Madcow Sea Wolf construction

So I'm finally getting around to building the Sea Wolf I got for Christmas last year, and I'm looking at this kit.

Paper airframe and mmt, plywood centering rings and fins.

Now, the kit instructions specify epoxy, but since good quality wood glue creates a bond stronger than the materials involved when applied properly, why shouldn't I use Titebond?

I know that the AeroPack needs JB Weld, that's a given, but do I really need epoxy otherwise? Isn't that just adding weight to the aft end of a rocket that already is gonna need a decent amount of nose weight due to the fin size and placement?

I'll post pictures when I'm done with building, SWMBO has banned the camera from the shop due to an incident involving CA, so no build pix....

G.D.

I built their paper 4" Little John using Titebind II, and TBM&T. Seems to fly just fine. It is possible that years down the road it may come apart, but by then I'll be too senile to care...

Have fun, play safe
Terry

Wood + paper = Titebond

Epoxy fillets to finish it off.

At least that's what I do. YMMV

If people think that using epoxy adds weight, they're clearly using too much. Being stronger than wood glue, you should be able to use less.

Use Titebond II for everything, except the retainer.

My son built one for Level 1; I've built lots of wood/cardboard kits with Titebond II. It works just fine, it holds up just fine over time.

-Kevin

gdiscenza said:

I'll post pictures when I'm done with building, SWMBO has banned the camera from the shop due to an incident involving CA, so no build pix....

G.D.

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I gotta hear this...

blackbrandt said:

I gotta hear this...

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Let's just say that thick CA will happily bond a forearm to a point-and-shoot digital camera, and leave it at that.....

G.D.

I built the Seawolf two years ago (posted pics here somewhere) and it flies great......but I needed plenty of nosewieght.....I mean PLENTY !

I used epoxy throughout ,but that`s just my building technique ,and plenty on those miles of fillets (although I like to keep my fin fillets on the small side)

Plenty of wood to sand and fill on that SOB ,but it sure is a great looking missile when done.My friend did his level 1 on the Madcow Seawolf using a CTI H123 Skidmark ,great flight ,but again ,he also needed to add a good deal of nose weight.

Did you want to see a picture of my finished kit ?

Have fun with the build !

Cheers

Paul T

I think I'll stick to Titebond.

One other thing I'm considering is with the aft fin plates. They are supposed to sit flat against the airframe, but don't really due to the interface between flat plywood and paper tube. My plan is to glue some 3/8" balsa to the bottom of each of the plates, then with 80-grit sandpaper taped to the airframe, sand away most of the center of the balsa until it fits the tube tightly.

I suspect that balsa will be lighter than the equivalent amount of filler, but who knows...

Oh, and Paul, please don't post your pictures, no offense. Your work is too nice to go into this thread, it'll make what I build look like complete junk....

G.D.

I guess recommending you fiberglass the body tube and fins would be counterproductive to your goal? :duck:

But think how STRONG it would be!!! And you could use a bigger motor!!! No spirals to fill. The benefits just go on and on!!!

Ok, I'll shut up now. I've reached that point in my life I'll glass anything that I can get my hands on...............

neond7 said:

I've reached that point in my life I'll glass anything that I can get my hands on...............

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Is that how you make things stiffer as you get older?

mdoering said:

Is that how you make things stiffer as you get older?

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It's not the method I'd recommend, but I can see where it might work. :tongue:

When I built mu Bat Ray (BT-70) I just used Titebond II for the exactly same reasons. It creates a strong bond, plus it cleans up a lot easier. So YES go with wood glue and you shouldn't have an issue. Good luck on your build!

On another note - If you decide to use wood glue fillets tape off the areas as you would if making epoxy fillets. When you pull the tape back you have crisp ...clean fillets with no glue smears on the body tube or fins. I use this method all the time and it works fantastic!!