Wireless Launch Control System V2

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You have it wired wrong. Wire the (-) Negative straight to the battery, then jump the (+) from the receiver to the common for each channel. The NO will be the power output coming out of the relay after the button is pressed. Here are some pictures of how I wired mine.

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I just received this unit in the mail today. I sure am thankful that you posted this information!!!! because it came with ZERO information.
 
OK so I wanted the ability and safety of getting a unique code so I got a unit from crazy cart like you guy got to replace my other unit. The larger size transmitter is nice to add a momentary contact switch for added safety. Odd thing is it powers a 12 volt light bulb (meant for low volt lighting) and at short range, under 5 feet away, it runs great with the light lighting up and turning off as expected. Step back to 20 feet and the light alternates on and off when it should be solid on, as I would think. Then I turned the light on from 3 feet away and the light is on solid and I can walk away with the light still solid while holding it on. I'm not sure if an AC 12 volt light bulb is the proper testing devise... What do you all test with? any other thoughts?
 
Turns out there is a differance in bulbs (AC vs DC) because my dome light from my car works fine... All works fine, 615 feet but that was as far away as I could get...
 
Hello guys, I have some questions

How are you integrating a banana plug adapter to the telescoping antenna? Also, how are you connecting the antenna wire from the receiver board to the antenna? Im a bit confused on how you've connected your external RF antenna into your receiver board. Pictures or Diagrams would be most helpful :)

Everything looks great by the way!
Thank you
 
Just stumbled into this. I've used a coded launch controller similar to the above I got from RfRemo (they go by a different name now) 9 years ago. The receivers can learn the code from the transmitter and there is an exposed coding switch block on the transmitting device. I just scramble the switches and even if the unit is turned on and pushed, nothing happens unless the switches are aligned properly. Alas, they don't make a unit like this anymore so the earlier post of the keyswitch applied to the unit is a good one.

The receivers do not have a large enough capacity relay to fire an igniter but can energize a relay to switch a higher capacity battery in the circuit. Basically, I had a very long range wireless controller for $60.00.
Granted, it's not a Wilson F/X launch controller but it doesn't carry the price and is plenty safe enough for me and others. Certainly in a heavily used club situation and heavy duty device is better but I've had good use out of my simply system for years now.

It's great for ground motor tests cause I can set it up and carry out the test from a heck of a loooooooong distance away without a cable run. I'm more willing to risk a camera than skin and bone which can be setup closer than where I care to stand!. Kurt
 
Most of this thread is over a decade old, so maybe there have been some electronics advances worth mentioning...? Anyone?

Also, does anyone have complete directions---circuit diagrams and parts list---for both launch control and the pad box? I'm sure some smaller clubs and even individuals that can't afford a commercial unit would love to be able to build one.
 
Most of this thread is over a decade old, so maybe there have been some electronics advances worth mentioning...? Anyone?

Also, does anyone have complete directions---circuit diagrams and parts list---for both launch control and the pad box? I'm sure some smaller clubs and even individuals that can't afford a commercial unit would love to be able to build one.
It's a great thread to bring back from the dead. I suspect most clubs have moved to a WilsonFX but we will see.
 
Here is a link to a file of some of the wiring stuff I used to build my box.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/17sj-1swnaHStEFrbvLSJEcvCN02Ms4j0?usp=drive_link

Building this maxed out my wiring knowledge and ability. Please don't ask me how or why electrical questions. I've long forgot what and why I did what I did.

These boxes are cheap to make and easy to use. We use 2 of them for family fun launches or for schools stuff...and up to Q stuff out at BR.

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Tony
 
The clubs I go to have the Wilson systems and they are awesome, but too expensive for at home. I have been doing some ignitor and ejection testing and got tired of my old system that had a 30ft cord I had to roll out every time. A few weeks ago, I bought some parts and started designing a housing. This is my current version. The box on the right has a relay inside and I have been using a 3.7 lipo, 9v or a 11.1V Li-Ion. The controller on the left has a supper bright LED, loud buzzer, and an interlock pin for the power switch.

Possible future improvements:
- Continuity test feature on the relay box
- A test light function on the relay box
- A buzzer on the relay box
- Easy replaceable batterie on the control box.
- Doing a partial redesign to allow for 4 outputs

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I have been Using ESP 32 for a wireless launch controller. Currently running WiFi, but could just as easily use LoRa.
Couple of the pictures show ready, not armed and armed.
 

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