98mm N5800 MD rocket for BALLS

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As I mentioned in a few other threads, I am currently building a 98mm MD rocket for BALLS, so I decided I'd make a build thread. I'm not going to post my full design yet, since it's still somewhat fluid as I'm building - especially with regards to the recovery system. However, I will post some pictures as I go. This design is expected to weigh in at less than 10 pounds with everything but motor (I'm actually shooting for 7, but I'm not convinced that will happen), has an overall length of 76.6 inches from the tip of the nose to the back of the nozzle. Unlike several of the N5800 designs proposed and under construction, I'm going for a metal-free build, in the hopes that I can make this work with all composite structures (just for a bit of added challenge). Depending on the sim you believe, as well as a few parameters that aren't quite nailed down yet, it's expected to go anywhere from 90,000 to upwards of 130,000 feet if it boosts straight and holds together, with a top speed of mach 4.2, so it should soundly take the N record if it actually holds together, as well as having a shot at the Carmack prize if it is still unclaimed as of BALLS this year......snipped.

For those who have forgotten this is what we are to be talking about.

The statement "...if it actually holds together....." gives me the creeps as the one running the launch.
I would really like to see "I have tested all the materials successfully, have worked out the issues as I worked up in impulse". Just a shot in the dark and hope it all holds does not give me a warm fuzzy.
I know it takes a lot of time and money to do this but we get a lot of rockets burning in.

Mark
 
For those who have forgotten this is what we are to be talking about.

The statement "...if it actually holds together....." gives me the creeps as the one running the launch.
I would really like to see "I have tested all the materials successfully, have worked out the issues as I worked up in impulse". Just a shot in the dark and hope it all holds does not give me a warm fuzzy.
I know it takes a lot of time and money to do this but we get a lot of rockets burning in.

Mark

Mark,

I say that because, quite honestly, I have never flown this fast or high before, and no other commercial motor that I am aware of can push a rocket this high and fast. Could I say that I am absolutely sure that it will work? No, not without lying. Since there have been several attempts, every one of which has shredded, it's still somewhat of an unknown where exactly the line is between a rocket which will survive an N5800 and one which will not. When I originally came up with this concept, a bit over a year ago, I was pretty confident it would hold together, and I have refined the design substantially since then. However, since the concept, a number of other rocketeers have attempted to fly this motor in a minimum diameter rocket, and to date, all of them have shredded, including some very impressively constructed rockets. Looking at these past attempts has significantly changed my design, and it does make me wonder what exactly is required to make this work.

I have successfully flown up to around mach 2 before, and I have discussed the project extensively with people who have flown in the neighborhood of mach 3. Since my local club has a standing 20k waiver with windows to 35k, we have a number of altitude junkies, and as a result, high performance flights tend to be somewhat more common at my local club than most places in the US, and that has resulted in a number of people with fairly extensive experience at high altitude, high speed flights. However, the fact is, the number of currently active rocketeers who have successfully flown and recovered a mach 4 class rocket could probably be counted on one hand, at least as far as I know. As for working my way up to this in impulse? If you actually run the simulations, the only thing that might even come close in speed would be a 75mm minimum diameter on the new 75mm 6xl imax, and even that doesn't get up to the same kind of speed as this does. Part of the reason this interests me is that it is uncharted territory - it's at least somewhat well established what it takes to survive at mach 3, but mach 4 is still somewhat of the unknown, at least as far as amateur rocketry is concerned.

I will say that I have done extensive simulation and engineering on this design, and I have been thinking over it since more than a year ago, so this isn't something just drawn up on a napkin one day. Do I think it has a good chance of surviving? Yes, and I am doing everything I can to increase those chances. The fins should have a substantial margin of safety in terms of flutter and absolute strength requirements, and as I said, I am coating all of the high heat surfaces in materials rated to more than 2000F, which should be higher than the peak stagnation temperature which the rocket experiences during boost. In addition, all of the structural joints and regions are made with 500F rated epoxy, so that any heat which soaks through the coating (or comes from the casing) is unable to damage or weaken the structure during coast. The rocket is designed with only one separation point, with the motor casing as the coupler, so it should be basically immune to coupler failure, and the separation point is more robust than most.

Despite all of this effort, it is absolutely an experimental launch, testing both techniques and flight conditions which are extremely uncommon in amateur rocketry. That's why I'm bringing it to Balls rather than, say, LDRS. To quote the Balls website:

BALLS 21 is a venue for projects that should NOT be flown publicly due to safety and legal restrictions. This may include, but is not limited to, LARGE rockets, complex staging or clustering, metal rockets, self designed and/or fabricated rocket motors and new technologies being developed or proven

I feel that this sums up my rocket nicely - it is an unusual rocket, being developed and proven for the first time. However, I do feel that a lot of time and thought has gone into this, and I have done my best to ensure that it will have the best possible chance of holding together during flight. If you have any specific concerns, please let me know - I would be glad to elaborate on how I plan to mitigate certain risks, or in the unlikely event that I haven't thought of a particular risk yet, I would much rather hear about it now than later.

Believe me, I understand your concern, and that is why I am doing my best to think of everything in advance, as well as sharing the design details before flight.
 
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I just want it to work, come back on it's parachute and you get your picture in Rockets Mag holding an unscathed rocket after the flight.
You are the one most familiar with the design, if you have issues of any kind address them.
 
Now that's a statement I can completely agree with. If I can come back after flight, holding a rocket with nothing more than a few scorchmarks from the speed, I'll be completely satisfied.

Now for more pictures. Sorry about the image quality on the garage shot - the lighting was terrible, and I didn't have a flash, so I was trying to handhold with an exposure time of 1/5 of a second. All things considered, I think it came out pretty well.

First though, the electronics. I believe I have things planned out, so I can start building the E-bay on Monday night:
IMG_9904 (1280x853).jpg

Next, the body tube in my fin alignment jig, with the first fin in the process of being attached. As stated before, I'm using Cotronics 500F epoxy for everything, in this case with a bit of chopped carbon and colloidal silica to strengthen things up a bit. I also cut a shallow crosshatch pattern into both the tube and the base of the fin with my dremel with a diamond cutoff wheel before gluing, so this should be an extremely strong joint, despite only being a surface mount.
IMG_9899 (1280x853).jpg

After I get all three fins on, I'll score the area a bit more with the dremel, and then add some fairly sizeable fillets. After that comes the decision on T2T - as I said, that choice is still a bit up in the air until I see how solid these seem with just the plain surface mount.
 
Can you discuss the type of airfame and how you think it will hold up to the stresses?
 
Agreed, that is why I wonder... if other parts are being built above normal hobby spec, are we sure the normal CF airframes are strong/rigid enough?
 
Agreed, that is why I wonder... if other parts are being built above normal hobby spec, are we sure the normal CF airframes are strong/rigid enough?

Not trying to start a fight here, but instead of continuing to ask questions regarding components, why don't you do some analysis of the flight dynamics/stresses versus materials used and testing of such and then make that contribution back here (or use it as your advantage if/when you decide to embark on such a build)?
 
Yes I was also wondering about the use of teflon?

There is significant information on Teflon use and testing results in NASA and DoD archives. From what I can discern (again only been researching this for a week+), Teflon tends to be used/specified to reduce friction/heating of the surfaces versus acting as an ablative/sacrificial layer for the craft.
 
As kevin said, it's ordinary cf from performance rocketry. I'm not too worried about its strength, since it will actually be shorter than the motor casing. As a result, the casing will act as a full length aluminum coupler, pretty much eliminating any chance of the tube buckling. It also should never have a very high heat load, since it will never be directly exposed to the airstream. Honestly, the tube is the one part of the rocket that doesn't terribly concern me.
 
Not trying to start a fight here, but instead of continuing to ask questions regarding components, why don't you do some analysis of the flight dynamics/stresses versus materials used and testing of such and then make that contribution back here (or use it as your advantage if/when you decide to embark on such a build)?

Not trying to start a fight eh? If you have to preface a comment with that, you may want to reevaluate the comment entirely.

The OP spent a page talking about the fins and how they were constructed, modified, tested etc. We now have a picture of the aiframe. I would love to hear more, from the person who knows 100x more about this project than anyone else, about the other parts of the rocket as they are revealed. Airframe is the next logical step as it is in the picture and since the fins are very strong, I wanted to know how confident he was in the airframe material and what kinds of concerns there are about heating and shreds, if any. The nosecone and fins have already been discussed in great detail.

Not trying to start a fight, but if you don't have anything to say about the rocket, don't post. That will keep us on track.

There is significant information on Teflon use and testing results in NASA and DoD archives. From what I can discern (again only been researching this for a week+), Teflon tends to be used/specified to reduce friction/heating of the surfaces versus acting as an ablative/sacrificial layer for the craft.

I was asking about teflon as shear pins due to the 300 deg. c or so tolerance.

CJ said:
As kevin said, it's ordinary cf from performance rocketry. I'm not too worried about its strength, since it will actually be shorter than the motor casing. As a result, the casing will act as a full length aluminum coupler, pretty much eliminating any chance of the tube buckling. It also should never have a very high heat load, since it will never be directly exposed to the airstream. Honestly, the tube is the one part of the rocket that doesn't terribly concern me.

Thanks! So the nosecone will rest against the top of the motor?
 
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Not trying to start a fight eh? If you have to preface a comment with that, you may want to reevaluate the comment entirely.

The OP spent a page talking about the fins and how they were constructed, modified, tested etc. We now have a picture of the aiframe. I would love to hear more, from the person who knows 100x more about this project than anyone else, about the other parts of the rocket as they are revealed. Airframe is the next logical step as it is in the picture and since the fins are very strong, I wanted to know how confident he was in the airframe material and what kinds of concerns there are about heating and shreds, if any. The nosecone and fins have already been discussed in great detail.

Not trying to start a fight, but if you don't have anything to say about the rocket, don't post. That will keep us on track.

Duuuuuuuude....Chillll OUTTTTTTTTTTTT. Typing more words than the first guy doesn't make your argument more valid or more eloquent.

In cjl we trust. His project, he's thought about it. I don't think anything we say is going to have him come to some revelation that he is doing it wrong. How about we start asking questions about his methods instead of doubting his knowledge and ability followed by imparting your own partial, untested knowledge.

I know nothing about Mach 4 stresses. I plan to learn from this project. LET ME LEARN!
 
Next, the body tube in my fin alignment jig, with the first fin in the process of being attached. As stated before, I'm using Cotronics 500F epoxy for everything, in this case with a bit of chopped carbon and colloidal silica to strengthen things up a bit. I also cut a shallow crosshatch pattern into both the tube and the base of the fin with my dremel with a diamond cutoff wheel before gluing, so this should be an extremely strong joint, despite only being a surface mount.
View attachment 94679

Since you fins are tapered and airfoiled, how does the jig ensure alignment?
This jig appears to be a MUST HAVE for those of us who use plate for fins. Tapered fins seems like you would still have issues alligning with the axis of the rocket.
 
If you look closely there appears to be some blue material around the jig. Perhaps he built the fins back up with tape just for this jig?
 
Duuuuuuuude....Chillll OUTTTTTTTTTTTT. T How about we start asking questions about his methods instead of doubting his knowledge and ability followed by imparting your own partial, untested knowledge.

I asked a question about the airframe above. I am not doubting this guys knowledge at all. He answered my question succinctly, though I had a followup. Once more pics come out it will be clear anyway.

Without your dude chill out post, and the post telling me to do my own research, and the PM telling me that by asking questions in the forum I am embarrassing myself... We would still be on track. Don't egg me on and tell me to chill out at the same time. Actually, don't refer to me at all. Stick to the topic and move on. Time and again someone new has to chime in and keep the argument going.

Does that all make sense?
 
I've asked nicely, now I'm going to be blunt

Any more sniping or baiting in this thread, OR responding to it, and you get an infraction. For each incident. Don't bother trying the "he started it crap" as it will get you nowhere

I will unlock this thread in a couple hours
 
eggplant said:
If you look closely there appears to be some blue material around the jig. Perhaps he built the fins back up with tape just for this jig?

That's pretty much exactly correct - as you guessed, the biconvex airfoil made it somewhat more difficult to align the find than usual, so I had to get somewhat inventive.
 
troj said:
I've asked nicely, now I'm going to be blunt

Any more sniping or baiting in this thread, OR responding to it, and you get an infraction. For each incident. Don't bother trying the "he started it crap" as it will get you nowhere

I will unlock this thread in a couple hours

Thanks Kevin. This is one case when the skillet of harsh discipline was definitely necessary, and hopefully effective.
 
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That's pretty much exactly correct - as you guessed, the biconvex airfoil made it somewhat more difficult to align the find than usual, so I had to get somewhat inventive.

So is that a hi-tech shop towl..? I love the jig...
 
Why not use wood for the nose cone. Seal with alumina slurry and paint with engine paint, some of which are good to 1000 deg F.

Wood works reasonably well for HPR rockets. Wood is RF friendly, easy to machine, and lightweight. I like Cedar with 1/2 inch wall thickness and a metal tip. As a matter of coincidence Im planning to fly a rocket with a wooden nose cone at Balls this year.

Im not sure how well wood works in an extreme project, however. I can envision scenarios where it might be okay. I've made motors with a hardwood nozzle. The nozzle chars and erodes, but it is not as bad as you might think.

-->MCS


.
 
An eroding nozzle would work well with a progressive burn motor, right?
 
I've asked nicely, now I'm going to be blunt

Any more sniping or baiting in this thread, OR responding to it, and you get an infraction. For each incident. Don't bother trying the "he started it crap" as it will get you nowhere

I will unlock this thread in a couple hours

Dern it. I was just sayin’ to my wife she should stop watchin’ the Kardashieuns, power up the li’l rascal and drive across the doublewide over here to the computer to watch dem smarty pants, wanna be rocket scientists duke it out. No wonder my real rocket scientist friend a workin’ up there in Waterton Canyon thinks the Hi Po folks are a little crazy. Golly, now I’m a snipin’ and a baitin’, better get back on over to the Beginners forum and see if there is anythin’ goin’ on about epoxy vs. wood glue, CATO, or motor vs. injun.
 
Wood works reasonably well for HPR rockets. Wood is RF friendly, easy to machine, and lightweight. I like Cedar with 1/2 inch wall thickness and a metal tip. As a matter of coincidence Im planning to fly a rocket with a wooden nose cone at Balls this year.

Im not sure how well wood works in an extreme project, however. I can envision scenarios where it might be okay. I've made motors with a hardwood nozzle. The nozzle chars and erodes, but it is not as bad as you might think.

-->MCS.

We used wood nose comes back in the 90s. With a Kosdon M3700 the wood will come apart and peel back. If the wood is wrapped with fiberglass tow it will protect it. The air gets in the end grain.
Mark
 
Daddyisabar said:
Dern it. I was just sayin’ to my wife she should stop watchin’ the Kardashieuns, power up the li’l rascal and drive across the doublewide over here to the computer to watch dem smarty pants, wanna be rocket scientists duke it out. No wonder my real rocket scientist friend a workin’ up there in Waterton Canyon thinks the Hi Po folks are a little crazy. Golly, now I’m a snipin’ and a baitin’, better get back on over to the Beginners forum and see if there is anythin’ goin’ on about epoxy vs. wood glue, CATO, or motor vs. injun.

If you have something to say that if on topic, feel free to share. Otherwise, could you try not to derail the thread?

Please?
 
My recollection is that some Russian rockets used specifically oak for nosecones. But, they did a fair bit of quality checking on the oak. Oak is a pretty tough wood and not brittle like cedar. It is quite a bit stronger as well. My understanding is it chars, and the char layer protects the underlying wood.

I do not recall where I ran across this information. Sorry.

Gerald
 
Depending on the sim you believe, as well as a few parameters that aren't quite nailed down yet, it's expected to go anywhere from 90,000 to upwards of 130,000 feet if it boosts straight and holds together, with a top speed of mach 4.2, so it should soundly take the N record if it actually holds together, as well as having a shot at the Carmack prize if it is still unclaimed as of BALLS this year.

I did not see your posting on the Arocket list to register your intent to compete for the Carmack 100K prize, 30 days in advance.
 
Currently, the plan is to use automotive header paint rated for 1500F, which should hopefully give the entire rocket an additional protective coat against the extreme temperatures expected during flight.

Has anyone actually found a paint that doesn't require a high temp post cure to achieve the advertised temperature rating? For example, this is the post cure schedule for VHT header paint:

VHT FlameProof coatings will air dry in 15 to 30 minutes and if handled with reasonable care, may be put to immediate use. Heat curing method for maximum resistance to solvents, salt spray, humidity, thermal shock and heat:

15 minutes at 250°F
30 minutes at 600°F
1 hour at 800°F
30 minutes at 1,000°F
 
Yes, one option is BBQ paint (1200 degree) which I used on this build for the nose and fins. I did notice recently that Rustoleum now has a high-temp primer too (2000 degree) which can be found with their automotive paints. There also may be other top coat choices of automotive enamels now offered by Rustoleum that fit the bill (haven't looked recently).

012 (960x1280).jpg

Has anyone actually found a paint that doesn't require a high temp post cure to achieve the advertised temperature rating? For example, this is the post cure schedule for VHT header paint:

VHT FlameProof coatings will air dry in 15 to 30 minutes and if handled with reasonable care, may be put to immediate use. Heat curing method for maximum resistance to solvents, salt spray, humidity, thermal shock and heat:

15 minutes at 250°F
30 minutes at 600°F
1 hour at 800°F
30 minutes at 1,000°F
 
Thanks Tim, I'll have to look into that line of Rustoleum. Every time I see some paint with bold claims like 'Works on the surface of the sun!', it always has some highly impractical post cure details in the fine print on the back.
 
Yes, one option is BBQ paint (1200 degree) which I used on this build for the nose and fins. I did notice recently that Rustoleum now has a high-temp primer too (2000 degree) which can be found with their automotive paints. There also may be other top coat choices of automotive enamels now offered by Rustoleum that fit the bill (haven't looked recently).

View attachment 94780

................................................CORRECTION................................CORRECTION..................................
OOOPS NOT THE STUFF I USED....I GOT THE SAME BRAND BUT HIGH TEMP HEADER EXHAUST PAINT! [WHITE]
.............................................................................................................................................................

That's the stuff I used on my SpaceCowboy. Being that the finish coat is flat, I saw no need for primer.

The old molded fiberglass cone blistered in 2 places but the paint did not. There was some funny looking radial patterns on the fins from high temp, but once again the paint did not burn nor blister.

I just put 3 light coats on, polished with 400 down to barely seeing glass in some areas, then 1 more good heavy coat & a light sanding/polish with 600. [all were wet sanded].

This baby was slicker than snot, way smoother than any high gloss I've ever seen.

I think If I were doing the REALLY extreme I would put several really heavy finish coats on the NC and forward fin edges so prolonged heating may cause the paint to act as an insulator/ablative coating.
 
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