Home made terminal blocks

[cwbullet]

Bear is ok. I prefer deer if we are going wild. Buffalo or beef if now.

Back on topic - are you goign to use brass or steel screws?

I would actually consider using just a threaded rods. I will try them and report back.

[BEAR]

I like grass fed beef, buffalo is expensive, until I get a good source or raise my own. We do get a good amount of venison, elk, antelope, and some moose too.

I figured I would probably use brass as my first choice and then use stainless steel. I thought of using a screw because when I thread it through the firewall, the head will help me screw it in, and if I remove it later if for some reason, and, they come in usable lengths already, so that I do not have to cut them to length. ON the other hand, the head may get in the way, and the all thread will work better. You can also buy all thread in short lengths at ACE, even though I bought stainless steel 3/8" all thread in 36" length Friday at CD Fastener for less than I could buy galvanized steel in 36" lengths at ACE. For what it is worth, CD Fastener is only in Fort Collins, but any fair sized city or town is liable to have a fastener company that can probably help people out. I may also add some washers in my plan.

[AlphaHybrids]

You could also use brass set screws with a hex head to have something to be able to screw into.

Edward

[BEAR]

Edward, I presume you mean a set screw that will accept an Allen wrench in the head to turn it. I think that is an even better idea. You can get them in 3/4" and 1" or longer lengths. That would work great!!! I imagine I would thread the bulkhead, screw it in place, After I have drilled a couple of .060" dia. holes perpendicular to the main axis, and then screw on some nuts and washers.

[AlphaHybrids]

Yes, that is what I meant, my word bag was just not functioning at the moment. If you use brass components, you could solder a nut onto it so that you have a stop from the same side as the allen wrench side. Then it will be easier to tighten down.

Edward

[BEAR]

Good idea. I may try that tonight. Thanks Edward.

[BEAR]

You could also use brass set screws with a hex head to have something to be able to screw into.

Edward

I made a terminal tonight using a set screw, drilling holes in the side for the wires to go through and using nuts and washers to secure it. I envisioned that I would thread the bulkhead/firewall with 10-24 thds, screw set screw in until it was equi-distance on both sides of the firewall, then screw a nut down on both sides to make sure it is secure, then add a washer, insert the wires, another washer, a lock washer, and then a nut to secure it. You can see in one of the photos this terminal assembly with everything on one half and without hardware on the other side. The finished product is made of stainless steel. I could not easily find brass set screws 1 1/4" long. So my brass ones that I started this thread with are .160" in diameter and .750" long versus .436" in diameter (the washer diameter, or .416 with just the nut diameter) and 1.250" long. This latest method I believe is two big and bulky, (not counting the added weight, if I were to place them in 8 places for redundant dual deploy); for what I want and I am going back to my original unit. Shorter and smaller are better to me at this time. You can see in the attached photos size comparisons and the simplicity differences. Let me know what you think and maybe it will inspire something else or bring us to a new decison.

[AlphaHybrids]

Sometimes it is just easiest to run the wires through the bulkhead on projects. On my L3 I did that. I drilled two holes 1/4" from my center 1/4" all thread in the middle. Then I used a 2" fender washer and 2" neoprene washer to seal it. You run the wires through, then you put the neoprene washer on, then the fender washer and I used an eyenut so I tightened that down. I *never* had any gas leakage and my drogue compartment was completely full. 4" full of shock cord and parachute with probably 10% empty volume. On projects I want to fly faster I use terminals like this - that way I don't have to open up the electronics bay again to re-wire. For stuff I'll only fly once a day I'll generally use the wires and washers method.

Edward

[BEAR]

I understand. One of my TAP's did not like me using the method you have described, and I did not like any off the shelf terminals that I saw, which led me to my brass ones that started this thread. With the brass terminals, I am having trouble imagining running the wires thru the bulkhead being easier. With the homemade terminal blocks, the electronics bay does not need to be opened and a small screwdriver allows me to replace ignitor wires pretty easily. And, it is completely sealed. On the other hand I could be completely wrong and have no idea what I am talking about. I should find out in September if we get to fly. Are you doing the rain dance?