Waterslide Decals.......what to do after?

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Green Jello

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I looked around and found different opinions on this. So what's the consensus.....clear lacquer over them or not? Something else?
 
Be sure to test paint/clearcoat compatibility on a piece if scrap first, though. Sometimes a clear coat incompatible with your paint will cause lifting and wrinkling, which are very, very bad and often result in you having to sand everything, including the decals, off the rocket and start over. Metallic paints especially don't get along well with clearcoats; it often causes the metal to separate from the paint.
Fortunately, none of this has never happened to me, because I always check for compatibility. I have used Rustoleum high gloss clearcoat with good results. :2:
 
Most rattlecan clears contain 0% UV inhibitors, put bluntly they yellow pretty quickly with exposure to any UV soruce inside or out. With only a couple exceptions ALL clear coats become brittle within months of there application. general handling, transport bumps and landing can & do cause these clear coats to chip and crack. When a chip flies off it takes with it the underlying decal.
with the possible exception of Krylon #1305 UV resistant Gloss Clear and Krylon #1307 UV Matte Clear I do not recommend any rattlecan clear coatings.

A much better and easily renewable "protective" after decal clear coat is Pledge with Future acrylic floor polymer. it can be mopped, brushed or air brushed on (I use a throw away polybrush) dries to a very high gloss finish that withstands transport and handling very well. If scratch or dinged can be reapplied without fear of buildup and NEVER Yellows.
 
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