20 MILLION MILES TO EARTH

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I can't believe nobody picked up on this: Pic 3- is that a signed picture by Ray Harryhousen? My middle son worships this guy-partly responsible for him working in Hollywood. Kid made a million little stop motion films starting when he was 8. I was able to get him a signed book for Christmas one year and two years later both the older boys got to have lunch with him! You have a collector's item there! How cool! BTW- you know you have mad design skills-loved the drafting-very nice as always.

Thanks fyrwrxz, sorry I'm running a bit behind on this one --got out of the holidays and right into the worst flu I'VE EVER HAD!! Getting better though, hope to restart in a couple days--at least I've had time to think about the project and some of the coffin corners I might run into!----H
 
Thanks fyrwrxz, sorry I'm running a bit behind on this one --got out of the holidays and right into the worst flu I'VE EVER HAD!! Getting better though, hope to restart in a couple days--at least I've had time to think about the project and some of the coffin corners I might run into!----H

I hope you're feeling better soon! Nothing worse than being ill :(

Krusty
 
Ok , finally getting back to work on the 20 mill. I'm hoping to get the styrfoam plugs glassed up over the next 2 days---I weighed the foam plugs today---more of a reference point than anything. I'm darn near sure I'll be gringing them out once I'm satisfied with the layups. Top plug was 4.7 oz the bottom was 4.6 oz. Anyway, the first thing I had to do was cover the plugs--I picked up a window sealing kit from wallyworld--about 9 bucks. The plastic is heat shrink!---DSCF0279.jpg The first thing was to lay down a piece of double sided tape -(supplied in kit) along the length of the plug---DSCF0280.jpg---next i laid the plug onto the edge of the plastic. The tape is sticky enough to hold but not so sticky that you can't adjust things if you need to. You still want to get as many wrinkles out as you can. This can be a bit frustrating working over a compound curve--I some times wish I was blessed with extra arms. Once wrapped ,I twisted the ends tight and secured them with clear scotch tape---DSCF0281.jpg---Repeated the process on the othe plug. the next step was to shrink it tight---just use a blow dryer up close--make sure to rotate and hit all the surface and shrink everything nice and tight. In the end about 99% of the wrinkles pulled out--any that were left were tiny and will have no effect on the finished product--DSCF0282.jpgDSCF0284.jpg---Should start laying glass in a couple of hours--need to eat and do a couple honey doos!---more later---H
 
Started the glassing process. going pretty smooth with only a couple hick-ups. Before I go any further I should explain a couple things for some of the new guys or for those of you that think your talents are limited. In most of my builds I try to use materials that are easily obtained--usually at a store--typically I try to order as little online as I can. Also some of the materials I use will make a few of you scratch your head---Usually this is for the benifit of beginners or folks who are not familiar with certain techniques or do not have access to a large shop area. The name of the game is DIY. So, what works for some may not work for all. That said, here is your first head scratcher---I used polyester resin on this build--why? I had it in stock and it's easy to find at most stores and the Aqua Resin thing was'nt going to happen. Typically these days we use 2 part epoxy resins, but they can be expensive and hard to find. They do have advantages though. First picture is what you'll need--resin,hardner,something to mix with ,something to mix in, fiberglass cloth,scissors,knife, some latex gloves are a great idea--I don't use them--just can'tfeel what I'm doing.DSCF0292.jpg. I cut the cloth into strips, pretty much on the fold lines--DSCF0293.jpg---Next I cut them into various lenghts from 1 ft to about 2 ft. Started at the rear and worked forward, spiraling around the plug. If your not used to glassing like this --don't worry about the stringy things--just the nature of the beast--get them to lay down as best you can. I use sponge brushes to mix and spread the resin---have several on hand--in time the resin will disolve them. One more thing ,don't overwork the fabric . Just try to get it as smooth as possible,remember your gonna sand it down later anyway. One thing I decided early on was that the body was only an aeroshell and not really structural -so I can build it lite and let the internals handle the major loads.. Another hint keep everything you need close by!! I managed to drop my container of mixed resin on my deck--WHAT A MESS! Also the temp outside is falling so I expect the cure time to be extended quite a bit---DSCF0294.jpgDSCF0295.jpgDSCF0296.jpg---H
 
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Was there any "champipple" involved in the dropping of the resin ,onto the deck ? You can tell me ,I won`t laugh or make fun of your well tuned palate LOL

I`m happy to hear you are over that flu, I`ve heard very bad things in the news about it ,and very glad you`re back at this project.I`ve never really done any true fiberglass layups ,so i`m always happy to learn new stuff.I`m surprised you can find that window plastic film where you live ,as it`s quite common up here in the "Hinterlands" .

Damn fine work as per usual !

Take care ,and SALUT !

Paul T
 
Was there any "champipple" involved in the dropping of the resin ,onto the deck ? You can tell me ,I won`t laugh or make fun of your well tuned palate LOL

I`m happy to hear you are over that flu, I`ve heard very bad things in the news about it ,and very glad you`re back at this project.I`ve never really done any true fiberglass layups ,so i`m always happy to learn new stuff.I`m surprised you can find that window plastic film where you live ,as it`s quite common up here in the "Hinterlands" .

Damn fine work as per usual !

Take care ,and SALUT !

Paul T

As luck would have it--the container fell a section of concrete that was wet---hoping i'll be able to peel it up after it sets---It was not a champipple moment but there were words said!!!! I'm setting down to a glass of wine now. On projects like this I tend to go a little lite on the hardener to give me more working time--but I had not planned on the rapid temperature drop , so it's taking longer to set up than expected--oh well, It is setting though and I've brought it indoors to help--Thankfully the wife does not mind the smell of glasswork !! I'll most likely do the rear section tomorrow. After that I'll be in sanding heaven for a while. Ya know I should have mentioned this earlier---one of the advantages of 2 part epoxy-like West systems and such- is it's low odor--some even have a no odor formula! So when using polyester resin work outside or in a well ventilated area---frankly it does not bother me but most folks are sensitive to it!
 
I was going to ask you about that actually.I have not used a poly resin,but have used West often ,so I didn`t know there was an odour to the poly.I suppose if/when I do some FG work ,perhaps I`ll stick to the West.

Did you mention what weight cloth you used ? I`m not even sure I know the proper applications of the various cloth weights ,but i need to order some on-line.

May I send you a PM ? It`s just a short question.

Thankyou

Paul T
 
I was going to ask you about that actually.I have not used a poly resin,but have used West often ,so I didn`t know there was an odour to the poly.I suppose if/when I do some FG work ,perhaps I`ll stick to the West.

Did you mention what weight cloth you used ? I`m not even sure I know the proper applications of the various cloth weights ,but i need to order some on-line.

May I send you a PM ? It`s just a short question.

Thankyou

Paul T

I'm using off the shelf cloth from the store--not sure of the weight but it's heavier than we typically use--the weight is not marked on the package-It's bondo 499 -I'm gonna guess it's 6 oz---I'll look into it though--I to was curious---Like I said earlier--I'm trying to use stuff that's readily available---maybe not perfect for the application but usable with a little work--each pack has 8 square ft.
 
The easiest way to deal with the oder of polyester is to put it into a polyethylene bag or wrap it in a sheet of polyethylene drop sheet. All the smell stays inside.

Dum question time ; what is 'champipple'?


Richard
 
The easiest way to deal with the oder of polyester is to put it into a polyethylene bag or wrap it in a sheet of polyethylene drop sheet. All the smell stays inside.

Dum question time ; what is 'champipple'?


Richard

Champipple---champagne and ripple mixed and served at room temp---goes great with marshmellons!
 
As HD knows ,it`s a cross between champagne and ripple.It`s a line from sanfor & Son ,gotta love Redd Foxx !

You fellas know of a good place to order FG cloth online ? I would think a light weight would do me well.

Paul t
 
Aircraft Spruce and Specialty has about everything you need--It'll be a learning experience for sure--Honestly, Hobby Town or any good RC dealer will have what your looking for--not cheap --but you can go and see the differences and talk to a real human
 
Aircraft Spruce and Specialty has about everything you need--It'll be a learning experience for sure--Honestly, Hobby Town or any good RC dealer will have what your looking for--not cheap --but you can go and see the differences and talk to a real human

I never thought of RC joints ,we have about 2 or 3 where I live.

Thanks

Paul t
 
Got a bit more done on the 20 mill project today. Put another layer of glass on the nose area. It's pretty chilly outside so I upped the hardner a tick---also warmed the resin in some warm water---this also helps to thin it out a bit---. No pics of the nose,looks the same as before but set up nicely. Also did the rear section. since it's shaped different than the front ,it was a little easier to handle so I did both layers at the same time one behind the other. Also used smaller strips--about 8 in or so. Happy with the way it turned out. It too is also set and hard----DSCF0298.jpgDSCF0299.jpg---I'll let it set for the rest of the day in case there are some hidden wet spots I can't find and start the sanding process tomorrow night--maybe--we'll see how cold it is. That part has to be done outside--really makes a mess !! More later----H
 
Update--everything is nice and hard. Gonna hold off a couple days before I start sanding. 2 reasons ---it's damn cold outside ---2--gonna build a vacume sanding box for this--I hate fiberglass dust--drives my forearms crazy! and it makes a mess. So I guess this has turned into 2 projects . In the end I guess it works out better--should be able to stabalize the spin sanding better and keep the mess to a minimum---should be fun----H
 
Update--everything is nice and hard. Gonna hold off a couple days before I start sanding. 2 reasons ---it's damn cold outside ---2--gonna build a vacume sanding box for this--I hate fiberglass dust--drives my forearms crazy! and it makes a mess. So I guess this has turned into 2 projects . In the end I guess it works out better--should be able to stabalize the spin sanding better and keep the mess to a minimum---should be fun----H

Looking & sounding good so far!

The vac box is a good idea :) Last time I did a bunch of FG sanding I was itching for days after it! Argh!!

Krusty
 
I have some ideas--I think I'll draw up some plans and put them out there for the gang to do a critical review. My guess is --someone has done this before or been down this road. No reason to reinvent the wheel again ! In the long run this might be a good investment--I have plans for another ship that will require the same techniques, so it won't be a waste !
 
I made myself a nice little sanding box years ago and still use it today.It`s just a box 4 feet wide ,18" deep and 6" high made of pine boards with a 1/4" hardboard bottom and the top made of pegboard.I hook it up to my portable duct collector..works a treat

I use it for woodworking projects but also when sanding body tubes of all sorts (FG included) as well as nosecones and fins.

If I`m only using a portion of the surface ,I`ll take a piece of cardboard and blank off hlf the surface ,this increases the suction and concentrates it to where you are sanding.You could also use a ShopVac that has good suction and a larger hose ,say the 2 1/4 - 2 1/2 " diameter variety.I just bought a nice Rigid wet/dry from Home Depot and brother does it suck !

Take care


Here`s a picture.

Paul T

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phpFJrWonPM.jpg
 
Pegboard ! What a great idea ! now I have some real food for thought---thanks---I like your open design as opposed to the closed box idea I had--really opens up a lot of options---I've got the shop vac part covered---gotta tell ya I like your design better than mine---mind if I copy? Any shortcomings I should know about or things you would change?
 
Pegboard ! What a great idea ! now I have some real food for thought---thanks---I like your open design as opposed to the closed box idea I had--really opens up a lot of options---I've got the shop vac part covered---gotta tell ya I like your design better than mine---mind if I copy? Any shortcomings I should know about or things you would change?

Copy away ,my friend ! I got the idea from seeing a store bought Delta model ,but too much cash.There really isn`t anything I would change about the design to tell you the truth ,perhaps but a trap door on one end to clean it out, as there will always be some dust that stays in the box ,but not a big deal.

I have used cardboard to make temp. sides ,but it`s really not needed.Like I say ,if you are only using half the surface ,block off the rest to increase suction.

Best thing is ,it`s cheap to make and works well ,really depends on the power of your machine.

Good luck and happy building (your rocket and dust table) LOL


Cheers

Paul t
 
Wow what a nice day outside 66 w/10-15. I was going to go to the DARS launch today but I think I'll work on the 20 mill. I have not built the sanding box but the breeze is blowing off my deck so I gave it a try. First thing I did was start on the nose section, it was the roughest and hardest to handle.I used a vibrating sander to knock down the high spots. the pics show it after about 15 minutes of sanding , still more to do but it's coming out as expected . There is a high ridge that runs about half the length that I need to get out--really can't see it but you can feel the difference. I think it should take about another 30 minutes with 60 grit to get everything where I want it. Then I'll put the capture tool on it and begin spin sanding it to true it up---don't have a timeline on that but both halves should be done by tomorrow night assuming I don't run into any real problems. I'm doing this in short stints and taking a break every so often. The front and rear portions of the nose are going to be clipped off so I won'y sand the last couple of inches at either end----DSCF0300.jpgDSCF0301.jpg-more later today---H
 
Where`s the wind and FG dust blowing ...into the neighbours window LOL

I don`t envy the sanding part ,never do ,but dang......you are lucky to have nice weather !

Me......snow ,blowing snow :eyeroll:

Paul t
 
Where`s the wind and FG dust blowing ...into the neighbours window LOL

I don`t envy the sanding part ,never do ,but dang......you are lucky to have nice weather !

Me......snow ,blowing snow :eyeroll:

Paul t

Hav'nt heard any complaints---YET !
 
Got a little more done . I moved on to the rear section, it's obvious the front is gonna take some time and TLC. It's just a pain to stabilize but, I have a plan. Anyway, the rear section came out better to begin with --this was a function of laying it up with multiple coats while the underlying areas were still wet--you can just smooth things out easier and I new this going into the project ---soooo---no big surprises-----. I put it to the spin cycle--I needed to change my approach to how I stabalized the small end . Here's what I came up with--DSCF0303.jpgDSCF0304.jpg---It's a couple of PVC fittings--the gray one is electrical the white one plumbing--they screw together and then I screwed a self tapping screw in the center---this assembly was pushed into the foam core and the nut shape of the gray part keeps it from coring out the foam. Total cost 3 bucks and change , worked like a champ---all sanding was done in the vertical position--pressing down---I foung a little divot and placed the screw head in it so it would not float around----you need a lot of side preasure when doing this and chasing the part is no fun---WORKED GREAT---DSCF0302.jpg---In the end the part had very few high or low spots and feel and looks great--There was one small area that had a void--no biggie--I can take care of that later---. Went ahead and put a coat of spot putty on it to get it smooth and take care of any pinholes---as you can see I put it on thin--did'nt need anymore that this-----originally I thought it would be rougher than this and was prepared to use body filler---NOT NEEDED !!!--The nose might be a different story-------DSCF0307.jpgDSCF0308.jpg----I'll let this sit overnight and sand tomorrow--Primer should take care of any other problem areas---as for the nose--just gonna take some elbow grease--should be good though----H--------Did'nt realize those pics were so blurred --I'll get some better ones out !!!!
 
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Got up early and sanded down the rear section--pretty happy with it so far--had to put a little putty here and there--it's drying----went ahead and glazed the nose section --It was not as bad as I thought--had a couple dimples that were bothering me--I'll get pics out later--still a little dark out --need to hit wallyworld--need primer.
 
Morning HD...you are up early aren`t you ?

Me too ,5:30 AM ,coffee and just got off the router table.

You in the same time zone as me ?It`s almost 8:00 AM

Paul t
 
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