Paint is the DEVIL!

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thobin

thobin

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I consider myself an old hand at paint, 95% or so of the paint I shoot out of a can comes off with out a hitch. I have a set of rules that I follow to keep what little hair I have left from getting pulled out. But some times the bear just GETS YOU! :cry:

My old true and tested procedures could not help me this time. I went to remove the masking tape from my scratch build and it peeled the paint off the nose cone like a glove ????
I prepped it the same way I always do. AND AND my plastic spot filler fell out too! Not sure what the LOC cone is made of but it is repelling all attempts to be covered!?!? :rant:The last LOC cone I painted looks as good as the day I painted it and that was 7 or 8 years ago. Oh well lets see what the Krylon Fusion paint will do.

TA
 
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I have yet to have any luck with plastic nosecones. Whatever the last coat you use may happen to be, it proceeds to crinkle up everything that came before it. It's balsa or nothing for me.

But yes, paint is the devil.
 
I know who will reply here in just a second...
 
thobin said:
Paint is the DEVIL!
Click to expand...
Yes, yes it is.
However, I have yet to experience any problems with painting plastic nose cones. I always paint the nose cone all one color, though, so I don't need to put masking tape on it.
Eggplant, if we're thinking of the same person, I'm surprised he hasn't already.
 
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I have had good luck using Valspar plastic primer, then Valspar white primer, then Valspar colors.
I did recently deviate from my routine with much crazing and crakking as the result. Do Not put Rusto primer-filler over Valsper plastic primer.
 
Ya I normally don't mask nose cones, but still it peeled off like it had made no attempt to stick. I have some old aerotech nosecones you couldn't chisel the paint off. And my plastic putty that is made to fill plastic that I use on all my Estes nosecones peeled off with the paint, stuck great to the paint. Hummm maybe paint isn't the Devil here I may have been mistaken. I think this nosecone may be made of anti matter!? :confused2:



TA
 
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Did you wash the nose cone first? It may have had a coating of mold release film on it...... paint won't stick to it either. I learned to wash my nosecones in hot soapy water and buff it with paper towels before I even think of painting them.
 
neond7 said:
Did you wash the nose cone first? It may have had a coating of mold release film on it...... paint won't stick to it either. I learned to wash my nosecones in hot soapy water and buff it with paper towels before I even think of painting them.
Click to expand...

Ya thats part of my routine. Im sure its the paint and the plastic that are incompatable Im switching paint.

TA
 
1) clean NC with acetone, 2) sand with 150 grit, 3) clean with soap/water, 4) let dry thoroughly (can be accelerated with more acetone wipe or denatured alcohol), 5) spray with Duplicolor adhesion promotor, 6) within 10 minutes spray first coat of filler-primer (Rustoleum or Duplicolor brand), 7) repeat filler-primer, putty application, sanding multiple times until finish level is achieved (typically 5 or 6 rounds), 8) apply primer-sealer (Rustoleum or Duplicolor brand), 9) let cure one week, 10) apply base coat of flat white primer (Rustoleum 2X), 11) let dry 48 hours, 12) apply top coat of choice.
 
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thobin said:
Paint is the DEVIL!
Click to expand...

Are you related to the the waterboy?

I have had off and on similar results. I do not know the cause. I have noticed it increases if I clean the rocket with rubbing alcohol and in high heat/humidity.
 
Sorry guys, I was in bed when this was posted! I'm with ya on the paint troubles, TA. Several times, when I thought I had it all figured out, a totally new problem popped up. I too have had paint peel off LOC nose cones, and had the paint crack. These are my Minie Magg and Hyperloc 835 nose cones. I ended up repainting the Magg cone and using vinyl stars. The Hyperloc cone I sanded and repainted. If you look close you can still see the cracks under the black paint, but it looks okay on the pad. By the way, I've had the most cracking problems with Rustoleum gray automotive primer, so I stay away from it now. I've had the best luck overall using Rusto 2X paints and primer exclusively, but I still have problems.

star2.jpg

star4.jpg

paint5.jpg

paint6.jpg

paint9.jpg
 
qquake2k said:
Rustoleum gray automotive primer.
Click to expand...

I will have to check if I used this on my rockets that cracked and pealed. I noticed a few cans on my shelf. It may have been a part of my problem also.
 
cwbullet said:
I will have to check if I used this on my rockets that cracked and pealed. I noticed a few cans on my shelf. It may have been a part of my problem also.
Click to expand...

I never was able to figure out what caused it. I even contacted Rustoleum, and they were no help. It's happened several times to me, though, so I don't use it. The only thing I can figure is that there's some sort of incompatibility with the auto primer and the 2X paint.
 
qquake2k said:
I never was able to figure out what caused it. I even contacted Rustoleum, and they were no help. It's happened several times to me, though, so I don't use it. The only thing I can figure is that there's some sort of incompatibility with the auto primer and the 2X paint.
Click to expand...

I too have had problems with the Rustoleum automotive primer, especially the white. I do though regularly use Rustoleum filler-primer and primer-sealer usually found in the Walmart automotive section (but not specifically labeled "Automobile Primer").
 
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I just looked at one of my rockets and indeed it was rustoleum auto primer.
 
Denatured alcohol is what I use. I just never had a problem like this with paint I normaly use. Like i said I have a few old aerotech cones you couldnt chisel the paint off, And it was done with the same paint. Im going to give the Rustoleum plastic primer a try.

TA
 
I had good luck with Testors Spray Enamel for my first MPR build (AT Initiator). As shown in the pic, I used flat black for the nose cone and fins. I started by washing the nose cone in soap/water and then filling all of the grooves and imperfections with Squadron 10 White putty. I then sanded until smooth. For paint, I first applied a coat of Testors Enamel flat grey primer. I let dry and then lightly sanded, after which the second primer coat was applied. I let the primer dry for a few days then applied the first coat of flat black. The first coat was not enough to completely cover the primer, so I waited a few days and applied a second coat. The pic shows the end result. So far, I have not seen any cracking/wrinkling. That being said, the rocket has not yet been subjected to the stresses of a launch, so we will see how it holds up over time. nose1r.jpg
 
qquake2k said:
Sorry guys, I was in bed when this was posted! I'm with ya on the paint troubles, TA. Several times, when I thought I had it all figured out, a totally new problem popped up. I too have had paint peel off LOC nose cones, and had the paint crack. These are my Minie Magg and Hyperloc 835 nose cones. I ended up repainting the Magg cone and using vinyl stars. The Hyperloc cone I sanded and repainted. If you look close you can still see the cracks under the black paint, but it looks okay on the pad. By the way, I've had the most cracking problems with Rustoleum gray automotive primer, so I stay away from it now. I've had the best luck overall using Rusto 2X paints and primer exclusively, but I still have problems.
Click to expand...
There he is! I have actually had pretty good luck with paint so far...
 
The paint is not what is bad in my case, i'm sure its just incompatable with the plastic used in the nosecone.

Up untill now I have had nothing but good results with it. I just checked the last 2 rockets I painted A scratch build and an Estes Leviathan and both have a good strong bond. Has anyone tried the Krylon Fusion pastic paint? I was going to give it a shot tonight.

TA
 
It's all in the surface prep. Clean or wash with whatever you like - I rarely bother - but most importantly sand the plastic nosecone with the roughest sand paper you can find.

I have used grits as coarse as 36 from an old sanding belt. Sand until you raise 'hair' and then stop. Do NOT remove the hair as it will be the anchor for your primer.

I use Rusto plastic primer and I follow the advisory that maximum bondind/adhesion occurs at about 7 days after application.

I then apply a coat of ordinary white Rusto primer and let it cure for a couple of days.

I then LIGHTLY sand the primer. If hair still shows through, I apply another coat of the Rusto white primer. Usually no more than two coats of the white primer is necessary.

At this point I apply color. After a week or so I clear coat with Rusto Crystal Clear Enamel.

My nosecones look like glass.
 
I just finished spraying my LOC IV NC and it did great, I did very little prep work, didn't even prime it which I normally do, I did use Testors black enamel, but I had a couple of cans sitting around and figured I would go ahead and use that. I have been using Rustoleum for all of them except for airbrush projects.

Besides using expensive paint, been lucky so far I guess...
 
o1d_dude said:
It's all in the surface prep. Clean or wash with whatever you like - I rarely bother - but most importantly sand the plastic nosecone with the roughest sand paper you can find.

I have used grits as coarse as 36 from an old sanding belt. Sand until you raise 'hair' and then stop. Do NOT remove the hair as it will be the anchor for your primer.

I use Rusto plastic primer and I follow the advisory that maximum bondind/adhesion occurs at about 7 days after application.

I then apply a coat of ordinary white Rusto primer and let it cure for a couple of days.

I then LIGHTLY sand the primer. If hair still shows through, I apply another coat of the Rusto white primer. Usually no more than two coats of the white primer is necessary.

At this point I apply color. After a week or so I clear coat with Rusto Crystal Clear Enamel.

My nosecones look like glass.
Click to expand...


dude you should post some pictures. I'm sure everyone would like to see some and it would add to the thread. Pictures are worth a 1000 words. :D
 
That does sound like a good plan, have some rusto crystal clear, might just give that a try!!
 
o1d_dude said:
It's all in the surface prep. Clean or wash with whatever you like - I rarely bother - but most importantly sand the plastic nosecone with the roughest sand paper you can find.

I have used grits as coarse as 36 from an old sanding belt. Sand until you raise 'hair' and then stop. Do NOT remove the hair as it will be the anchor for your primer.

I use Rusto plastic primer and I follow the advisory that maximum bondind/adhesion occurs at about 7 days after application.

I then apply a coat of ordinary white Rusto primer and let it cure for a couple of days.

I then LIGHTLY sand the primer. If hair still shows through, I apply another coat of the Rusto white primer. Usually no more than two coats of the white primer is necessary.

At this point I apply color. After a week or so I clear coat with Rusto Crystal Clear Enamel.

My nosecones look like glass.
Click to expand...

o1d_dude is a paint pimp! You really should see his paint jobs in person. I wish I had his skillz and his patience...
 

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