Rusto 2x Primer - Covers nicely

[AfterBurners]

Last weekend I painted my Big Daddy. Posted a thread here how the paint "fogged" on me. Well I sanded it down and tried repainting it again. Didn't work. It "fogged" again (fin area). So I thought I would paint silver over it and tape off some areas so I would have silver with red lines...nadda didn't like the look so I did what almost everyone who is anal about their paint jobs. I wet sanded it down.

I had some Rusto gray 2x primer that was my brothers laying around in the garage that left. So I sprayed that on over my mess. It went on nice and thick and I liked it that way it covers. I don't know what it's it's like to sand it, but there are a couple areas that need some attention from the previous paint job. Figure I would sand those later tonight and hit it with another coat.

I also have some gloss white automotive paint from Rusto that I tried using last time without much a success. It came out like cottage cheese. My common sense tells me not to use it, but hate to see it sitting on the shelf going to waste so I might try it out on some scrap body tubes. I'm just trying to use up what I have laying around without going out shopping for more.

The nose turned out nice. It's a Royal Blue with a silver shoulder. I'll post pictures of this mess when I'm done.

[LW Bercini]

Rusto gray 2X is my current primer of choice. I used to be a die-hard Krylon dark gray primer fan, but I did a side-by-side comparison of the 2 and switched. In my personal experience, the one thing that the Rusto primer does that is more problematic than the Krylon is that it does tend to gum up the sandpaper a bit more quickly. As long as you keep that in mind, you will find you can get a satisfactory result.

[AfterBurners]

Yeah you're right does. I remember I used it in past and never went back to it after using their HBP. I mean the 2x works fine, but like I said I just wanted to paint this rocket with paints I had laying around and use them up first before buying any more. Who knows I might switch back to Rusto or use both Duplicolor and Rusto. We'll see.

I'm thinking about building another Big Daddy, but for (4) "E" motors. I have some extra 3" tubing laying. Actually a lot. (2) 34" tubes. Just need to get a couple nose cones

[LW Bercini]

eh? "HBP"? Not familiar with that acronym...

[chrisudy]

eh? "HBP"? Not familiar with that acronym...

High Build Primer :-)

[LW Bercini]

Hmmm...How does the Rusto HBP compare to something like Kilz spray primer? I toyed with Kilz in the past and found that even though it has high filling capability, I found it was difficult to sand down without affecting the softer wood used in my LPR projects. Also, the Kilz slid right off the glassine surface of the body tube on which I tested it. (I'm assuming the Kilz I used is a high build primer)

I am all for trying new products, but I have learned that not all products work the same on all surfaces. To what kind of materials are you applying the HBP? Balsa or Plywood? Glassy or matte finish tubes? If there is a primer product that works better on my LPR materials than the Rusto Painters Touch 2X spray primer, I'm all for switching! But I'd like to avoid wasting my time and money if the product is counter-indicated for the materials I use.

[fyrwrxz]

I like to use the Wally World 96 cent special as the first coat, then change colors (2X is good) and layer a couple coats-helps prevent 'fuzzing out' the BT base material and I can tell how much I've removed. I.m happy if 90% of it turns to dust-means I'm not paying to lift it.

[AfterBurners]

I would say my primer of choice would be Duplicolor and Rusto Automotive primers. Both HBP and sand like butter. The 2x does cover nicely I have to admit, but it probably doesn't have the sanding characteristics of the other two mentioned.

[AfterBurners]

I never tried using Kiliz so can't make that comparison. Try Duplicolor HBP they work great!

[LW Bercini]

I never tried using Kiliz so can't make that comparison. Try Duplicolor HBP they work great!

Again, to what kind of materials are you applying the Duplicolor HBP?

[AfterBurners]

Kraft paper and balsa and ply

[LW Bercini]

Thanks. I'll give it a try.

[o1d_dude]

QQuake2K talked me into trying the Rusto 2X white primer and I've since made the switch to it for most of my priming needs.

There are times when the Plasti-Kote or other automotive HBPs work better but I generally use the 2X white whenever I can.

[dixontj93060]

Although I use Rustolem and Duplicolor high-build auto primer like it is going out of style, I will then follow up with primer-sealer, and then am now using 2X white almost exclusively as my base coat before colors. Case in point is a rocket I was working on tonight...


Hybrid Flechette by DixonTJ, on Flickr

[MarkII]

Rusto Ultra Cover 2x are just about the only primers and paint that I am using these days. I get wonderful results from it. Their redesigned spray nozzle is the best one that I have ever used on a spray paint can. And another great thing is that Rustoleum has really jazzed up the color choices with this line.

[MarkII]

In my personal experience, the one thing that the Rusto primer does that is more problematic than the Krylon is that it does tend to gum up the sandpaper a bit more quickly. As long as you keep that in mind, you will find you can get a satisfactory result.

Give the primer enough time to dry thoroughly. I don't care if the label says that it can be sanded after 30 minutes; I give it a full 24 hours (not just overnight) before I touch it. Because of the way I build and the vagaries of local weather, it is often more like 48 hours before I actually get to any pieces that I have primed. I have had fewer problems sanding this stuff than just about anything else that I have used. In fact, it sands really nicely.

[AfterBurners]

I have a couple cans each of the gray and white 2x Rusto Painters Touch primer. It goes on nice and does cover nicely. I think I will get a can of the gloss red or gloss white and see how it works as topcoat. I haven't checked out the color choices. Their automotive finishes are nice too

[3boydad]

the primers are AWESOME especially for sanding. i just bought 10 more cans. as Kmart has them on sale for 2.99 a can. as stated above they have so many colors. and remember one thing. the most important thing i have learned is DO NOT RUSH THE GLOSS. primer can run and be thick. it sand easy. gloss is a different beast. spray back far and light. multiple coats. my rockets that are perfect that is what i have done. and from now on that is what i will do. oh and give it a few days to cure before taping and adding other color. i have went through the orange peel pains too. sanding sucks. sanding sucks more when u are sanding gloss to correct your mistakes. never again!!!!!

[cjp]

My last build was painted with Rusto.2x primer and 2x apple red.I like the way it turned out.See Red Vagabond thread in midpowered.

[Ring Leader]

Give the primer enough time to dry thoroughly. I don't care if the label says that it can be sanded after 30 minutes; I give it a full 24 hours (not just overnight) before I touch it. Because of the way I build and the vagaries of local weather, it is often more like 48 hours before I actually get to any pieces that I have primed. I have had fewer problems sanding this stuff than just about anything else that I have used. In fact, it sands really nicely.

This is key! If you sand the Rusto 2x within the first 24 hours it will likely gum up your paper. Give it time and it sands like a dream.

[LW Bercini]

Give the primer enough time to dry thoroughly. I don't care if the label says that it can be sanded after 30 minutes; I give it a full 24 hours (not just overnight) before I touch it. Because of the way I build and the vagaries of local weather, it is often more like 48 hours before I actually get to any pieces that I have primed. I have had fewer problems sanding this stuff than just about anything else that I have used. In fact, it sands really nicely.

Well that explains it. I had been giving it about 12 hours.

[AfterBurners]

I agree with Mark. I always let my primer coat dry at least 24-48 hrs even the HBP. I just don't rush it because it always turns out bad in the end. I figured I'm not going to be in hurry to launch so why bother.

[rstaff3]

OK, here's one negative experience that I had recently with this primer (copied from a blog post).

I have had some problems with this primer but this tops them all. When finishing my Air Serpent, I used epoxy fillets and filled the fins with Fill'n'Finish. After sanding and wiping down, I shot on a coat of the aforementioned primer and left it for a couple of days. So far, so good. I filled a few defects with more Fill'n'Finsh and left the project for 2 or three days. Today, I shot on touch-up coat of primer and the stupid stuff crazed! It didn't craze on the Fill'n'Finish or epoxy before so am I to assume that it isn't compatible with itself? If I were a finish purist, I think my head would have exploded.

I'd appreciate your thoughts on what might have happened. As you see I left plenty of time between steps. It wasn't particularly humid at the time. After the crazing, I sanded and recoated with no issues and the primer was compatible with several paints brands (and Sharpie in). I claimed at the time that this was junk and would never use it again, but after reading this thread it appears it was just me. Since I found a couple of unopened cans in the basement, I guess I'll get more experience with it.

[AfterBurners]

Honestly Dick every time I paint I'm so apprehensive about anything I use. I have used Rusto with much success and also Duplicolor and I'm talking both primer and paints. Sometimes I get a little bit of craze on the fillets and not sure why? This is with the top coat. I had this happen using Duplicolor enamels.

Another time I was using the Rusto HPB automotive formula, which BTW is excellent. No problem with the primer, but when I sprayed the "Gloss White" it crazed and came out like cottage cheese. I thought it was a bad can of paint so I returned the paint and got another can. Same thing happened. I returned it again and once again the same thing happened. I still have that can of paint and not sure why I haven't tossed it? Maybe I hate wasting things, but I'll probably just buy a can of Rust 2x Gloss White and finish the rocket I'm working on.

Because of all the issues I seem to have I try to stay with "like" primers and paints just to avoid any issues. So you are definitely not the only one. BTW- The "Gloss RED" Rusto automotive formula works great and not sure why? This whole thing with painting makes me want to just buy a spray gun and compressor and say good bye to the rattle cans.

[Evo666]

I use Rustolium Gray and white auto primer and love it.

[MarkII]

How heavy (if at all) were your coats, Dick?

My working theory is that paint coats craze (wrinkle) when the paint on the top or most recently applied coat dries quicker than the paint coat or coats underneath it. Paint, other than lacquer, takes a long time to dry. The faster drying spray paints can be "dry enough" to handle and even mask after a couple of days, while not being completely dried, stabilized and firmly adhered. Paint that is applied in many coats will, of course, take longer to reach this state. Mind you, I am not saying that, for all intents and purposes, the paint isn't 99.9% "dry" as far as we are concerned after typical intervals; I am saying (hypothesizing) that it doesn't reach its final, stable state until some time later on. And that on rare occasions, that fact can bite you on the behind. It doesn't matter very much for us most of the time, but once in a great while it does. My hunch/hypothesis is that this factor is behind many cases of otherwise "unexplainable" incidents of paint crazing. Everything seemed right, and the painter didn't do anything that was different from what had worked before, but for some reason, the coats of paint took longer than usual to reach stability and to achieve firm adherence to the surface. Loose, poorly adhered paint (caused by whatever reason) wrinkles when it is covered over with new paint. It's nearly impossible for someone in our position (a painter) to detect whether or not this is the case with any particular paint job. So in the end, all we can do is to chalk up such incidents to plain old bad luck. At least we can be grateful that this particular intersection of bad juju only happens relatively rarely. Small comfort if it happens to you, though. Go figure.

Let me repeat: this is only a hypothesis.

[rstaff3]

How heavy (if at all) were your coats, Dick?

My working theory is that paint coats craze (wrinkle) when the paint on the top or most recently applied coat dries quicker than the paint coat or coats underneath it. Paint, other than lacquer, takes a long time to dry. The faster drying spray paints can be "dry enough" to handle and even mask after a couple of days, while not being completely dried, stabilized and firmly adhered. Paint that is applied in many coats will, of course, take longer to reach this state. Mind you, I am not saying that, for all intents and purposes, the paint isn't 99.9% "dry" as far as we are concerned after typical intervals; I am saying (hypothesizing) that it doesn't reach its final, stable state until some time later on. And that on rare occasions, that fact can bite you on the behind. It doesn't matter very much for us most of the time, but once in a great while it does. My hunch/hypothesis is that this factor is behind many cases of otherwise "unexplainable" incidents of paint crazing. Everything seemed right, and the painter didn't do anything that was different from what had worked before, but for some reason, the coats of paint took longer than usual to reach stability and to achieve firm adherence to the surface. Loose, poorly adhered paint (caused by whatever reason) wrinkles when it is covered over with new paint. It's nearly impossible for someone in our position (a painter) to detect whether or not this is the case with any particular paint job. So in the end, all we can do is to chalk up such incidents to plain old bad luck. At least we can be grateful that this particular intersection of bad juju only happens relatively rarely. Small comfort if it happens to you, though. Go figure.

Let me repeat: this is only a hypothesis.

Mark, your theory sounds plausible to me. I do tend to blow on a thick coat of primer, especially if I know it will sit for a few days before I get back to it. That alone may be the issue. It seemed to be worst over areas that I touched up with Fill'n'Finish. Maybe that slowed down the ultimate curing (the last 0.1%) of the surrounding/underlying primer as you described.

I've had my share of paint crazing but it is the first time I've had a second coat of primer do it. As you also mentioned, I used the same methods that I always use.

Thanks for the reply!