Rail Buttons on Minimum diameter rockets.

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Aksrockets

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I am working on my Mach-mobile and it is time to install rail buttons. It is minimum diameter so I can't put them through a centering ring or through a nut like I usually do. I have lots of normal one peice ones that I need to use up so I would prefer not to use the ACME conformal ones.
Is it okay to just epoxy them on?

Alex
 
Don't put them on.

I assume you are doing minimum diameter for performance reasons; rail button or guides will kill your altitude/velocity. Launch from a tower.
 
Don't put them on.

I assume you are doing minimum diameter for performance reasons; rail button or guides will kill your altitude/velocity. Launch from a tower.

Trust me, It's NOT a performance bird. If I was going for MAX Performance I would have airfoiled the fins and used a CF airframe. Actually, I might be flying it motor deploy so losing 500ft in altitude might not be a bad thing...

Alex
 
The conformal ones will have much better adhesion than plastic rail buttons would. Plus, they have less drag.
 
Simply gluing them on might work, but I've never done that. What I have done is:

Option 1) Drill a hole in the airframe for each rail button in the airframe very slightly undersized. Screw in the rail button+screw and see how much too long it is. Using an angle grinder or Dremel, grind off the excess until it doesn't extend through the tube. Clean-up any burrs. Smear epoxy on the screw and bottom on the button where it will contact the ariframe on the outside and screw it back into the hole. Don't torque it, you'll just make the hole too big. I have used this approach and also just used one or two little washers so I don't have to grind off the screw. Those get bonded to the button, each other, and the airframe (when I do this, I use JBWeld with success).

Option 2) Using a popsicle stick or other small piece of wood, fashion a little standoff. Drill it for the button. Glue up the button, screw and standoff with epoxy. If the screw extends through your piece of wood, clean-up extra epoxy on the back of the wood and allow to dry. Drill a hole in the airframe to accept the little extra screw nub, if you have one. Now epoxy the standoff to the airframe. It will have more surface area to help bond better to the airframe.

I have done both of these, and they work. When doing either, rough up the bonding surface of the rail button with 60-grit sandpaper.

--Lance.
 
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Option 2-great tip- thanks! It's brilliant!
BTW- on ACME conformals, I drill #40 epoxy 'rivet holes' thru the legs and rough up the undersides to provide more bite.
 
Darn you guys are too fast! I will have a new option for mounting the Airfoil Rail Guides to minimum diameter airframes later this summer. I could have them at LDRS if all goes as planned. Well some of you are aware my plans keep getting "foiled" lately...... but once I get caught up on stuff I will get this out, seems like there have been a few requests on this topic.........
 
Darn you guys are too fast! I will have a new option for mounting the Airfoil Rail Guides to minimum diameter airframes later this summer. I could have them at LDRS if all goes as planned. Well some of you are aware my plans keep getting "foiled" lately...... but once I get caught up on stuff I will get this out, seems like there have been a few requests on this topic.........

SCP, did you end up offering these?
 
Simply gluing them on might work, but I've never done that. What I have done is:

Option 1) Drill a hole in the airframe for each rail button in the airframe very slightly undersized. Screw in the rail button+screw and see how much too long it is. Using an angle grinder or Dremel, grind off the excess until it doesn't extend through the tube. Clean-up any burrs. Smear epoxy on the screw and bottom on the button where it will contact the ariframe on the outside and screw it back into the hole. Don't torque it, you'll just make the hole too big. I have used this approach and also just used one or two little washers so I don't have to grind off the screw. Those get bonded to the button, each other, and the airframe (when I do this, I use JBWeld with success).

Option 2) Using a popsicle stick or other small piece of wood, fashion a little standoff. Drill it for the button. Glue up the button, screw and standoff with epoxy. If the screw extends through your piece of wood, clean-up extra epoxy on the back of the wood and allow to dry. Drill a hole in the airframe to accept the little extra screw nub, if you have one. Now epoxy the standoff to the airframe. It will have more surface area to help bond better to the airframe.

I have done both of these, and they work. When doing either, rough up the bonding surface of the rail button with 60-grit sandpaper.

--Lance.

This sounds exactly like I did with my Blackhawk 24 and so far so good!
-Ken
 
BTW- on ACME conformals, I drill #40 epoxy 'rivet holes' thru the legs and rough up the undersides to provide more bite.

That's exactly how I do it and, they never come off....using the Pro Line "Tar" epoxy.
J.B. Weld works well also, in a pinch.
 
On both my md birds I flew in argonia , 29 and 75 , I simply drilled and taped into the rear clouser on the knured portion . On the front side I installed one right in front of the motor so I could install a nut .

Eric

Edit . Both motors are aerotech , snap ring motor you could not do this method.
 
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