wait to see you complete it. :grin:

I built the Nike X and Andromeda ,superb kits in every aspect !

I too wanted to buy the Bullpup ,but as mentioned ,the shop got washed out

I sure do hope they get back online !!

Paul T

I'm going to read over the directions this weekend and then start the build. As I work on it I'll take the pictures and post them. Like I mentioned before been busy with work and having limited build time.

Grrrrrrr.... I have always eyballed this kit. Now I want one in the worst way! I hope Q-Modeling opens back up soon!

I look forward to watching your build!


Jerome

I'm gonna go all out on this one. Try to make it as good as I can make it!

AfterBurners said:

I'm gonna go all out on this one. Try to make it as good as I can make it!

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Subscribed!

Reading over the instructions on the tail cone assembly calls for the use of "White Glue" I saw a video that Tim from Apogee made where he use rubber contact cement and it worked really well. There was no shrinkage and less mess.

Video

[video]https://www.apogeerockets.com/Advanced_Construction_videos/Rocketry_Video_11[/video]

Any feed back or suggestions. The only glue I have is Titebond Wood glue and Elmer's Glue All. Not sure if the Glue All is the same as the white glue (school glue). It says it's for bonding porous materials such as paper and cloth and semi-porous materials such as wood and pottery. My concern is the shrinkage if I use it.

I also have Elmer's Rubber Cement and Woodweld Contact Cement? I know it sounds like a stupid question, but are there different uses for each one?



Gotta run and pick up some long cotton swab stocks and get the girlfriend a yogurt.



I'll work on it more when I get back.

NOTE: Actually after inspecting the tail cone wrap it looks like it's made more out of card stock and not paper or maybe what Tim from refers to as Bristol board?

Hey Dan ,just a heads up about the nosecone.

They are/were made in house and are very nice as you can see ,but on my Nike X , I had much trouble painting it.
Not sure exactly what they are made of ,some sort of resin/polymer or something ,but the release agent really gets into the surface and causes fish eye, almost like silicone infection ,even after using a good primer (duplicolor) you could not tell, but after the gloss white paint was applied, the blemishes occured.

I did wash the cone the usual way (dish soap, rinse ,wipe down with alcohol and wipedown) and did the BEFORE any sanding was done (as per my usual)

Next time i will also give it a wipe with lacquer thinner also, then alcohol.

I know the owner uses a two part metal mold to make his nosecones ,and pours in the liquid that forms the NC, just not sure what it is, or the agent used to release the mold.

I have heard of this problem before ,although not a major deal ,better washing techniques may be needed.

I have seen this problem before in paint, where there is a contaminate on or in the surface.

Anyway ,happy building and look forward to seeing it ,great kit , wish i had one !!

Take care

Paul T

Thanks for the heads up Paul. I'll be certain to take more precautions when prepping the nose cone. I worked on the boat tail tonight. I started by drawing it across the edge of a table several times and spent the next two hours trying to shape it. I started with a 1" wood dowel and then move to another dowel but smaller and then back to a 24mm engine tube for the final smoothing of the shape. It really looks decent and no creases. I think I could have spent more time drawing it across the the edge of the table and it probably would have made the shaping much easier, but I'm happy so far with the results. Just takes time and patience. Right now I have it paper clipped together trying to form it shape. I'll come back later and work on shaping it some more. I'll probably use rubber cement to glue it together. It seems that the rubber cement has a little more give and will allow it to spring to it's shape.

I spent well over 3 hours forming this tail cone and I thought I had a great fit. Guess I was wrong.....I had issues with the tail cone and the bottom ring fitting properly. I thought since the ends butted flush and was a perfect fit everything else would be too. There was too much of a gap between the bottom support ring and the tail cone assembly. I had the tail cone already glued up so there was nothing I could do. Anyway probably either make another tail cone when I find the right material or sell the kit for cheap.

On top of that I lost my job today!! Back to the unemployment line!!! Oh well life a b**** then you die they say...

Anyone wants to buy it make me an offer. Missing card stock tail cone

pick1e said:

Well, that sucks, but on the bright side you have some extra time to work on rockets

I'm sure you can make a replacement tail cone. You gotta finish it, your Mom got it for you!

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I agree, don't be discourage by the tailcone, what I do when things turn out bad is I put the rocket away and give it a few days and get back to it, you may regret selling this kit since your my got it for you, so hang in there and give it a few days and get back at it. Sorry to hear you lost your job, but on the bright side you will have more time for rockets.

After a nights sleep I feel better. I decided to put it aside and I'll come back to it. I'll make another one no big deal. It was my first tail cone and I thought it was pretty decent not sure why it didn't work? Both ends butt flush so you would think it would work? Anyway I'll look for some Bristol board at Michael's, not unless you guys another suggestion?

Hope I can still collect unemployment.

I've used 110 lb. card stock(Wal-Mart among other places) to make transitions, for shaping a mouse pad/x-acto knife handle combo works pretty good. elmers works nicely provided you don't use too much( a thin coat, dries fast w/o wrinkling).
rex

I used contact Woodweld contact cement because it has a little give. Post #10 This is what I don't understand? If I formed the tail cone ends butt flush together then why would the smaller diameter of the tail cone be larger than the support ring? :confused2:I mean I can't change the size of the pattern by curling/shaping it. The only way it could be done would be to trim one end slightly to compensate for the oversize diameter? Does that make sense. So I was under impression that it would fit properly since it was a kit part and nowhere in the instructions did it mention that I had to trim it?

Like I mentioned before this was my very first attempt at making a tail coat. If I would have thought ahead I would have made several copies of the pattern is case something like this happened and practiced making a few in advance, but I felt I had the skills to do so, well guess I was wrong. I completely "GOOBERED" it!

heh, go here https://www.delorie.com/rockets/transitions.html enter the appropriate numbers and print out a number of transitions to practice with .
Rex

Rex R said:

heh, go here https://www.delorie.com/rockets/transitions.html enter the appropriate numbers and print out a number of transitions to practice with .
Rex

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Thanks Rex.... I should have done a scratch build first with a transition.

An old guy at a hobby store I worked for in my youth taught me an old adage:

"Beat it to fit and paint it to match!"

When its not perfect... as long as it works, you can always "Put some lipstick on a pig"

So needless to say I keep a variety of fillers, putties, epoxies, glues, files and standing blocks/pads etc.. on my work bench!

I've been building models of all sorts for decades.. but I still learn new things just about everyday!

Jerome

my first paper tail cone turned out fugly, the 2nd one was better...but thin ca and spot putty go a long way toward making them pretty . for me the key was getting them formed so they would hold their shape before gluing. yours will undoubtably get better as get more experience.
Rex

JeromeK99 said:

An old guy at a hobby store I worked for in my youth taught me an old adage:

"Beat it to fit and paint it to match!"

When its not perfect... as long as it works, you can always "Put some lipstick on a pig"

So needless to say I keep a variety of fillers, putties, epoxies, glues, files and standing blocks/pads etc.. on my work bench!

I've been building models of all sorts for decades.. but I still learn new things just about everyday!

Jerome

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There you go !

This technique still works for me ,good old lipstick and mascara on a pig makes everything look good.

As long as we have fillers ,putty ,trim Monokote and paint ,anything can look good !

Don`t let rolling papaer beat you ,just a little practice is all it takes.

I always copy and make spare cardstock transitions just in case ,especially for the TLP kits ,cause you just never know.

Keep at it Dan !!




Paul T

Dan, glad you did'nt sell it off. With your skills this should be a beauty.
Rex, thanks for posting that transition link--I woke up today wondering what it was--thanks
BTW it's--"lifes a B---- and then she goes into heat" at least that's the way it is around here !

Also ,if you still have that tail cone ,you could slice it apart at the join/seam ,then re-trace it on some heavy cardstock/Bristol board and you`re good to go and giv`r another go.

How much gap do you have betwix the tailcone and the aft centering ring ?

To take up the tolerences, you could roll another T.cone and shove it the existing cone, test fit and glue them together.It would also make the Tcone stronger and not add that much weight ,since this thing will fly on pretyy big reloads or SU if you set it up for that.

I Double up on my paper/cardstock transitions & Tcones all the time and give them a coat of finishing epoxy ,does a great job.

That`s how I made these.

Not to worry, there are ALWAYS options and fixes :wink:

I just got back from Michael's and picked up a huge shet of Bristol board for like $2. So now I'll have plenty to make additional transitional pieces for other rockets. I also bought a 3/4" wood dowel to add to my collection of dowels and to help shape the tail cones for the rocket. I start with 1" and work y way down to 3/4" Now I just need to get the pattern printed, but I have to wait until I get my laptop up and running again and I need ink for my printer. I'm going to use the ROCKSIM file for this kit and print he pattern from that of Pay Load bay or the link that Rex posted in post #20

Thanks again guys!! Ibet when I make my own it wil turn out better. I'm also going to double the lower portion of he transition with another smaller section to make up any gaps and strengthen it. Good idea Paul!!