Wireless Launch Control System V2

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I have a question. The stuff I got from you works just fine. I did buy another system off of Amazon, it's like the one in this thread. I have not set my code yet. But once I set the 8 bit code..how does the reciever know the code?

I'll post some photos once I finish mine up.

Tony
 
Hi Tony... I have a similar setup. After I changed the code on the transmitter, there's a button on the Receiver that you push and hold until the LED flashes, then you just hit
a button on the Transmitter and it locks it in. Very simple, worked perfectly for me.

R
 
Any body figure how to make elgal for a club launch? Safety key?
 
Although I'm not done yet, I put a safety in the relay box. I have been busy getting my son ready for his NAR junior level 1. Chuck I did purchase a commercial wireless unit for us to to use at the away cell just in case this project does not turn out.
 
I have a question. The stuff I got from you works just fine. I did buy another system off of Amazon, it's like the one in this thread. I have not set my code yet. But once I set the 8 bit code..how does the reciever know the code?

I'll post some photos once I finish mine up.

Tony

The receiver will learn the new code, but first you delete the old code. Here is a video on how to do it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xme-TEGGgY Let me know if you need anymore help.
 
Although I'm not done yet, I put a safety in the relay box. I have been busy getting my son ready for his NAR junior level 1. Chuck I did purchase a commercial wireless unit for us to to use at the away cell just in case this project does not turn out.

Brent,

That is awesome. Very generous. What system did you buy?
 
Hey Chuck, I purchased the Rocktronics system with 2000' range. It has continuity, 12 V rechargeable battery, and safety key. It single channel, but it has all the features that I wanted. I plan on trying it out at Aprils launch. Thinking L900 in my Intimidator 5. I also looked into building a system with the WRC from Missile Works but it looked to be an expensive task. I plan on selling my Pratt Hobbies Sure Fire III rechargeable relay launch system now.
 
Brent,

I had looked at the same systems. I was waiting on the WRC to see if some build a system to copy. I am still not sure why the the wireless system they have could not work for the away cell.

If we had two fo them, we could do 16 wireless pads and use the current wired system for low power only. The weakness of the wireless systems is it is harder to to drag races.
 
Thank you for posting the link for the switch, I will order some and give them a try.
 
This should be NAR/TRA approved!


Not pretty, but its functional.
IMG_1602_zps2aac60e7.jpg

IMG_1603_zps105ec60a.jpg
 
I'm not done with my set up yet..gettin close. I went with using 30 amp automotive relays. There will also be a relay attached to the 'safety key' switch. The switches are only rated for 1 amp.

For the box I went with a weather proof plastic storage box.
IMG_1510.jpg

Looking inside. I still need to install the "safety Switch" where the green tape is..and some + - posts to charge the battery. The front of the box is a storage area for the igniter leads. Most of the panel is made from G10. I also installed continuity checks before each channel is armed. I set up a test continuity with an ematch and left it hooked up for 2 hours. It did not fire the ematch..I'll call that good.
IMG_1511.jpg

I used some RCA phone jacks RS#274-0319 for the igniter leads and a 4 outlet phone jack to plug into RS#274-322
IMG_1513.jpg

For an antenna..not sure if it helps or hurts..looks cool..went with these parts 28" telescoping antenna RS#270-1405 soldierd to a banana plug RS#278-321
IMG_1514.jpg

I just did a basic test and everything works out to 949 foot..longest stretch in front on my house..

Thanks to jus_rockets and Ron for helping me along the way.

Tony
 
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Great job Tony, it looks great! I really like the racecar panel look with the toggle switches. I would like to see how you wired yours if you don't mind. I should be building two more and would like to add continuity check on them. A friend is coming over tomorrow and we will test the range on mine to see if we can get at least 2000 feet, longest I went was a 1/4 mile. And you are welcome, glad I could help!
 
I will be building two new controllers that will have all the components enclosed inside a Pelican 1200 watertight case. I am adding a voltmeter and charging posts, still no continuity check since I don't need it. If you guys want me to make a new thread let me know.

IMG_1611_zpsf7ab394e.jpg
 
It looks like this thread has died, but if there's anyone that can get me started on a wireless launch system, I would really appreciate the help! I've done some searches but still have not found where I can buy the RF system. Help? Thanks!
 
It looks like this thread has died, but if there's anyone that can get me started on a wireless launch system, I would really appreciate the help! I've done some searches but still have not found where I can buy the RF system. Help? Thanks!

If you need help feel free to message me.
 
I just finished this one yesterday. The most expensive part was the pelican case, panel mount, and panel at about $100. I can make them a little above cost to anyone interested.




 
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I just finished up mine a few minutes ago. It's not as professional looking as jus_rockets. Thanks for the help Jaun!

I had bought some of those "mini" key switches..but could not figure out how to squeeze them into the transmiter. My hats off to you Juan for getting them in there. I went with a home made "banana plug" I made it out of some 1/8 brass tube, a plastic spacer and a sleeve..(straws). The key is made from 3/32 brass. I used a dremel and a die grinder to gut the battery tray to get things to fit. I also, removed the spring battery connectors and went with a 'normal' 9v battery clip.
IMG_1517.jpg

IMG_1528.jpg

A buddy of mine did the labeling for me. The storage in the front holds the 4 launch leads that are 15-30 foot long.
IMG_1529A.jpg

I had added 30 amp automotive relays. It was strong enough to burn a 12v head light for as long as I wanted to hold the button down!
IMG_1530A.jpg

My buddy who did the labeling took some artistic freedom...
IMG_1531.jpg

This was a fun project and I'm happy with how it turned out.

Tony
 
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Your welcome! Great idea on the key, putting that key switch was a PITA for sure.
 
Here is the wire diagram that I used... Continuity works well... follow the red wire back from the pad and you'll see 2 circles, one is light the other is a resistor if your light doesn't work as a resistor...

12 volt  for 4 pads.jpg
 
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That is the wiring diagram that I used for the most part. The green LED's that I got from Radio shack have built in resistors. I heat soaked to different ematches for an hour "on continuity" and neither one fired.

Tony
 
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