Best LP adhesive?

[Tarasdad]

I built my Big Bertha yesterday using nothing but Titebond II and can't be more pleased with the results. All joints are as solid and strong as I could ask. I haven't done the in fillets yet, debating whether to use my Aleen's Tacky Glue or wait until I can get some Titebond Molding and Trim Glue. I need to get some other stuff to finish it (primer, paint, elastic for shock cord) so I may just wait. Unless I get impatient - which, knowing me, is a very distinct possibility lol!

[luke strawwalker]

I think it was a QCR Flip Wing Glider that introduced me to the concept of tape hinges, but the darn tape hinges didn't hold worth beans (not a QCR issue, just a concept issue.) The floss stitches or sews the tape (I use duct tape for strength) tightly against the balsa. I often "double-stitch" the floss, but I'm not convinced it is really necessary . The tape itself (especially two layers, one each side) is the the strength of the hinge, the floss just keeps the tape from pulling away. The other thing the "two layers" of tape does is keeps the "stitch" from pulling through the balsa on the side opposite the tape (as would happen if you only used one layer.) The diagram above is an old one, kind of overkill. Really if you just put a stitch or two on each lateral edge (which is where most of the stress is) it will hold together. The hinge is stronger than the balsa. I've used this on balsa thicknesses from 1/16" to 1/4". (although you may want to pre-drill or at least use pliers to "pre-poke" your stitch holes AFTER the tape is on for thicker balsa, a leeeeeettle hard to get the needle through anything thicker than 1/8" by hand.) Best when passing the needle THROUGH the hinge to always pass the needle from the inside to the outside.

Interesting... I was gonna ask how you keep the balsa from splitting, punching holes so near the edge... of course if you "predrill" that sorta eliminates that problem!

Later! OL JR

[luke strawwalker]

I built my Big Bertha yesterday using nothing but Titebond II and can't be more pleased with the results. All joints are as solid and strong as I could ask. I haven't done the in fillets yet, debating whether to use my Aleen's Tacky Glue or wait until I can get some Titebond Molding and Trim Glue. I need to get some other stuff to finish it (primer, paint, elastic for shock cord) so I may just wait. Unless I get impatient - which, knowing me, is a very distinct possibility lol!

You CAN do fillets with the Titebond II... the trick is, to put on MULTIPLE VERY THIN passes to build the fillet up to the size you want... trying to do them all at once makes a gloppy, runny mess that invariably drips, sags, or runs. Doing it in multiple passes a layer at a time dries fast and doesn't result in pits or voids like doing it all at once would either. It works, it's just MORE work and time than doing it with TMTG (Titebond Moulding and Trim Glue). I haven't tried Aileene's Tacky Glue for fillets... I'll have to give that a shot sometime just for a test.

The TMTG is definitely worth the money... once you use that stuff and do it right, you won't want to use anything else...

Later and good luck! OL JR

Later! OL JR

[neond7]

IMHO, dump the Aerogloss and get some regular Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Filler... put a dab in a baby-food jar (or similar container) and using a few drops of water, thin to the consistency of hot dog mustard... use a 1 inch paintbrush to work the water into the filler. Brush on the fins and allow to dry for an hour or two. Sand with 220 grit followed by 400 grit. Presto your done. Aerogloss is fill, sand, fill, sand, fill, sand... ad nauseum... YUCK!! Best of all, no stink, no massive cleanup afterwards, and CWF will do it in one step.

I ended up getting the Elmers Carpenter's Wood Filler "Max" - I take it that is not the "original"?? Is that just as good, anyone use the "Max" version?

I just used it on the fins, its drying now so I'll find out soon! I ended up using Elmers white glue and Elmers Wood Glue Max for this build, skiped the tightbond. Boy is the wood glue grabby!!! Worked great for the fins, and parts of the motor mount. It "grabbed" the engine block a hair short of the full depth, just short of the metal motor retainer clip its supposed to butt up against. I hope this won't cause an issue, but the metal prong on the motor clip should keep the motor from going further into the tube. If it makes its way past that, it will hit the motor block, so it won't be able to go through the rocket. There is only a tiny gap between the clip and the motor block.....it sure grabbed quick.....

[luke strawwalker]

I ended up getting the Elmers Carpenter's Wood Filler "Max" - I take it that is not the "original"?? Is that just as good, anyone use the "Max" version?

I just used it on the fins, its drying now so I'll find out soon! I ended up using Elmers white glue and Elmers Wood Glue Max for this build, skiped the tightbond. Boy is the wood glue grabby!!! Worked great for the fins, and parts of the motor mount. It "grabbed" the engine block a hair short of the full depth, just short of the metal motor retainer clip its supposed to butt up against. I hope this won't cause an issue, but the metal prong on the motor clip should keep the motor from going further into the tube. If it makes its way past that, it will hit the motor block, so it won't be able to go through the rocket. There is only a tiny gap between the clip and the motor block.....it sure grabbed quick.....

Yep, it does... that's why white glue is FAR superior for this job... it doesn't grab anywhere NEAR as quick.

The problem comes in when you use wood glue for tight-fitting parts; when the glue is smeared in between the parts in a thin film, the moisture is absorbed out of it nearly instantly into the paper parts (inside of the tube and the rings) and "bam!" the molecules of the resin start locking together... viscosity increases enormously and the part sticks. It won't turn loose again.

White glue is much slower about setting, and while the "smeared thin" DOES seem to cause it to start getting a lot thicker in viscosity and "stiffer" in pushing parts together, it's nowhere NEAR as grabby as yellow glue.

later! OL JR

[Tarasdad]

As stated above I built my Big Bertha using Titebond II. For my Big Daddy I chose to use Gorilla Wood Glue. So far I'm liking it better than the Titebond.