Estes - Leviathan (#9700) Gallery

The Rocketry Forum

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Just curious - how is actual chrome applied? I assume it's some kind of spray, right?

In this video by MaxThrustRC, he has his Quantum Leap chromed - at a paint shop. Is the reason people don't do that themselves because it's prohibitively expensive, or too difficult?

[video=youtube_share;6SFxSDa2odo]https://youtu.be/6SFxSDa2odo[/video]

Edit: That sounded dumb - I realize I asked how it's done and then answered my own question with that video. But I'm still curious as to why it's so hard for people to get a good chrome job when they paint themselves.

The Leviathan looks great, by the way!
 
You're right. I've never had a Chrome paint that worked very well. This stuff was the first I ever used that was actual very good. It was Rustoleum Bright Coat Metallic Finish
b67040d8-bb50-4d08-bbf2-d9bf4ce88985_400.jpg

I bought a can to try, never expecting it to work very well. I was surprised.

I've used this one before. I thought it had a great metallic look and shine when first applied, but the paint was very fragile and prone to picking up finger prints that could not be wiped away. I have one rocket painted with this paint that I don't fly much anymore. That one has sat in a hot garage unused for a long time, and it seems like the paint has hardened up some. So maybe it takes a very long time to really cure.
 
I've used this one before. I thought it had a great metallic look and shine when first applied, but the paint was very fragile and prone to picking up finger prints that could not be wiped away. I have one rocket painted with this paint that I don't fly much anymore. That one has sat in a hot garage unused for a long time, and it seems like the paint has hardened up some. So maybe it takes a very long time to really cure.

I agree with your appraisal of the paint. It matches my experience. I'm going to try the Rustoleum Clear Enamel over and see it that works. I'll also try Future and see how that works. Some sort of clear coat should make it last.
 
Just curious - how is actual chrome applied? I assume it's some kind of spray, right?

In this video by MaxThrustRC, he has his Quantum Leap chromed - at a paint shop. Is the reason people don't do that themselves because it's prohibitively expensive, or too difficult?

[video=youtube_share;6SFxSDa2odo]https://youtu.be/6SFxSDa2odo[/video]

Edit: That sounded dumb - I realize I asked how it's done and then answered my own question with that video. But I'm still curious as to why it's so hard for people to get a good chrome job when they paint themselves.

The Leviathan looks great, by the way!

True Chrome can only be applied over metal. It is an electrolysis method that puts the chrome onto the metal. First a layer of copper is put onto the metal with the right chemical and electrolysis. Then the chrome is applied with the same method. There are two types of chrome, hard chrome and soft chrome. The hard chrome is use to coat paper machine roller, bearing surfaces and other metal surfaces that require a hardness that is more then can be obtained with a surface hardening method using heat treating. Soft chrome is what is used on metal bumpers, motor cycle parts, etc. It is the shiny chrome.

Obviously there are now methods of applying a metalized coating on non-metal parts that resembles the soft chrome used on metal parts. I have a plastic chrome grill on my Durango that is done that way and the "Chrome" is all wrinkled and flaking off. It's not a true chrome coating.
 
I agree with your appraisal of the paint. It matches my experience. I'm going to try the Rustoleum Clear Enamel over and see it that works. I'll also try Future and see how that works. Some sort of clear coat should make it last.

Mostly what I have heard is that clear coats turn these kinds of surfaces grey.
 
If you have a big enough oven, you could always try baking the rocket after you sprayed it.
 
Mostly what I have heard is that clear coats turn these kinds of surfaces grey.

My experience as well with Chrome paints. Tried many different varieties (6-8?) over the past 1-2 years as well as different clear coats and nothing seems to work without dulling the finish.

Recently tried 4 different clear coats including one specifically made for SpazStix chrome (one of my past favorite chrome paints), Future/Pledge and even Metal Foil Clear coat (I had hopes for this spray varnish since it was made for metal foil) and nothing worked well. I'm about to resort to shrinkwarp. :facepalm:

Sorry about the giant pics...here are two recent tests...first with VHT Plate Finish Chrome and the second SpazStix Ultimate Mirror Chrome (originally made for RC polycarb bodies to be painted on the underside):
wM8pNI20AcpbOKNIoDx_bz_s-8XBH4LIFs50eg5bUJ4


Mwp5kQ9eGHt5bAJkC1mcaHPDrTc7kzkOuedONKKdon4


Clear coats:
1) SpazStix Ultimate Clear Coat for Mirror Chrome
2) Rustoleum Acrylic Lacquer Gloss Clear
3) Spray-It Metal Leaf Spray Sealer (purchased at Hobby Lobby)
4) Pledge Floor Care (supposedly replaced Future)

Quest for good "durable" chrome finish goes on...
 
Too bad I can't upload a pic via the iOS app...
 
Last edited:
Completed my Leviathan back in January. I named it Brutus Buckeye. BB-7.jpg The nose cone took a long time to paint. BB-5.jpgIMG_4258.jpg All the "decals" are printed card stock. I used Modge Podge to apply.IMG_4259.jpgIMG_4260.jpgIMG_4261.jpgIMG_4429.jpg The Brutus and 00 I cut from vinyl using a Cricut machine.BB-6.jpg
 
Continuing with my Eastern European theme here's mine:

Ljubljanathan.jpg

I'm calling it a "Ljubljanathan."
 
My Daughter's.

Lucina's Leviathan.jpgLucina's Leviathan 2.jpg

She and my wife have been making yard art, and using all sorts of spray paint from Menards.
 
Here is my Leviathan, I borrowed the basic scheme from EXPjawa.

This photo is just after my wet sand and vinyl from Stickershock23 was applied:
Lev2.jpg

Afterwards through some suggestions here on the forum, I did not put clear coat on it but used Nu Finish instead
Lev1.jpg Lev3.jpg Lev4.jpg

The jury is still out for me on the Nu Finish. I may end up doing a light wet sand and shoot some clear automotive enamel. We shall see.
Will post launch pictures after NEFAR's September launch. I did not have it ready for this month's launch and did not want to rush the final setup. So decided to wait and that way I could go over everything.
 
Here's mine (not eh yellow graduator!) Pinky-magenta with black flames.

it's flown a lot! and most recently on an H165R
 

Attachments

  • NYP2017_0801.JPG
    NYP2017_0801.JPG
    272.2 KB · Views: 109
  • NYP2017_0722.JPG
    NYP2017_0722.JPG
    451.2 KB · Views: 107
I know this is an old thread but could someone post a picture of the bulkhead nose cone modification they did to their Leviathan? I'm building one now and would love to learn how that's done.

Thanks!
 
Here is a (grossly oversized) picture of my Pro Series II nose bays.

The ring is sized to fit behind the shoulder (there's a ridge it fits behind) and fixed with epoxy (make sure to scuff the interior of the plastic significantly)
Metal threaded inserts (t-nuts or well nuts) go in the ring, and the bulkhead with eyebolt gets bolted down.

img_20170107_204755266-jpg.308839
 
Here is a (grossly oversized) picture of my Pro Series II nose bays.

The ring is sized to fit behind the shoulder (there's a ridge it fits behind) and fixed with epoxy (make sure to scuff the interior of the plastic significantly)
Metal threaded inserts (t-nuts or well nuts) go in the ring, and the bulkhead with eyebolt gets bolted down.

img_20170107_204755266-jpg.308839
Thank you! This will be most helpful. This my first mid powered build and don't want a failure if I can help it. I REALLY wished I had not followed the Estes instructions as I now can't make a good interior fin fillet. Live and learn...
 
You got it! That's what the forum is here for

Carefully following the estes instructions is fine for flying on midpower motors, and probably even for weak small Hs. The modifications and adjustments common mainly because folks around here like to use bigger motors than the kit was designed for :)

Did you install the motor block or leave it out?
 
I made the noob mistake of following the instructions andbuilding the motor mount with the rear bulkhead epoxied in place. The completed motor mount is not installed...yet. I suppose I could build and install another motor mount leaving out the rear bulkhead, properly secure the fins to the inner tube, and then install the rear bulkhead. Probably a good idea, huh?
 
Depends on what you want to fly it on.

Triple dipping the tab roots with Tightbond II wood glue and making good fillets on the outside will still be very strong.

My question was about the green motor block ring "inside" the motor mount. Did you put that in or leave it out?
 
I made the noob mistake of following the instructions andbuilding the motor mount with the rear bulkhead epoxied in place. The completed motor mount is not installed...yet. I suppose I could build and install another motor mount leaving out the rear bulkhead, properly secure the fins to the inner tube, and then install the rear bulkhead. Probably a good idea, huh?
Sorry, I missed that part. Yes... I did install the green ring. That limits my motor choices, I guess.
 
Yep, Single Use 29s, adapted 24's, AT 29/40-120 case, Pro29 1 and 2grain cases, and whatever AT RMS cases will fit in there.

It's still a great flier on those motors, and this just means you get to build another rocket to fly the rest!
 
That will suit me for now as I'm a noob MPR flyer.

Just means that next time I will have to build something more versatile.

Thanks for your advice. Its appreciated.
 
Flight of the Estes Leviathan. Aerotech DMS I205 motor, 10 second delay. Approximately a half mile high. Jolly Logic Chute Release at 400 feet. 4K sports camera in my 3D printed spacecraft.
#Estes #ModelRocket #HPR #SportsCamera #SARA

 
Back
Top