Estes Pro Series II baffle

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BananaHands

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Hello everyone.

I just finished my Estes Leviathan and think I might set my sights on the Ventris next and want to try a baffle. Is it really as easy as cutting two round discs of wood, drilling a few holes and glueing them to the tube coupler? Does the wood have to be treated of of a specific type? Does it matter where in the rocket they are placed? For example, can I place one at the middle and another towards the top to create a shelf for the parachute?

Can I retrofit my Leviathan with a baffle or at least a shelf for the parachute?

Thanks!
Mike

Please feel free to correct my terminology....
 
Can I retrofit my Leviathan with a baffle or at least a shelf for the parachute? Does the wood have to be treated of of a specific type? Does it matter where in the rocket they are placed? For example, can I place one at the middle and another towards the top to create a shelf for the parachute


Yes. good idea. I woudl go with bass wood or thin plywood for extra strength. You can coat with JB weld to increase strength and heat protection. A shelf will ensure the parachute is forward and nto stuck in the tube. Just make sure you have enough foward space for the parachute, shoulder of the nose cone, and shock cords.
 
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It is important to remember what a baffle is: It allows the gas from the ejection charge to push out the parachute. The holes in the baffle allow the gas to pass thru, while blocking some of the hot particles that can be expelled as well. Making a "shelf" would prevent this, thus no ejection. Baffles are simple to make. Get a bulkhead, which is basically a solid centering ring, attach a screw eye bolt and washer, drill a few holes around the bulkhead, and viola!. (Go to LOC's website and you'll see a picture) You can attach your shock cord to the screw eye, and now you have a shelf also. There is also the half-moon design as well.
 
You can create a shelf with holes in it and the gas will pass throught and push the parachute out. I like the hoel method with a center eye bolt to attach the shock cord.
 
Thank you Kellty, I guess I didn't mean shelf as a solid bulkhead, just a platform to prevent the parachute from unraveling and falling all the way to the bottom of the rocket. Would one bulkhead placed that far forward help with the ejection gasses or would I still need wadding? Most of the baffles I have seen have two separated by a coupler although the one in my Maxi-Force is just a single hourglass-shaped piece.
 
I have never tried that but in makes sense that it would work.

You can add a metal sponge also. I do not do this - I will defer to someone else - should it be copper?
 
I have never tried that but in makes sense that it would work.

You can add a metal sponge also. I do not do this - I will defer to someone else - should it be copper?

I wouldn't think copper would hold up to the hot ejection gasses. I've always heard stainless steel mesh, like Aerotech uses in their kits.
 
Don't use the mesh. Even thought I have baffles, I still put some "dog barf" in there as added protection.
 
The dog barf is above the baffle and not in the baffle.

That would be interesting.
 
Thanks for the info everyone.

I think I will go with the half-moon motor tube baffle with a vented shelf for the Leviathon and a regular baffle for everything else from now on unless anyone here suggests otherwise. I think I'll skip the mesh though, I've heard that required maintence that might be unpractical.

Does it matter where the baffle is or how far apart the the parts are spaced?
Mike
 
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Thanks for the info everyone.

I think I will go with the half-moon motor tube baffle with a vented shelf for the Leviathon and a regular baffle for everything else from now on unless anyone here suggests otherwise. I think I'll skip the mesh though, I've heard that required maintence that might be unpractical.

Does it matter where the baffle is or how far apart the the parts are spaced?
Mike

My baffles are usually placed where the rocket separates, since I use them for zipperless designs. Depending on the size and length of the motor tube, I generally put the half moons 1/2"-1" apart. The forward end of the motor tube usually ends up 2"-3" from the underside of the baffle plate. I don't know of any hard and fast rules for this, but this has been working well for me. I haven't had a recovery failure yet due to the baffle.
 
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