Rocketgeek101's Estes Nike Smoke build.

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rocketgeek101

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Hello all!

This is the build thread for my Estes Nike Smoke. The kit is 41.8 inches tall, 3 inches in diameter and features a 29 millimeter motor mount.

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Here is a pic of the rocket from the Estes website.

I just placed the order for the kit today (Cost me $59 with free shipping!!:grin:), so I'll probably only receive it in a week or so. I also ordered some stuff from Apogee for this build (as well as a few things for my other MPR rockets too). I'm hoping to have this one ready to fly by next month.

This will be purely a MPR flyer for now. When I get my HPR certification I may fly it on a baby H, but until then I'll be only flying it on CTI F and G motors. Running a few rough simulations with a file I got on this forum from Rex R, It looks like I can expect around 2000ft flights on G motors which is more then high enough to satisfy me (I like the idea of high altitude flights, but I also like to be able to see my rocket during the entire flight).

Right now my plan is to paint it in the traditional paint scheme, but (assuming funds permit) give it its own unique twist with the help of stickershock23.

Modifications I plan on doing include:

-Replace the Estes retainer with an Aero Pack.

-Add a length of Kevlar to the shock cord (still debating on whether to use an eyebolt or just attach it Wildman style).

-Replacing the launch lugs with rail buttons (might use both we'll see).

-Use a Nomex blanket to protect the recovery system.

I've been researching the Nike Smoke on Google. There doesn't seem to be that much info on the original out there. So far I've found a few low quality pictures and one excellent scale diagram. Here is a link to some of the pictures I found: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Nike_Smoke If anybody has some pictures of the real Nike Smoke, could you please post them here? Thanks.

Anyway thats all for now,

rocketgeek101
 
I ended having to buy decals from Mark at Stickershock for mine. Stupid me, I taped over the Estes water slide decals to paint the fins and the decals disintegrated. Mark's decals are much better
 
I used an ss fishing leader attached to a DIY u-bolt in mine, to allow the use of a 9 x 9 chute protector. an AT F52-6T(8 sec drilled to 6 sec) works nicely. used the kit supplied lugs. glad you the file usefull.
rex
 
According to Canada Post, my Nike Smoke should arrive next Friday. It's gonna be a long week...:cyclops:
 
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I used an ss fishing leader attached to a DIY u-bolt in mine, to allow the use of a 9 x 9 chute protector. an AT F52-6T(8 sec drilled to 6 sec) works nicely. used the kit supplied lugs. glad you the file usefull.
rex
I could use the .rkt or .ork also, as I recently bought one. Thanks.
 
I am currently finishing up mine. The only mod I did was ditch the old tri-fold to elastic shock cord (that's the one thing Estes should really look at, I mean come on, after three or four flights, the APCP will burn right through that) and fiberglassed my nylon shock cord to the MMT. I just need to spray the Yellow on one fin and I'm done. And I left it 29mm.
 
My Nike arrived in the mail today! :grin:

I couldn't resist dry fitting it! It's a little bit shorter then my Arreaux, but a heck of a lot fatter! The pictures don't do justice to how big it feels in person.

The body tube's finish is not that great... it will take some filling to become smooth.:mad:

I'm waiting for some stuff to arrive from Apogee before starting the build.

Quick question: The motor tube has a slightly smaller diameter then I was told (might be an out of spec tube, though the motor case fits fine), which means the Aero Pack I ordered will have a loose fit (even the retainer provided with the kit has a loose fit). Would building up the end of the motor tube with some 1/4" masking tape until the Aero Pack has a snug fit do the trick, or are there better means of building up the OD of the motor tube?

Thanks.

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just arrange to have the retainer a) seat on the motor tube and b) the aft centering ring then c) take up the excess space with regular epoxy for the Estes retainer or JB Weld for the aeropack. if the ejection blows the motor out...your nose cone fits way, way too tight :).
rex
 
just arrange to have the retainer a) seat on the motor tube and b) the aft centering ring then c) take up the excess space with regular epoxy for the Estes retainer or JB Weld for the aeropack. if the ejection blows the motor out...your nose cone fits way, way too tight :).
rex

Thanks for the reply. I ordered the L2 sized retainer because it was almost a perfect fit according to the specifications I was told the motor tube would have. As it turns out, the motor tube is actually almost the perfect size for the L sized retainer. It's not a huge difference I guess, but the fact there is a more properly sized Aero Pack available, and the fact that using the L2 over the L may not be as strong is rather annoying to me.
 
people do tend to overestimate the forces acting on the motor during deployment. the surface area of a 29mm motor is a bit over 1 inch^2 that of a 4" nose cone approx. 12 in^2 assuming 10psi to eject the nose etc.(which is probably high) you get about 12 lb.s force on the motor and about 125 lbs force on the nose. wonder which one will move 1st? if it really bothers you order a new base for the retainer. I note that the closest fit for a Wildman motor tube(29mm) is on the loose side. to line everything up. apply jb weld to the retainer(do this with the cap off) (be a little generous) and some to the tube. put the base in position and clean up any squeeze out that occurs inside the mount. insert either a reload case or an su motor(preferably used) into the mount and allow the epoxy to setup, remove the motor, and you're done. HTH
rex
 
people do tend to overestimate the forces acting on the motor during deployment. the surface area of a 29mm motor is a bit over 1 inch^2 that of a 4" nose cone approx. 12 in^2 assuming 10psi to eject the nose etc.(which is probably high) you get about 12 lb.s force on the motor and about 125 lbs force on the nose. wonder which one will move 1st? if it really bothers you order a new base for the retainer. I note that the closest fit for a Wildman motor tube(29mm) is on the loose side. to line everything up. apply jb weld to the retainer(do this with the cap off) (be a little generous) and some to the tube. put the base in position and clean up any squeeze out that occurs inside the mount. insert either a reload case or an su motor(preferably used) into the mount and allow the epoxy to setup, remove the motor, and you're done. HTH
rex

Thanks for the reply. I guess I'll go forward and us the L2 base. I only have a motor case at the moment so I think I'll wrap it in wax paper – just incase a little JB gets inside the tube.
 
Flew mine for the first time this last weekend on a G53j , nice flight.

I always toss the supplied mmt and cut a section of LOC tube , then buy ahead on the corresponding aeropack. Started that because my onsire vendor will not sell the bases seperately - but now its kinda nice because I can size the mmt to suit my whim .

Wish I would have sourced a coupler to fit or fg the inner rear of the bt. Have a small crumple there now on where the nike landed

Kenny
 
My stuff arrived from Apogee a few days ago. I now have everything I need to get started:grin:. Unfortunately, I won't be able to work on this build until next sunday at the earliest, but after that, I should have plenty of time to work on it.

Stay tuned, I'm planning on making this build thread as good as qquake2k's are (if thats at all possible:wink:)

rg101
 
Finally got started building this baby!

I used wood glue to attach the middle CR and The forward CR (the pic also shows the aft CR and the Aero Pack, but those haven't been glued in yet -- I was just dry fitting them).

Assembled the fins using CA as per instructions. I must be a slow worker as I had trouble keeping up with the CA!!! I tell you that stuff just cures so fast...

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Since this is a lot like my Ventris... Use an eyebolt. The supplied method failed for me, and resulted in a less than optimal recovery. (1k free fall for the BT >.<) You then should be able to use the supplied elastic or get some Kevlar to attach it. (It may be short now that I think about it...)

Looking forward to this build, been wanting to get one myself... Just waiting for the funds at Brendan and Co. to go up... XD
 
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good trick getting a rocket over 1'000'000' (1000k) think you mean 1k :).
rex
 
Since this is a lot like my Ventris... Use an eyebolt. The supplied method failed for me, and resulted in a less than optimal recovery. (1k free fall for the BT >.<) You then should be able to use the supplied elastic or get some Kevlar to attach it. (It may be short now that I think about it...)

Looking forward to this build, been wanting to get one myself... Just waiting for the funds at Brendan and Co. to go up... XD

Seconded. I'm not sure why Estes believes their mounts scale up to this size... Use an eyebolt and some parachute cord or something. I've used braided nylon rope from Home Depot with success.

Also, before you put the motor mount in, wrap the part of the shock cord that's inside the body tube with some duct tape. Poor mans shock cord protector!
 
Are the fin halves Styrene? I'm asking because I'm thinking of buying one of these, and I'd prefer to use Plastruct to weld the halves together rather than using CA (which hates me)....

G.D.
 
Ok I have FINALLY worked on this one some more! Building was put on hold because I ran out of gloves so I couldn't use epoxy. Yesterday I went to the hardware store an picked up 2 packs of 100 gloves, so I won't be running out anytime soon!

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Once I had the gloves on hand (Pun intended), the first order of business was to glue the aft CR and Aero Pack to the motor tube using JB Weld. You can see from the first photo that for shock cord attachment, I will be doing something similar to what Madcow rocketry does on their MPR kits. Once the JB cures I will apply an epoxy fillet to the aft and forward CRs and shock cord attachment point.

'Tis all for now.

I apologize for the low res photos. I took them with my iPod which has a pretty sucky camera.

Rocketgeek101
 

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Are the fin halves Styrene? I'm asking because I'm thinking of buying one of these, and I'd prefer to use Plastruct to weld the halves together rather than using CA (which hates me)....

G.D.

I admit I have no idea what they're made of. It's very glossy plastic if that helps.
 
Sorry for the delays in the build. I have been really busy the last few weeks; but it looks like I'll have some time this week to continue work on her...
 
I've been told that the fins are the same type of plastic as the nose cone.
rex
 
I would bet the fins are made of a styrene plastic ,in which case Tenax7 ,Ambroid liquid cement is the BEST option.Sorry ,but CA is just not made for plastics, it may work,but it is not the best option.

Nice rocket kit in any case ,and one that is on my list for sure !

Cheers

paul T
 
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