Shifty CJ builds the ShapeShifter JR. ....... looong overdue!

[blackjack2564]

Although I built this months ago, several have requested a build on it, so here ya are.

One of Wildmans newest additions to his Jr. size fleet is the ShapeShifter, one of the winners in his design contest. This one is by Gary T. [great job Gary, she's a real looker!]

The Jr's are built around a 54mm spiral wound G-12 airframe with 38 mm motor mounts. It comes with a spiral wound Von Karmon NC.
Fincan is long enough to fly the longest commercial loads going right now.

They can be flown dual deploy or motor eject.
It can easily support Level-1 or Level -2 certs.

Sells for 125.00
Nice all glass kit, do it all rocket for the money.

[blackjack2564]

First thing, take all the parts to sink/tub & wash all the machining dust off/inside the parts with water & dry. You don't want this itchy stuff getting on you!

If fins have tape glue residue on them, WD-40, lacquer thinner, Goof-off, denatured alcohol will easily remove the residue.

Line up ALL the bulkplates [BP's] and sand ONE side, only of each.
Sand both centering rings on both sides.
Sand entire Motor Mount tube.

All sanding will be done with heavy 60-80 grit where parts to be glued, come into contact with one another.

Using a stick with sandpaper taped to it, reach inside airframe and sand the circumference where the forward CR will be glued [just ahead of front of slots] Sand rear also, that can easily be done by hand.

[Windeavor]

You beat me to it! Building a ShapeShifter myself right now.

[blackjack2564]

Assemble mm tube & Cr's and slide into airframe for dry fit. Sand if needed to fit.

Sand fuzzies out of all slots and dry fit fins as you go. Numbering fins and slots will aid later when time to glue.

Draw a line on both sides of each fin while keeping tight to mm tube.

After removing fin, draw line on MM tube through the slot. This is for external fitting of the fins on MM assembly later.[if you are using the injected fillet method.]

[cwbullet]

CJ,

Subscribed. I really like the final result and can't wait to follow the thread to it.

[blackjack2564]

Remove fin & should look like below. This is line to tell ya fin is tight to mm tube when you are gluing.


Now measure up fin from that line 1/2in. and draw 2nd line.
This should be where top of external fillets will go.
Sand both sides of all fins to this upper line.

When finished re-mark lower line for later use. Fins should look like this below.

Now all is sanded, fitted & ready for assembly for your fincan.

[blackjack2564]

If using an Aero-Pac retainer, glue it on now. Let cure.

Slide Cr on to rear of MM tube on top of A-Pac .
If not using one, tack centering ring with CA 1/4in. from rear.


While that's curing, notch front CR just enough to fit shock cord through.


Stuff majority of Kevlar cord into MM, with just enough tail hanging out to fit and glue to MM tube. Don't tack the front yet....see next step.

Make sure Kevlar and notched CR are BETWEEN 2 of the fin lines drawn on MM tube! Ya don't want it in the way of a fin when gluing.

[blackjack2564]

Stand MM on end.

You may need extra pair of hand for this if your Cr is loose.

Place fin against mm tube where slot lines were drawn.

Push down on top CR to hold them snugly in place & tack the CR on. [with OUT gluing fins on too LOL]


When cured, remove fins from assembly and place MM in fincan. Check fit with fins installed. Adjust if needed. When satisfied with dry fit remove fins and MM assembly.


Encapsulate the Kevlar recovery cord with epoxy and put a nice fillet on top of CR also.
Do not get any glue where it might interfere with fin installation. [insides of CR]
.................................................. .................................................. ................................

This precise fitting is all being done so when it is time to inject the internal fillet, there is no leaking of epoxy under fin or in back & front where fin contacts the centering rings. You are making a damn with each fin to keep fillet in place.

.................................................. .................................................. ................................

[geodehunter]

Subscribed, This is the thread that I have been waiting for. This rocket will be my next build.

[troj]

'tis indeed a neat looking kit, and the vinyl makes it look great!

BTW, I think the thread title should've been "Shifty CJ Builds A Shape".

-Kevin

[blackjack2564]

'tis indeed a neat looking kit, and the vinyl makes it look great!

BTW, I think the thread title should've been "Shifty CJ Builds A Shape".

-Kevin

Go ahead & change it, if it will get a chuckle out of you!

By the way, can I change the title or can that only be done by a moderator?

I was looking but didn't see how.

PS getting all excited 'bout Airfest....gonna be a REALLY fun launch. I am so looking forward to it!

[troj]

Go ahead & change it, if it will get a chuckle out of you!

By the way, can I change the title or can that only be done by a moderator?

I think you can do it, too; I just can't tell you for sure what options you have. I can edit it for you, if you'd like -- just tell me exactly what you want it to so.

PS getting all excited 'bout Airfest....gonna be a REALLY fun launch. I am so looking forward to it!

Agreed! But then, it's always a good time! Between the site and the folks who come, it's hard to beat!

-Kevin

[Pantherjon]

PS getting all excited 'bout Airfest....gonna be a REALLY fun launch. I am so looking forward to it!

Soooo, you're going to AirFest and not Freedom Launch?...Cool build..

[blackjack2564]

Soooo, you're going to AirFest and not Freedom Launch?...Cool build..

Well unless I figure out how to be 2 places at once. Hate to miss FL & all "the usual suspects" but I REALLY want to see the 2 Saturns fly!


Kevin, figured it out....have to go back to first post to change title. Tried it here, only changed it here.

[UPscaler]

Well unless I figure out how to be 2 places at once. Hate to miss FL & all "the usual suspects" but I REALLY want to see the 2 Saturns fly!
.

Amen to that! I'd go just to watch if we didn't have anything to fly!

Cool rocket! Looks awesome, as usual!

Braden

[cwbullet]

CJ,

You are not going to be at Freedom Launch? Bridgett has a stethoscope for you to hear your altimeters.
I picked one up for you.

[GaryT]

Per usual another incredible build thread by Crazy Jim, It doesn't get more in depth than this.

Needless to say I'm a bit partial to the Wildman Shape Shifter, Its a great kit, An easy build and an awesome flier, For reference here are a few stats on my finished Shape Shifter so you can get an idea of what yours will do.

Weight all loaded up NO motor - 4.6lbs
CP -Ratio between RockSim & Barrowman - 44.7"
Cd - .75
Rocksim File (I didn't use the switch band) Wildman Shape Shifter 2.2.rkt

Flight Stats:
CTI I242WH 4G - 4090'
CTI J270G 5G - 4661'



For more info click here:

[blackjack2564]

Thanks for the ShapeShifter info Gary!

To inject internal fillets drill holes close enough to slots that when the externals are pulled, they cover the holes.

If using thicker epoxy drill 3 sets of holes on each side of all slots as shown.
About an inch in from each end of slot, & one in the center.

If using a thin epoxy, ya can get by with 2 holes spaced equally on the slot. [not shown]
This is to allow the epoxy to self level, once injected.

You can also build the standard method of just tacking fins in place & doing external fillets. We will concentrate on the injected way here, for I believe it gives a stronger joint & isn't that hard to do, especially on larger projects.

I now wait till after I have done all my dry fitting to drill the holes. It's easier to fit first as the drilling process leaves rough edges that can catch the CR's as they are slid into place.

Use a bit size large enough to allow the syringe tip to easily enter the hole. I use a 3/16 bit.
After drilling all holes, use sandpaper on a stick to reach inside and sand off all fuzzies & splinters.
Then sand 3/4in on each side of slots for external fillet adhesion.

[blackjack2564]

Insert the MM assembly into fincan & dry fit your fins.
Make sure you have the Kevlar shockcord BETWEEN 2 slots so it doesn't interfere with fin installation.

Remove fins leave MM assembly in.

Ready to tack fins on.
Get out your favorite fin alignment guide or prepare to eyeball fins.

[blackjack2564]

Mix some 5-10-etc minute epoxy or JB Weld to tack fins on.

Butter the edge of fin and place into corresponding numbered slot.[if ya remember to # your slots & fins!]

Remember the line drawn on the fin? This is where it comes into play.
When inserting fin & pushing into position, [gently ya don't want to mush all the glue out from under it], the line should be flush with airframe, if NOT the fin is NOT down all the way to MM tube. There will be a gap and when you inject glue will run all over the place internally.


Repeat for other fins and align them. When checking on them as they cure, that line will tell you if they are slipping out of position. If so push fin back tight to MM tube.

Set aside to cure.

Yes..... I build on the dining room table......I have a VERY understanding other half!

[blackjack2564]

There is a lot of G-10 in these fins, they are very large with a long root edge. Plenty of area to bond to, so I don't need/want large fillets inside OR out. Just adds needed weight.

I will use a 3/4 inch dowel/pvc pipe to pull my external fillets.

Since I inject the internal set, then immediately do the externals [ I only wait till the epoxy gels]
Must mark for taping the externals BEFORE I do any injecting.

I get it all prepped so once I start , I go till finished. Inject a set, do externals......rotate, do 2nd set, do externals......etc. I can do all in a day this way.

If it's your first time, you might just want to take your time and do all the internal stuff first, then the external OR just be a WILDMAN and go for it like me!

Anyhow enough blah..blah ..blah. I came up with a real nice way to get PERFECT fillets every time, even for a beginner!

Take you dowel/PVC and using a Magic marker coat about 1/3 of the edge.
Rub that edge quickly[while still wet] back & forth in the V-groove of airframe & fin.
It will leave a nice line you can use to place your tape. Make take several passes and coats on tool till ya get the hang of it BUT:

You now have a perfect line to tape to and little if no sanding to do when fillets are pulled. All the excess glue will be on tape and easily removed with it!

PS if you noticed the killer bevels on the fins & wondered how I did it? I used a electric kitchen knife sharpener and alot of patience plus a light touch! Then finished it off by hand-sanding smooth.

[troj]

PS if you noticed the killer bevels on the fins & wondered how I did it? I used a electric kitchen knife sharpener and alot of patience plus a light touch! Then finished it off by hand-sanding smooth.

Now that's a neat trick!

And ya wonder why I always make sure I read your builds? Those little tidbits like that!

-Kevin

[blackjack2564]

JUST IN CASE.........

....... you may get some leakage under/around fins.....

Tape the joint on fin/tube to seal it.
This will be the fin at the bottom of your Y when injecting the top 2.

It will keep glue inside of airframe instead of running down & out the bottom fin slots and all over floor!
Bonus is if does leak ya end up with internal fin/airframe fillet.

Set fincan on LEVEL tabletop or rocket rack to proceed. Ya want the glue to level out inside.

[blackjack2564]

Oldtimers have seen this countless times, but for the beginner's here ya go...........foolproof internal fillets.


If ya have some chopped carbon add it to the epoxy for an even stronger bond. If not this rocket is small enough you will be fine.

Mix 10ml of epoxy. 5 will be used for each fillet.
Add a dime size amount of chopped carbon. A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAY. Too much and it will clog the syringe!

Have tip cut at angle to aid in inserting into holes.

Stir carbon at least 2 minutes, first clockwise, then counterclockwise, several times, to break up the fibers.

It will look like black/grey goo when ready. Resist the temptation to add more. More is NOT always better or ya'll find out the hard-way. [like many of you have LOL]

[blackjack2564]

Fill syringe with 5ml of glue and evenly divide it between the holes on 1 fin when you inject. 5mm total on 1 fin.....5 on the other. A tad more or less won't hurt.

DO IT SLOWLY and make sure the tip is not hitting the motor mount tube. There is only around 3/8in clearance from airframe to MM. Push it in too far or inject too fast, it will back-splash all over the place rather than flowing out nice and evenly.

Adding to much epoxy, and it will flow over the top of the front tip of fin and drip down all over the place. It should fill just enough to start plugging the holes and seal them. [If ya drilled them to spec. in the right place]


Pics from another build, but ya get the idea.

These are big fins with long roots, ya want to keep the weight down.... no giant internal fillets. Ya don't want to build a tank.

[jsargevt]

These are big fins with long roots, ya want to keep the weight down.... no giant internal fillets. Ya don't want to build a tank.

Learned that one on the Warrior build. Trust that it will flow nicely, don't add more!

[o1d_dude]

Injected fillets was what I needed to see. Have all the components but was unsure of how to proceed.

With this thread, I don't need to re-invent the wheel and probably naming it "fire".

[blackjack2564]

I'm going to wait till the epoxy just gells then do my externals. Saves time and tape. If you are not comfortable with this, do all injecting first, then the externals.

I will use a 3/4 in. PVC/dowel plenty big for these fins, I want small fillets.[same one you used to mark for tape lines]
With the injected internals there is no need for big honk'n ones outside. I can't seem to beat that into beginners heads.

MO AIN'T ALWAYS BETTER!

Mix West 406 silica [which also increases bonding strength] into epoxy till ya get thick peanut butter consistency. 12-15ml should do it. Keep track of first set, so ya know how much to mix for others. AND write it down in your log for future reference.

Spread evenly into groove with mixing stick. Check as ya go with pulling tool, so ya don't overfill and make a mess! If ya get too much on the tape and ya come up short, just scrape it off tape and use to fill the groove. If ya screw it up bad....no worries...just scrape it out, re-fill and try again.

Start pull from one end and with a smooth even pressure pull out the fillet.

Let it set a few minutes and remove the tape by pulling at a 45 angle like shown. Up and away from glue so ya get a nice clean edge.

All the excess will be on tape & if ya did it right hardly any sanding.

If ya wait till it cures, it can be very difficult to remove the tape from hardened epoxy.

Continue on & finish other 2 fin sets.


PS mine look red because after 6months/year hardener ages and turns red. Still good, has no effect on strength or bonding. I've had glue several years old & it's OK, as per West website.

And I clean out my syringes with Denatured Alcohol for re-use.

[blackjack2564]

Nice thing about glass, ya can see inside to verify how they come out!

Don't worry if there are blobs of fibers, the glue will seep through and level out between them.

The more of this ya do......the better ya get at it.

I even use this technique on cardboard rockets with wood fins. No more slotting the tube all the way, building the fins to motor mount and sliding the assembly back together.
Then having to deal with getting the airframe back into place. Ya end up with a stronger UN-adulterated fincan.


Pic from another build.

[geodehunter]

What did you use for recovery on your Shape Shifter?